&J 


1 


f 


INCIDENTS 


OF  A. 


WHALING  VOYAGE. 

TO  WHICH  ARE  ADDED  OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE 

SCENERY,  MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS,  AND  MIS- 
SIONARY  STATIONS, 

OF  THE 

Sattfctofcfi  anto  Socfctg  Xslantos, 

ACCOMPANIED    BY    NUMEROUS    LITHOGRAPHIC    PRINTS. 

BY  FRANCIS  ALLYN  OLMSTED. 


NEW-YORK: 

PUBLISHED  BY  D.  APPLETON  AND  CO. 

1841. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  iti  the  year  18-1],  by 

FRANCIS  ALLYN  OLMSTED, 

In  the  Clerk's  Oiliee  of  the  District  Court  of  Connecticut. 


PREFACE. 


During  the  latter  part  of  my  collegiate  course,  my 
health  became  very  much  impaired  by  a  chronic 
debility  of  the  nervous  system,  and  soon  after  grad- 
uating, the  cold  air  of  Autumn  admonished  me  to 
seek  a  milder  clime  for  spending  the  winter.  While 
deliberating  upon  what  would  be  most  desirable  in 
accomplishing  the  purposes  I  had  in  view,  a  favora- 
ble opportunity  was  offered  me  to  go  out  as  pas- 
senger in  the  whale-ship  "North  America,"  which 
was  fitting  out  at  New-London  for  a  voyage  to 
the  Pacific.  From  an  erroneous  prejudice  against 
whalers,  it  was  with  great  reluctance  that  I  deter- 
mined upon  embarking  on  this  voyage,  and  many 
of  my  friends  made  sage  predictions  of  the  wretch- 
ed life  to  which  I  was  consigning  myself.  A  strong 
inclination  for  the  sea,   however,  which  had  made 


IV  PREFACE. 

ships  and  the  ocean  my  admiration  from  boyhood, 
and  a  love  of  the  adventurous,  inclined  me  to  a 
voyage  in  preference  to  any  other  plan  for  the  re- 
covery of  my  health  ;  and  its  successful  results  have 
left  me  no  reason  to  repent  of  my  choice. 

With  the  exception  of  the  interesting  work  by 
Beale,  entitled  "  The  Sperm  Whale  Fishery,"  I  am 
not  aware  that  any  representations  of  whaling  life 
have  been  exhibited  proportionate  to  its  adventurous 
character  and  importance.  Entertaining  sketches  of 
the  capture  of  the  whale,  have  been  written  at  dif- 
ferent times ;  but  they  are  generally  the  productions 
of  those  who  were  not  spectators  of  the  scenes  they 
attempt  to  delineate,  and  must,  of  course,  be  want- 
ing in  accuracy.  I  have  endeavored  to  represent 
sea-life  as  it  is;  and  should  the  reader,  impatient  to 
enter  in  medias  res,  think  me  tedious  in  getting  under 
way,  I  have  only  to  plead  that  the  facts  were  so;  and 
similar  delays  and  vexations  are  believed  to  consti- 
tute a  very  ordinary  part  of  sea-life.  It  has  also 
been  my  constant  endeavor  throughout  the  narrative, 
to  make  a  candid  representation  of  occurrences,  al- 
though I  do  not  aspire  to  infallibility. 

Some  parts  of  my  narrative  may  appear  to  be 
wanting  in  exciting  incident.  My  object  has  indeed 
been,  to  represent  life  in  a  somewhat  novel  aspect, 
but  not  by  a  sacrifice  of  truth  or  by  an  exaggerated 
picture.     The  common  incidents  of  life,  in  their  or- 


PREFACE.  V 

dinary  course,  rarely  exhibit  much  of  the  marvellous, 
and  it  is  from  the  reality  of  their  occurrence,  in  a 
great  measure,  that  they  excite  permanent  pleasure. 
A  Marryatt,  by  weaving  together  the  events  of  sev- 
eral voyages,  and  coloring  the  tissue  with  all  the 
vividness  of  a  lively  imagination,  gives  to  his  sea 
sketches  a  brilliancy  which  a  strict  adherence  to  the 
common  course  of  events  would  have  denied  him. 

The  pictorial  illustrations  are  selections  from  fifty 
or  sixty  sketches  representing  objects  of  natural  his- 
tory, and  scenes  that  interested  me,  taken  originally 
in  the  sketch  book  I  always  carried  with  me,  and 
finished  off  afterwards,  as  soon  as  possible.  The 
great  expense  of  these  illustrations,  forbids  the  intro- 
duction of  a  larger  number  into  the  work ;  for  the 
size  of  a  work  gives  it  a  determinate  price,  from 
which  even  the  most  expensive  illustrations  will  not 
admit  of  very  great  deviation,  although  embellish- 
ments of  this  kind  are  often  as  essential  in  forming 
a  correct  idea  of  a  scene,  as  the  printed  page  itself. 
Frequently  indeed,  they  are  of  greater  importance ; 
for  a  single  glance  at  a  correct  picture  gives  a  far 
more  vivid  idea  of  a  scene,  than  the  most  elaborate 
description. 

Some  of  the  statistics  of  the  Whale  Fishery,  were 
gathered  after  my  return,  and  have  reference  to  a 
date  subsequent  to  that  of  the  journal  where  they 
are  introduced.     This  arrangement,  although  censu- 


VI  PREFACE. 

rable  as  an  anachronism,  is  not  deemed  inconsistent 
with  the  nature  of  the  work,  and  is  thought  prefera- 
ble to  multiplied  notes. 

In  conclusion,  I  have  endeavored  to  represent  the 
sailor  in  a  favorable  light,  and  to  excite  the  kindness 
and  sympathy  of  the  benevolent  in  his  behalf.  If 
my  efforts  have  been  successful,  and  shall  contribute 
to  secure  to  the  whaling  business,  that  share  of  re- 
spectability which  has  been  withheld  from  it  through 
ignorance  and  prejudice,  I  shall  esteem  myself  happy. 
New-Haven,  August,  1841. 


One  so  young,  and  so  little  known  to  the  public  as  the  author, 
may,  it  is  hoped,  be  permitted  to  annex  the  following  certificate 
from  Messrs.  Havens  &  Smith,  Hon.  Thomas  W.  Williams,  M.  C, 
and  Francis  Allyn,  Esq.,  Mayor  of  the  city  of  New-London,  to 
whom  he  had  submitted  his  manuscript.  Captain  Smith  is  an 
experienced  whaler,  and  has  often  visited  the  regions  described 
in  this  work. 

New-London,  Mat  5th,  1841. 
Mr.  F.  A.  Olmsted  having  submitted  to  our  examination  parts 
of  his  manuscript  journal  of  a  voyage  in  our  ship  "  North  Ameri- 
ca," in  1839  and  '40,  we  take  pleasure  in  testifying  to  the  correct- 
ness of  his  descriptions  of  the  Sperm  Whale  Fishery  and  the  ac- 
companying plates,  and  we  think  he  has  the  materials  for  an 
interesting  work. 

HAVENS  &  SMITH. 

We  concur  in  the  above  opinion. 

TH.  W.  WILLIAMS. 
FRANCIS  ALLYN. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I. 

Voyage  to  the  Azores. — Embarkation — Man  overboard — Super- 
stition of  Seamen  in  respect  to  sailing  on  Friday — Discourage- 
ment at  the  commencement  of  the  voyage — Description  of  a 
whale-boat  and  its  appurtenances — Larboard  and  starboard 
watches — First  aspect  of  the  ocean — Gulf  stream — A  gale — Suf- 
ferings of  an  invalid  on  shipboard — Rainbows.   -        -     Page  11 

CHAPTER  II. 
Fayal. — Arrival  at  Fayal — Appearance  of  the  island — Situation  of 
the  town — Fortifications — Burdens  carried  by  porters  -  Streets  and 
buildings  —Costumes  of  the  different  classes — Ladies  of  Fayal — 
Consul's  gardens  -Manufacture  and  exportation  of  wine  —Casual- 
ties incident  to  the  life  of  a  whaler — Dinner  at  the  Consul's — 
Supplies  laid  in  at  Fayal —Departure —Lunar  bow.  -        27 

CHAPTER  III. 
Ship  and  Shipmates. — Ship  North  America — Government  aboard 
ship— Method  of  ascertaining  the  Latitude  and  Longitude — Ec- 
centricities of  the  cook  — Amusementsof  the  fore-castle  -  Etiquette 
on  board  ship — Employments  of  the  crew — Description  of  the 
several  parts  of  the  ship,  and  peculiarities  in  the  construction  of  a 
whaler— Order  and  contentment  of  the  crew — Library — Flying 
fish. 41 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Whaling  Scenes. — Attack  and  capture  of  whales — General  appear- 
ance of  the  sperm  whale— Great  size  of  the  respiratory  organs 
and  vascular  system  —Sympathy  of  cetaceous  animals  for  each 
other — Inaccurate  representations  of  the  whale — Nature  of  blub- 
ber— "  Cutting  in  " — Perils  attending  the  process — Spermaceti — 
"Trying  out." 56 

CHAPTER  V. 
Crossing  the  Line.  —  Disagreeable  and  cruel  tricks  formerly  prac- 
tised on  the  "Green  Horn"-  Ceremonies  of  initiation  into  the 
mysteries  of  Neptune — Novel  and  interesting  aspect  of  the  starry 
heavens  in  another  hemisphere  -Delightful  weather — Phospho- 
rescence of  the  sea.  .......        69 


Vlll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Cruise  in  the  South  Atlantic— Fall  in  with  the  "  Messenger"  of 
New-Bedford— Sickness  on  board  this  ship — Medical  practice  of 
sea-captains— Fall  in  with  the  "William  and  Eliza"— Social 
habits  of  whalers— Whaling  Scenes — Versatility  of  talent  requi- 
site for  an  accomplished  seaman— Dress  and  manners  of  the  crew 
— Mr.  Freeman's  soirees— Annoyances  on  ship-board — Christmas 
— Mechanical  employments  of  the  men.      -        -        -        -74 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Approach  to  Cape  Horn.—  Gale  of  wind  —  Game  of  these  seas — The 
porpoise— Turtle— Pilot  fish— Squally  weather— Preparations  for 
doubling  Cape  Horn — Novel  aspect  of  the  diurnal  revolutions,  and 
of  the  celestial  bodies  in  these  high  latitudes — Capture  of  Al- 
batrosses—Preparations for  the  Cape.  90 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Cape  Horn. — Terra  del  Fuego — Pa tagonians— Straits  of  Magellan 
— Geographical  position  of  Cape  Horn — Dangers  and  difficulties 
of  doubling  the  Cape — Capricious  state  of  the  elements — Huge 
Sperm  Whale— The  carrier  albatross— Perils  of  Whaling— Sail- 
or's songs. 106 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Hunting  and  fishing  scenes. — Ambrose  Island— Immense  flocks  of 
birds — Great  fishing— Capture  of  a  fur  seal— Sea  birds — Capture 
of  a  black  fish — Boat  carried  down  by  a  whale.       -     -     -     117 

CHAPTER  X. 
The  whale  fishery. — Early  history  of  the  whale  fishery — Original 
method  of  attacking  whales — Modem  improvements  in  whaling 
— Implements— Enterprise  of  our  ancestors  in  this  line— Intrepid- 
ity of  whalers — Discoveries  in  distant  regions — Benefits  conferred 
by  them  on  the  Polynesian  colonies  and  missionary  establish- 
ments— Character  of  whalers,  officers  and  crew.       -    -     -     121 

CHAPTER  XI. 
Varieties  of  the  whale. — The  Sperm  Whale— Spermaceti — Am- 
bergris—Right Whale — Size— Food  — Fin-back  Whale— Difficul- 
ty of  capture— Hump-back  Whale — Conflicts  of  Whales  with 
one  another— Loss  of  the  Whaler  "Essex."        -  134 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Amusements  and  mode  of  life  on  shd?board. — Fishing — Mechani- 
cal employments — Bill  of  fare. 146 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
Cruise  in  the  Pacific — Perilous  incidents  of  a  whaler's  life — Black- 
fish,  capture,  description,  and  habits — Squid  or  cuttle  fish — Large 
schools  of  sperm  whales — Terrific  approach  to  the  ship— Laws 
of  whaling  among  the  craft — Turtles — Brilliant  phosphorescence. 


CONTENTS.  IX 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Visit  to  Tacames. — Situation  of  Tacames— Interesting  appearance 

of  the  vegetable  kingdom — Tropical  fruits — Landing  in  the  surf— 

Density  of  the  forests— An  incident—  Phosphorescence  of  fish  after 

death— Carousals  on  shore. »161 

CHAPTER  XV. 
Voyage  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. — The  Gallapagos  Islands — 
Narrow  escape  from  shipwreck— Steer  for  the  Society  Islands — 
Capture  of  a  large  whale— Mother  Carey's  chickens — Peaked- 
nose  shark — Leaky  condition  of  the  ship— Steer  for  the  Sand- 
wich Islands— Trade  winds— Arrival  at  Oahu.        -        -        175 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Sandwich  Islands. — Seamen's  chapel — Honolulu  harbor — Fruits 
and  vegetables — Appearance  of  the  natives — Native  dwellings — 
Police  regulations — Fort — Governor  Kekuanoa— Capt.  Brown — 
Foreign  residents — Horses  and  vehicles.  *  189 

CHAPTER  XVII. 
Sandwich  Islands. — Valley  of  Nuanu— Taro  Poi — Natives  at  work 
— Aquatic  feats — An  affecting  incident— Native  canoes — Com- 
merce of  the  Hawaiian  Islands — Moving  a  house — Treatment  of 
a  lunatic— Native  salutation — Chinese — Annoyances — Scorpions 
—Centipedes. 202 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Excursion  to  Hawaii. — Brig  "  Clementine" — Romish  priests — 
Accommodations  on  board — Kailua — Governor  Adams — Style 
of  his  house — Cavern — Natives  playing  in  the  surf— Native 
church  —  Manufactory —  lodgings  —  Escape  from  shipwreck  — 
Shark  catchers— To waihae — Walk  to  Waimea — Spanish  bullock 
hunters — Mr.  Lyons,  missionary— Bullock  hunting — Fate  of  Mr. 
Douglas—Spanish  saddle— Return  to  Honolulu.     -        -        216 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
Sandwich  Islands. — Farewell  to  the  North  America — Whaleship 
Catharine — Objects  of   a   consulate — Kauikeaouli,   the   king — 
Mission  families  at  Honolulu.        -----        237 

CHAPTER  XX. 
Sandwich  Islands. — Geography — Fertility — Climate— Ancient  Ta- 
bu system  — Idolatry— Oppression  of  the  chiefs— Arrival  of  mis- 
sionaries—Discouragements— Success  — Churches  at  Honolulu — 
Schools— Hawaiian  Institute  — Supremacy  of  law — Depopula- 
tion.     -        -        - 245 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Voyage    to   Tahiti. — Embarkation — Passengers— An    incident — 
Calm  latitudes— Poisonous  fish. 264 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXII. 
Tahiti.— Arrival  at   Tahiti— Papeete  Bay— British    Consulate- 
American  whale  ships — Natives— Capt.  Upham — United  States- 
Consul— Disaster  at  Tongatabu. 271 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 
Tahiti. — Difference  of  time— Natives— Tongatabu — Queen  Pomare 
— Pomare-tane  — Tahitian  soldiers— Display —Church — Palace 
— Seamen's  chapel.       -        -        -        -        -        -        -        280 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 
Tahiti. — Police — Coral — Fishing  by  Torchlight — Diseases — An- 
noyances -Moonlight   at  Papeete  -  Shaving  the  head  — Native 
costume — Novel  engineering  -  Climbing  the  cocoa-nut  tree.    291 

CHAPTER  XXV. 
Tahiti. — Fruits — Cocoa-nut  oil— Sugar  —  Guava — Bread-fruit — 
Tide. 303 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 
The  South  Pacific — Retrospect  of  Tahiti — Additional  passengers 
— Accident — Snow — Iceberg — Religion  of  sailors — Bird-catch- 
ing. • 312 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 
The  South  Atlantic. — A  merchant  ship  —  Long-boat — Crew — 
Gale  —  Porpoise — Pampero  —  Dolphin  —  Waterspout  —  Protract- 
ed head-winds — Ominous  character  of  the  Flora — Employment 
of  time. 324 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 
The    South    Atlantic — Stores   of   the    Flora — Pernambuco  — 
Harbor. 338 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 
Pernambuco. — Katamarans  -  Churches  —  Splendor — Appearance 
of  the  population     Architecture  —  Fireworks  —  Supplies  purchas- 
ed— Cross  the  equator. 344 

CHAPTER  XXX. 
Home. — Bathing — Sailor's  fare— Cape  Hatteras — "Land  ho!" — 
Anchor  at  Sandy  Hook. 356 


INCIDENTS  OF  A  WHALING  VOYAGE, 


CHAPTER  I. 

VOYAGE  TO  THE  AZORES. 

Embarkation— Man  overboard — Superstition  of  seamen  in 
pect  to  sailing  on  friday — discouragements  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  voyage — description  of  a  whale-boat  and  its 
appurtenances — larboard  and  starroard  watches — flrst  as- 
pect of  the  ocean — gulf  stream — a  gale — sufferings  of  an 
invalid  on  shipboard — rainbows. 

Friday,  Oct.  11,  1839.— Early  this  morning,  the  rat- 
tling of  blocks  and  riggringf,  and  the  animating  cries  of 
the  seamen,  announced  that  the  North  America  was  get- 
ting under  way ;  and  soon  the  barque  with  her  swel- 
ling sails  distended  by  a  gentle  breeze,  swung  from  her 
moorings.  The  wind  was  fair,  and  as  we  glided  out  of 
the  beautiful  harbor  of  New-London,  the  clear  air  of  the 
morning,  the  favoring  breeze,  and  the  bright  sun  mir- 
rored in  a  thousand  tiny  waves,  soon  dispelled  the  gloom 
of  parting  from  those  1  loved,  and  even  inspired  me  with 
renovated  spirits.  The  band  of  the  Revenue  Cutter 
was  going  through  its  morning  exercises,  and  I  listened 
to  the  national  "airs  it  was  performing,  until  growing 
fainter  and  fainter,  they  were  lost  in  the  distance.  A 
new  feeling  of  patriotism  was  awakened  within  me ; 
and  these  simple  strains,  that  on  ordinary  occasions, 
would  scarcely  have  been  heeded,  were  now  associated 
with  many  endearing  recollections,  and  invested  with  a 
melody  and  sentiment  I  had  never  before  discerned  in 

• 


12  VOYAGE    TO    THE    AZORES. 

them.  Month  after  month  will  perhaps  have  rolled  over 
me,  ere  I  shall  again  hear  the  inspiring  strains  of  "Hail 
Columbia,  happy  land,"  in  my  own  favored  country  to 
which  I  am  now  bidding  adieu — it  may  be  forever.  But 
from  these  painful  suggestions  that  now  and  then  strug- 
gled to  obtain  possession  of  my  mind,  I  turned  with  in- 
terest to  the  scenes  as  they  opened  before  me  in  my  new 
habitation,  the  first  aspect  of  which  was  not  the  most  fa- 
vorable. 

The  North  America  is  a  Temperance  ship;  that  is, 
no  ardent  spirits  are  served  out  to  the  men  on  any  occa- 
sion. This,  however,  does  not  preclude  them  from  be- 
coming intoxicated  whenever  an  opportunity  presents 
itself,  which  two  or  three  of  them,  judging  from  appear- 
ances, would  not  be  very  reluctant  to  embrace.  The 
prospect  of  a  voyage  of  three  or  four  years  in  length  is 
an  incentive  to  greater  excess,  while  intoxicating  liquors 
can  be  purchased  to  drown  the  unpleasant  anticipations 
incident  to  so  long  a  separation  from  country  and  kin- 
dred. 

Inebriety  is  by  no  means  as  prevalent  among  sea-far- 
ing people  as  was  formerly  the  case,  since  the  abandon- 
ment of  the  idea  that  intoxicating  drinks  were  indispen- 
sable to  the  sailor.  It  has  been  within  a  few  years  only 
that  the  plan  of  sailing  ships  upon  temperance  principles, 
has  come  into  extensive  use  ;  before  this,  if  a  master  of  a 
ship,  in  visiting  another,  declined  a  glass  of  spirits,  his 
refusal  was  regarded  as  an  insult.  Soon  after  the  com- 
mencement of  the  temperance  reform,  Major  Williams, 
of  New-London,  determined  to  lend  the  weight  of  his 
extensive  influence  in  promoting  temperance  aboard  the 
whale-ships  sailing  out  of  this  port,  in  which  he  was 
interested.  His  exertions,  although  meeting  with  great 
opposition  at  first,  were  successful — other  influential  men 


MAN     OVERBOARD.  13 

followed  his  example — and  now,  out  of  the  thirty  or 
forty  whaling  vessels  belonging  to  the  port  of  New-Lon- 
don, almost  all  are  navigated  upon  temperance  princi- 
ples. To  the  credit  of  the  American  Whale  Fishery,  it 
ought  to  be  added,  that  the  proportion  of  vessels  of  this 
character,  is  much  greater  in  this  service  than  in  any 
other  department  of  our  marine. 

This  afternoon,  as  I  was  standing  at  the  starboard 
gangway,  watching  the  progress  of  the  ship  through  the 
water,  a  sailor  passed  by  me,  and  letting  himself  down 
the  side  of  the  ship  by  the  chains,  very  deliberately  threw 
himself  overboard,  and  commenced  swimming  towards 
land,  then  distant  three  or  four  miles. 

"  Man  overboard  ! — man  overboard !"  resounded  from 
every  part  of  the  ship — a  boat  was  lowered,  manned, 
and  put  oif  to  rescue  him  from  a  certain  death.  He 
swam  very  well,  however,  although  encumbered  with 
heavy  woolen  clothes,  but  was  soon  overtaken,  hauled 
into  the  boat,  and  held  down  as  he  endeavored  to 
plunge  into  the  sea  again.  After  a  change  of  clothes, 
he  was  put  into  his  berth,  with  some  one  to  watch  him, 
lest  he  should  make  another  attempt  to  leave  the  ship. 
This  man  is  a  boat-steerer,  (a  grade  of  petty  officers 
aboard  a  whaler,  about  whom  I  shall  speak  more  partic- 
ularly by-and-by)  and  a  first-rate  seaman,  who  had 
been  to  sea  all  his  life-time,  and  had  seen  all  kinds  of 
service.  For  a  week  or  two  before  the  sailing  of  the 
North  America,  he  was  constantly  intoxicated,  and  this 
insane  attempt  to  leave  the  ship,  was  owing  to  the  mad- 
dening and  stupefying  effects  of  constant  inebriety.* 


*  He  afterwards  became  a  very  good  friend  of  mine,  and  gave  me  a  variety 
of  information  about  ships,  and  "spun  me  many  a  yarn"  of  his  adven- 
tures at  sea. 

ill 


14  VOYAGE    TO    THE    AZORES.  ^  . 

The  wind,  which  during  the  day,  hardly  moved 
the  ship  through  the  water,  as  evening  came  on,  veer- 
ed ahead.  A  head  tide  also,  opposed  our  progress,  and 
as  the  sky  towards  the  south-east  looked  lowering, 
with  some  indications  of  a  gale,  it  was  thought  advisa- 
ble to  return.  The  ship's  head  was  soon  pointing  to- 
wards New-London,  distant  about  twelve  miles,  and  we 
came  to  anchor  two  or  three  miles  from  the  shore,  where 
we  lay  during  the  night.  Early  on  Saturday  morning, 
as  the  wind  continued  to  increase  from  the  south-east, 
we  hauled  in  opposite  the  light-house. 

Sunday,  Oct.  13.  Soon  after  the  ship  was  moored, 
yesterday,  I  went  ashore  with  Captain  Richards  and  the 
pilot,  where  we  remained  until  this  morning,  when  at  an 
early  hour  we  were  summoned  on  board  ship,  as  the 
weather  seemed  favorable  for  going  to  sea.  But  our  ex- 
pectations are  disappointed,  and  here  we  lie  without 
breeze  enough  to  carry  us  out,  while  a  damp  atmosphere 
and  cloudy  sky,  render  our  situation  extremely  dismal. 
It  is  the  Sabbath  too,  and  while  the  solemn  tones  of  the 
distant  church-bell  should  awaken  emotions  befitting  the 
day,  our  own  unpleasant  situation  engrosses  all  our  at- 
tention ;  and  instead  of  occupying  our  minds  with  the 
solemn  duties  of  the  Sabbath,  we  are  watching  the  clouds 
for  indications  of  fair  weather. 

Monday,  Oct.  14.  "  Boat-ahoy,"  hailed  the  officer  of 
the  deck,  as  a  boat  was  seen  coming  down  to  us,  rowed 
by  two  boys,  carrying  a  large  bag  in  the  bow  of  their  tiny 
craft,  intended  for  the  ship.  We  were  endeavoring  to 
divine  the  contents  of  it,  which  were  supposed  to  be  of  a 
highiy  valuable  character,  from  the  important  air  exhib- 
ited by  the  boys.  The  bag  was  hoisted  upon  deck  and 
opened,  when  out  jumped  an  old  cat  and  her  numerous 
progeny,  that  ran  squalling  around  the  deck  to  our  sur- 


tm 


UPERSTITION    OF    SEAMEN.  15 


prise  and  diversion.  Cats  are  consequential  personages 
on  board,  as  they  protect  us  from  the  depredations  of 
huge  cock-roaches  that  swarm  in  every  direction.  I 
found  one  of  these  erratic  black-legs  the  other  day,  up  in 
the  main-top,  wandering  about  very  much  at  his  leisure. 
Capt.  R.,  a  few  days  ago,  in  speaking  of  the  good  quali- 
ties of  the  North  America,  said  that  "  she  was  built  en- 
tirely of  live  oak,"  which  subsequent  observations  have 
fully  verified ! 

Last  evening,  the  clouds  for  a  short  time  dispersed, 
and  the  stars  and  the  moon  beaming  forth,  seemed  to 
promise  a  favorable  change  in  the  weather.  Not  long 
after,  however,  the  sky  was  again  overcast,  and  before 
morning,  an  easterly  storm  came  pattering  down  upon 
deck,  with  the  gloomy  prospect  of  another  dismal  day. 
If  I  had  not  started  with  a  good  resolution  to  be  discon- 
certed by  nothing  that  might  happen,  I  should  by  this 
time  have  been  tempted  to  give  up  an  enterprise  so  in- 
auspiciously  begun.  "  So  much  for  sailing  on  Friday," 
an  old  salt  would  say.  There  has  been  a  singular  super- 
stition prevalent  among  seamen  about  sailing  on  Friday; 
and  in  former  times,  to  sail  on  this  day,  would  have  been 
regarded  as  a  violation  of  the  mysterious  character  of  the 
day,  which  would  be  visited  with  disaster  upon  the  of- 
fender. Even  now  it  is  not  entirely  abandoned  ;  and  if 
a  voyage,  commenced  on  Friday,  happens  to  be  unfortu- 
nate, all  the  ill-luck  of  the  voyage  is  ascribed  to  having 
sailed  on  this  day.  An  intelligent  ship-master  told  me, 
that  although  he  had  no  faith  in  this  superstition,  yet  so 
firmly  were  sailors  formerly  impressed  with  superstitious 
notions,  respecting  this  day,  that  until  within  a  few  years, 
he  should  never  have  ventured  to  sail  on  Friday,  for  the 
men  would  be  appalled  by  dangers  which  they  would 
think,  lightly  of  on  common  occasions,  and  their  efforts 


16  VOYAGE    TO    THE    AZORES, 

would  be  paralyzed  by  their  imaginary  fears  of  being 
under  a  mysterious  and  malignant  influence.  I  have 
been  told,  that  several  years  ago,  a  ship  was  built  and 
sent  to  sea,  to  test  this  superstition,  and  convince  the  craft 
of  its  folly.  The  keel  of  the  ship  was  laid  on  Friday ; 
on  Friday  her  masts  were  set ;  she  was  completed  on 
Friday,  and  launched  on  this  day.  Her  name  was 
"  Friday,"  and  she  was  sent  to  sea  on  Friday ;  but  un- 
fortunately for  the  success  of  the  experiment,  was  never 
heard  of  more. 

i  As  knowledge  advances,  all  opinions  not  consonant 
with  reason  must  be  abandoned,  and  this  superstition  is 
fast  losing  its  hold  on  the  minds  of  sea-faring  men,  espe- 
cially since  the  establishment  of  the  packet  lines,  and  the 
frequent  necessity  of  sailing  on  Friday.  It  had  its  ori- 
gin, I  am  told,  in  the  ancient  custom  of  executing  crimi- 
nals upon  this  day,  which  imparted  to  it  an  unlucky 
character.  I  have  also  heard  it  ascribed  to  a  connection 
with  some  of  the  observances  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  which  entertains  some  peculiar  notions  with  re- 
gard to  this  day. 

Tuesday r,  Oct.  15.  Rain — rain — rain — with  a  raw 
wind  from  the  north-east — cold  and  cheerless  on  deck — 
damp  and  dismal  in  the  cabin.  For  our  encouragement, 
the  barometer,  which  for  the  last  three  days  has  been 
continually  falling,  is  now  rising,  indicative  of  fair  wea- 
ther. 

This  morning,  hearing  an  unusual  noise  upon  deck, 
I  ran  up  the  companion-way,  and,  at  the  distance  of 
thirty  or  forty  yards  from  the  ship,  saw  one  of  the  men 
making  desperate  efforts  to  reach  the  shore  by  swim- 
ming. One  of  the  boats  had  just  been  lowered — pursuit 
was  instantly  made,  and  the  man  with  but  little  resis- 
tance, was  secured  and  brought  on  board,  crest-fallen 


DISCOURAGEMENTS.  17 

enough,  in  his  dripping  clothes,  with  his  shoes  tied 
around  his  neck.  "  Come  here,"  said  the  commanding 
officer,  (the  second  mate)  in  an  authoritative  tone. 
"  Well,  you  were  going  to  leave  us  in  the  lurch,  were 

you?"     "Why  sir,  Mr.  L (the  first  mate,  who  was 

on  shore)  told  me  I  might  go  ashore  with  him,  and  he 
went  off  without  me."  "And  so  you  thought  you'd 
work  to  windward  of  us  in  this  way,  eh  ?"  "  Why  sir, 
1  thought  he  didn't  do  what  was  right."  "  You  thought  ? 
Well,  I'll  tell  you  what  /  think,  and  I'll  inform  you  in 
the  most  delicate  manner,  that  if  you  show  any  more  of 
such  fandangos  here,  you'll  be  clapped  down  into  the 
lower  hold,  sir,  with  some  irons  around  your  wrists,  that 
don't  look  quite  so  pretty  as  ladies'  bracelets  neither — 
bear  that  in  mind,  and  be  off,  sir." 

The  crew,  though  very  quiet  in  general,  are  begin- 
ning to  show  signs  of  impatience,  and  if  there  are  no  in- 
dications of  fair  weather  at  sunset,  an  attempt  will  un- 
doubtedly be  made  to  desert  during  the  night.  With 
the  few  exceptions  I  mentioned  before,  they  are  very 
temperate,  and  1  have  heard  but  little  bad  language  or 
profanity  on  board,  both  of  which  are  prohibited  by  the 
Captain. 

Capt.  R.  left  us  last  Sunday  evening,  and  has  not 
yet  returned.  I  should  have  accompanied  him  up  to 
town,  were  it  not  that  I  had  already  bidden  my  friends 
"  good-bye"  three  times,  and  did  not  like  to  impair  the 
virtue  of  the  "  Farewell  "  by  repetition. 

Wednesday ;  Oct.  16.  Yesterday  afternoon  the  clouds 
began  to  break  away,  and  the  sun  shone  forth  to  glad- 
den us  after  a  long  absence  of  his  cheering  beams.  The 
moon,  too,  favored  us  last  evening  with  her  kindly  ra- 
diance, and  long  I  paced  the  deck,  musing  on  the  real- 
ity of  the  enterprise  in  which  I  had*  embarked.     When 


18  VOYAGE    TO    THE    AZORES. 

we  are  preparing  for  a  long  voyage,  we  talk  of  separation 
from  home,  kindred,  and  country  with  a  kind  of  vague- 
ness as  if  it  would  never  be  realized ;  but  when  we  have 
actually  embarked,  and  there  is  no  return,  then  the  reality 
comes  vividly  to  mind,  and  impresses  us  with  the  mag- 
nitude of  the  enterprise ;  while  the  uncertainties  of  the 
future  forbid  our  anticipating  its  termination.  The 
future  to  me  is  more  than  ordinarily  uncertain.  To 
picture  to  myself  my  various  wanderings  over  the  mighty 
ocean,  in  accommodating  myself  to  the  erratic  life  I  have 
now  chosen,  and  after  leaving  my  present  shipmates  to 
trace  out  my  circuitous  course  back  to  my  native  land,  is 
beyond  the  reach  of  mortal  ken  and  were  a  vain  attempt. 
And  there  are  solemn  musings  too.  Ere  I  return,  the 
irrevocable  hand  of  death  may  invade  the  home  of  my 
youth  and  the  circle  of  kindred  friends,  and  consign 
one  or  more  to  the  grave !  Ah !  these  are  the  saddest 
thoughts,  that  press  like  an  incubus  upon  the  spirits  of 
the  voyager  as  he  leaves  his  native  shores. 

Early  this  morning,  the  Captain  came  on  board,  and 
soon  we  "  hove  short" — the  sails  were  loosed — the  top- 
sails sheeted  home — the  anchor  weighed  and  catted,  and 
we  were  standing  out  of  our  anchorage.  It  was  a 
lovely  morning.  The  sun  just  emerging  behind  the 
long  line  of  hills  that  bound  the  eastern  side  of  New 
London  harbor,  was  fringed  with  the  light  fog  that  floated 
down  the  river,  tinged  with  his  golden  rays.  With  the 
light  wind  that  fanned  our  sails,  we  glided  slowly  along 
over  the  smooth  waters  of  the  sound,  and  by  noon,  having 
passed  through  "the  Race,"*  were  directing  our  course 
towards  Montauk  Point. 

*  That  part  of  Long  Island  Sound  between  Fisher's  Island  and  Gall  Island, 
is  called  "  the  race,"  on  account  of  the  velocity  of  the  tides  between  these 
islands. 


WHALE-BOAT.  19 

Thursday,  Oct*  17.  The  wind  has  been  light  and 
baffling  since  yesterday.  This  noon  there  was  a  perfect 
calm,  and  upon  the  eighth  day  from  the  date  of  our  first 
setting  sail  from  New  London,  we  find  ourselves  at 
anchor  off'  Montauk  point,  to  prevent  being  drifted  ashore, 
instead  of  tossing  about  upon  the  Atlantic  one  third  of 
the  way  across* 

All  bands  have  been  engaged  in  various  duties  about 
the  ship,  such  as  overhauling  the  spare  canvass,  and 
stowing  away  articles  more  compactly.  The  boats  too, 
have  been  put  in  complete  order,  to  be  in  readiness  for 
the  first  opportunity  that  presents  itself  for  using  them, 
and  although  it  may  be  a  deviation  from  the  plan  I  have 
adopted,  I  cannot  do  better,  perhaps,  than  to  describe 
the  whaleboat  and  its  various  appurtenances. 

The  whaleboat  is  a  narrow,  light  built  boat  of  about 
twenty-five  feet  in  length,  sharp  at  both  ends,  with  its 
sides  gracefully  curved  and  running  up  to  a  point  fore 
and  aft,  and  from  its  construction,  is  expressly  adapted 
to  great  velocity  of  motion  and  safety  among  the  swelling 
billows  of  the  ocean.  Unlike  most  ship's  boats,  it  is 
clinker  built,  as  this  peculiar  mode  of  construction  is 
called,  i.  e.  the  thin  boards  that  cover  the  ribs  overlap 
one  another,  thus  giving  strength  to  the  boat  and  ena- 
bling it  to  be  made  much  lighter.  Each  boat  is  fitted 
with  six  oars  of  various  lengths.  The  steering  oar, 
usually  from  twenty  to  twenty  two  feet  long,  is  confined 
to  the  boat  by  a  strap  passing  around  it  and  attached  to 
the  stern  post.  This  gives  the  helmsman  great  power 
over  the  movement  of  the  boat  far  superior  to  the  steer- 
ing with  a  rudder. 

The  thole  pins,  between  which  the  oars  are  plied,  are 
covered  with  matting,  so  as  to  prevent  any  noise  in  the 


20  VOYAGE    TO    THE    AZORES. 

motion  of  the  oars.     Of  the  offensive  weapons,  the  har- 
poon is  the  most  important. 


t=" 


SPADE, 


<a    i  -Q^tiv^-^- 


HARPOON, 


The  harpoon  is  an  iron  instrument,  about  four  feet  in 
length,  terminated  at  one  end,  in  a  sharp  barbed  head, 
and  at  the  other,  in  a  socket  for  receiving  the  "iron 
pole,"  a  heavy  wooden  handle  of  about  equal  length, 
which  gives  to  the  instrument  great  momentum.  A 
strap  with  a  turn  around  the  socket  of  the  iron  secures 
it  upon  the  pole.  To  the  strap  is  attached  the  line,  a 
strong  rope  about  two  hundred  fathoms  long,  which  is 
carefully  coiled  up  in  a  tub  placed  in  the  afterpart  of  the 
boat ;  and  going  around  the  "  loggerhead,"  a  strong  post 
projecting  above  the  stern,  passes  through  a  "chock"  or 
grove  in  the  bow  of  the  boat,  and  is  "  bent  on  "  to  the 
harpoon.  Each  boat  usually  carries  four  or  five  har- 
poons, two  of  which  are  always  ready  for  immediate  use 
when  the  boat  is  in  pursuit  of  whales.  Their  barbed 
heads  lie  across  the  bow  of  the  boat,  with  their  shafts 
resting  upon  two  *  crotches,"  or  spurs,  standing  out  from 
a  stick  rising  from  the  side  of  the  boat.  This  position 
gives  steadiness  to  the  weapon,  and  it  is  close  at  hand 
whenever  opportunity  offers  for  using  it. 


MODE    OP    ATTACK.  21 

The  lance  is  two  or  three  feet  longer  than  the  har- 
poon. Its  head  is  of  an  oval  shape,  pointed  with  steel, 
and  its  shaft  is  long  and  slender,  with  the  "warp"  a 
small  line  about  eight  fathoms  long,  attached  to  the  ex- 
tremity of  it. 

The  spade  is  a  short  instrument,  with  a  thin,  wide 
blade  set  upon  a  light  shaft  of  five  or  six  feet  in  length. 

These  instruments  are  ground  to  a  very  keen  edge, 
and  kept  constantly  bright.  Their  sharp  heads  are  en- 
closed in  sheaths,  to  defend  them  from  injury,  as  also  to 
prevent  their  doing  any  mischief.  A  hatchet,' a  couple 
of  knives,  a  water-keg,  a  lantern,  and  a  boat  compass, 
together  with  one  or  more  buckets,  complete  the  equip- 
ment of  a  boat. 

Six  men  constitute  a  boat's  complement.  Of  these, 
the  captain  or  one  of  his  mates  is  one,  who  directs  the 
attack  upon  the  whale.  There  is  also  a  subordinate  of- 
ficer called  boat-stecrer,  who  performs  the  duties  of  a 
cockswain,  taking  care  of  the  boat  with  its  appurtenan- 
ces. To  each  man  is  assigned  an  oar  and  a  station  in 
the  boat,  to  avoid  any  confusion  when  starting  in  pur- 
suit of  a  whale. 

In  attacking  the  whale,  the  captain  or  one  of  his  offi- 
cers takes  the  steering  oar,  and  directs  the  boat  in  the 
onset.  The  boatsteerer  pulls  the  short  oar  in  the  bow 
of  the  boat,  and  at  a  signal  or  command  from  the  officer, 
draws  in  his  oar,  and  taking  his  stand  firmly  in  the  bow, 
when  the  word  is  given,  darts  the  harpoon  with  all  his 
strength  into  the  whale.  Sometimes  he  is  so  successful 
as  to  fix  both  irons,  which  generally  ensures  the  capture 
of  the  struggling  monster.  He  now  exchanges  places 
with  the  officer,  and  takes  the  steering  oar,  while  the 
latter  comes  forward  to  thrust  the  lance  into  the  vitals 
of  the  whale  whenever  he  comes  up  to  blow,  a  feat  re- 


22  VOYAGE    TOT  HE     AZORES. 

quiring  no  ordinary  dexterity.  The  moment  the  whale 
begins  to  slacken  the  line  to  which  he  is  «  fast,"  it  is 
hauled  in,  and  coiled  up  carefully  in  the  tub,  while  the 
boat  is  drawn  towards  the  whale,  as  he  comes  on  top 
of  water,  when  he  receives  several  thrusts  of  the  lance 
in  succession,  which  often  enters  to  the  depth  of  several 
feet.  When  the  animal  is  very  violent  in  his  move- 
ments, a  few  strokes  of  the  spade  across  the  sinews  of 
his  flukes,  disable  these  his  most  powerful  weapon  of 
defence  and  motion.  The  line  is  confined  to  the  grove 
in  the  bow  of  the  boat  by  a  wooden  peg,  which  breaks 
in  case  the  line  becomes  entangled,  thus  averting  the  ex- 
treme danger  of  being  instantly  carried  down. 

Thus  much  for  the  description  of  the  whale-boat  at 
present,  which  in  grace  and  velocity  of  motion,  is  not 
excelled  by  any  ship's  boat. 

On  board  of  all  vessels,  the  men  are  separated  into 
two  divisions,  called  the  larboard  and  starboard  watches. 
The  first  and  third  mates  command  the  larboard  watch, 
and  the  second  mate  commands  the  starboard  watch. 
This  morning,  the  crew  were  all  summoned  upon  the 
quarter  deck,  and  the  first  and  second  mate  selected  alter- 
nately, the  members  of  their  respective  watches.  The 
Captain  and  each  of  the  officers,  in  a  similar  manner,  in 
the  order  of  rank,  then  made  choice  of  the  required 
number  for  the  boat  he  commanded. 

Friday,  Oct.  18.  Last  evening  the  ship  was  again 
under  way,  and  at  sunrise  this  morning,  land  was  no 
where  visible.  There  was  scarcely  breeze  enough  to 
steady  the  ship,  while  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  not 
an  object  presented  itself  to  break  the  monotony  of  the 
ocean  with  its  ceaseless  undulations,  or  to  impair  the 
emotions  of  sublimity  with  which  vastness  of  extent  im- 
pressed me,  as  I  scanned  with  eager  eye,  the  uninter- 


ASaUALL.  23 

rupted  curve  of  the  horizon.  The  open  ocean  is  rarely 
calrcij  such  as  we  see  in  the  waters  of  our  lakes  and  riv- 
ers. Even  in  its  stillest  moments,  when  not  a  breath  of 
air  agitates  it,  its  surface  is  perpetually  heaving  as  if 
with  some  internal  commotion.  For  the  fathomless  wa- 
ters of  the  ocean  acquire  such  a  momentum  when  the 
storm  comes  over  their  depths,  that  even  when  the  winds 
are  hushed,  they  do  not  soon  subside. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  5.  In  resuming  the  thread  of  my  nar- 
rative, which  has  been  interrupted  for  more  than  two 
weeks,  I  cannot  do  better  perhaps  than  to  commence 
from  my  last  date,  and  endeavor  to  give  a  slight  sketch 
of  what  has  befallen  me  in  the  meantime. 

On  Saturday,  Oct.  19,  towards  evening,  the  rain  began 
to  fall  in  frequent  showers  from  the  South.  About  11 
o'clock  that  night,  I  was  roused  from  my  slumbers  by 
the  rolling  of  boxes  in  the  cabin,  and  the  crash  of  the 
steward's  crockery  in  the  pantry,  the  howling  of  the 
wind  and  the  loud  tone  of  command  from  the  officer  on 
deck.  "  Tumble  aft — tumble  aft  here  every  one  of  you. 
Let  go  your  top-gallant  halliards  fore  and  aft — clew  up 
— mind  your  helm — keep  her  off  before  it — main-tack 
and  sheet  let  go — clew  him  up,  clew  him  up — jump,  for 
your  lives,  men — top-sail  halliards  let  go— one  of  you 
give  'em  a  call  there  in  the  forecastle  and  steerage." 
"All  hands  a-hoy,"  just  heard  above  the  roar  of  the 
winds,  summoned  the  larboard  watch  on  deck,  as  we 
sprang  up  the  companion-way  to  ascertain  the  cause  of 
the  sudden  alarm.  We  had  been  moving  along  under 
easy  sail,  when  upon  nearing  the  gulf  stream,  a  heavy 
squall  struck  us  from  the  west.  The  top-gallant  sails 
and  top-sails  had  been  settled  down,  while  the  main 
course  was  flapping  about  with  a  noise  like  thunder. 

In  a  short  time,  however,  all  the  sails  were  snugly 


24  VOYAGE    TO    THE    AZORES. 

furled,  with  the  exception  of  a  close-reefed  main-top-sail 
and  fore-sail,  under  which  we  drove  before  the  gale  that 
pursued  us  across  the  gulf  stream.  The  next  day  (Sun- 
day) a  sea  struck  our  larboard  quarter  boat,  and  dashed 
her  to  pieces, — a  bad  omen  for  the  commencement  of 
the  voyage.  We  have  since  had  another  boat  stove  by 
the  violence  of  the  sea,  which  dashes  in  very  frequently 
across  the  waist  of  the  ship. 

I  had  brought  a  thermometer  with  me  for  the  particu- 
lar purpose  of  ascertaining  the  temperature  of  the  water 
in  the  gulf  stream ;  but  the  violence  of  the  sea  put  an 
end  to  all  philosophical  speculations.  I  was  informed, 
however,  by  those  that  were  drenched  by  the  spray,  that 
the  water  was  very  warm.* 

The  air,  too,  was  mild,  unlike  the  storms  we  have  at 
home  in  the  month  of  October,  in  this  respect.  Indeed, 
the  temperature  of  the  ocean  air  off  soundings,  is  always 
much  higher  than  that  of  the  land  in  the  same  latitudes, 
out  of  the  tropics  in  the  cool  season  of  the  year.  For 
the  three  weeks,  during  which  we  have  been  at  sea,  we 
have  had  no  weather  cold  enough  for  an  overcoat,  ex- 
cept at  night,  although  at  home,  I  presume,  anthracite 
fires  are  glowing  to  repel  the  first  approaches  of  winter. 

In  a  day  or  two  we  had  crossed  the  gulf  stream,  and 
were  promising  ourselves  a  delightful  run  to  the  Azores, 
when  the  wind  came  around  ahead  from  the  eastward, 
where  it  continued  for  eleven  days  without  alteration. 
At  one  time  we  ran  down  as  far  as  the  Bermudas,  and 
were  admonished  to  alter  our  course  by  the  frequent 
squalls  that  assailed  us. 

During  the  stormy  weather  in  the  gulf  stream,  I  con- 
fined myself  to  my  berth,  as  the  most  comfortable  place 

*  Its  known  temperature  in  this  latitude  is  about  72  deg. 


THE    INVALID    AT    SEA.  25 

I  could  find,  and  with  bundles  on  each  side  of  me,  en- 
deavored to  keep  myself  from  rolling  about.  The  mo- 
tion of  the  vessel,  and  the  intolerable  smell  of  bilge  wa- 
ter which  came  steaming  up  from  the  hold  through  the 
crevices  in  my  state  room,  brought  on  a  disease,  that 
for  more  than  two  weeks,  completely  disabled  me.  It 
was  not  sea-sickness  under  which  I  labored,  but  an 
extreme  debility  accompanied  with  fever.  There  can 
be  no  mistaking  the  former,  and  I  considered  myself 
well  versed  in  it  from  an  intimate  acquaintance  during 
several  coasting  voyages.  A  determination  to  rise  supe- 
rior to  my  physical  weakness,  was  the  only  thing  that 
enabled  me  to  counteract  the  extreme  depression  that  as- 
sailed me ;  and  I  have  never  been  more  convinced  of 
the  truth  of  a  saying  which  has  almost  become  a  pro- 
verb— "  that  a  resolute  spirit  has  greater  efficacy  in  com- 
batting our  bodily  ills,  than  medical  prescriptions."  No 
disrespect  to  the  profession,  however. 

When  we  are  sick  on  shore,  we  obtain  good  medical 
advice,  kind  attention,  quiet  rest,  and  a  well  ventilated 
room.  The  invalid  at  sea,  can  command  but  very  few 
of  these  alleviations  to  his  sufferings.  The  attentions 
he  receives,  have  none  of  that  soothing  influence,  which 
woman's  tender  sympathy  alone  can  impart.  Undisturb- 
ed repose  is  out  of  the  question,  where  every  thing  is  in 
motion  and  the  bulkheads  are  dismally  creaking.  The 
air  of  the  cabin  of  a  ship  is  always  close  and  uncomfort- 
able in  bad  weather.  Let  a  man  be  sick  any  where  else 
but  on  shipboard. 

For  the  last  three  or  four  days,  the  wind  has  hauled 
around  to  the  west  and  north-west,  with  frequent  squalls. 
Hardly  a  day  passes,  but  the  wind  comes  whistling  down 
upon  us,  and  lashing  us  awhile  in  its  fury,  leaves  us,  to 
be  soon  succeeded  by  another,  when  the  same  scenes  of 

3 


26  VOYAGE    TO    THE    AZORES. 

"letting  go  the  halliards — clewing  up  and  clewing 
down — "  are  enacted  over  and  over  again.  During  the 
intervals,  the  ship  rolls  heavily  in  the  sea,  and  the  deck 
is  washed  by  the  sea  breaking  in  across  her  waist. 
Buckets,  pieces  of  wood,  and  other  loose  articles  run 
around  the  deck  in  wild  disorder,  to  the  serious  annoy- 
ance and  hazard  of  one's  nether  limbs.  Shower  baths 
provided  gratis  for  those  who  are  not  on  the  look-out  for 
themselves.  We  have  seen  no  whales  as  yet,  and  even 
if  we  had,  the  sea  has  been  too  high  for  a  boat  to  ven- 
ture out  in  pursuit. 

During  the  frequent  squalls  of  the  few  days  past,  I 
have  been  delighted  with  the  beautiful  rainbows  that 
formed  at  all  hours  of  the  day — now  spanning  the  hea- 
vens in  a  regular  arch,  then  rising  above  the  sea  like 
two  pillars  of  resplendent  colors,  and  again  but  just  ting- 
ing the  clouds  with  their  brilliant  hues. 

We  are  now  about  eighteen  hundred  miles  from  the 
United  States,  and  expect  to  reach  the  Western  Islands 
in  six  or  eight  days. 


CHAPTER  II. 

FAYAL. 

Arrival  at  Fayal — Appearance  of  the  island — Situation  of 
the  town — Fortifications — Burdens  carried  by  porters — 
Streets  and  buildings — Costumes  of  the  different  classes — 
Ladies  of  Fayal — Consul's  gardens — Manufacture  and  ex- 
portation of  wine — Casualties  incident  to  the  life  of  a  wha- 
ler— Dinner  at  the  Consul 's — Supplees  laid  in  at  Fayal — 
Departure — Lunar  bow. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  12.  This  morning  at  seven  bells  (7± 
o'clock)  "  Land-ho  !"  was  sounded  from  mast-head,  and 
soon  the  high  hills  of  Fayal,  one  of  the  Western  Islands, 
were  dimly  seen  through  the  mist  that  shrouded  their 
summits. 

The  Azores,  or  Western  Islands,  as  this  group  is  usu- 
ally called,  lie  within  the  parallels  of  north  latitude  39° 
44',  and  36°  59',  and  the  meridians  31°  T  and  25°  10'  west. 
They  are  nine  in  number,  spreading  over  a  considerable 
extent  of  ocean,  and  distant  from  the  United  States  about 
two  thousand  seven  hundred  miles.  Their  names  are 
Corvo,  Flores,  Fayal,  Pico,  St.  Jorge,  Graciosa,  Terceira, 
St.  Miguel,  and  Santa  Maria. 

To  me  the  sight  of  land  was  very  acceptable,  after  the 
report  I  had  heard  of  the  tropical  fruits  growing  upon 
these  islands  ;  and  it  was  with  great  pleasure  that  I  saw 
the  beautifully  verdant  hills  of  Fayal  rising  rapidly  be- 
fore us,  as  we  neared  them  before  a  fair  and  fresh  breeze 
from  the  westward. 

Fayal  presents  a  somewhat  picturesque  appearance ; 
its  surface  is  very  undulating,  and  high  hills  crowned 


28  FAYAL. 

with  the  richest  verdure,  complete  its  outline.  We 
coasted  along  the  south  side  of  the  island,  where  the 
shore  is  very  bold,  rising  abruptly  from  the  ocean,  while 
the  surf  breaks  incessantly  in  foam  and  spray  upon  the 
rocks  that  line  the  coast. 

Each  hill- side  was  covered  with  innumerable  patches 
of  the  richest  green,  which,  I  believe,  were  fields  of 
grain.  On  this  part  of  the  island,  there  are  but  few 
trees  of  any  magnitude.  Around  the  sparsely  scattered 
houses,  that  we  saw  through  the  spy-glass,  we  observed, 
however,  small  clusters  of  shrubbery. 

To  the  eastward  of  Fayal,  separated  by  a  narrow 
channel  about  five  miles  wide,  is  the  island  Pico,  with 
its  mountainous  summit,  called  the  Peak  of  Pico,  tower- 
ing into  the  region  of  the  clouds.  Its  height,  I  am  told, 
is  7,016  feet  or  1-J-  miles  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  and 
for  the  greater  part  of  the  time,  it  is  entirely  obscured 
by  the  mists  that  rest  upon  its  summit. 

As  we  approached  Fayal,  just  abreast  of  the  ship  rose 
up  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge,  a  dark  rock,  which 
at  a  distance,  looks  like  a  yawning  cavern  in  the  side  of 
the  island.  A  little  to  the  right  is  seen  a  cluster  of 
buildings  and  a  church,  which  with  their  white  plastered 
walls,  have  a  very  pretty  effect,  contrasted  with  the  ver- 
dure of  the  fields.  Far  to  the  right  is  seen  the  island  of 
Pico,  with  its  lofty  conical  summit.  Between  this  and 
Fayal,  as  I  have  before  said,  is  a  narrow  channel,  on  the 
left  hand  side  of  which,  just  after  rounding  the  high 
bluff  on  the  south-eastern  side  of  the  latter,  the  town  of 
Fayal  opens  before  you,  built  upon  the  sides  of  several 
hills  that  incline  towards  the  sea.  Upon  this  bluff  is  a 
small  fortification,  garrisoned  by  Portuguese  soldiers ; 
and  there  is  also  another  fort  facing  the  harbor,  which 
mounts  nine  or  ten  guns,  of  no  very  formidable  charac- 


TOWN    OF    FAYAL.  29 

ter,  as  I  should  judge.  The  harbor  of  Fayal,  the  only 
one  among  these  islands  that  offers  any  anchorage  to 
ships,  is  but  a  mere  indentation  in  the  land,  and  is  safe 
only  with  a  westerly  or  northerly  wind.  These  islands 
are  subject  to  frequent  and  violent  gales  of  wind,  and 
during  a  storm  from  the  south,  the  ocean  comes  rolling 
into  the  harbor  in  all  its  fury,  oftentimes  carrying  away 
the  stone  wall  that  defends  the  town  on  the  side  of  the 
harbor,  constructed  expressly  to  resist  the  violence  of 
the  sea.  The  harbor  is  very  deep,  and  the  ordinary 
chains  of  ships  are  insufficient  to  hold  them  in  a  gale  of 
wind  from  the  southward. 

There  were  one  or  two  small,  rakish  looking  vessels 
lying  at  anchor  near  the  shore,  and  a  fine  large  ship, 
standing  off  and  on,  with  the  American  ensign  flying  at 
her  mizzen  peak.  She  proved  to  be  a  whaler,  from  Wil- 
mington, Delaware,  and  soon  came  to  anchor  to  repair 
her  rudder,  the  head  of  which  had  been  twisted  off  in  a 
gale  of  wind. 

When  about  a  mile  from  the  landing  place,  we  round- 
ed to,  and  a  boat  was  lowered  to  put  the  Captain  and 
myself  ashore.  The  wind  was  fresh  and  flawy,  and  by 
the  time  we  reached  the  shore,  we  were  all  well  sprink- 
led with  salt-water. 

Fayal,  like  many  other  places,  presents  the  best  ap- 
pearance at  a  considerable  distance  off.  As  you  draw 
nearer  and  nearer,  the  beautiful  white  walls  of  the 
houses  become  more  and  more  dingy,  while  the  dark 
muddy  looking  wall  rising  up  from  the  water's  edge, 
gives  to  the  town  a  peculiarly  unprepossessing  aspect. 
There  are  no  docks,  and  but  two  or  three  landing  places 
for  boats.  Articles  of  merchandize  are  transported  to 
and  from  the  shipping  in  lighters,  which  are  small  craft 
of  ten  or  fifteen  ton's  burden. 
a* 


30  FAYAL. 

We  pulled  for  the  stone  quay,  which  was  crowded 
with  a  ragged,  noisy  multitude,  all  vociferating  in  a  for- 
eign language,  which  sounded  to  me  like  another  "  con- 
fusion of  tongues."  It  has  a  strange  effect  upon  the 
mind,  when  we  hear  for  the  first  time  a  language  we 
cannot  comprehend,  while  our  own  becomes  a  novelty. 
Then  we  feel  that  we  are  indeed  in  the  land  of  stran- 
gers. 

We  were  interrogated  by  the  health  officer,  before  we 
were  permitted  to  land,  as  to  "  Where  we  were  from  V 
"How  many  days  out?"  &c.  The  answers  were  satis- 
factory and  we  were  allowed  to  pass.  Our  men  in  the 
boat,  however,  underwent  a  more  strictly  personal  exam- 
ination ;  for  immediately  after  the  health  officer  signified 
his  satisfaction  of  the  health  of  the  ship,  one  or  two 
men  jumped  into  the  boat,  and  commenced  searching 
the  pockets  of  the  crew,  to  see  if  they  had  secreted 
any  contraband  articles,  such  as  tobacco  and  soap.  Not 
much  of  the  latter  article  was  found,  as  sailors  on  duty, 
do  not  often  manifest  an  intimate  acquaintance  with  this 
article,  and  the  appearance  of  the  men  might  readily 
have  testified  to  the  contrary.  Of  the  other  interdicted 
commodity,  many  a  choice  bit  was  reluctantly  surren- 
dered, although  in  each  case  a  consolatory  quid  was  cut 
off  and  given  to  the  owner,  for  immediate  use. 

On  landing,  we  were  received  by  the  brother  of  the 
American  consul,  Mr.  Dabney,  who  invited  us  to  walk 
up  to  his  office,  which  is  but  a  short  distance  from  the 
landing  place,  and  overlooks  the  harbor.  After  a  short 
conversation  with  several  American  gentlemen  about 
the  news  from  the  United  States,  Captain  Richards  and 
myself  took  a  walk  around  the  town. 

Near  the  consul's  office  is  the  fortification,  facing 
the  harbor,  and  in  the  rear  of  it  runs  the  principal  street 


BURDENS    CARRIED    BY    PORTERS.  31 

of  the  city.  Before  the  gateway  stood  several  soldiers 
of  the  garrison,  and  we  saw  several  of  them  in  our  ram- 
ble ;  they  are  tall,  martial  looking  men,  and  their  dark 
whiskers  and  moustaches  have  a  very  dashing  appear- 
ance. Their  uniform  is  blue,  resembling  that  of  many 
of  our  military  companies  at  home.  They  wear  upon 
their  heads  little  blue  caps,  trimmed  with  red,  and  in 
shape  resembling  a  truncated  haystack.  The  entire 
number  of  soldiers  upon  the  island,  Mr.  Dabney  inform- 
ed me,  does  not  exceed  seventy. 

Wherever  we  went,  we  were  escorted  before  and  be- 
hind by  a  troop  of  ragged  boys  of  very  questionable  ap- 
pearance. The  streets  of  Fayal  are  extremely  narrow. 
They  are  paved  with  large,  flat  stones,  and  are  kept 
as  clean  as  could  be  expected,  considering  the  appear- 
ance of  the  population.  The  sidewalks  are  so  narrow, 
that  two  persons  cannot  walk  side  by  side,  without  dan- 
ger of  tripping  one  another. 

I  was  astonished  at  the  immense  burdens  the  porters 
carried  upon  their  shoulders.  They  occupied  the  mid- 
dle of  the  street,  moving  along  under  large  casks  or 
boxes,  that  seemed  heavy  enough  to  crush  them.  It 
took  two  men  on  board  our  ship  to  transport  readily,  a 
box  of  oranges,  such  as  I  saw  individuals  of  them  carry- 
ing upon  their  heads  and  shoulders. 

The  heaviest  work  is  performed  by  the  labor  of  oxen, 
yoked  to  short  carts  with  strong  wheels ;  they  are  di- 
rected with  a  stout  pole  pointed  with  iron,  which  the 
driver,  who  walks  just  before  them,  thrusts  against  their 
ribs  every  few  minutes,  not  appearing,  however,  to  ex- 
ceed in  cruelty,  the  teamsters  of  our  own  country,  whose 
wanton  application  of  the  lash  to  the  poor  patient  ox, 
has  often  roused  my  indignation. 

We  passed  through  one  of  the  principal  streets.     The 


32  FAYAL. 

houses  upon  each  side  would  be  called  three  story  build- 
ings, although  their  actual  height  was  about  that  of  our 
two  story  houses.  Before  each  of  the  upper  windows 
are  latticed  balconies,  painted  green,  in  the  front  of 
which  are  small  doors ;  some  of  these  were  opened  a 
little,  disclosing  at  one  time,  a  fair  female  face,  at  ano- 
ther, the  dirty  phiz  of  some  curious  urchin.  All  the 
houses  of  Fayal  are  built  of  stone,  and  are  whitewash- 
ed, which  gives  the  city  a  very  pretty  appearance  at  a 
distance,  as  I  before  observed.  The  population  is  about 
five  thousand,  while  that  of  the  entire  island  is  about 
twenty-eight  thousand,  as  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  Dab- 
ney.  Our  walk  extended  to  the  hospital,  a  large  white 
building,  fancifully  ornamented  with  slate  colored  fig- 
ures of  every  variety  of  curve.  It  is  a  three  story  edi- 
fice flanked  by  two  wings,  one  on  each  side,  extending 
as  far  as  any  regard  to  symmetry  would  permit.  This 
large  structure,  the  finest  by  far  in  the  city,  and  well 
located  upon  a  gentle  hill,  was  formerly  a  convent ;  but 
during  a  popular  insurrection  a  few  years  since,  the 
priests  were  expelled,  and  the  building  appropriated  as  a 
hospital,  and  as  barracks  for  soldiers.  On  that  occasion, 
the  numerous  bells  of  the  convent  were  all  melted  up 
for  coin,  with  the  exception  of  one  which  is  suspended 
in  one  of  the  windows  of  the  third  story  of  the  main 
building.  I  could  hardly  account  for  this  singular  taste, 
especially  as  the  cupola  of  the  convent  stands  close  by, 
which  one  would  suppose  to  be  the  most  natural  loca- 
tion for  a  bell.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  a  fountain,  the 
waters  of  which  rise  into  a  cistern  about  four  feet  in 
height,  supported  by  pilasters.  The  area  of  the  cistern 
is  about  ten  feet  by  four,  I  should  judge  ;  it  is  built  of 
red  sandstone,  and  must  have  supplied  the  inhabitants 
with  water  for  some  time,  as  it  bears  the  date  of  1680> 


LADIES    OF    FAYAL.  33 

sculptured  upon  one  of  the  sides.  Near  the  fountain 
reposing  upon  the  stones  of  the  street  in  undisturbed 
quiet,  lay  a  meditative  donkey,  a  sine  qua  non  in  all 
Spanish  and  Portuguese  places. 

Many  of  the  inhabitants  were  wrapped  up  in  their 
cloaks,  although  the  thermometer  stood  at  60°.  The 
women  almost  universally,  were  seen  dressed  in  large 
cloaks,  some  of  them  having  capacious  hoods  attached. 
These  cloaks  were  invariably  of  blue  color,  but  of  vari- 
ous materials,  according  to  the  rank  of  the  owners ;  the 
"ton"  of  the  city,  sported  their  broadcloth  cloaks  of  very 
ample  folds. 

These  garments,  which  with  us  usually  indicate  cold 
weather,  are,  I  am  told,  worn  also  in  the  middle  of  sum- 
mer. But  what  struck  me  as  particularly  ludicrous, 
was  the  huge  bell-topped  hat,  that  the  fashionable  ladies 
had  adopted,  which  had  at  least  the  merit  of  being  more 
easily  adjusted  to  the  person  than  the  head-dresses  worn 
by  my  fair  countrywomen.  A  large  white  handkerchief 
is  first  arranged  upon  the  head,  and  upon  this  these 
heavy  hats  tower  up  to  a  height  endangering  the  neck 
of  the  fair  owner.  She,  however,  seems  sensible  of  this, 
and  is  careful  to  keep  the  hat  nicely  balanced  upon  her 
head,  while  her  handkerchief  waving  to  the  breeze,  com- 
pletes the  costume  of  a  Fayal  lady.  The  motions  of 
the  ladies  did  not  appear  to  me  very  graceful ;  they 
came  swinging  along  half  way  between  a  trot  and  a 
walk,  reminding  me  of  the  daughters  of  Erin,  I  used  to 
see  in  New-Haven  going  to  church.  There  are  said  to 
be  some  very  pretty  ladies  in  Fayal ;  but  they  did  not,  I 
am  certain,  make  their  appearance  in  the  streets  on  the 
12th  of  November. 

The  lower  class  of  men  wore  upon  their  heads  little 
blue  conical  caps  of  cloth,  or  straw  hats  of  portly,  bell- 


34  PAYAL. 

topped  dimensions  and  shape.  Those  in  a  better  condi- 
tion in  life,  were  dressed  similarly  with  people  in  the 
United  States. 

When  we  returned  to  the  consul's  office,  an  English 
gentleman  connected  with  the  office,  politely  invited  us 
to  visit  the  consul's  gardens,  a  proposal  we  were  glad  to 
accept.  We  were  admitted  to  the  premises  by  a  private 
entrance,  which  led  to  the  front  of  the  house  through  a 
passage  way  between  two  parallel  walls  of  twelve  or  fif- 
teen feet  in  height,  which  were  covered  profusely  with 
grapevines.  It  was  in  vain  that  I  looked  for  the  grapes 
I  had  been  delighting  my  imagination  with  during  our 
voyage ;  since  the  grape  season  had  passed,  and  the 
withered  leaves  were  all  that  remained  upon  the  vines. 
We  were  shown  one  or  two  rooms  of  the  house,  that  in- 
dicated the  style  of  affluence  in  which  the  consul  is 
accustomed  to  live.  Then  passing  into  the  gardens, 
beautiful  flowers  met  our  eyes  in  every  direction,  and 
those  that  had  faded  before  we  left  the  United  States, 
were  here  exhibited  in  full  bloom.  Roses  and  Arteme- 
sias  of  various  kinds,  I  recognized  as  old  acquaintances  ; 
while  many  varieties  of  flowers,  that  were  quite  new  to 
me,  perfumed  the  air.  Many  plants  I  noticed,  were  here 
growing  in  neglected  luxuriance,  that  with  us  require 
the  most  careful  treatment.  Geraniums  towered  up- 
ward to  the  height  of  tall  shrubs,  while  the  hydrangea 
was  scattered  over  the  garden  as  one  of  the  most  com- 
mon flowers.  The  hydrangea,  as  well  as  several  other 
flowers,  which  with  us  are  of  a  pink  color,  when  trans- 
planted to  these  islands,  turns  blue,  and  vice  versa. 

The  method  of  rearing  the  orange  tree  from  the  slip, 
was  exhibited  to  us.  An  enclosure  of  tali  reeds  woven 
together  surrounds  the  tender  orange  slip  to  protect  it 
from  the  violent  winds  that  frequently  sweep  over  these 


CONSUL'S    GARDENS.  35 

islands.  In  a  year  or  two  the  young  tree  is  enabled  to 
resist  the  ordinary  blasts  that  assail  it. 

From  this  garden,  itself  of  very  ample  dimensions,  we 
were  led  through  a  tunnel  under  a  street,  into  another 
of  equal  extent,  rilled  with  many  varieties  of  tropical 
fruits.  Orange  trees,  bending  under  the  weight  of  their 
rich  yellow  burdens,  citron  and  lemon  trees,  grew  up 
thickly  together  like  the  trees  of  our  forests  :  while  the 
ear  was  charmed  with  the  warbling  of  birds.  The  grape 
vines  are  trained  upon  arbors  formed  of  the  tops  of  par- 
allel rows  of  young  poplars  entwined  together.  As  I 
looked  down  the  long  arches,  wreathed  with  prolific 
grape  vines,  and  seeming  to  meet  in  the  distance,  and 
rambled  on  through  shady  arbors,  with  the  coffee  tree 
and  the  banana  springing  up  around  me,  I  could  hardly 
believe  myself  sixteen  degrees  north  of  the  tropic,  in 
an  inclement  season  of  the  year,  and  but  about  two 
hundred  miles  to  the  southward  of  New-England. 

The  bananas  were  growing  in  an  excavated  hollow,  a 
necessary  protection  against  the  violent  winds.  The  stalk 
which  bears  the  fruit  is  three  or  four  inches  in  diameter 
and  rises  to  the  height  of  ten  or  twelve  feet.  Immense 
leaves  of  a  rich,  apple  green  color  put  out  from  the  stalk, 
which,  near  the  top,  give  place  to  the  fruit,  a  single  bunch 
numbering  from  twelve  to  twenty  bananas.  The  banana 
when  ripe,  is  of  a  golden  yellow  color  and  in  size  and 
shape,  it  very  closely  resembles  the  pod  of  the  plant 
with  us  commonly  called  milkweed  (asclepias  syriaca). 
The  rind  is  pulled  off  very  readily,  and  discloses  a  lus- 
cious and  mealy  pulp  of  a  slightly  acidulous  and  astrin- 
gent taste,  with  a  few  small  seeds  set  thickly  along  in  a 
longitudinal  core. 

These  gardens  are  situated  upon  an  inclined  plane 
above  the  level  of  the  town,  and  command  a  delightful 


36  FAYAL. 

view  of  the  ocean,  and  of  the  neighboring  island  of  Pico. 
They  are  surrounded  by  a  high  stone  wall  neatly  white- 
washed, upon  which  vines  of  various  kinds  are  trained. 

Returning  towards  the  house,  we  were  conducted  into 
the  flower  garden,  where  were  flowers  of  every  variety,  and 
rare  shrubs  evincing  the  taste  of  the  proprietor,  under  whose 
personal  superintendance  all  these  gardens  were  laid  out. 
On  our  way  to  the  consul's  office,  we  passed  through  a 
quadrangular  yard  in  the  rear  of  the  office,  surrounded 
upon  three  sides  by  large  storehouses  for  wine,  and  ship 
stores  of  various  kinds.  Under  the  hands  of  the  cooper 
were  several  huge  casks  made  of  Brazil  wood,  whose 
great  size  is  said  to  be  important  to  the  preservation  of 
this  wine.  Very  little  if  any  wine  is  made  in  Fayal ; 
that  consumed  on  the  island,  and  exported  to  foreign 
countries  is  imported  from  Pico,  upon  the  south  side  of 
which  the  grape  vine  is  extremely  prolific.  It  is  called 
"Pico  Madeira,"  and  is  very  similar  to  that  which  with 
us  bears  the  name  of  Madeira  wine. 

At  the  consul's  office,  we  met  the  master  of  the  whalei 
that  lay  at  anchor  in  the  harbor.  He  was  from  Wilming- 
ton, Delaware,  and  had  been  out  only  about  as  long  as 
ourselves,  but  had  already  met  with  a  sad  accident.  In 
an  attack  upon  a  whale,  the  line  as  it  shot  out  of  the 
boat,  became  entangled  around  one  of  the  men,  and 
instantly  carried  him  down,  and  the  poor  man  could  not 
be  rescued  until  life  was  extinct.  This  is  one  of  the 
dreadful  casualties  to  which  the  adventurous  life  of  the 
whaler  is  exposed.  Were  I  inclined  to  make  a  digres- 
sion, many  a  hair  breath  escape  from  death  or  mutila- 
tion might  be  related,  of  which  I  have  heard  from  the 
mouth  of  those  who  have  been  active  in  these  hazardous 
adventures. 

In  the  afternoon  we  were  invited  by  Mr.  Dabney  to 


-  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  ISLAND.      37 

dine  with  him  at  his  mother's  residence  in  the  upper  part 
of  the  town.  The  family  of  Dabney  is  the  most  promi- 
nent for  wealth  and  respectability  of  any  on  the  island ; 
and  upon  each  side  as  we  passed,  hats  and  caps  were 
raised  in  token  of  respect.  As  far  as  my  observation 
extended,  the  people  appeared  to  be  very  polite  and 
respectful  in  their  manners.  Gentlemen  in  meeting  or 
passing  one  another,  raise  their  hats  from  their  heads, 
and  with  a  graceful  wave  restore  them  to  their  places.  I 
was  told  by  Mr.  Dabney,  that  there  is  a  prodigious  wear 
of  hats  and  caps  among  all  classes,  in  the  way  of  saluta- 
tion. Whether  this  remark  is  to  be  taken  in  jest  or  in 
earnest,  I  thought  that  my  fellow  countrymen,  with  all 
their  notions  of  economy,  might  advantageously  adopt 
the  custom. 

The  elder  Mr.  D.  is  a  graduate  of  Harvard  University. 
It  was  delightful  to  meet  with  a  man  of  his  intelligence, 
especially  one  who  had  visited  many  places  in  America, 
with  which  I  was  familiar.  Those  that  never  move 
beyond  the  boundaries  of  their  own  country,  do  not  know 
how  welcome  is  the  face  of  a  countryman  in  a  foreign 
land. 

We  ascended  the  hill  upon  which  the  Hospital  stands, 
and  beyond  it  at  some  distance  above,  entered  a  gate 
leading  to  the  house,  through  an  alley  overshadowed  by 
the  Sycamore  tree,  a  great  rarity  at  these  islands.  The 
house  faces  the  eastward,  and  commands  a  magnificent 
prospect.  Directly  before  us,  the  towering  Peak  of  Pico, 
then  veiled  in  clouds,  limits  our  view  in  that  direction ; 
while  between  the  two  islands,  the  deep  blue  ocean  is 
seen  heaving  its  foam-capped  billows,  and  extending  to 
the  horizon  on  the  right.  The  grounds  about  the  house 
are  extensive,  and  still  more  beautiful  than  those  of  the 
consul.    From  the  piazza,  which  reaches  entirely  across 

4 


38  FAYAL. 

the-  front  of  the  house,  the  garden  with  its  orange  and 
lemon  trees,  whose  fruits  were  lying  neglected  upon  the 
ground,  and  its  verdant  shrubbery,  is  spread  out  before 
you. 

We  were  soon  ushered  in  to  dinner,  where  we  were 
introduced  to  Mrs.  Dabney,  mother  of  the  consul,  and  to 
several  other  ladies,  with  whom  we  spent  the  hour  very 
pleasantly.  The  dinner  was  excellent,  and  served  up 
in  good  style,  and  it  was  peculiarly  acceptable  to  me  after 
my  experience  of  sea  fare  during  the  past  month.  Im- 
mediately after  dinner,  we  bade  adieu  to  our  very  agree- 
able hosts,  and  hurried  aboard  the  North  America. 

During  our  absence,  the  various  articles  ordered  by 
the  captain  and  myself,  were  sent  on  board  in  the  con- 
sul's lighter.  Potatoes,  oranges,  apples,  wine,  fowls, 
eggs  &c,  can  be  purchased  here  at  a  much  cheaper  rate 
than  at  home.  Of  potatoes,  one  hundred  bushels  were 
added  to  about  an  equal  quantity  we  had  on  board. 
More  than  two  thousand  oranges  were  purchased  at  the 
rate  of  $3,00  per  thousand,  for  the  use  of  the  ship.  The 
Fayal  oranges  are  small,  and  rather  sour,  while  the 
apples  are  sweet  and  insipid. 

I  have  been  thus  particular  in  enumerating  our 
supplies,  to  exhibit  the  liberality  with  which  whalers 
recruit  wherever  they  stop  for  this  purpose. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  left  Fayal,  and  endeavored 
to  beat  out  to  sea,  but  failing  in  this  attempt,  as  there  was 
a  strong  current  setting  in  between  Fayal  and  Pico  from 
the  southward,  we  fell  off  before  the  wind,  with  the 
intention  of  circumnavigating  the  island.  At  sunset,  we 
were  driving  along  under  a  close  reefed  maintopsail  and 
foresail,  before  a  heavy  squall  off  the  land.  The  wind 
was  fresh  all  night,  but  the  next  day,  (Wednesday,)  we 
were  out  of  sight  of  land,  very  much  to  our  satisfaction, 


DEPARTURE.  39 

lying  to  in  a  gale  of  wind,  with  the  head  of  the  ship 
pointing  to  the  westward. 

On  Thursday,  (Nov.  14,)  with  a  fine  breeze  from  the 
west,  we  altered  our  course  for  the  south,  and  before 
night,  we  bade  adieu  to  the  hills  of  Fayal  and  the  Peak 
of  Pico,  in  sight  of  which  we  coasted  during  the  day. 

On  Friday  and  Saturday,  with  the  wind  astern,  we 
made  rapid  progress  southward,  enjoying  the  fruits  and 
"fresh  grub"  we  procured  at  the  islands.  On  Sunday 
and  to-day,  (Monday,)  the  wind  has  continued  to  blow 
steadily  from  the  N.  E.,  and  we  are  feeling  the  first 
impulses  of  the  trade  winds,  regular  breezes  within  the 
tropics,  which  blow  generally  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Equator  and  from  S.  E.  to  N.  W. 
on  the  south  side. 

This  is  the  season  of  the  year  for  the  unusual  display 
of  shooting  stars,  which  for  several  years  past,  since  the 
grand  exhibition  of  1833,  has  excited  so  much  attention 
among  astronomers.  Last  Wednesday  was  the  anniver- 
sary of  this  interesting  event,  and  I  had  been  looking 
forward  to  its  recurrence  with  no  ordinary  feelings  of 
interest,  particularly  as  it  had  been  enjoined  upon  me 
to  make  a  careful  record  of  what  facts  I  might  collect 
with  reference  to  this  phenomenon. 

For  several  days  previous,  the  officers  of  the  watch 
told  me  that  they  had  seen  an  unusual  number  of  very 
brilliant  meteors.  It  was  not  until  Wednesday,  that  I 
felt  myself  well  enough  to  look  out  for  meteors,  and  at 
an  early  hour  I  was  upon  deck,  in  eager  expectation. 
How  great  was  my  disappointment  on  finding  the  ship 
lying  to  in  a  gale  of  wind,  and  the  sky  overcast  with 
heavy  clouds. 

On  Thursday  morning,  I  again  made  the  attempt.  It 
was  a  beautiful  morning  with  a  fine  clear  air ;  but  the 


40  LUNAR    BOW. 

clouds  that  rose  in  quick  succession  and  sailed  across 
the  sky,  precluded  all  astronomical  observation.* 

Although  an  exhibition  of  this  wonderful  phenomenon 
has  been  denied  me,  I  have  often  pictured  to  myself  the 
scientific  excitement  that  has  undoubtedly  occurred  at 
New  Haven  ;  and  it  has  been  to  me  a  pleasing  thought 
that  though  far  away  from  home  and  friends,  our  minds 
are  united  in  the  same  grand  contemplations,  and  inter- 
ested in  the  recurrence  of  the  same  phenomenon. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  19.  We  are  making  rapid  progress 
southward,  and  have  arrived  on  the  borders  of  the 
tropics.  A  fine,  fresh  breeze  is  impelling  us  forward 
tempered  with  the  softness  of  a  milder  clime.  Last 
evening,  just  after  sunset,  I  saw  a  phenomenon  of  an 
entirely  novel  character  to  me.  A  bank  of  heavy  clouds 
rested  on  the  western  horizon,  and  on  its  front  a  beauti- 
ful rainbow  was  set  like  a  diadem.  The  moon  was 
shining  serenely  in  the  eastern  sky,  which  gave  origin 
to  this  phenomenon.  Captain  Richards  told  me  that  he 
had  very  frequently  seen  these  lunar  rainbows,  though 
not  so  often  as  the  solar,  but  sometimes  as  brilliant  even 
as  the  latter. 


*  The  Meteoric  Showers  of  November,  are  supposed  by  my  father  to  have 
ceased  after  1833.     ("  Letters  on  Astronomy,"  p.  350.) 


CHAPTER  III. 

SHIP  AND  SHIPMATES. 

Ship  North  America — Government  aboard  ship — Method  of 
ascertaining  the  latitude  and  longitude — eccentricities  of 
the  cook — Amusements  of  the  fore-castle — Etiquette  on 
board  ship — Employments  of  the  crew — Description  of  the 
several  parts  of  the  ship,  and  peculiarities  in  the  con- 
struction   OF    A    WHALER — ORDER    AND    CONTENTMENT     OF     THE 

crew — Library — Flying  fish. 

Before  proceeding  farther  in  my  narrative,  I  will 
introduce  the  reader  more  particularly  than  I  have  yet 
done,  to  my  ship  and  shipmates.  It  may  be  well  also  to 
explain  the  common  maneuvres  of  a  ship,  and  to  de- 
scribe its  several  parts  at  once,  rather  than  to  interrupt 
the  chain  of  my  narrative  by  being  obliged  to  stop  fre- 
quently to  render  myself  intelligible  to  the  uninitiated. 

The  North  America,  was  built  by  Stephen  Girard, 
Esq.,  and  was  originally  intended  for  a  letter  of  marque 
during  the  last  war  with  Great  Britain.  The  war 
terminating  before  she  was  completed,  she  was  applied 
to  the  merchant  service  and  sent  to  the  East  Indies. 
About  eight  years  since,  she  was  purchased  by  her 
present  owners,  and  converted  into  a  whaler.  She  is 
an  exceedingly  strong  vessel,  with  timbers  of  great  size, 
and  disposed  rather  more  closely  together  than  is  custom- 
ary in  most  ships  of  her  tonnage.  Her  frame  work  is 
entirely  of  live  oak,  the  best  material  for  shipbuilding  in 
the  world.  She  is  a  very  fast  sailer,  particularly  "  on 
the  wind,"  and  in  working  to  windward  has  always  had 
the  reputation  of  being  surpassed  by  no  square-rigged 


42  SHIP     AND     SHIPMATES. 

vessel.  Since  leaving  the  United  States,  we  have  beaten 
every  thing,  although  we  have  been  under  easy  sail  all 
the  time. 

Whalers  are  navigated  by  more  than  the  usual  number, 
of  men  for  vessels  of  their  tonnage.  The  North  America 
measures  386  tons,  and  fifteen  or  sixteen  men  "  all  told," 
would  be  considered  adequate  for  working  her  in  the 
merchant  service,  whereas  we  carry  thirty  one  men  for 
our  complement.  Each  boat  has  a  crew  of  four  men, 
besides  the  boatsteerer  and  the  officer  who  commands  her. 
As  we  carry  four  boats  in  service,  the  remainder  of  the 
crew  work  the  ship,  when  the  boats  are  in  pursuit  of 
whales.  Some  whale  ships  carry  five  boats  in  service, 
with  a  complement  of  forty  men,  and  some  but  three, 
with  a  proportionate  number. 

The  management  of  the  ship  rests  with  the  captain 
and  his  officers.  The  supreme  power  is  vested  in  the 
captain,  and  it  is  absolute,  extending  not  only  to  the 
sailing  of  the  ship  and  her  internal  economy,  but  also  to 
the  conduct  of  every  one  on  board.  He  exacts  the  most 
scrupulous  respect  and  deference  from  his  officers  and 
men,  and  quickly  reprimands  or  punishes  any  infraction 
of  the  etiquette,  which  long  usage  has  established.  He 
has  the  power  of  turning  an  officer  before  the  mast,  and 
substituting  one  of  the  men  in  his  place,  if  he  is  dissatis- 
fied with  his  conduct.  The  comfort  of  the  men  depends 
almost  entirely  upon  the  will  of  the  captain.  If  he  treats 
them  with  kindness,  their  lot  is  comparatively  happy ; 
if  he  is  tyrannical  and  abusive,  the  ship  becomes  a 
miniature  purgatory.  In  case  of  mutiny,  the  captain 
would  be  justified  at  law,  in  shooting  down  any  of  the 
mutineers,  or  in  using  any  coercive  measures  to  compel 
them  to  return  to  their  duty. 

The  captain  and  his  officers  take  observations  daily,  if 


SHIP    NORTH    AMERICA.  43 

the  weather  permits,  to  ascertain  the  position  of  the  ship, 
and  it  is  the  duty  of  the  former  to  mark  down  her  daily- 
progress  upon  the  chart,  a  large  scroll,  upon  which  the 
shores  of  continents,  islands,  rocks,  shoals  &c,  are  accu- 
rately laid  down  in  latitude  and  longitude.  A  ship's 
position  on  the  globe,  is  known  when  her  latitude  and 
longitude  are  known.  These  are  calculated  by  two 
methods, — by  dead  reckoning,  which  proceeds  upon 
trigonometrical  principles,  and  by  observation  of  the 
heavenly  bodies ;  the  latter  is  preferable,  as  it  is  the  most 
exact  in  its  calculations.  Finding  a  ship's  latitude  by 
observation  is  a  very  simple  problem.  The  Sun's  alti- 
tude at  noon  is  taken,  and  by  a  few  calculations  you 
have  the  latitude. 

The  longitude  is  obtained  by  taking  an  altitude  of  the 
Sun  before  noon  or  after  noon,  from  which  the  exact 
time  of  day  is  ascertained,  and  then  by  comparing  this 
time  with  the  time  at  Greenwich,  you  have  the  longitude. 
That  time  is  known  from  the  chronometer,  an  extremely 
accurate  timepiece  adjusted  to  correspond  to  it,  and 
carefully  wound  up  so  as  to  preserve  the  true  Green- 
wich time.  The  necessity  of  extreme  accuracy  in  the 
movement  of  these  instruments  will  be  readily  seen, 
when  it  is  recollected  that  an  inaccuracy  of  four  seconds 
will  make  an  error  of  a  mile  in  the  supposed  position  of 
the  ship.  Hence  it  becomes  very  unsafe  to  rely  upon  a 
chronometer  entirely,  and  the  prudent  navigator  takes 
other  observations  every  little  while  to  rectify  his  chro- 
nometer j  for  if  he  can  only  ascertain  its  rate  of  going  or 
amount  of  error,  he  can  depend  upon  it  without  hazard. 
In  this  case,  he  resorts  to  the  more  careful  and  delicate 
observation  of  measuring  the  distance  between  the  moon 
and  the  sun  by  the  sextant,  while  his  officers  are  taking 
altitudes  of  the  Sun  and  Moon  at  the  same  instant,  and 


44  SHIP    AND    SHIPMATES. 

some  one  is  noting  the  time  by  the  chronometer.  From 
these  observations,  the  position  of  the  ship  is  ascertained 
by  two  independent  methods,  and  the  correctness  of  the 
chronometer  tested.  The  astronomical  instruments 
made  use  of  are  the  quadrant  and  sextant,  the  former 
used  on  common  occasions  for  determining  the  latitude, 
and  the  latter  when  great  delicacy  of  observation  is 
requisite. 

The  captain  stands  no  watch,  but  exercises  a  super- 
vision over  all,  to  see  that  they  do  their  duty.  Several 
times  during  the  night,  the  officers  make  report  to  him 
of  the  progress  of  the  ship,  the  appearance  of  the  weather, 
and  any  unusual  occurrence.  The  captain  also  presides 
at  table,  and  gives  orders  to  the  steward  about  every 
thing  that  comes  upon  the  table,  as  well  as  about  the 
distribution  of  provisions  among  the  ship's  company.  He 
seldom  has  any  conversation  with  the  men ;  all  his 
commands  are  issued  to  them  through  his  officers. 

The  most  arduous  duties  aboard  the  ship,  devolve 
upon  the  first  mate.  It  is  his  duty  to  attend  to  the 
reception  of  all  the  stores  that  are  put  aboard  the  ship, 
and  he  also  keeps  the  log-book,  a  kind  of  Journal  ir>  which 
are  registered  the  progress  of  the  ship  every  hour,  her 
position  in  latitude  and  longitude,  remarks  on  the 
weather,  &c.  When  all  hands  are  called,  he  takes  his 
station  with  his  watch  upon  the  forecastle,  and  manages 
the  head  sails,  lets  go  the  anchor,  and  sees  that  every 
thing  "alow  and  aloft,"  is  "shipshape."  The  second 
mate  with  the  starboard  watch,  is  stationed  in  the  waist 
of  the  ship  to  work  the  main  and  after  sails,  while  the 
third  mate  belongs  on  the  forecastle.  The  second  mate 
of  a  merchantman  is  not  usually  respected  very  highly ; 
but  the  second  and  third  mates  of  a  whaler,  having 
another  grade  of  rank  intervening  between  themselves 


SHIP     NORTH     AMERICA.  45 

and  the  foremost  hands,  are  treated  with  much  greater 
deference. 

The  next  in  rank  are  the  boatsteerers,  of  whom  one  is 
attached  to  each  boat,  whose  duty  it  is  to  keep  the  boat 
and  all  her  appurtenances  in  complete  order.  They  are 
also  frequently  sent  off  in  charge  of  their  boats  to  execute 
some  command  for  the  captain  or  officers,  and  are  very 
ambitious  to  make  a  good  appearance  before  the  other 
men,  or  else  they  will  not  be  respected.  All  whaleships 
carry  a  cooper,  a  carpenter,  and  a  blacksmith,  whose 
respective  duties  will  be  understood  without  my  descend- 
ing to  particulars. 

Our  crew  is  composed  of  representatives  from  a  variety 
of  nations.  Besides  the  Americans,  there  are  three  Indians, 
one  Englishman,  six  Portuguese,  and  several  colored 
gentry,  that  claim  to  be  Americans.  One  of  the  Indians 
bears  the  renowned  name  of  John  Uncas,  and  is  a  lineal 
descendent  of  the  celebrated  Sachem  of  the  Mohegans. 
He  is  a  very  active  intelligent  boy,  and  will  become  a 
first  rate  seaman. 

Our  cook  and  steward  belong  to  the  ebony  race  ;  the 
former,  «  Mr.  Freeman,"  as  he  is  often  designated,  is  the 
most  comical  character  I  ever  met  with,  and  I  cannot 
refrain  from  adding  a  tribute  to  his  memory,  as  he  is  the 
fountain  of  all  the  fun  and  good  humor  aboard  the  ship. 
In  this  respect,  he  sustains  a  relation  to  the  ship  similar 
to  that  of  the  jester  in  a  feudal  establishment ;  and  although 
the  captain  and  officers  would  consider  it  impairing 
their  dignity  to  descend  to  any  familiarity  with  the  men, 
yet  "Spot,"  is  regarded  as  the  privileged  character  on 
board,  and  the  discipline  is  not  relaxed  by  any  amuse- 
ment at  his  expence,  which  the  captain  and  officers 
choose  to  indulge  in.  He  receives  a  serio-comic  punish- 
ment from  the  captain  and  officers  every  day,  when  his 


46  SHIP    AND    SHIPMATES. 

grimaces  and  exclamations  are  so  ludicrous  that  I  am 
sometimes  almost  faint  with  laughing.  We  call  him 
down  into  the  cabin  now  and  then,  and  give  him  presents, 
to  amuse  ourselves  with  his  elegant  bows  and  expressive 
exclamations  of  satisfaction.  He  possesses  all  the  negro 
accomplishments  in  full  perfection,  embellishing  his 
conversation  by  the  use  of  language  in  all  the  variations 
of  which  it  is  susceptible.  He  can  sing  a  song,  play 
upon  the  "fiddle,"  dance  various  jigs  "on  the  light 
phantastic  toe,"  and  roll  up  the  white  of  his  eye — all  in 
the  genuine  negro  style.  I  have  witnessed  the  exhibi- 
tions of  many  extravaganza  performers,  but  I  think  they 
were  surpassed  by  our  cook  with  his  various  appella- 
tions of  "  Spot,"  "  Jumbo,"  «  Congo,"  «  Skillet,"  "  Kidney 
foot,"  &c.  Among  his  other  good  qualities,  he  is  extreme- 
ly polite,  and  bids  me  "good  morning,"  with  a  very 
graceful  bow ;  and  if  I  consult  him  about  the  weather, 
when  the  clouds  indicate  a  favorable  change,  he  takes  a 
very  wise  look  around  in  every  direction,  and  predicts, 
that  "  we  are  going  to  have  some  very  plausible  weather, 
so  far  as  the  aspection  of  the  sky  would  seem  to  elucidate" 
He  is  frequently  summoned  into  the  cabin,  and  soon 
makes  his  appearance  on  deck,  with  his  capacious  mouth 
distended  to  its  utmost  limits,  with  oranges,  apples,  and 
other  things,  which  have  been  thrust  into  it. 

The  steward  takes  care  of  the  ship's  small  stores,  and 
distributes  the  provisions  according  to  a  bill  of  fare  given 
to  him  by  the  captain.  His  appearance  also  partakes  of 
the  comical,  especially  when  he  waits  upon  table  in  the 
cabin,  when  his  lank,  ebony  visage,  and  long  limbs, 
remind  me  of  the  India  Rubber  men  I  have  seen  in  shoe- 
maker's shops  at  home.  He  is  a  very  important  person- 
age among  the  men,  however,  especially  with  those  who 
are  looking  anxiously  for  a  stray  bit  from  the  cabin  table. 


SHIP     NORTH     AMERICA.  47 

The  cook  with  his  "  fiddle,"  and  the  steward  with  his 
tambourine,  hold  musical  soirees  on  the  forecastle  every 
evening  in  pleasant  weather.  Whatever  may  be  thought 
of  the  performances  of  these  sable  musicians,  they  are 
sufficient  to  excite  the  activity  of  all  that  are  disposed  to 
dance.  There  is  a  mysterious  connection  between  the 
vibration  of  a  fiddle  string  and  the  vibrations  of  the 
heels.  For  as  soon  as  the  sound  of  the  violin  is  heard, 
then  commences  a  general  patter  upon  deck  of  all  the 
excited.  The  dancing  of  sailors  does  not  require  a 
knowledge  of  the  fashionable  figures ;  all  that  is  neces- 
sary, is  to  keep  time  with  the  feet,  and  to  beat  the  deck 
with  a  suitable  degree  of  vehemence.  Simple  as  this 
sport  may  appear,  it  serves  happily  to  diversify  a  sea 
life,  and  I  frequently  go  forward  to  amuse  myself  with 
the  curious  maneuvres  exhibited,  and  the  good  humor 
that  prevails.  At  eight  bells,  (eight  o'clock,)  all  "  sky- 
larking," or  amusement  instantly  ceases,  and  all  hands 
disperse,  some  to  their  berths,  and  others  to  their  duties 
upon  deck. 

The  men  as  I  have  before  said,  are  divided  into  two 
watches,  the  larboard  and  the  starboard,  who  keep  watch 
upon  deck  alternately  for  four  hours  at  a  time.  The 
watches  are  regulated  by  the  bell,  which  is  struck  four 
times  at  every  half  watch,  when  the  wheel  is  relieved 
as  well  as  the  look-outs  at  the  mast-heads ;  and  eight 
times  when  the  watch  is  out,  and  the  other  half  of  the 
crew  come  upon  deck.  In  most  ships  I  believe  it  is 
customary  to  strike  the  bell  every  half  hour.  There  are 
certain  forms  of  respect  that  are  never  deviated  from 
aboard  all  vessels  where  discipline  is  observed.  The 
foremost  hands  never  come  aft,  unless  they  have  busi- 
ness which  calls  them  there,  and  then  they  always  take 
the  lee  side  of  the  ship,  and  any  "  sky-larking"  upon  the 


48  SHIPAND    SHIPMATES. 

quarter  deck,  would  be  severely  punished.  If  a  sailor 
has  occasion  to  go  into  the  cabin  upon  any  duty,  he  is 
careful  to  leave  his  hat  upon  deck. 

It  is  an  important  object  to  keep  the  men  always 
employed  during  their  watch  upon  deck,  and  their 
duties  are  performed  with  regularity  from  day  to  day. 
At  daylight,  commences  the  scrubbing  of  decks  and 
washing  down  fore  and  aft.  This  is  done  by  the  watch 
upon  deck,  who  with  their  heavy  "  scrub  brooms,"  and 
common  brooms,  wash  and  scrub  the  decks  until  they 
are  perfectly  clean.  Sometimes  soap  and  sand  are  used, 
as  often  as  once  every  day  or  two.  When  this  duty  is 
completed,  the  mastheads  are  manned,  and  at  half  past 
seven  o'clock,  breakfast  is  served  up,  immediately  after 
which,  the  carpenter,  blacksmith  and  cooper,  are  engaged 
in  their  respective  avocations,  while  the  watch  is  em- 
ployed upon  an  old  sail,  picking  oakum,  making  spun 
yarn,  (fee.  No  one  is  allowed  to  be  idle,  and  every  thing 
proceeds  with  a  regularity,  which  people  in  general,  from 
a  misconceived  antipathy,  are  not  willing  to  credit  in  a 
whaleman. 

As  was  originally  proposed,  we  will  now  describe  the 
different  parts  of  the  ship,  and  the  peculiar  construction 
of  a  whaleship.  In  the  accompanying  diagram  is  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  North  America,  on  the  wind,  with  her 
larboard  tacks  aboard,*  and  the  reader  is  requested  to 
compare  the  following  description  with  the  picture. 
From  the  bow  of  the  vessel,  projects  the  bowsprit,  from 
the  extremity  of  which  extends  the  gibboom  and  flying 


*  The  reason  assigned  by  Jack,  for  giving  the  pronoun  relating  to  a  ship, 
the  feminine  gender,  is  rather  amusing,  and  somewhat  discourteous  to  the 
fairer  portion  of  creation.  Says  Jack,  "  the  reason  why  we  call  a  ship  a  she, 
is  because  her  rigging  costs  more  than  her  hull ;"  an  opinion,  to  the  truth 
of  which,  I  hope  I  shall  not  be  considered  as  certifying. 


SHIP     NORTH     AMERICA.  49 

gibboom  in  one  stick.  The  foremast  rises  upon  the  bow, 
the  mainmast  in  the  middle,  and  the  mizzenmast  in 
the  aftermost  part  of  the  vessel.  The  supports  of  the 
masts  upon  each  side,  are  denominated  swifters  and 
shrouds,  and  unite  in  the  tops,  semicircular  landing 
places,  about  nine  feet  wide,  at  right  angles  to  the  fore 
and  mainmasts.  That  which  corresponds  to  them  on 
the  mizzenmast  is  called  the  mizzen  cross  trees.  The 
next  upper  divisions  of  the  mast  are  called  topmasts,  as 
the  foretopmast,  &c.  They  are  supported  like  the  lower 
masts  by  headstays,  shrouds  and  backstays.  The  next 
upper  divisions  are  the  top  gallant  masts,  and  the  next 
the  royal  masts,  terminating  in  a  ball  called  the  royal 
truck.  The  landing  places  above  the  tops  are  denomi- 
nated cross  trees,  and  are  named  from  the  divisions  of  the 
mast  to  which  they  belong,  as  the  foretopmast-crosstrees, 
the  maintop -gallant  crosstrees.  The  men  sent  aloft  to  look 
out  for  whales,  are  stationed  in  the  top  gallant- crosstrees. 
Upon  the  extremity  of  the  flying  gibboom  rises  the 
flying  gib ;  next  to  this,  and  nearer  the  vessel  is  the 
gib,  and  next  comes  the  foretopmast- stay  sail,  a  small 
triangular  sail,  used  principally  when  the  ship  is  "  lying 
to"  in  a  gale  of  wind.  Upon  the  foremast  are  the  foresail 
or  forecourse,  foretopsail,  for  etop  gallant- sail,  and  some 
ships  carry  a  foreroyal.  Upon  the  mainmast,  are  the 
mainsail  or  maincourse,  &c.  Ships  sometimes  carry  a 
sail  above  the  royal,  called  the  skysail,  and  sometimes, 
though  rarely,  a  sail  above  this  called  a  moonsail.  These 
"light  kites,"  however,  are  of  but  little  use,  and  it  would 
be  much  better  to  enlarge  the  royals  and  dispense  with 
them  altogether.  Vessels,  in  going  with  the  wind  free, 
frequently  carry  temporary  sails  upon  one  or  both  sides 
of  their   topsails,  topgallant-sails,  and   royals,  called 


50  SHIP     AND    SHIPMATES. 

studding  sails.  The  largest  sail  upon  the  mizzenmast 
is  the  spanker ;  above  which  is  the  gaft-topsail ;  between 
the  mizzenmast  and  mainmast,  are  seen  two  trian- 
gular sails,  the  lower  one  of  which  is  named  the  mizzen 
staysail,  and  the  upper  the  mizzen  topmast-staysail. 
There  are  several  other  sails  that  ships  sometimes  spread, 
though  rarely,  which  I  will  just  enumerate,  as,  the  gib 
of  gibs ',  gib  topsail^  fore  and  main  spenser,  ringtail  and 
water  sail. 

The  yards,  are  the  spars  upon  which  the  square  rigging 
is  distended,  and  receive  their  names  from  the  sails  "  bent" 
upon  them ;  they  are  brought  to  any  required  angle  with 
the  length  of  the  ship  by  means  of  the  braces  attached  to 
the  yard  arm,  and  worked  upon  deck.  The  halliards, 
runners  and  ties,  elevate  the  yards  upon  the  upper  masts. 
The  sheets  are  those  chains  or  ropes  that  draw  down  the 
ends  of  the  sails  to  their  proper  places.  The  reef  points 
are  short  ropes  about  two  feet  long,  arranged  in  rows 
upon  each  side  of  the  larger  sails,  and  are  used  to  dimin- 
ish their  size.  There  are  in  the  topsails  three  rows  of 
reef  points,  and  a  ship  is  said  to  be  under  single,  double 
or  close  reefed  topsails,  according  as  one  or  two  or  three 
reefs  are  taken  in  these  sails.  A  sail  is  clewed  up,  when 
the  extremities  of  its  foot  or  lower  edge  are  drawn  up  to 
the  middle  of  the  yard.  There  are  many  ropes  used  in 
working  the  sails,  such  as  clewlines,  buntlines,  bowlines, 
and  reef  tackles,  which  it  would  be  tedious  to  explain.  A 
ship  is  said  to  be  Hin  stays,"  when  the  wind  is  ahead,  in 
a  line  with  the  masts,  when  after  receiving  the  wind  on 
one  side,  she  is.  endeavoring  to  come  around  on  the  other. 
The  wind  is  "  abeam,"  when  at  right  angles  with  the 
length  of  the  vessel ;  "  upon  the  quarter,"  when  it  comes 
aft,  but  not  in  a  line  with  the  length  of  the  ship. 


SHIP     NORTH     AMERICA.  51 

We  will  now  come  down  from  aloft  upon  deck.* 
Between  the  mainmast  and  foremast  are  the  tryworks, 
large  furnaces  built  of  bricks,  and  containing  two 
immense  iron  pots,  for  trying  out  the  oil  from  the  blub- 
ber. The  flames  and  smoke  escape  through  several 
openings  in  the  top  of  the  works.  Between  the  main- 
mast and  mizzenmast  is  the  "  galley,"  a  little  kennel  large 
enough  for  the  cook  and  his  stove,  but  a  mystery  to  all 
ambitious  housekeepers  with  capacious  kitchens,  how  so 
much,  and  such  a  variety  can  be  cooked  in  so  small  a 
compass.  There  sits  Jumbo,  in  sooty  dignity,  superin- 
tending the  steaming  coppers,  and  reflecting  upon  the 
responsibility  of  his  station,  while  the  hot  liquids  are 
scattered  around,  and  perchance  fly  upon  his  unshod 
extremities,  as  the  ship  rolls  heavily  in  a  cross  sea.  In 
some  ships,  the  galley  is  set  forward  of  the  foremast. 
Above  the  galley  is  a  framework  of  spars,  called  "  bearers," 
upon  which  the  spare  boats  are  turned  bottom  upwards. 

In  the  aftermost  part  of  the  ship,  are  the  ivheel  and 
the  binnacle,  containing  two  compasses,  by  which  the 
course  of  the  ship  is  regulated. 

Abaft  the  mizzenmast  is  the  companion  way  leading 
into  the  cabin,  appropriated  exclusively  for  the  captain 
and  his  officers.  The  cabin  contains  six  staterooms,  a 
storeroom  and  a  pantry.  A  state-room  aboard  a  ship, 
places  a  man  in  rather  contracted  quarters.  One  very 
soon  becomes  used  to  it,  and  I  feel  as  contented  in  my 
little  bandbox,  measuring  not  more  than  six  feet  one  way 
and  four  feet  the  other,  and  receiving  light  through 
thick  ground  glass  set  in  the  deck,  as  I  should  in  a 
palace  ;  and  I  can  sleep  as  comfortably  in  my  berth  with 


*  Looking  towards  the  head  of  the  ship,  the  right  hand  side  is  called  the 
starboard,  and  the  left  hand  the  larboard. 


52  SHIP    AND    SHIPMATES. 

its  coffin-like  dimensions,  as  upon  the  finest  bed :  much 
better  too,  for  I  am  now  prevented  from  rolling  about  in 
the  pitching  and  tossing  of  the  ship.  Just  forward  of  the 
mizzenmast  is  the  steerage,  covered  over  with  a  box 
having  a  slide  upon  it,  called  the  " booby-hatch"  a  pecu- 
liar designation  not  applicable  to  those  who  live  in  the 
steerage,  as  they  strenuously  contend  ;  for  here  are  loca- 
ted the  boatsteerers,  carpenter,  cooper  and  blacksmith. 

In  some  ships,  all  the  steerage  men  take  their  meals 
in  the  cabin  after  the  captain  and  officers  have  had 
theirs,  but  it  is  not  the  case  with  us. 

Forward  of  the  foremast,  is  the  forecastle,  a  receptacle 
for  sailors,  where  twenty- one  men  are  stowed  away,  in 
a  manner  mysterious  to  those  who  have  never  visited 
this  part  of  the  ship.  The  forecastle  of  the  North  Amer- 
ica t  aiUCh  larger  than  those  cf  most  ships  of  her  ton- 
nage, and  is  scrubbed  out  regularly  every  morning. 
There  is  a  table  and  a  lamp,  so  that  the  men  have  con- 
veniences for  reading  and  writing  if  they  choose  to  avail 
themselves  of  them ;  and  many  of  them  are  practising 
writing  every  day  or  learning  how  to  write.  Their  sta- 
tionery they  purchase  out  of  the  ship's  stores,  and  then 
come  to  one  of  the  officers  or  myself  for  copies,  or  to 
have  their  pens  mended.  When  not  otherwise  occupied, 
they  draw  books  from  the  library  in  the  cabin,  and  read; 
or  if  they  do  not  know  how,  get  some  one  to  teach  them. 
We  have  a  good  library  on  board,  consisting  of  about 
two  hundred  volumes,  and  a  good  proportion  of  sperm 
whalers  are  also  provided  with  them.  Sailors,  as  a  gen- 
eral thing,  are  ready  to  avail  themselves  of  any  opportu- 
nities for  mental  improvement ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  the 
efforts  of  the  benevolent  in  supplying  ships  with  good 
books  and  tracts,  will  be  attended  with  great  success. 
Notwithstanding  the  immorality  that  is  to  be  so  much 


THE    SLOP   CHEST.  53 

deplored  among  seamen,  they  have  generally  a  respect 
for  religion  and  its  observances.  It  is  very  gratifying  to 
take  a  look  at  the  forecastle  upon  the  Sabbath  in  pleasant 
weather.  Perfect  stillness  prevails  aboard  the  ship ;  no 
loud  talking  is  allowed,  while  the  "  people,"  after  wash- 
ing and  dressing  themselves  neatly,  are  seated  around 
the  forecastle,  or  upon  the  windlass,  poring  over  the  Bi- 
ble or  some  tract.* 

We  have  a  good  medicine  chest  on  board,  which  I 
believe  to  be  the  case  with  a  majority  of  whale  ships. 
To  provide  for  wear  and  tear  of  clothes  during  the  long 
voyage,  a  large  assortment  of  garments  of  every  kind  is 
put  on  board,  to  be  sold  to  the  men  as  they  may  need,  at 
a  slight  advance  upon  the  original  cost,  after  the  expira- 
tion of  one  year  from  the  time  of  sailing.  These  are 
denominated  "  slop  chest "  clothes.  Were  perfectly  fair 
dealing  observed  in  all  cases  towards  the  men  in  the 
management  of  the  "slop  chest,"  one  of  the  most  prolific 
sources  of  discontent  aboard  whale  ships,  would  be  en- 
tirely removed.  The  men  as  they  ship  for  the  voyage, 
are  told  that  they  need  not  trouble  themselves  about  any 
preparations,  as  every  thing  they  may  require,  can  be 
purchased  out  of  the  "slop  chest"  after  they  get  to  sea. 
Upon  applying  for  necessary  clothing  after  they  are  sep- 
arated hundreds  of  miles  from  home,  they  find  that  eve- 
ry article  they  ask  for,  is  indeed  in  the  slop  chest — but 
to  have  it,  they  are  to  be  charged  a  most  exorbitant  profit 
on  the  first  cost,  so  that  all  their  hard  earned  wages  are 


*  My  situation  as  passenger,  enables  me  to  extend  to  the  crew  many  acts 
of  kindness  which  the  stern  discipline  of  the  ship  would  hardly  permit  in  an 
officer,  and  their  gratitude  is  manifested  by  their  avidity  to  oblige  me  when- 
ever any  occasion  presents  itself,  and  to  exhibit  other  marks  of  regard. 
Whenever  in  my  rambles  about  the  ship,  I  go  forward,  their  looks  indicate 
that  I  am  no  unwelcome  visiter. 

5* 


m 


54  SHIP    AND    SHIPMATES. 

to  be  swallowed  up  to  enrich  those  that  have  practised 
so  pitiful  a  plan  of  fraud  and  oppression.  Let  me  res- 
pectfully suggest  to  all  those  interested  in  fitting  out 
whale  ships,  that  upright  dealing  in  the  disposal  of  slop 
chest-goods,  will  ensure  a  far  greater  profit  in  the  legit- 
imate results  of  the  voyage,  than  any  exorbitant  gains 
which  may  be  realized  in  taking  advantage  of  the  neces- 
sities of  the  sailor. 

The  boats  are  hoisted  up  by  means  of  davits,  ("  da- 
vies  ")  curved  timbers  upon  which  the  boat  tackles  are 
worked,  and  are  supported  by  cranes  swinging  under- 
neath them.  The  ivindlass  is  a  powerful  apparatus  in 
the  forward  part  of  a  ship  for  hoisting  the  anchors  or 
for  any  other  purpose  requiring  the  exertion  of  great 
power;  it  revolves  horizontally,  worked  by  long  levers 
called  handspikes,  and  is  movable  in  one  direction,  but 
immovable  in  the  other. 

Thursday,  Nov.  28.  We  are  now  within  five  degrees 
of  the  equator,  a  latitude  all  over  the  ocean  visited  with 
heavy  squalls  of  deluging  rain,  with  baffling  winds,  and 
oppressive  heat.  This  region,  known  to  the  sailor,  by 
the  name  of  uthe  doldrums"  extends  from  five  to  eight 
degrees  north  latitude,  the  interval  between  the  trade 
winds,  and  ships  are  sometimes  detained  here  for  twelve 
or  fourteen  days  in  the  most  disagreeable  position  imagi- 
nable. For  a  week  past  the  weather  has  been  most  de- 
lightful with  a  fine  fresh  breeze  from  the  eastward. 

Flying  fish  are  found  upon  the  deck  of  the  ship  almost 
every  morning,  having  flown  aboard  during  the  night. 
The  flying  fish  is  a  beautiful  silvery  fish,  having  delicate, 
gauze-like  wings,  that  appear  like  enlarged  fins,  with 
which  he  rises  from  the  sea  and  skims  along  with  a  kind 
of  tremulous  vibration,  to  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty 
yards  frequently,  when  his  wings  beginning  to  grow  dry, 


FLYING    FISH.  55 

compel  him  to  fall  into  the  ocean  again.  Flying  fish  in 
their  flight  near  a  ship,  are  often  taken  in  a  current  of 
air,  and  drawn  aboard,  when  they  fall  upon  her  deck, 
particularly  during  the  night,  and  this  is  a  more  frequent 
occurrence  in  rough  than  in  calm  weather.  They  vary 
very  much  in  size,  from  those  which  are  not  larger  than 
insects,  and  hardly  discernible,  to  those  that  measure 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches  in  length.  The  larger  kind  are 
furnished  with  an  additional  pair  of  wings,  located  just 
above  the  ventral  fin,  but  smaller  than  those  towards  the 
head. 

For  a  long  time  flying  fish  were  considered  as  fabu- 
lous animals  by  those  who  had  not  been  over  the  blue 
waters,  and  there  are  some  living  "  remote  from  cities," 
that  are  still  incredulous  about  their  existence. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

WHALING  SCENES. 


Attack  and  capture  of  whales — General  appearance  of  the 

sperm  whale great  size  of  the  respiratory  organs  and 

vascular  system — sympathy  of  cetaceous  animals  for  each 
other — Inaccurate  representations  of  the  whale — Nature 
of  blubber — "  cutting  in  " — perils  attending  the  process— 
Spermaceti — "  Trying  out." 


Monday,  Dec.  2.  Yesterday  was  a  great  day  aboard 
the  North  America,  as  it  was  our  first  initiation  into  the 
appropriate  business  of  the  voyage.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  a  whale  we  saw  a  few  days  before  reaching 
Fayalj  which  proved  to  be  the  Jin-back,  a  species  very 
rarely  taken  by  the  whaler,  we  have  not  seen  the  spout 
of  a  whale  since  leaving  the  United  States,  a  period  of  a 
month  and  a  half.  For  the  greater  part  of  this  time  the 
look-outs  have  not  been  stationed  at  mast-head,  owing  to 
the  rough  weather  we  have  constantly  encountered. 

About  eight  o'clock  yesterday  morning,  the  ship  was 
thrown  into  confusion  by  the  welcome  cry  "  There  she 
blo-o-o-ws,"  sounded  several  times  from  mast-head. 
"  Where  away?"  was  asked  by  the  captain  on  deck. 
"  Right  ahead — a  school  of  sperm  whales."  And  indeed, 
about  a  mile  off,  a  frequent  succession  of  mist-like  puffs, 
rising  above  the  sea,  to  the  height  of  five  or  six  feet,  indi- 
cated our  proximity  to  a  school  of  sperm  whales.  Every 
one  hurried  upon  deck  at  the  first  sound,  and  every  thing 
was  in  a  state  of  commotion.  "  Come  down  from  aloft — 
haul  up  the  mainsail  and  spanker — helm  down — back 


' 


ATTACK    AND    CAPTURE    OF   WHALES.  57 

the  maintopsail — clear  away  your  boats — lower  away 
starboard  and  larboard  !"  shouted  the  captain  in  a  breath  ; 
and  in  an  instant  the  ship  was  lying  motionless  upon 
the  sea.  A  rattling  of  boat-tackle-falls,  several  plunges 
in  quick  succession,  and  the  fleet  boats  glided  swiftly  over 
the  billows,  with  their  long  oars  flashing  in  the  morning 
sun.  In  a  few  moments,  after  surrounding  the  spot 
where  the  whales  were  last  seen,  they  "hove  up,"  to 
await  their  re-appearance,  while  those  of  us  on  board 
were  watching  with  breathless  interest  for  the  whales  to 
"come  up."  In  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  "there  she 
blows,"  "  there  she  blows  !"  was  quickly  repeated  by  half 
a  dozen  eager  spectators.  Their  re-appearance  was  soon 
perceived  by  the  boats,  and  pursuit  was  instantly  given 
by  one  or  two  of  them  in  the  most  cautious  manner,  lest 
the  whales  becoming  "  gallied"  or  alarmed,  should  take 
to  flight. 

"  Captain's  boat's  after  them— there  he  stands  ready  to 
give  it  to  him — don't  miss,  Tom,  (the  name  of  a  boat-steer- 
er,)  don't  for  gracious  sake — oh  dear,  he's  hove  up — there 
goes  flukes — white  waters — Mr.  Babcock's  boat  goes  on 
to  them — there  he  gives  it  to  him,  hurrah  !" — Such  were 
some  of  the  exclamations  from  the  forecastle.  "One 
boat's  fast !"  shouted  the  ship-keeper  who  had  gone  aloft. 
As  I  watched  the  boats  through  the  spyglass,  I  saw  one 
of  them  running  swiftly  through  the  water  with  its  oars 
"  peaked,"  i.  e.,  with  their  blades  elevated  high  up  upon 
each  side — now  darting  in  one  direction,  then  in  another 
— then  stationary;  until  in  a  few  minutes  the  poor 
animal  exhausted  with  pain,  and  the  violence  "of  his 
efforts,  comes  up  to  breathe,  when  he  receives  another 
harpoon,  and  several  strokes  of  the  lance,  and  goes  down 
again,  lashing  the  sea  furiously  in  his  agony.  "  Another 
boat's  fast !"  shouted  the  lookout  from  mast  head,  and 


58  WHALING    SCENES. 

the  welcome  news  was  received  with  a  shout  of  enthu- 
siasm by  all  on  deck.  "There  he  carts  him!"  as  the 
boat  was  hurried  over  the  waves  with  a  long  line  of 
foam  after  her — "spade  his  flukes — touch  him  in  the 
tender  spot !" 

Meanwhile,  the  whale  that  had  been  first  struck, 
exhausted  with  pain  and  the  loss  of  blood,  which  tinged 
the  sea  of  a  crimson  hue  in  his  wake,  begins  to  exhibit 
signs  of  giving  up  the  contest.  He  runs  wildly  around, 
lashing  the  sea  with  his  flukes,  and  throwing  himself 
out  of  water,  while  a  crimson  spray  is  blown  into  the 
air,  telling  that  he  is  "  in  his  flurry,"  or  in  the  agonies 
of  death.  The  boat  to  which  he  was  fast,  drew  off  to  a 
respectful  distance  to  await  the  fearful  struggle,  which 
terminated  in  a  few  minutes,  and  the  huge  animal 
"  turned  up"  or  rolled  over  on  his  side,  now  harmless, 
the  spoil  of  his  daring  captors. 

When  there  are  other  whales  in  sight,  the  captured 
whale  is  "waifed,"  i.  e.,  a  rod  of  four  or  five  feet  in 
length,  bearing  a  little  flag,  is  inserted  into  his  carcass, 
which  is  now  abandoned,  and  pursuit  is  given  in  another 
direction.  As  the  whale  is  a  dark  object,  and  rises  but 
little  above  the  surface  of  the  sea,  he  is  not  readily 
discerned  without  this  precautionary  measure. 

In  the  course  of  half  an  hour,  the  second  whale  ft  turned 
up,"  and  the  boats  abandoning  the  chase  after  the  others, 
returned  to  the  ship,  towing  the  captured  whales. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  whale,  is  that  of  a 
huge  flabby  mass,  rising  but  little  above  the  surface  of 
the  sea,  and  bending  in  conformity  with  the  undulations 
of  the  waves.  The  head  and  the  back  of  the  sperm 
whale  are  nearly  in  a  line  as  far  as  the  hump,  a  thick 
prominence,  rising  above  the  ridge  of  the  back.  The 
head,  in  bulk,  is  nearly  one  third  of  the  entire  animal, 


i 


i  w  "•"•i; 


DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    WHALE.  59 

and  is  very  angular  in  its  outline  with  a  small  receding 
under  jaw,  set  with  firm  short  teeth,  forty  two  in  number, 
slightly  curved  inwards,  at  an  interval  of  two  or  three 
inches  apart,  while  there  are  no  teeth  in  the  upper  jaw. 
At  the  upper  angle  of  his  head,  is  a  cleft,  closed  at  will, 
from  which  the  confined  air  of  the  lungs  is  blown  out 
whenever  the  animal  comes  upon  top  of  water,  con- 
densed in  a  white  mist,  that  vanishes  in  an  instant. 
From  the  hump,  the  ridge  of  the  back  descends  in 
irregular  curves  frequently,  until  it  reaches  the  flukes^ 
or  tail.  The  flukes  are  the  most  formidable  weapon 
of  the  whale.  Unlike  those  of  fish,  which  are  set  verti- 
cally, the  flukes  of  all  whales  are  horizontal:  at  their 
union  with  the  main  body  of  the  animal,  the  juncture 
is  very  small,  and  whenever  a  whale  is  violent  in  his 
movements,  a  few  strokes  of  the  spade  across  the  ten- 
dons of  the  flukes,  passing  along  here,  will  very  soon 
reduce  him  to  submission.  The  outline  of  the  lower 
part  of  the  animal  is  slightly  undulatory,  terminating  in 
the  jaw,  which  runs  to  a  point.  There  are  two  side  fins 
or  "swimming  paws,"  short  and  thick,  at  a  distance 
from  the  extremity  of  the  head,  of  about  one  third  the 
length  of  the  animal.  They  are  supposed  by  some  to 
assist  the  animal  in  balancing  himself,  as  they  are  too 
small  to  be  of  very  material  service  in  moving  forwards; 
in  many  other  species  of  the  whale,  the  side  fins  are 
much  longer  than  in  the  cachalot  or  sperm.  The  eye  is 
exceedingly  small,  not  larger  than  that  of  an  ox,  and  is 
located  in  a  prominence  in  the  back  part  of  the  head. 
The  ear*  is  a  funnel  shaped  cavity  situated  between 
the  eye  and  the  lower  jaw,  of  so  minute  a  size,  as  hardly 
to  admit  one's  little  finger. 

*  Dr.  Good  in  his  "  Book  of  Nature,"  gravely  asserts  that  the  whale  has 
no  external  ear,  but  that  sounds  are  conveyed  to  him  through  his  mouth. 


60  WHALING    SCENES. 

Between  the  eye  and  the  hump,  the  body  swells  out 
to  its  largest  dimensions,  and  is  often  deeply  wrinkled. 

The  color  of  the  sperm  whale  is  usually  of  ash  grey, 
with  occasional  dashes  of  whitish  streaks,  laid  on  irregu- 
larly over  his  exterior. 

The  Cetacea  are  warmblooded  animals,  and  are 
provided  with  an  internal  organization,  like  that  of  land 
animals,  which  obliges  them  to  come  up  to  the  surface 
of  the  water  to  breathe.  The  length  of  time  elapsing 
before  they  require  a  fresh  supply  of  air,  differs  with  the 
size  of  the  animal.  A  large  sperm  whale  will  sometimes 
stay  down  over  an  hour  and  a  half;  when  he  returns  to 
the  surface  again,  however,  he  sometimes  remains  up  for 
more  than  half  an  hour,  moving  sluggishly  about  and 
blowing  off  every  few  moments. 

When  we  contemplate  the  immense  proportions  exhi- 
bited by  some  varieties  of  Cetacea  in  their  organization — 
the  lungs  expanding  with  the  vast  volume  of  air  inhaled 
— and  the  heart  impelling  at  each  pulsation  from  ten  to 
fifteen  gallons  of  blood  through  an  aorta,  a  foot  in  diam- 
eter, into  the  vascular  system— the  idea  of  their  magni- 
tude must  fill  the  mind  with  astonishment.  "The 
diameter  of  the  aorta,  of  a  sperm  whale  that  was 
thrown  upon  the  coast  of  Yorkshire  was  12£  inches ; 
thickness  of  the  coat  of  the  artery  *  inch.  Length  of 
the  heart  from  the  apex  to  the  valves  of  the  aorta,  3  feet 
10  inches.  On  the  left  ventricle  being  laid  open,  its  capa- 
city was  guessed  to  contain  from  eight  to  ten  gallons.-" 
(Camb.  Phil.  Trans.) 

Since  the  order  Cetacea  does  not  derive  oxygen  by  a 
separation  of  the  atmosphere  from  the  element  in  which 
they  live,  as  is  the  case  with  all  kinds  offish,  which  are 
provided  with  a  peculiar  apparatus  for  this  purpose,  the 
length  of  time  during  which  respiration  is  suspended  in 


SPERM    WHALE.  61 

many  varieties  of  this  order  is  most  worfderful.  "  Respi- 
ration is  in  a  great  degree  subservient  to  the  circulation 
of  the  blood ;  the  stimulus  to  inspiration  is  the  accumu- 
lation of  this  fluid  in  the  lungs,  which  when  purified, 
proceeds  to  the  heart  whence  it  is  propelled  through  the 
frame  for  the  purpose  of  secretion,  &c;  after  which,  it  is 
again  received  into  the  veins,  when  it  assumes  its  venous 
aspect,  and  is  deprived  of  its  arterial  character.  The 
circle  thus  described  in  man  and  the  mammalia  generally 
is,  so  to  speak,  continuous  and  simple.  In  the  cetacea, 
however,  it  is  not  so ;  for  in  them,  the  arterial  portion, 
instead  of  being  a  simple  and  direct  course  to  the  venous, 
is  complicated  by  the  addition  of  a  structure,  which  we 
believe  is  peculiar  to  this  order,  and  which  is  nothing 
less  than  a  grand  reservoir  for  the  reception  of  a  great 
quantity  of  arterial  blood,  which  as  occasion  requires,  is 
emptied  into  the  general  circulation,  and  thus  for  a  time 
supersedes  the  necessity  of  respiration."  (Naturalist's 
Library,  vol.  vi.  p.  50.) 

Whales  are  also  viviparous,  and  of  course,  the  cow 
whale  is  provided  with  udders  for  suckling  her  young, 
in  common  with  all  mammalia. 

In  an  attack  upon  a  school  of  whales,  it  is  very  com- 
mon with  whalers  to  strike  a  calf  whale,  for  its  dam  will 
not  readily  desert  her  offspring,  and  in  her  extreme 
solicitude  for  her  young,  is  a  frequent  victim.  The  taking 
of  one  of  a  school,  almost  always  ensures  the  capture  of 
another,  for  his  comrades  do  not  immediately  abandon 
the  victim,  but  swim  around  him,  and  appear  to  sympa- 
thise with  him  in  his  sufferings. 

The  appearance  of  the  whale  as  represented  in  most 
works  of  natural  history,  is  extremely  inaccurate,  and  no 
one  would  suspect  for  what  it  was  designed,  unless  it  were 
labelled. 

6 


62 


WHALING     SCENES. 


All  cetaceous  animals  are  enveloped  in  a  thick  cover- 
ing of  fat  called  blubber,  varying  in  thickness  from  four 
to  fourteen  inches,  and  very  different  in  animals  of  the 
same  size.  It  is  a  firm,  hard  substance  of  a  fibrous  tex- 
ture, infiltrated  with  oil,  and  surrounded  upon  the  exte- 
rior with  a  strong  skin,  generally  having  a  thick  scurf 
adhering  to  it.  There  is  also  a  thin  semi-transparent 
skin  adhering  loosely  to  the  surface  of  the  animal,  and 
not  unfrequently  hanging  in  tatters  over  his  carcase. 

After  the  whale  has  been  secured  alongside  by  a  rope 
or  chain  passing  around  his  flukes,  and  carried  to  the 
bowsprit  bitts  in  the  forward  part  of  the  ship,  then  comes 
the  most  laborious  part  of  the  whaling  business.  The 
cutting  gear  is  rove,  consisting  of  two  very  large  and 
strong  ropes  passing  through  powerful  blocks,  hanging 
a  few  feet  below  the  main-top,  and  through  others  upon 
deck,  strapped  with  large  thimbles,  into  which  a  bar  of 
wood  may  be  introduced,  three  or  four  inches  in  diame- 
ter, and  about  two  feet  in  length.  Two  immense  iron 
hooks,  about  two  feet  and  a  half  in  height,  and  provided 
with  a  shackle  and  toggle  so  as  to  "  ship  and  unship," 
complete  the  cutting  gear. 

The  implements  used  in  "  cutting  in  "  the  whale,  are 
cutting  spades  with  long  "  poles  "  or  handles  ;  boarding 
knives,  two  edged  knives,  about  two  feet  and  a  half 
long,  sharp  pointed,  and  fixed  upon  a  handle  about  three 
feet  long — pikes,  bars  of  iron  pointed  with  steel  and 
fixed  upon  the  ends  of  short  poles — and  gaff  hooks, 
iron  hooks  pointed  with  steel,  also  fixed  upon  poles  in 
a  similar  manner. 

Having  thus  described  the  implements  of  a  cutting  in" 
the  whale,  I  will  now  attempt  to  describe  the  process. 

Upon  each  side  of  the  gangway,  a  staging  is  let  down, 
upon  which  those  that  wield  the  cutting  spades,  take 


CUTTING    IN.  63 

their  stand.  A  deep  incision  is  made  into  the  neck 
of  the  whale,  through  which  the  blood  flows  in  a  deluge, 
discoloring  the  sea,  and  almost  hiding  the  animal  from 
view.  The  ship  with  her  foretopsail "  hove  a-back,"  moves 
slowly  out  of  the  "  bloody  water,"  and  soon  a  large  hole 
is  cut  in  the  blubber  into  which  the  blubber  hook  is  in- 
serted, connected  with  the  windlass  by  the  powerful 
purchase  which  I  have  before  described.  To  point  the 
hook  into  the  orifice  made  for  it,  one  of  the  boatsteerers, 
having  upon  his  feet  a  pair  of  woollen  stockings  to  pre- 
vent his  slipping,  jumps  overboard,  guarded  by  a  rope 
passing  under  his  arms,  and  tended  by  one  of  the  men 
upon  deck.  It  is  no  very  easy  matter  to  introduce  the 
hook  into  the  proper  place,  while  the  sea  is  dashing  the 
whale  against  the  ship  and  the  waves  are  breaking  over 
him ;  so  that  a  man  runs  the  risk  of  being  strangled,  or 
of  being  bruised  by  the  concussion  of  the  animal  with 
the  vessel.  The  danger  of  being  horribly  mutilated  by 
the  sharks  that  assemble  in  great  numbers  during  the 
"  cutting  in,"  attracted  by  the  scent  of  blood,  is  by  no 
means  inconsiderable.  They  are  so  voracious,  that  not- 
withstanding the  deep  gashes  they  receive  from  the  cut- 
ting spades,  they  rush  upon  the  whale,  and  tear  off  large 
masses  of  blubber  with  their  formidable  jaws.  Several 
times  I  trembled  for  the  safety  of  the  man  who  was  en- 
deavoring to  fix  the  blubber  hook  into  the  proper  place, 
as  a  large  shark  came  up  within  a  few  inches  of  his  leg, 
and  once  I  thrilled  with  horror  as  one  of  those  ravenous 
monsters  turned  over  in  the  attitude  of  seizing  one  of  his 
limbs  m  his  terrible  teeth ;  but  at  this  moment  a  pull 
upon  the  rope  extricated  the  man  from  his  perilous  situ- 
ation. Sharks  of  this  species  (the  blue,  peaked  nose  va- 
riety) rarely  bite  any  one ;  yet  in  the  bloody  water 
around  the  whale,  they  snap  at  whatever  they  can  lay 


64  WHALING    SCENES. 

hold  of,  and  the  adventurous  seaman  is  sometimes  man- 
gled in  the  most  horrible  manner  by  their  jaws,  which  are 
powerful  enough  to  sever  a  limb  instantly. — At  one  time 
the  man  had  thrust  the  hook  into  the  hole  when 
his  leg  had  struck,  when  he  jumped  upon  the  whale, 
and  his  limb  would  have  been  crushed,  had  not  the 
hook  slipped  from  the  blubber  at  that  instant. 

After  the  hook  has  been  properly  adjusted  in  the  ori- 
fice cut  for  its  reception,  a  gash  is  cut  obliquely  upon 
each  side ;  a  turn  or  two  is  given  at  the  windlass,  and 
the  blubber,  yielding  to  the  tremendous  strain,  becomes 
detached,  and  is  unwound,  while  the  whale  rolls  over 
and  over,  until  the  entire  exterior  coat,  about  a  yard  in 
breadth  is  torn  off  down  to  the  flukes.  When  the  strip 
of  blubber  has  been  elevated  to  some  distance  above  the 
deck,  the  second  set  of  cutting  gear  is  brought  into  ser- 
vice ;  and  the  strap  and  thimble  are  thrust  through  an 
opening  cut  into  the  blubber,  and  secured  by  the  wooden 
bar  fixed  into  it,  while  the  blubber  above  it  is  severed 
and  dropped  into  the  blubber  room,  a  space  appropriated 
for  the  reception  of  it  under  the  main  hatch.  Both  the 
blubber  hooks  are  dispensed  with  for  the  present,  and  the 
thimbles  succeed  one  another  alternately,  until  the  body 
of  the  whale  has  been  disposed  of.  While  this  process  has 
been  going  forward,  the  head  has  been  cut  off  just  behind 
the  eyes,  and  secured  to  the  main  channels  or  by  a  rope 
passing  on  board  and  fastened  to  the  maintopsail  sheet 
bitts.  The  under  jaw  is  then  severed  and  hoisted  in 
upon  deck,  and  the  remainder  of  the  head  after  being 
divided  into  two  triangular  portions,  is  also  taken  aboard. 
The  head  of  the  sperm  whale  is  the  most  valuable  part 
of  the  animal,  containing  by  far  the  richest  proportion 
of  spermaceti,  although  the  oil  made  from  any  part  of  the 
animal  yields  a  certain  proportion.     Hence,  it  is  always 


SPERM    OIL 


65 


desirable  to  raise  the  head  upon  deck,  if  practicable ;  if 
otherwise  the  "  case,"  a  cavity  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
head,  is  opened  and  bailed  out,  while  the  latter  is  firmly 
secured  alongside  the  ship.  The  case  is  surrounded  by 
a  thick  wall  of  a  white,  gristly  substance,  termed  by  the 
whalers  u  white  horse ;"  the  cavity  is  lined  with  a  yel- 
lowish fat,  and  is  filled  with  oil  of  a  very  superior  qual- 
ity, which,  when  warm,  is  perfectly  limpid,  but  concretes 
in  beautiful  white  masses,  if  allowed  to  become  cold,  or 
as  it  drips  upon  the  water. 


Above  is  a  representation  of  the  outline  of  the  sperm 
whale,  with  the  sections  into  which  his  exterior  coat  is 
divided.  The  position  of  the  cavity  of  the  case  is  indi- 
cated by  the  letter  a  ;  b,  the  junk ;  c,  bunch  of  the  neck ; 
d,  hump  ;  e,  flukes  ;  /,  /,  blanket  pieces, — spiral  bands 
in  which  the  blubber  is  unwound  from  the  carcase ;  g9 
orifice  in  the  blubber  for  the  reception  of  the  blubber 
hook,  attached  to  the  cutting  falls,  h. 

It  is  to  be  remarked,  that  fresh  oil  has  but  very  lit- 
tle or  none  of  that  nauseous,  disagreeable  odor  that 
belongs  to  it  when  it  is  put  into  our  lamps  at  home 
after  two  or  three  years  have  elapsed  since  it  was  ob- 
tained, and  it  is  a  common  thing  aboard  whale  ships 
to  treat  their  crews  with  a  quantity  of  dough  nuts  fried 
in  the  oil  dipped  from  the  case.  1  have  no  doubt 
they  have  a  fine  relish,  and  I  should  be  very  glad  to  try 

6* 


66  WHALING    SCENES. 

some  of  them  myself,  although  some  time  will  probably 
elapse  first,  as  the  rule  aboard  the  North  America  is  not 
to  have  any  dough  nuts  fried  in  head  oil  until  there  are 
a  thousand  barrels  of  oil  on  board. 

The  larger  of  the  two  whales  we  took  this  morning, 
must  have  measured  about  forty  feet,  and  the  smaller 
about  twenty-five  feet.  The  length  of  the  head  was  not 
far  from  twelve  feet  in  the  larger,  and  contained  a  cavity 
large  enough  to  hold  two  or  three  men  after  the  oil  (sev- 
enty or  eighty  gallons)  had  been  dipped  out. 

Sperm  whales  have  been  captured  of  a  length  exceed- 
ing eighty  feet,  and  a  good  estimate  may  be  formed  of 
the  magnitude  of  the  case,  when  it  is  known  that  over 
ten  barrels  of  oil  are  frequently  dipped  from  this  cavity. 

The  head  oil  and  fat  are  immediately  committed  to  the 
try-pots,  while  the  blubber  in  the  blubber  room  is  cut  up 
into  angular  pieces  of  two  feet  in  length  perhaps,  by  one 
foot  in  breadth.  Meanwhile  a  fire  has  been  kindled  in 
the  furnace,  which  is  kept  up  night  and  day,  until  the 
oil  is  tried  out  and  put  up  in  casks.  The  tubs  for  hold- 
ing the  blubber,  of  various  sizes,  are  also  brought  up  from 
"  between  decks,"  as  well  as  the  mincing-  horses,  and 
mincing  knives,  sharp  knives  with  a  handle  at  each  end, 
and  used  for  cutting  up  the  junks  of  blubber  into  small 
pieces.  Some  of  the  men  are  down  among  the  blubber, 
others  are  engaged  in  sliding  the  tubs  to  the  main  hatch 
for  the  reception  of  blubber,  and  in  pushing  them  back 
to  the  mincing  horse  upon  the  larboard  side  near  the 
tryworks — others  still,  are  employed  about  the  mincing 
horse,  while  the  officer  of  the  watch  with  one  or  two 
boatsteerers,  or  the  best  men  in  his  watch,  superintend  the 
tryworks.  The  fire  is  commenced  with  pieces  of  dry 
wood,  and  is  afterwards  supported  with  great  intensity 
by  the  "  scraps  "  or  refuse  pieces  of  blubber  from  which 


SPERM    OIL.  67 

the  oil  has  been  tried  out.  The  oil  must  be  boiled  in 
order  to  expel  every  thing  of  a  watery  nature. that  might 
have  been  mingled  with  it  in  its  natural  state,  otherwise 
it  cannot  be  preserved  from  corruption.  As  the  boiling 
point  of  oil  is  far  above  that  of  water,  the  heat  required 
is  of  a  very  high  temperature,  as  is  strikingly  illustrated 
by  the  melting  of  solder  off  from  any  tin  vessel  intro- 
duced into  the  fluid. 

Great  care  is  required  in  trying  out,  to  prevent  the  oil 
from  being  burnt,  and  also  to  guard  against  the  danger 
of  water  getting  into  the  boiling  cauldrons,  which  would 
immediately  dash  up  in  steam,  and  throw  their  contents 
around  in  every  direction.  Hence  this  process  is  very 
hazardous  in  boisterous  weather,  and  appears  to  be 
dangerous  enough  at  any  time.  When  the  oil  has  been 
boiled  sufficiently,  it  will  crepitate  sharply  if  a  little 
water  is  sprinkled  upon  it.  The  scraps  are  now  taken 
out,  and  thrown  into  a  tub  with  a  perforated  bottom  to 
allow  the  oil  to  drain  from  them.  They  then  look  like 
pieces  of  fried  pork,  and  taste  very  much  like  it,  as  I  can 
testify  from  experience.  Fresh  pieces  of  blubber  are  now 
introduced  into  the  pots,  and  the  oil  is  bailed  out  into 
the  cooler,  a  large  rectangular,  copper  vessel,  capable  of 
holding  from  six  to  ten  barrels,  provided  with  a  stopcock 
fixed  into  the  side  with  a  perforated  plate  before  it  to 
prevent  the  escape  of  fine  scraps  that  may  happen  to  be 
floating  about.  The  oil  is  drawn  off  from  the  cooler 
into  the  deck  pot,  a  large,  spare  iron  pot,  from  which, 
while  warm,  it  is  poured  into  the  casks,  which  shrink  as 
the  oil  grows  cold,  thus  allowing  the  hoops  to  be  forced 
on  farther  than  they  could  otherwise  be  driven. 

In  trying  out  a  whale,  the  respective  watches  are 
upon  duty  six  hours  instead  of  four,  and  of  course,  have 
a  watch  below  of  six  hours.   The  fatigues  of  this  part  of 


68  WHALING     SCENES.     • 

whaling  are  so  great,  that  the  ordinary  rest  of  four  hours 
duration,  is  insufficient  to  revive  the  men. 

Tuesday,  December  3.  The  process  of  trying  out 
continued  without  cessation,  until  yesterday  afternoon, 
when  after  this  laborious  business  was  completed,  the 
tubs,  knives  &c,  were  removed  below,  and  the  ship 
received  a  thorough  scouring  fore  and  aft,  with  strong 
alkali  and  sand  applied  with  the  scrub  brooms.  And 
indeed  she  required  it,  for  the  muddy  scurf  from  the 
exterior  of  the  whale  uniting  with  the  oil,  does  not 
improve  the  appearance  of  anything  with  which  it  comes 
in  contact.  The  "  trying  out,"  was  not  however,  so 
disgusting  an  operation  as  I  had  anticipated,  as  the 
cutting  up  of  blubber  and  handling  it,  is  confined  to  the 
waist  and  forward  parts  of  the  ship. 

The  day  after  trying  out  is  usually  given  to  the  crew 
of  whalers,  for  the  purpose  of  washing  their  clothes  and 
cleaning  themselves,  and  also  as  a  period  of  rest  after  the 
fatigues  they  have  just  passed  through.  With  the 
exception  of  manning  the  wheel  and  the  mastheads 
therefore,  no  duty  is  required  of  the  men. 


CHAPTER  V. 

CROSSING  THE  LINE. 


Disagreeable  and  cruel  tricks  formerly  practised  on  the 
"Green  Horn" — Ceremonies  of  initiation  into  the  myste- 
ries of  Neptune — Novel  and  interesting  aspect  of  the 
starry  heavens  in  another  hemisphere — Delightful  weather 
— Phosphorescence  of  the  sea. 


Wednesday,  December  4.  We  crossed  the  Equator 
sometime  this  forenoon,  in  about  thirty  degrees  West 
Longitude.  We  were  expecting  to  do  this,  last  Sunday, 
but  the  delay  occasioned  by  the  taking  of  whales  &c., 
carried  us  so  far  from  our  course,  that  we  have  ever 
since  been  occupied  in  making  the  sixty  or  eighty  miles 
that  intervened  before  reaching  the  line. 

The  crossing  of  the  line,  is  considered  an  important 
event  in  a  "  greenhorn's"  life.  It  was  formerly  customary 
to  compel  him  to  pass  through  many  disagreeable  cere- 
monies in  order  to  initiate  him  into  the  mysteries  of 
Neptune,  and  to  propitiate  the  favor  of  his  godship 
upon  his  future  career  over  the  ocean.  In  some  ships  it 
is  still  allowable  to  play  all  manner  of  tricks  upon  the 
novice,  whatever  may  be  his  station  aboard  the  vessel. 
If  he  happens  to  be  of  a  very  susceptible  character,  his 
imagination  is  stimulated  by  vivid  descriptions  of  Nep- 
tune, and  his  awful  appearance  to  the  uninitiated,  while 
crossing  the  line.  Marvellous  tales  are  also  told  him  of 
the  wrath  of  the  deity  which  has  always  been  displayed 
towards  those,  who  upon  this  occasion  refused  to  do 


70  CROSSING     THE     LINE. 

homage  to  his  resistless  sovereignty  over  the  ocean.  If 
the  aspirant  is  particularly  ignorant  and  credulous,  he  is 
induced  to  go  aloft  and  remain  there  all  day  to  look  out 
for  the  line,  which  he  expects  to  find  accurately  drawn 
upon  the  face  of  the  waters,  by  the  hand  of  old  father 
Neptune.  The  night  before  crossing,  in  particular,  he 
is  told  to  be  on  the  watch  for  Neptune's  light,  which  is 
always  displayed  near  the  Equator:  and  sure  enough, 
during  the  evening,  he  discerns  a  bright  light  dancing 
upon  the  billows,  not  far  from  the  ship,  looking  to  his 
excited  imagination  like  the  lamp  of  some  weird  spirit. 

This  is  but  the  commencement  of  the  ceremonies. 
After  undergoing  a  plentiful  ablution  in  the  briny  ele- 
ment, administered  by  bucketsfull,  he  is  blindfolded  to 
await  the  awful  presence  of  the  king  and  queen  of  the 
ocean.  Seated  upon  a  board  placed  across  the  top  of  a 
large  tub  filled  with  salt  water,  he  is  presented  with  a 
huge  tin  trumpet,  which  he  raises  to  his  mouth  and 
thunders  forth,  "  Neptune  a-hoy !"  when  a  bucket  of 
salt  water  is  dashed  into  the  mouth  of  the  trumpet, 
accompanied  by  a  push  over  backwards,  which  plunges 
him  into  the  water  underneath,  headfirst,  and  he  scram- 
bles out  of  the  tub,  almost  strangled  to  death,  with  a 
most  natural  horror  of  the  arcana  of  Neptune.  As  he 
recovers,  his  majesty  makes  his  appearance  over  the 
side  of  the  ship,  arrayed  in  a  fanciful  costume, 
with  long  streamers  of  seaweed  entwined  in  his  hair, 
and  bearing  on  high  his  mystic  trident.  He  is  accom- 
panied by  Mrs.  Neptime  in  the  attire  of  the  Queen 
of  the  Mermaids,  and  her  presence  is  hailed  with  enthu- 
siastic devotion  by  all  the  genuine  salts  who  have  passed 
through  the  ordeal  of  initiation. 

After  their  majesties  have  mounted  upon  their  thrones, 
(the  tryworks  for  instance,)  the  novice  is  brought  before 


INITIATION    CEREMONIES.  71 

them  and  compelled  to  answer  a  great  variety  of  ques- 
tions, (for  his  majesty  is  extremely  inquisitive,)  and 
should  he  persist  in  keeping  his  mouth  shut,  his  tacitur- 
nity is  broken  by  a  thump  under  the  chin.  If  he  opens 
his  mouth  and  becomes  communicative  to  too  great  a 
degree,  a  stopper  is  introduced  by  one  of  his  majesty's 
attendants,  consisting  of  the  most  disgusting  materials 
that  can  be  collected  together.  The  candidate  is  also 
often  subjected  to  the  process  of  being  shorn  by  the  mis- 
chievous attendants  of  the  irresistible  sea  god.  A  piece 
of  an  iron  hoop  is  produced,  together  with  a  bucket  of 
"  slush "  and  tar,  which  is  plentifully  daubed  over  the 
face  of  the  novice,  and  scraped  off  with  the  iron  hoop  ! 
He  is  now  instructed  in  a  few  wholesome  rules,  such  as 
not  to  smoke  his  pipe  upon  the  quarter  deck — when  he 
goes  aft  to  take  the  lee  side  of  the  deck,  &c,  each  article  of 
the  code  being  pounded  into  his  comprehension  and  re- 
membrance by  a  tremendous  thump  on  the  back. — As 
the  grand  finale  which  gives  him  an  indisputable  claim 
to  the  title  of  seaman,  he  is  u  keel-hauled ,"  i.  e.  a  rope 
is  «  bent "  around  his  body,  and  he  is  thrown  overboard  to 
be  drawn  under  the  ship  and  hauled  up  on  the  other 
side  !  He  is  now  considered  as  regularly  inducted  into 
the  mysteries  of  Neptune,  after  having  sworn  "  by  the 
pumps,  the  chains,  the  channels,  and  all  abaft  the  miz- 
zen  rigging "  to  observe  all  the  requisitions  of  the  sea 
god. 

These  disagreeable  and  cruel  ceremonies,  which  were 
formerly  observed  very  generally,  have  for  the  most  part 
become  disused.  On  board  the  North  America,  nothing 
of  the  kind  was  tolerated.  With  the  exception  of  Nep- 
tune's light,  which  was  discovered  upon  the  waters  last 
Saturday  night,  as  the  handiwork  of  Mr.  Freeman,  no 
attempt  was  made  to  play  tricks  upon  the  green  horns. 


72  CROSSING    THE    LINE. 

Thus  we  have  crossed  the  line,  and  at  this  moment 
are  fifteen  or  twenty  leagues  southward  of  it.  I  have 
just  been  upon  deck  to  take  a  look  at  the  stars.  The 
north  star,  that  has  been  slowly  descending  in  the  sky, 
evening  after  evening,  has  sunk  below  the  horizon, 
and  with  it  the  remembrance  of  home  brought  so  vividly 
to  mind  in  the  evening  sky,  and  the  fond  associations 
the  silent  stars  are  calculated  to  inspire,  have  seemed  to 
set. 

Saturday ^  Dec.  7.  We  are  now  about  seven  degrees 
to  the  southward  of  the  equator,  and  the  mild  air  of  the 
trade  wind  is  impelling  us  forward  over  a  smooth  sea. 
The  days  are  lengthening  rapidly,  and  the  temperature 
of  the  atmosphere  is  most  delightful,  the  thermometer 
ranging  at  seventy-six  or  eighty  degrees  in  the  shade. 
It  is  most  refreshing  to  sit  in  the  shadow  of  the  sails,  and 
inhale  the  exhilarating  breeze,  and  to  view  the  ocean 
breaking  into  bright  waves  with  snowy  crests,  and  to 
trace  the  serene  sky  shading  off  into  mellow  light  until 
it  meets  the  deep  blue  waters,  where  it  is  reflected  in 
their  heaving  undulations. 

I  have  often  at  night,  leaned  over  the  ship's  side  and 
for  a  long  time  watched  the  phosphorescent  spangles 
that  seemed  to  dance  upon  the  sea,  as  it  has  been  agita- 
ted by  our  progress  over  the  depths.  Even  in  our  lati- 
tude at  home,  sea  water  phosphoresces  beautifully  when 
agitated  ;  but  this  exhibition  is  faint  in  comparison  with 
what  we  have  in  these  tropical  regions.  Around  the 
bow,  along  the  side,  and  in  the  wake  of  the  ship,  the  sea 
seems  to  be  on  fire.  Countless  spangles  emerge  from 
the  troubled  waters,  while  brilliant  phosphorescent 
flashes  and  globes  of  light  of  great  size,  illuminate  the 
ship's  path.  Occasionally  a  wave  breaks  at  a  distance 
from  the  vessel,  and  from  its  crest  issues  a  ball  of  light 


PHOSPHORESCENCE.  73 

that  seems  to  play  upon  the  dark  waters  like  the  flicker- 
ing rays  of  the  ignis  fatuus.  The  porpoises  and  other 
animals  that  sport  around  the  ship,  leave  a  luminous 
train  after  them,  winding  frequently  in  serpentine  curves. 
There  is  also  in  these  latitudes  a  gelatinous  substance,  a 
species  of  the  medusa?,  called  by  the  seamen  the  "sea 
cucumber"  from  a  resemblance  to  the  garden  cucumber 
in  size  and  shape.  It  exists  in  vast  quantities  within  the 
tropics,  and  when  disturbed  by  the  ship,  emits  a  brilliant 
phosphorescence.  In  rough  weather  it  is  often  thrown 
upon  deck,  and  rolls  down  to  leeward  like  a  fire-ball. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

CRUISE  IN  THE  SOUTH  ATLANTIC. 

Fall  in  with  the  "  Messenger  "  of  New-Bedford — Sickness  on 
board  this  ship — medical  practice  of  sea-captains — fall  in 
with  the  "  William  and  Eliza" — Social  habits  of  whalers — 
Whaling  Scenes — Versatility  of  talent  requisite  for  an 
accomplished  seaman — Dress  and  manners  of  the  crew — Mr. 
Freeman's  soirees — Annoyances  on  ship-board — Christmas — 
Mechanical  employments  of  the  men. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  10.  Upon  going  on  deck  this  morn- 
ing after  breakfast,  we  saw  a  ship  upon  our  weather 
quarter  standing  towards  us,  and  from  her  taking  in  sail, 
concluded  she  was  desirous  of  speaking  us  ;  accordingly, 
we  hauled  our  maintopsail  aback,  awaiting  the  approach 
of  the  stranger.  She  came  down  beautifully  before  the 
wind,  and  passing  close  astern,  clewed  up  her  main 
course,  and  backed  her  maintopsail  within  a  short  dis- 
tance to  leeward.  She  proved  to  be  the  "  Messenger  of 
New-Bedford,"  and  as  she  passed  us,  we  were  hailed  by 
her  captain,  who  requested  Captain  K.  to  come  on  board 
his  ship  and  prescribe  for  the  mate  who  was  lying  dan- 
gerously sick. 

A  boat  was  soon  in  readiness,  and  by  Capt.  Richards's 
invitation,  I  accompanied  him  on  board  the  "  Messen- 
ger." The  neat  exterior  of  this  little  ship  (her  tonnage 
is  less  than  three  hundred)  corresponded  with  what  we 
saw  on  board  of  her.  The  deck  was  white  and  clean, 
and  every  thing  was  in  good  order  and  nicely  painted. 
We  descended  into  a  handsome,  light,  and  airy  cabin, 
with  ranges  of  state  rooms  upon  each  side.     The  pantry 


SICKMAN.  75 

door  stood  open,  displaying  the  culinary  furniture  taste- 
fully arranged  upon  the  shelves. 

In  one  of  the  state  rooms  lay  the  sick  man.  He  had 
been  laboring  under  a  violent  fever  for  a  long  time, 
which  had  affected  his  mind,  so  that  it  was  with  some 
difficulty  we  were  able  to  ascertain  his  exact  state  of 
feeling.  The  fever  appeared  to  have  abated,  owing  to 
his  having  taken  an  emetic  which  reduced  the  febrile 
symptoms. 

Capt.  Kendrick,  of  the  Messenger,  said  that  he  knew 
nothing  of  the  treatment  necessary,  and  requested  Capt. 
R.  to  prescribe  whatever  he  thought  proper.  It  is  a 
wonder  indeed,  that  sailors  escape  the  effects  of  disease 
as  often  as  they  do,  since  they  are  out  of  the  reach  of 
medical  advice  for  so  long  a  time.  Every  master  of  a 
vessel  is  the  physician  and  surgeon  aboard  his  ship ;  his 
medicines  are  all  numbered  corresponding  to  certain 
numbers  in  a  little  pamphlet  of  directions  accompanying 
them,  and  whenever  necessary,  he  makes  a  selection  ac- 
cording to  the  best  of  his  judgment. 

After  prescribing  what  we  thought  his  case  required, 
and  directing  the  invalid  to  be  kept  cool,  we  went  down 
the  ship's  side  into  our  boat,  after  agreeing  with  the 
master  of  the  Messenger  to  sail  in  company  with  him 
for  a  few  days.  Soon  after  we  regained  the  North 
America,  the  Messenger  stood  off  until  her  hull  sank 
below  the  horizon ;  then  hauling  her  wind,  she  contin- 
ued on  the  same  course  parallel  with  us  all  day. 

Towards  evening,  she  gradually  drew  up  within  a 
couple  of  miles  of  us,  and  hung  out  her  signal  lantern 
which  was  answered  from  the  North  America. 

It  is  a  very  pleasant  thing  to  sail  in  company  in  this 
way.  A  long  voyage  is  relieved  of  its  tedious  monotony, 
and  you  feel  that  you  are  not  alone  upon  the  wide 


76  CRUISE    IN    THE    SOUTH    ATLANTIC. 

waters,  but  that  there  are  those  near  you  who  welcome 
you  with  an  interest  that  nothing  but  a  long  seclusion 
from  society  can  inspire.  By  the  way,  I  have  said 
nothing  about  my  medical  pursuits,  since  leaving  the 
United  States.  Having  always  had  a  penchant  for 
medical  studies,  I  brought  among  my  books  for  the 
voyage,  several  works  upon  medicine,  which  have  been 
studied  with  great  interest.  In  several  cases  of  sickness 
that  we  have  had,  Capt.  R.,  has  had  confidence  enough 
in  me  to  consult  me,  and  very  fortunately,  in  every 
instance  my  suggestions  have  proved  successful ;  so  that 
I  have  become  a  sort  of  doctor  on  board  ;  and  having  a 
medicine  chest  of  my  own,  containing  some  medicines 
not  found  in  the  ship's  chest,  I  have  had  no  small  run 
of  practice  for  a  tyro. 

Wednesday,  Dec.  11.  Our  consort  preserved  her 
distance  from  us  until  about  one  o'clock  this  afternoon, 
when  she  luffed  up  towards  us,  for  the  purpose  of  speak- 
ing us.  Upon  nearing  us,  she  hovp.  to,  and  we  went 
astern  of  her,  communicating  with  Capt.  Kendrick,  who 
requested  us  to  come  on  board  his  ship  again,  and  take 
a  look  at  his  mate.  Capt.  Richards  requested  me  to  go 
ofT  to  the  Messenger  with  the  second  mate.  Just  as  we 
were  leaving  the  North  America,  another  ship,  which 
had  been  in  sight  all  the  morning,  astern  of  us,  now 
came  up  and  rounded  to  under  our  lee.  The  sea  was 
very  "  rugged,"  and  we  mounted  upon  the  ridges  of  the 
rolling  billows,  and  descended  again,  while  the  huge 
waves  threatened  to  engulf  us,  until  we  reached  the 
Messenger.  Mounting  in  a  boat  upon  the  surges  of  the 
open  ocean,  is  a  very  different  matter  from  gliding  along 
on  the  smooth  waters  of  our  bays  or  sounds. 

We  found  the  invalid  somewhat  better,  although 
having  never  been  sick  before,  he  was  inclined  to  be 


SHIP   WILLIAM    AND    ELIZA.  77 

despairing  of  recovery  and  faithless  in  the  efficacy  of 
medicines ;  a  moderate  supply  of  faith  would  render  his 
case  altogether  more  encouraging,  as  a  confident  reliance* 
upon  the  efficacy  of  medicine  is  often,  I  have  no  doubt, 
of  more  avail  than  the  medicine  itself. 

Returning  to  the  North  America,  Capt.  Richards 
invited  me  to  accompany  him  on  board  the  other  ship, 
the  "  William  and  Eliza,"  of  New  Bedford  ;  her  captain 
had  some  time  previously  broken  his  leg,  and  requested 
Capt.  R.,  to  give  his  advice  respecting  it.  We  boarded 
the  stranger,  and  found  the  master  sitting  upon  deck, 
looking  much  better  than  we  had  expected  to  see  him. 
Both  bones  of  the  lower  part  of  the  leg  near  the  ankle, 
had  been  fractured,  but  the  fracture  was  healing  in  a 
very  favorable  manner.  We  were  conducted  into  a  very 
handsome  cabin,  where  we  had  some  conversation  about 
the  news  from  home.  The  captain  of  this  ship  had  been 
out  from  thirty  to  thirty  five  days,  but  had  taken  no  oil. 
The  news  he  gave  us,  that  all  the  banks  were  upon  the 
eve  of  suspending  specie  payments,  was  of  no  very 
agreeable  character,  as  may  be  easily  imagined. 

We  were  obliged  to  decline  the  very  pressing  invita- 
tion of  the  captain  to  take  supper  with  him,  as  Capt.  R., 
was  unwilling  to  remain  away  from  his  ship  in  rough 
weather.  We  did  so  much  against  our  will,  as  the 
promise  of  "  fresh  grub,"  was  exceedingly  tempting,  after 
the  liberal  exercise  we  have  had  upon  «  salt  junk "  for 
some  time  before.  A  large  pig  was  hanging  up  ready  for 
cooking,  while  an  abundance  of  goats,  ducks  &c,  ren- 
dered it  the  more  trying  to  resist  the  Captain's  earnest 
solicitations  to  take  supper  with  him. 

Every  thing  looked  neat  and  in  excellent  order  aboard 
the  «  William  and  Eliza,"  and  I  left  her  with  very  favor- 
able impressions  of  the  New  Bedford  whalers. 


78  CRUISE    IN    THE    SOUTH    ATLANTIC. 

It  is  customary  for  the  masters  and  officers  of  whalers, 
while  cruising  upon  the  same  "grounds,"  to  make 
frequent  interchanges  of  visits.  Towards  evening  the 
ships  draw  near  to  one  another,  to  allow  their  officers  an 
opportunity  of  having  a  "gam,"  which  continues  some- 
times to  a  late  hour,  when  all  their  various  whaling 
adventures  are  narrated  over  a  good  supper,  got  up  in 
the  best  style  the  ship  can  exhibit. 

With  regard  to  my  newly  acquired  title  of  "  doctor," 
which  was  given  me  aboard  these  ships,  I  must  say  that 
I  have  been  enabled  to  bear  the  honor  with  all  becoming 
humility.  It  was,  however,  with  some  difficulty  that 
I  kept  my  countenance,  when  they  invited  the  "doctor" 
down  into  the  cabin  to  see  the  invalids.  On  board  the 
"  William  and  Eliza,"  the  mate  came  up  to  me  and  said, 
"Well,  doctor,  what  do  you  think  of  the  mate  of  the 
Messenger  ?  Do  you  think  there  is  any  probability  of 
his  recovery?"  Upon  which,  assuming  a  professional 
air,  that  would  have  been  creditable  to  an  old  practitioner, 
I  answered  without  hesitation — "  Yes,  certainly,  he  will 
be  well  enough  before  long,  if  nothing  happens  unfavor- 
ably ;"  an  opinion  not  far  from  the  truth,  and  generally 
applicable  in  all  cases  of  sickness. 

Aboard  the  "William  and  Eliza,"  I  was  asked  several 
questions  about  the  Captain's  leg,  which  would  have 
puzzled  me,  were  it  not  that  I  had  picked  up  a  little 
anatomy  from  the  college  lectures,  and  was  master  of  a 
few  facts  and  terms  which  passed,  at  such  a  distance  from 
the  faculty,  for  a  profound  knowledge  of  the  healing  art. 

Thus  much  in  vindication  of  my  title  of  "  doctor."  In 
the  enjoyment  of  this  dignity,  I  am  not  alone,  however, 
on  board.  Mr.  Freeman,  among  his  cognomens  of 
"Spot,"  "Jumbo,"  "Congo,"  and  "Skillet,"  receives  the 
title  of  "  Doctor,"  by  virtue  of  his  office,  not  from  his 


SOCIAL     HABITS     OF     WHALERS.  79 

medical  abilities,  but  from  his  talent  for  uniting  together 
marvellous  ingredients  in  the  compounds  he  prepares. 

Friday,  Dec.  13.  Yesterday,  about  noon,  a  large 
school  of  Sperm  Whales  was  seen  directly  ahead  about 
four  miles  off,  moving  very  rapidly  to  windward,  having 
been  "gallied"or  alarmed  by  the  "  Messenger,"  which 
ran  in  among  them  before  they  were  perceived.  We 
set  our  maincourse,  flying  gib  and  spanker,  and  braced 
up  sharp  upon  the  wind,  with  the  hope  of  having  an 
opportunity  of  "going  on  to  them."  It  was  a  very 
animating  scene  on  board ;  the  men  sprang  to  their 
stations  with  great  alacrity,  and  "there  she  blows," 
"  there  she  breeches,"  "  there  goes  flukes,"  was  echoed 
from  thirty  deeply  interested  spectators. 

Early  in  the  afternoon,  a  large  whale  was  seen  imme- 
diately under  our  lee  beam,  about  half  a  mile  off.  The 
boats  were  soon  in  chase,  but  after  an  unsuccessful 
pursuit  of  an  hour  and  a  half,  they  returned,  having 
rested  upon  their  oars  for  nearly  half  an  hour,  while 
the  whale  was  "  down."  He  was  a  large  animal,  and 
would  have  made  probably,  sixty  or  severity  barrels 
of  oil. 

This  morning,  our  consort  was  observed  to  have 
backed  her  maintop-sail,  an  indication  that  something 
was  seen,  and  accordingly  we  bore  down  for  her.  As 
we  neared  her,  we  saw  that  her  boats  had  not  been 
lowered,  and  seeing  no  whales,  we  luffed  up  into  the 
wind  and  stood  off  in  another  direction.  Just  then, 
"There  she  blows,"  was  sounded  and  repeated  from 
the  masthead;  and  within  a  couple  of  miles  off  our 
lee  bow,  a  large  school  of  sperm  whales  was  seen 
blowing  in  frequent  jets  d'eau,  and  moving  rapidly 
away  from  the  ship.  The  boats  were  soon  lowered, 
and   came  up  with  them   just    as  they  went   down, 


80         CRUISE    IN    THE    SOUTH    ATLANTIC. 

when  they  "  hove  up"  to  await  their  reappearance.  In 
a  short  time  a  large  whale  is  seen  heading  to  windward 
of  the  school.  The  boats  are  shooting  after  him  with 
bending  oars — one  of  them  takes  the  lead  and  by  a 
desperate  effort,  ranges  up  alongside  the  whale — the 
boatsteerer  darts  his  harpoon,  but  the  weapon  glances 
harmlessly  across  the  back  of  the  monster,  which  disap- 
pears in  a  long  line  of  white  foam. 

After  this  failure,  the  whales  were  too  shy  to  allow 
the  boats  to  come  near  them,  and  they  were  recalled. 
The  general  disappointment  in  the  prospect  of  capturing 
a  whale  that  would  make  seventy  barrels  of  oil,  may  be 
easily  imagined.  This  is  the  second  opportunity  this 
boatsteerer  has  misimproved  in  a  similar  manner ;  and  if 
another  failure  like  this  should  happen,  he  will  incur 
the  risk  of  being  turned  before  the  mast,  and  one  of  the 
foremost  hands  substituted  in  his  place.  A  failure  like 
this  is  a  serious  loss,  since  a  sperm  whale  large  enough 
to  make  seventy  barrels  of  oil,  is  worth  not  far  from 
two  thousand  three  hundred  dollars. 

It  is  every  man's  interest  to  exert  himself  to  the  utmost ; 
for  in  the  whaling  business  it  is  almost  universally  the 
custom  to  ship  men  upon  shares.  Each  man,  from 
Captain  to  green  hand,  ships  for  a  certain  "  lay"  or  share 
in  the  profits  of  the  voyage,  which  is  calculated  when 
the  ship  returns  home.  The  Captain  for  instance, 
receives  an  eighteenth  perhaps ;  the  mate  a  forty  fifth, 
down  to  the  green  hand,  who  gets  only  a  hundred  and 
sixty  fifth  of  all  the  oil  obtained  during  the  voyage. 
This  stimulates  all  to  do  their  best,  and  enables  them 
to  sustain  the  great  fatigues  they  are  called  upon  to 
encounter,  without  murmuring. 

Monday,  Dec.  16. — This  morning,  judging  by  the 
maneuvres  of  the   "  Messenger,"  that  whales  were  in 


WHALING    SCENES.  81 

sight,  we  bore  down  for  her,  and  when  about  half  a  mile 
off,  we  saw  several  spouts,  not  a  great  distance  from  the 
ship.  Immediately  the  ship  was  rounded  to,  and  three 
of  the  boats  were  lowered.  Upon  reaching  the  place 
where  the  whales  had  made  their  appearance,  the  boats 
"  hove  up"  to  await  their  coming  up  to  blow.  In  the 
mean  time,  the  "  Messenger's"  boats  passed  by  us  and 
followed  our  boats  in  the  chase.  They  had  nearly 
reached  the  latter,  when  Capt.  R.,  and  myself,  (who 
had  stationed  ourselves  upon  the  foretopsail  yard) 
discovered  whales  blowing  about  a  mile  off  on  our  lee 
beam.  A  signal  was  instantly  made  to  the  boats,  by  the 
man  at  the  main-top-gallant  mast  head,  and  they  were 
springing  at  the  oar,  while  Capt.  R.,  put  off  in  his  boat. 
A  man  is  stationed  at  the  main-top-gallant  mast  head, 
with  a  "  waif,"  a  balloon  about  eighteen  inches  in  diam- 
eter, fastened  upon  the  end  of  a  rod,  with  which  he 
points  in  the  direction  of  the  whales. 

The  whales  were  not  seen  after  this,  and  all  the  boats 
returned  to  their  respective  ships,  to  console  themselves 
for  their  disappointments  by  hopes  of  future  success. 

As  we  came  up  from  dinner,  we  found  all  the  crew 
gathered  upon  the  forecastle,  and  merrily  singing  out, 
"  There  she  blows,  There  she  blows,"  in  a  very  musical 
chorus. 

Again  the  boats  were  lowered,  and  in  pursuit,  with 
every  prospect  of  success,  as  the  whale  or  whales,  were 
but  a  short  distance  off.  But  after  a  fruitless  chace  of 
two  or  three  hours,  they  returned,  the  men  almost 
exhausted  from  the  severe  labors  of  the  day. 

The  Captain  has  determined  to  cruise  for  some  time 
in  this  region.  Upon  three  days  out  of  five,  we  have 
seen  schools  of  sperm  whales,  although  we  have  taken 
nothing,  a  fair  specimen   of  the   alternate   hopes   and 


S2  CRUISE    IN    THE    SOUTH    ATLANTIC. 

disappointments  attendant  on  a  whaler's  life.  Whales 
are  rarely  seen  oftener  than  once  a  week,  even  in  the 
best  "cruising  grounds"  of  the  Pacific,  and  sometimes 
month  after  month  intervenes,  without  discovering  a 
single  whale. 

I  have  been  thus  minute  in  transcribing  daily  occur- 
rences, to  exhibit  the  excitement  and  animation  that 
pervade  a  whaleship,  whenever  whales  are  seen,  and  also 
to  represent  the  toilsome  duties  connected  with  the  whal- 
ing business.  There  is  no  mode  of  life,  it  appears  to  me, 
requiring  so  great  a  variety  of  talent,  as  the  seafaring  busi- 
ness. Every  sailor  must  be  a  "jack  of  all  trades  ;"  he  must 
have  mechanical  talent  sufficient  for  making  all  repairs 
upon  the  sails,  rigging,  iron  and  woodwork  of  the  ship ; 
and  as  he  is  absent  from  port  for  months  together,  he 
must  have  a  talent  for  shoemaking  and  tailoring.  With 
regard  to  the  mending  of  old  clothes,  the  crew  are 
indefatigable.  Coats  and  pantaloons  which  a  tailor  in 
any  christian  country  would  pronounce  to  be  »  unsea- 
worthy,"  they  work  upon,  and  cover  over  with  patches 
of  various  colors,  until  not  a  vestige  of  the  original  is 
left.  Flannels  are  variegated  in  a  wonderfully  fanciful 
manner  by  the  many  gay  colors  with  which  they  are 
darned.  The  performances  of  the  men  with  their 
needles,  are  however  by  no  means  contemptible. 

A  genuine  son  of  the  ocean,  can  almost  always  be 
recognized  by  his  costume  and  balancing  gait.  He 
disdains  the  confinement  of  a  pair  of  suspenders  which 
would  impede  the  action  of  his  arms  in  pulling  and 
working  about  the  rigging ;  but  his  pantaloons  of  very 
ample  dimensions,  fit  tight  to  the  waist,  and  are  secured 
by  a  leathern  belt,  buckled  around  him,  attached  to 
which  is  his  inseparable  companion,  a  " sheath-knife" 
with  a  blade  about  six  inches  long.     This  he  constantly 


HABITS    OF    SAILORS.  83 

uses  in  his  employment  about  the  ship,  and  when  his 
dinner  is  ready,  it  carves  his  meat. 

The  dialect  on  board  would  be  very  amusing  to  a 
landsman.  For  "ladling  out  soup  from  the  turreen," 
they  would  say,  "bailing  out  soup  from  the  keeler." 
The  sounding  lead  is  called  the  "blue  pigeon,"  and  the 
signal  flag  for  a  pilot,  displayed  at  the  foremast  head, 
goes  by  the  name  of  "Blue  Peter."  A  quadrant  re- 
ceives the  very  undignified  and  unphilosophical  name 
of  a  "  hog-yoke."  There  are  also  numerous  phrases  ta- 
ken from  the  maneuvres  of  a  ship,  and  nautical  similes 
are  introduced  into  conversation,  some  of  which  are  ex- 
tremely forcible,  if  well  understood.  Living  upon  an 
element,  every  aspect  of  which  is  an  object  of  solicitude 
to  him,  the  sailor  becomes  a  close  observer  of  what  takes 
place  around  him ;  and  accustomed  to  face  danger  in 
some  of  its  most  terrific  forms,  he  acquires  a  hardihood 
of  character,  and  an  independence  of  mind,  which  the  cir- 
cumstances in  which  he  is  placed  are  so  well  fitted  to 
produce. 

Sailors  almost  universally  make  use  of  tobacco  in  the 
forms  of  smoking  or  chewing.  Their  delicious  junk  is 
carried  in  their  pockets  along  with  a  clasp  knife,  sundry 
bits  of  rope  yarn,  and  a  variety  of  other  things.  From 
the  moment  they  "  turn  out,"  a  large  quid  is  introduced, 
to  be  renewed  as  often  as  occasion  requires,  until  they 
"  turn  in  "  again.  Some  of  the  men  have  laid  in  from 
fifty  to  seventy  pounds  of  tobacco  as  their  solace  for  the 
voyage,  and  will  probably  have  to  obtain  a  fresh  supply 
from  the  captain  before  they  return  home.  It  is  em- 
phatically the  sailor's  solace  in  the  watches  of  the  stormy 
night.  In  the  evening  the  sailor  takes  his  pipe,  and 
seated  upon  the  windlass    forgets    the    hardships   he 


84  CRUISE     IN    THE    SOUTH    ATLANTIC. 

constantly  experiences  in  the  exhilarating  fumes  of  the 
narcotic. 

There  are  over  two  thousand  pounds  of  tobacco  on 
board  belonging  to  the  ship's  stores,  all  of  which  will  be 
applied  to  the  use  of  the  crew,  or  bartered  away  with 
the  natives  of  the  places  we  happen  to  visit,  in  the  Pa- 
cific, who  are  said  to  be  exceedingly  fond  of  it. 

Thursday,  Dec.  19.  I  have  just  been  upon  deck 
amusing  myself  with  the  performances  of  Mr.  Freeman 
upon  the  violin,  accompanied  by  his  sable  fellow-min- 
strel, the  steward.  It  is  a  beautiful  evening,  although 
the  "  struggling  moonbeams'  misty  light "  is  but  dimly 
reflected  from  the  waters. 

The  men  were  for  the  most  part  assembled  between 
the  tryworks  and  the  mainmast,  where  some  sand  was 
sprinkled  upon  the  deck  for  the  convenience  of  the  dan- 
cers. Mr.  Freeman  was  perched  upon  an  inverted 
bucket  placed  in  the  frame  work  of  the  blacksmith's 
forge — an  apparatus  looking  very  much  like  those  portly 
old  fashioned  arm  chairs,  that  have  long  since  gone  out 
of  date.  When  every  thing  was  ready,  Mr.  Freeman 
rose  up,  and  with  many  bows,  requested  "  the  gentlemen 
to  digest  themselves  into  readiness  to  make  a  few  moles- 
tions  on  the  floor."  Accompanying  this  invitation  with 
sundry  flourishes  of  his  fiddle  bow,  he  commenced  saw- 
ing away  in  the  most  enthusiastic  manner,  but  perceiv- 
ing that  his  exertions  did  not  meet  with  corresponding 
effort,  he  suddenly  stopped  in  the  middle  of  one  of  his 
most  brilliant  strains,  and  indignantly  enquired  "What 
ails  you  there  Tom  and  Dave ;  why  don't  you  dance  ? 
A'nt  you  going  to  exasperate  (exhibit)  a  little  of  the 
light  fantastic?"  This  eloquent  appeal  was  irresistible, 
and  the  dance  proceeded  to  our  great  amusement  until 
eight  bells  (eight  o'clock)  when  the  fiddle  became  silent, 


ANNOYANCES    ON    BOARD.  85 

and  all  hands  dispersed,  with  the  exception  of  those  on 
duty.  * 

Monday,  Dec.  23.  For  some  time  past  the  weather 
has  been  squally  and  unpleasant.  The  wind  usually 
moderates  towards  night,  but  in  the  morning  increases 
again,  and  blows  fresh  about  the  middle  of  the  day.  It 
comes  from  the  eastward,  and  its  regular  increase  and 
decrease  is  owing  to  the  action  of  the  sun's  rays,  which 
in  the  morning  pouring  down  upon  the  continent  of 
South  America,  rarities  the  air  to  such  a  degree  that  the 
sea  air  flows  in  with  considerable  force,  extending  two 
or  three  hundred  miles  beyond  the  coast ;  and  towards 
night  the  wind  goes  down  as  the  sun  recedes. 

The  air  is  cool  and  pleasant  during  the  day,  but  at 
night  to  sleep  in  my  hot  and  confined  state-room,  is  al- 
most impossible.  Add  to  this  the  annoying  presence  of 
the  black-legged  gentry  about  an  inch  and  a  quarter 
long,  that  we  have  taken  some  slight  cognizance  of  be- 
fore. These  rascals  with  their  long  antennae  extending 
out  upon  each  side  of  their  eyes,  and  their  wings  folded 
up,  have  a  truly  formidable  appearance.  They  are  not 
peculiar  to  ships,  however,  but  are  well  known,  though 
unwelcome  visiters,  in  many  a  kitchen,  racing  about  in 
every  direction,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  frugal  house- 
wives. In  warm  weather  they  swarm  about  in  prodi- 
gious numbers,  and  at  their  "  gatherings  "  make  a  noise 
like  a  flock  of  quails  among  the  dry  leaves  of  the  forest. 
They  are  extremely  voracious,  and  destroy  almost  every 
thing  they  can  find ;  their  teeth  are  so  sharp,  the  sailors 
say,  that  they  will  eat  off  the  edge  of  a  razor. 

Thursday,  Dec.  26.  Yesterday  was  Christmas,  the 
commencement  of  the  holidays,  celebrated  with  such 
hearty  good  will  by  all  our  dear  friends  in  America. 

Early  in  the  morning,  Mr.  Freeman  made  his  appear- 

8 


86         CRUISE     IN    THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 

ance  in  the  cabin,  wishing  us  all  round  "  Merry  Christ- 
mas, and  that  all  subsequious  occasions  might  be  felici- 
tating." 

Our  dinner  was  very  palatable,  although  limited  to 
salt  pork  and  mush,  a  truly  temperate  feast  for  Christ- 
mas. Nor  were  we  wreathed  with  gay  festoons  of  ever- 
greens, but  around  us  the  deep  blue  sea  breaking  in  ma- 
ny a  foaming  crest,  and  sparkling  at  night  with  myriads 
of  golden  spangles,  was  our  only  drapery. 

Owing  to  the  squally  weather  we  had  a  few  days 
since,  we  left  our  cruising  ground  in  latitude  17°  south, 
and  drove  on  in  a  south-westerly  course  before  the  wind. 
Although  we  are  impelled  by  a  powerful  breeze,  yet  the 
heat,  particularly  at  night,  is  very  oppressive  in  the 
cabin.  I  have  been  so  much  incommoded  by  it  for  sev- 
eral nights  past,  that  I  determined  to  try  sleeping  upon 
deck.  Accordingly,  with  a  boat  sail,  I  made  a  kind  of 
tent  near  the  stern  of  the  ship,  and  with  my  cloak  wrap- 
ped around  me,  stretched  myself  out  upon  deck  to  sleep. 
I  have  often  before  heard  of  the  virtues  of  a  hard  bed, 
but  have  never  tested  them  so  fully  before. 

The  deck  of  our  ship  usually  presents  a  very  busy 
scene.  The  blacksmith  is  plying  his  bellows  and  the 
cooper  and  the  carpenter  have  each  enough  to  do  in  their 
respective  mechanical  employments.  No  one  is  allow- 
ed to  be  idle,  with  one  exception,  and  he  often  "  lends  a 
hand  "  whenever  he  may  be  of  use  ;  and  in  studies  or 
mechanical  contrivances,  leads  a  diligent  life  and  makes 
the  time  pass  away  very  pleasantly. 
»  There  is  nothing  I  would  urge  upon  the  invalid  go- 
ing to  sea  for  his  health,  of  so  much  importance  as  a  va- 
riety of  regular  occupations  which  shall  employ  all  his 
time,  and  avert  the  first  approaches  of  ennui.     It  is  the 


EMPLOYMENTS    OF    THE    MEN.  87 

only  way  to  relieve  the  otherwise  insupportable  monot- 
ony of  a  long  voyage. 

There  is  always  a  plenty  of  work  to  be  done  aboard 
a  ship3  to  employ  the  men  in  the  watch  upon  deck. 
When  there  is  nothing  else  to  do,  they  pick  to  pieces 
old  ropes,  and  splice  together  the  separate  yarns,  which 
are  then  twisted  together  and  form  spu?i  yarn.  The 
apparatus  made  use  of  consists  of  a  heavy  wheel  of  about 
eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  giving  momentum  to  an 
axle  about  three  feet  in  length  upon  the  end  of  which 
farthest  from  the  wheel,  is  the  spindle,  to  which  motion 
is  communicated  by  means  of  a  rope  wound  around  the 
axle  two  or  three  times,  drawn  tight,  and  relaxed  alter- 
nately, until  the  required  velocity  is  produced.  The 
machine  is  set  upon  one  of  the  windlass-bitts,  and  the 
yarns  lead  along  the  deck  as  far  back  as  the  mizzen 
mast.  As  the  spindle  revolves,  the  man  who  makes  the 
spun  yarn,  commencing  close  to  the  spindle,  moves  back- 
wards from  it,  rubbing  the  yarns  vigorously  witri^a  piece 
of  cloth  dipped  in  oil,  so  as  to  render  the  spun  yarn  fine 
and  smooth.  In  this  way,  thousands  of  yards  of  spun 
yarn  are  made  every  voyage,  an  indispensable  article 
aboard  ship.  Three  yarns  are  also  often  spun  together 
by  means  of  three  spindles  to  which  motion  is  commu- 
nicated by  large  tooth  wheels  acting  upon  three  smaller 
ones. 

All  the  shrouds  and  stays  of  a  ship  are  carefully 
protected  from  the  friction  of  the  running  rigging,  by 
being  "  served"  or  wound  around  with  spun  yarn. 
Some  of  them  are  covered  with  mats  of  spun  yarn 
woven  very  neatly  together.  These  are  usually  home- 
made, and  the  process  of  manufacture  is  as  follows. 

A  number  of  spun  yarns  corresponding  to  the  required 
breadth  of  the  mat,  are  stretched  parallel  to  one  another 


88      CRUISE     IN     THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 

across  the  deck,  passing  through  a  frame  work  of  paral- 
lel bars,  which  retains  every  other  one  and  allows  the 
remainder  to  move  freely  between  them.  The  person 
who  works  the  frame,  carries  it  down,  and  consequently, 
the  spun  yarns  retained  by  the  bars,  are  thrown  down 
below  the  level  of  the  other ;  the  weaver  stands  ready 
with  two  balls  of  twine,  which  he  passes  across  the 
yarns  between  the  separate  ranks,  and  the  work  is 
rendered  compact  by  means  of  the  sioord,  a  long,  thin 
piece  of  hard  wood,  playing  between  the  ranks  of  spun 
yarn.  The  frame  is  now  raised,  and  the  same  steps  are 
repeated,  until  the  mat  is  finished.  To  prevent  the 
charing  of  the  rigging  and  spars,  there  are  other  kinds  of 
mats  made  use  of,  as  well  as  "  Scotchmen,"  of  various 
descriptions.  Upon  different  occasions  during  the  voyage, 
the  entire  rigging  is  "  set  up"  or  tightened,  and  every  few 
days  some  new  rope  is  to  be  substituted  for  one  which 
has  become  stranded.  In  the  repairing  of  the  sails,  the 
sewing  of  rigging,  knotting  and  splicing  ropes  in  every 
variety  of  form,  and  the  care  of  the  boats,  the  officers  find 
employment  enough  for  the  men  while  upon  duty. 
Every  Saturday  afternoon,  the  masts  are  "slushed 
down"  by  the  men  in  their  turn,  commencing  with  the 
royal  masts  and  descending  to  the  caps  of  the  lower 
masts. 

During  the  hours  of  work,  no  trifling  of  any  kind  is 
allowed,  and  any  one  seen  indulging  in  "  skylarking," 
subjects  himself  to  the  danger  of  being  sent  aloft,  or 
stationed  at  the  wheel  for  many  tedious  hours,  besides 
going  without  his  usual  allowance. 
,:  After  supper,  however,  from  six  to  eight  o'clock,  is  the 
season  for  amusements  of  every  variety.  The  officers 
are  conversing  together  in  the  after  part  of  the  ship, 
while  the  men  assembled    around    the  windlass,  are 


EMPLOYMENTS    OF   THE    MEN.  89 

smoking  their  pipes,  "  spinning  yarns,"  or  listening  to  a 
song  from  Mr.  Freeman,  or  dancing  to  the  sound  of  his 
violin.  It  is  sometimes  supposed  that  but  very  little 
discipline  is  observed  at  sea,  except  aboard  a  man  of 
war ;  a  wrong  impression  however,  for  although  our 
ship  makes  no  higher  pretensions  than  that  of  a  whaler, 
yet  obedience  is  as  well  understood  here,  as  on  the  decks 
of  a  line  of  battle  ship.  It  is  necessary  that  such  should 
be  the  case ;  for  in  all  stations  of  command  over  others, 
the  forms  of  respect  must  be  rigidly  adhered  to,  or  all 
authority  ceases. 

8* 


CHAPTER  VII. 

APPROACH  TO  CAPE  HORN. 


Gale  of  wind — Game  of  these  seas — The  porpoise — Turtle 
— Pilot  fish — Squally  weather — Preparations  for  doubling 
Cape  Horn — Novel  aspect  of  the  dhjrnal  revolutions,  and 
of  the  celestial  bodies  in  these  high  latitudes — Capture 
of  an  Albatross — Preparations  for  the  cape. 


Monday,  Dec.  30. — Yesterday  morning  after  a  rainy, 
uncomfortable  night,  the  wind  began  to  veer  around  to 
the  southward,  increasing  until  it  blew  up  into  a  gale. 
The  ship  was  "laid  to"  under  a  close  reefed  maintopsail, 
mizzen  staysail,  and  foretopmast  staysail  with  every 
prospect  of  a  stormy  night.  A  ship  is  said  to  "  lay  to"  in 
a  gale  of  wind,  when  all  the  sails  are  carefully  furled 
with  the  exception  of  those  that  are  necessary  to  enable 
her  to  present  her  head  to  the  sea,  in  which  case  she 
surmounts  the  surges  instead  of  being  swept  by  them. 
It  is  always  advisable  to  carry  as  much  sail  as  prudence 
allows  to  prevent  the  ship  from  rolling  to  windward,  a 
situation  of  particular  exposure  to  the  fury  of  the  sea. 

About  midnight,  the  wind  began  to  abate,  and  this 
morning  we  are  enjoying  a  clear  and  cool  atmosphere, 
reminding  me  of  a  lovely  morning  in  September,  at 
home,  with  the  white  clouds  sailing  along  the  pure 
depths  of  the  sky. 

Soon  after  breakfast,  a  school  of  porpoises  was  an- 
nounced as  playing  around  the  bows  of  the  ship.  I 
watched  them  for  some  time  indulging  in  their  playful 


SEA-GAME.  91 

gambols,  now  springing  several  feet  out  of  water,  then 
darting  across  the  ship's  path,  and  returning  again  with 
great  velocity.  Their  sport  was  not  long  undisturbed. 
One  of  the  boatsteerers  stationed  himself  with  a  harpoon, 
upon  the  martingale  guy  under  the  bowsprit.  The 
deadly  weapon  is  poised  and  suddenly  darted  at  two  or 
three  of  them  in  quick  succession,  as  they  shoot  across 
the  bow  of  the  ship.  At  the  third  plunge  of  the  harpoon, 
the  poor  animal  is  pierced  through  the  neck,  and  the 
barbed  iron  is  bent  completely  around  and  caught  upon 
the  shaft,  so  that  there  is  no  chance  for  escape.  In  his 
agony  he  springs  out  of  water,  and  throws  himself 
wildly  in  every  direction,  while  the  blood  is  streaming 
out  from  the  deep  gashes  in  his  neck.  The  moment  he 
is  struck,  a  dozen  hands  are  hold  of  the  line,  and  the 
poor  animal  is  drawn  upon  deck  respiring  heavily  from 
the  open  wound. 

The  porpoise  belongs  to  the  class  cetacea,  and  of 
course  is  enveloped  in  blubber,  usually  about  half  an 
inch  in  thickness.  He  is  also  obliged  to  rise  to  the 
surface  of  the  sea  to  breathe,  a  distinguishing  character- 
istic of  the  cetaceous  family. 

The  porpoise  is  a  well  known  visitant  of  our  harbors 
and  bays,  but  this  species  is  somewhat  different  from 
those  we  meet  at  sea,  of  which  there  are  also  several 
varieties.  The  specimen  we  took  to-day  was  of  the 
most  common  species.  He  was  about  five  feet  in  length, 
with  strong  pectoral  fins,  thick  dorsal  fin,  and  with 
broad  flukes,  moving  horizontally  like  those  of  the  whale. 

The  Porpoise  rarely  descends  to  any  great  depth,  and 
is  said  to  manifest  a  strong  aversion  to  the  contentions 
of  the  angry  waters  in  a  gale  of  wind,  which  he  avoids 
by  an  instinctive  prescience  of  its  approach.  I  have  heard 
that  when  great  numbers  of  them  are  seen  moving 


92  APPROACH    TO    CAPE     HORN. 

swiftly  on  a  given  course,  a  gale  may  be  expected  to 
blow  up  from  the  quarter  from  which  they  came. 

"  These  fleetest  coursers  of  the  finny  race 
When  threatening  clouds  th'  etherial  vault  deface, 
Their  route  to  leeward  still  sagacious  form, 
To  shun  the  fury  of  th'  approaching  storm. 

Falconer's  Shipwreck. 

The  blubber  was  very  soon  stripped  off,  and  the  car- 
cass suspended  near  the  cook's  galley,  to  the  great  de- 
light of  those  that  have  not  tasted  any  fresh  meat  since 
we  left  America.  Porpoise  meat  is  of  a  dark  color,  re- 
sembling the  liver  of  land  animals,  and  is  as  tender  as 
the  tenderest  beef  steak.  The  lower  jaw  of  the  por- 
poise contains  a  quantity  of  very  fine  oil  lodged  in  the 
cavities  where  it  unites  with  the  skull  bone.  It  is  used 
by  watchmakers  and  others  for  lubricating  delicate  ma- 
chinery. The  oil  extracted  from  the  blubber  is  also  of 
very  superior  quality,  but  a  single  porpoise  rarely  yields 
over  a  gallon  and  a  half. 

The  flesh  of  the  whale  immediately  investing  the  car- 
case, is  of  a  dark  purple  color,  with  coarse  fibres  having 
numerous  white  tendons  traversing  the  mass,  and  is 
hardly  considered  edible,  although  his  tongue  is  esteem- 
ed a  delicacy  by  those  that  have  seen  nothing  but  "salt 
junk"  for  a  long  time. 

Specimens  of  the  porpoise  have  been  served  up  at  ta- 
ble, a  dish  by  no  means  contemptible.  This  evening 
we  partook  of  rather  a  novel  dish — "  flippers  "  flavored 
with  porpoise's  brains  !  I  made  a  very  hearty  supper, 
but  was  ignorant  of  the  nature  of  my  repast,  until  it 
was  afterwards  explained  to  me.  Some  persons  doubt- 
less, would  be  disgusted  at  the  idea  of  making  porpoise 
meat  an  article  of  food ;  but  there  are  many  things  we  con- 
ceive a  disrelish  for  from  mere  prejudice.     One  part  of 


SEA     GAME.  93 

t 

the  world  abhors  swine's  flesh,  while  the  rest  esteem  it  a 
particular  delicacy.  The  natives  of  some  of  the  Pacific 
Islands  consider  baked  dog  a  great  luxury,  and  a  trick 
served  upon  the  officers  of  a  certain  man-of-war  at  one  of 
those  islands,  shows  how  far  prejudice  operates  in  produ- 
cing a  preference  for  certain  articles  of  food,  and  an  an- 
tipathy to  others.  At  dinner  some  of  the  officers  were 
exclaiming  against  the  fondness  for  baked  dog  exhibited 
by  the  natives  at  one  of  their  grand  leasts,  while  the 
por/c  they  were  feasting  upon,  they  pronounced  to  be  the 
best  flavored  they  had  ever  tasted.  Unconsciously  to 
them,  however,  a  baked  dog  had  been  brought  upon 
the  table  with  a  pig's  head  sewed  on  in  place  of  his 
own ;  a  deception  they  did  not  discover  until  they  had 
participated  largely  in  the  reprobated  dish.  Their  dis- 
gust may  be  easily  imagined. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  31.  The  wind  this  morning  died 
away,  and  a  calm  succeeded  with  a  smooth  sea,  the  first 
we  have  had  since  we  left  America.  The  blue  sky  was 
serene,  giving  to  the  wide  spreading  waters  its  own 
beautiful  tint.  The  air  too  was  delightfully  mild,  in- 
stead of  the  chilly  temperature  of  yesterday ;  and  we 
were  silent  and  alone  upon  the  mighty  waters,  save  a 
distant  sail  upon  our  starboard  quarter. 

To  diversify  the  occasion  a  turtle  made  his  appearance 
on  our  starboard  beam.  A  boat  was  lowered  and  was 
darting  in  pursuit,  while  I  ran  up  into  the  mizzen  rig- 
ging to  get  a  sight  of  the  animal — a  glimpse  of  which  I 
could  just  catch  as  the  sunbeams  glistened  from  his 
head.  He  was  swimming  indolently  upon  the  surface 
of  the  water  about  half  a  mile  off,  and  did  not  appear  to 
be  alarmed  at  the  approach  of  the  boat,  until  receiving  a 
thrust  of  the  lance  through  both  shells,  he  was  hauled 
on  board  the  boat  after  some  ineffectual  struggles  to  escape. 


94  APPROACH    TO    CAPE    HORN. 

This  variety  is  called  the  "  Logger  Head "  turtle  by 
those  on  board,  and  I  adopt  the  name  from  ignorance  of 
his  proper  one.  He  was  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches 
in  length,  having  a  shell  much  arched,  and  soft,  unfit 
therefore,  for  any  use,  although  it  resembled  in  color 
that  used  by  the  combmakers  at  home.  He  was  very 
fat,  and  made  a  delicious  soup  for  supper.  The  meat 
was  white  and  very  delicate  like  that  of  the  breast  of  a 
fowl.  We  are  living  upon  the  fat  of  the  ocean !  por- 
poise steaks,  cutlets  and  fricassee,  with  turtle  soup  intro- 
duced very  appropos  by  way  of  variety. 

January  1,  1840.  The  weather  has  been  calm  like 
that  of  yesterday,  and  several  other  turtles  have  been 
seen  basking  upon  the  surface  of  the  sea.  A  boat  was 
lowered  for  one  this  afternoon,  but  he  went  down  just  as 
he  was  about  to  receive  his  death  wound.  Another 
came  very  near  being  run  over  by  the  ship  this  evening, 
as  he  lay  motionless  and  apparently  asleep  upon  the 
water. 

This  morning  hearing  from  some  one  that  a  pilot  fish 
had  stationed  himself  under  the  bow  of  the  ship,  I  made 
ready  a  fish  line,  and  placed  myself  under  the  bowsprit 
to  try  my  luck  upon  him.  After  many  unsuccessful  ef- 
forts, and  when  my  patience  was  nearly  exhausted,  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  him  fairly  hooked. 

The  pilot  fish  varies  in  length  from  eight  to  fifteen 
inches  which  was  the  length  of  the  specimen  I  captur- 
ed. His  dorsal  and  ventral  fins  are  extended  backwards 
to  his  tail,  near  which  projects  a  narrow  fin,  set  horizon- 
tally upon  each  side  of  his  body.  His  lateral  and  pecto- 
ral fins  are  large,  and  the  former,  together  with  the  ex- 
tremities of  his  tail,  are  beautifully  tipped  with  white. 
The  color  upon  his  back  is  of  a  deep  indigo  blue,  sha- 
ded off  into  a  lighter  tint  in  the  lower  part  of  his  body, 


SEA    GAME.  95 

having  three  or  four  broad  bands  of  a  deeper  shade,  ex- 
tending three-fourths  of  the  way  around.  The  pilot 
fish  is  almost  always  seen  in  company  with  the  shark 
swimming  along,  side  by  side  with  his  ferocious  mate. 
He  frequently  accompanies  ships  also,  for  many  hours, 
and  sometimes,  days  together,  hovering  about  the  bow  or 
stern,  and  every  little  while  darting  off  upon  his  prey. 

Thursday,  Jan.  2.  The  wind  has  been  increasing 
since  morning,  and  now  blows  rather  fresh.  Towards 
the  latter  part  of  the  afternoon,  the  welcome  cry  "  There 
she  bre-e-ches,"  brought  every  one  upon  deck — the  ship 
was  braced  up  sharp  on  the  wind,  and  we  were  dashing 
forward  to  make  out  what  kind  of  animal  it  was  that 
was  seen.  We  stood  on  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  gave 
up  the  chase,  as  the  alarm  was  occasioned  by  a  school 
of  "killers,"  that  were  throwing  themselves  out  of  water. 
They  are  a  species  of  cetacea  considerably  larger  than 
the  porpoise,  and  are  so  called  by  the  whalers  from  their 
attacking  the  young  of  the  sperm  whale  and  eating  them 
up  by  piece-meal.  All  marine  animals  that  are  not 
known  to  whalers  by  a  particular  name,  receive  the  gen- 
eral appellation  of  "  spirits." 

Monday,  Jan.  6.  On  Saturday  last,  rain  fell  at  inter- 
vals all  day.  When  I  arose  in  the  morning,  I  perceived 
an  unusual  color  in  the  ocean  ;  it  was  of  a  greenish  tint, 
unlike  the  deep  blue  over  which  we  have  been  travers- 
ing, and  I  attributed  it  at  first  to  the  clouds  which  tint 
the  sea  with  many  a  varied  hue.  Capt.  R.,  however,  in- 
formed me  that  the  change  in  the  color  of  the  sea  was 
owing  to  the  comparative  shallowness  of  the  water,  al- 
though we  were  still  off  soundings.  Nearer  in  shore  are 
extensive  banks  like  the  Newfoundland  banks,  which  are 
frequented  by  right  whales  at  certain  seasons  of  the 
year  to  feed  upon  shrimp,  blood-red  animalculae   that 


96  APPROACH     TO     CAPE     HORN. 

sometimes  spread  for  acres   upon   the   surface   of  the 
sea. 

Towards  night,  the  wind  hauled  around  to  the  south 
south  west,  and  came  in  strong  puffs,  increasing  into 
a  gale  before  morning.  The  pitching  and  rolling  of 
the  ship,  made  my  sleep  very  irregular,  and  as  I  held 
myself  in  my  berth,  the  progress  of  the  gale  could 
be  easily  traced  not  only  by  the  roar  of  the  wind 
growing  louder  and  louder,  but  also  by  the  orders 
for  taking  in  sail  after  sail.  I  was  not  fully  aware  of 
the  violence  of  the  gale  however,  until  the  command 
from  the  officer  of  the  watch,  "  Take  in  the  foresail," 
indicated  that  the  wind  was  rising  into  a  heavy  blow, 
that  began  to  savor  of  Cape  Horn. 

Between   sleeping  and   waking  however,   the   night 
passed  away,  and  at  an  early  hour  I  went  upon  deck. 
The  sea  was  lashed  into  foam,  and  breaking  in  broad 
white  crests,  from  which  the  spray  was  blown  like  sleet 
in  winter  on  shore.    There  was  a  heavy  swell  also  which 
occasionally  threw  the  ship  over  on  her  side  so  far,  that 
the  sea  came  pouring  in  over  the  lee  rail  and  dashing 
across  the  deck,  when  she  righted  again.    The  boats  had 
all  been  raised  up  so  as  to  touch  the  davits  from  which 
they  are  suspended,  and  then  "  turned  down,"  with  the 
keel  outwards,  which  protects  them  from  the  sea  in  a 
storm.    The  watch  upon  deck  were  all  collected  together 
aft,  as  all  the  forward  part  of  the  ship  was  repeatedly 
flooded  with  the  seas  that  broke  over  her.     We  were 
"  lying  to"  under  the  mizzen  staysail,  close  reefed  main- 
topsail   and    fbretopmast   staysail.     About   ten   o'clock, 
wore  ship  around  on  the  other  tack   with  her  head 
pointing  towards  the  continent.      The  gale  was  at  its 
height  about  noon,  when  it  blew  much  harder  than  it 
has   done   since   we   left  the  United  States.     Towards 


PREPARATIONS    FOR    THE    CAPE.  97 

evening,  it  moderated  down,  and  to-day  (Monday,)  there 
has  been  a  perfect  calm,  with  not  wind  enough  to  steady 
the  ship,  and  she  has  floated  like  a  log  upon  the  water, 
tossed  about  by  the  swell  that  still  continues  high. 

The  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  yesterday,  was 
cold,  and  judging  from  my  feelings,  1  presume  the  ther- 
mometer would  have  stood  in  the  neighborhood  of  thirty 
two  degrees,  or  the  freezing  point.  The  wind  was  very 
piercing,  the  more  so  from  our  sudden  transition  from  a 
warm  atmosphere.  To  day,  however,  the  air  has  been 
mild,  and  this  evening  as  the  sun  was  setting  behind  the 
heaving  ocean,  in  golden  splendor,  a  light  breeze  sprang 
up  from  the  north-east  and  wafted  us  on  our  course. 

For  several  days  past,  many  birds  of  various  kinds, 
have  followed  in  the  wake  of  the  ship,  and  during  the 
gale  of  yesterday,  a  large  flock  hovered  around  us.  They 
are  about  the  size  of  wild  ducks,  and  skim  beautifully 
over  the  bursting  wave,  or  rise  swiftly  upon  the  rushing 
storm.  Often  they  alight  and  ride  over  the  billows  as  if 
the  ocean  were  their  native  realm.  To-day,  a  couple  of 
Albatrosses,  a  large  bird,  peculiar  to  the  south  seas,  took 
a  circuit  around  us,  then  sailed  slowly  away,  until  we 
lost  sight  of  them  in  the  distance. 

A  large  school  of  porpoises  passed  us  this  afternoon, 
numbering  forty  or  fifty,  I  should  think.  They  ran 
under  the  ship,  then  darted  off,  frequently  springing  out 
of  the  water  to  the  distance  of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet,  and 
exhibiting  a  dozen  or  more  in  the  air  at  a  time. 

Tuesday,  Jan.  7.  Latitude  at  noon  40°  08'.  It  has 
been  blowing  hard  from  the  north  all  day,  with  some 
indications  of  another  gale,  and  we  are  now  making 
active  preparations  for  the  weather  we  expect  to  contend 
with  off  Cape  Horn.  This  morning  the  royal  masts  were 
sent  down,   the  anchors  brought  in  upon  deck    and 


98  APPROACH    TO     CAPE     HORN. 

secured,  and  the  spars  and  rigging  were  fully  examined, 
and  if  defective,  repaired.  The  waist  and  bow  boats 
were  also  taken  aboard  and  turned  keel  upwards  upon 
the  tryworks. 

There  are  many  ships,  particularly  merchantmen, 
that  do  not  send  down  their  lofty  spars  to  insure  them 
against  the  risk  of  being  carried  away  off  Cape  Horn. 
But  to  the  sperm  whaler,  who  is  to  be  absent  for  several 
years  from  home,  and  whose  wanderings  often  lead  him 
out  of  the  reach  of  assistance,  these  precautionary  mea- 
sures are  the  part  of  wisdom. 

Wednesday,  Jan.  8.  Latitude  at  noon,  43°  39', 
exhibiting  a  difference  of  latitude  of  3°  31'  during  the 
last  twenty-four  hours  ;  as  our  course  has  been  oblique  to 
a  meridian,  the  distance  sailed  over  since  yesterday  noon 
is  somewhat  greater  than  this. 

Large  flocks  of  birds  are  following  in  our  wake,  and  seve- 
ral schools  of  porpoises  have  been  sporting  in  merry  gam- 
bols around  our  bow ;  one  of  the  latter  was  struck  this  morn- 
ing, but  he  made  his  escape,  as  the  iron  "  drew"  or  tore 
out  of  the  wound  in  his  violent  struggles.  In  such 
cases,  it  is  said  the  wounded  animal  is  immediately 
pursued  and  devoured  by  his  voracious  comrades.  In 
allusion  to  this  unnatural  propensity  of  the  porpoise,  one 
of  the  officers  in  conversation  with  me,  made  use  of  a 
very  striking  simile  ;  "  if  a  man's  reputation  is  impaired," 
he  observed,  "the  whole  world  turn  upon  him,  like 
porpoises  that  instantly  attack  and  devour  a  wounded 
mate." 

Monday,  Jan.  30.  Cold  and  stormy  weather.  On 
Saturday  morning  last  we  were  struck  by  a  heavy 
squall  from  the  south  west  which  cam*  upon  us  rather 
unexpectedly.  All  hands  were  called.  "  Let  go  the  hal- 
liards— clew  up  the  topgallant  sails — run  down  the  fly- 


SUFFERINGS    FROM    THE    COLD.  99 

ing  gib— brail  up  the  spanker — maintack  and  sheet  let 
go  and  clew  up,  haul  out  the  reeftackles,— jump  up  there, 
jump  up,  put  two  reefs  in  the  topsails,  and  furl  every- 
thing snug."  Such  were  the  hurried  orders  that  were 
issued  j  in  a  few  moments,  however,  the  squall  passed 
over  and  a  calm  succeeded  for  a  few  hours,  when  the 
wind  hauled  more  to  the  southward,  and  continued  to 
increase,  until  a  heavy  gale  brought  us  to  under  short 
sail.  I  have  never  seen  such  a  sea  as  there  was  yester- 
day. In  every  direction,  "Like  mountains  the  billows 
tremendously  swell,"  and  as  they  came  rolling  on 
in  accumulated  masses  careering  with  their  surg- 
ing crests,  it  was  an  exhibition  of  sublimity  that 
could  not  fail  of  impressing  the  beholder  with  awe 
of  the  mighty  power  of  the  contending  elements. 
The  good  ship  trembled  in  every  timber  at  the  shock 
of  the  surges  that  broke  in  foam  from  her  weather 
side,  and  in  one  instance,  dashed  the  spray  high  upon 
the  main-topsail,  a  distance  of  fifty  feet.  Towards 
night,  (last  night,)  wore  ship,  and  headed  in  for 
the  continent.  In  executing  this  maneuvre,  the  fore- 
topmast  staysail  sheet  became  unhooked,  and  in  an 
instant  the  sail  split  in  two  with  a  loud  report. 

The  damp  air  of  the  sea  is  exceedingly  penetrating,  f 
and  one  feels  much  colder  with  the  thermometer  indica- 
ting a  given  temperature,  than  he  would  on  shore  with 
the  mercury  ranging  much  lower  upon  the  scale,  the  hu- 
midity impairing  the  non-conducting  powers  of  his  cloth- 
ing. Our  latitude  is  about  49°  south  not  far  from  one 
hundred  miles  to  the  northward  of  the  Falkland  Islands. 
The  days  are  very  long,  and  lengthening  rapidly ;  the 
sun  now  sets  after  eight  o'clock,  P.  M.,  and  twilight 
lingers  until  long  after  ten  o'clock,  when  after  an  inter- 
val of  a  couple  of  hours,  the  first  indications  of  dawn  are 


100  APPROACH    TO    CAPE    HORN. 


perceptible  in  the  east.  It  seems  very  strange  to  see  the 
sun  rising  in  the  south-east,  and,  reaching  but  a  low  alti- 
tude in  the  north  at  noon,  descend  into  the  sea  to  the 
south-west  of  us.  The  moon,  too,  has  the  appearance 
of  having  lost  her  place  in  the  sky,  to  wander  in  the 
northern  regions.  The  long  shadows  she  casts,  and  her 
dismal  light,  give  to  every  thing  a  peculiarly  gloomy  as- 
pect. The  Magellan  clouds  which  we  saw  soon  after 
crossing  the  equator,  have  rapidly  risen  towards  the  ze- 
nith in  our  progress  southward,  and  they  are  now  nearly 
over  head.  They  are  two  luminous  nebulae,  situated 
not  very  far  from  the  southern  pole,  about  15°  apart. 
The  larger  of  the  two  is  apparently  about  five  feet,  and 
the  smaller  about  three  feet  square. 

The  nearer  we  approach  Cape  Hom,  the  more  nume- 
rous are  the  sea  birds  that  accompany  the  ship.  Yester- 
day a  speckled  haglet  or  "  Cape  pigeon,"  as  he  is  some- 
times called,  continued  near  us  for  a  long  time,  occasion- 
ally coming  close  up  to  the  ship  as  she  "  lay  to,"  and 
alighting  upon  the  waves,  or  skimming  along  over  the 
boisterous  sea  with  his  little  web  feet. 

This  morning,  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  capture  two 
albatrosses  during  the  calm  that  succeeded  yesterday's 
gale.  A  long  cod  line  with  a  corresponding  fish  hook 
is  procured,  and  a  float  attached  to  it  about  two  feet  from 
the  end  to  prevent  its  sinking.  To  the  hook  is  secured 
a  piece  of  salt  pork  about  the  size  of  one's  fist,  which  is 
well  "  slushed  "  or  greased,  to  make  it  the  more  attractive, 
and  then  dropped  astern.  If  the  ship  is  moving  too  fast, 
the  albatross  feels  a  little  suspicious  of  the  appearance 
of  things,  and  will  not  alight ;  but  if  the  bait  just  trails 
along  upon  the  surface  of  the  sea,  after  flying  around  it 
two  or  three  times  and  looking  at  it  carefully,  with  his 
large  web  feet  spread  out  before  him,  he  dashes  down 


ALBATROSS.  101 

into  the  water  and  commences  a  furious  attack  upon  the 
pork.  A  jerk  is  given  upon  the  line,  and  the  hook  be- 
comes fixed  in  the  extremity  of  his  bill ;  and  then  with  a 
steady  and  careful  pull  he  is  hauled  aboard  ship.  Con- 
siderable skill  is  requisite  in  order  to  succeed,  for  even 
after  the  hook  fixes  itself  into  the  bill,  it  is  easily  detach- 
ed, unless  a  constant  strain  is  kept  upon  the  line. 

The  albatross,  or  "  gony,"  as  he  is  called  by  whale- 
men, is  an  immense  bird,  and  if  I  mistake  not,  is  found 
no  where  else  except  in  the  southern  regions.*  He  is 
apparently  about  twice  as  large  as  a  common  goose,  but 
this  is  owing  to  the  dense  coat  of  feathers  and  down  with 
which  he  is  invested,  which,  if  taken  off,  disclose  a  body 
by  no  means  as  large  as  one  would  suppose  from  his  ex- 
ternal appearance.  His  head  and  neck  are  very  strong, 
and  he  is  armed  with  a  sharp,  formidable  bill,  which  he 
uses  with  great  power ;  sufficient,  I  have  no  doubt,  to 
cut  off  a  man's  finger  at  a  single  bite.  His  wings  are 
very  large,  and  owing  to  their  great  extent  cannot  be 
folded  up  at  the  side  of  the  bird  with  much  compactness. 
His  tail  is  very  short  and  concealed  by  his  immense 
wings  when  they  are  closed. 

The  largest  specimen  captured,  measured  ten  and  a 
half  feet  from  tip  to  tip  of  his  expanded  wings.  His 
legs  are  short,  terminating  in  broad  web  feet,  with 
which  he  moves  gracefully  about  upon  the  waves.  Like 
all  the  anser  tribe,  his  walk  is  very  awkward,  and  when 
aboard  ship  he  is  unable  to  rise  from  the  deck.  In  ta- 
king flight  from  the  surface  of  the  sea,  he  runs  clumsily 
along,  spattering  the  water  with  his  broad  feet,  exhibit- 
ing the  most  awkward  efforts  to  rise.     But  when,  with 

*  Some  accounts  I  have  read  of  the  albatross  (Diomedia  Exulans)  assert 
that  vast  flocks  of  these  birds  are  to  be  seen  upon  the  coast  of  Kamschatka. 
(See  Encyclopedia  Perthensis.) 

9* 


102  APPROACH    TO    CAPE    HORN. 

his  wide  pinions  extended  to  the  breeze  he  seems  to  sail 
along  without  any  apparent  exertion,  or  skims  over  the 
heaving"  billows,  the  motions  of  the  albatross  are  pecu- 
liarly graceful.  If  kept  on  board  ship  for  a  short  time, 
the  albatross  becomes  sea-sick,  and  displays  his  state 
of  feeling  upon  deck,  a  rather  singular  circumstance, 
as  he  rides  the  waves  so  beautifully  in  a  gale  of 
wind. 

Tuesday,  Jan.  14.  This  morning  we  were  all  thrown 
into  excitement  by  the  welcome  cry  "There  she 
blo-o-ws  !?'  several  times  repeated  from  masthead.  The 
alarm  was  occasioned  by  two  right  whales,  being  in 
sight,  three  miles  or  more  distant.  Though  at  this  dis- 
tance, yet  the  species  to  which  they  belong  was  readily 
made  out  by  several  characteristics  known  to  the  expe- 
rienced whaler,  which  will  be  noticed  upon  some  future 
occasion. 

Two  of  the  boats  were  soon  lowered,  and  the  other 
two  soon  afterwards  were  launched  from  the  try-works 
and  sprang  forward  in  the  pursuit,  while  the  ship  was 
slowly  drawing  up  towards  the  scene  of  action.  At  one 
time  the  whales  came  up  within  a  short  distance  of  one 
of  the  boats,  which  was  "  hove  up  "  awaiting  their*  re- 
appearance upon  top  of  water.  The  boat  immediately 
wheeled  around,  and  running  up  between  them,  ranged 
along  side  the  larger.  The  harpoon  was  raised,  but 
with  the  quickness  of  thought,  the  whale  whirled  around 
and  instantly  disappeared. 

After  continuing  the  chase  for  an  hour  or  more  to  no 
purpose,  the  boat  returned.  At  one  time  the  whales  ap- 
proached within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  ship  :  they  float- 
ed sluggishly  upon  the  water,  blowing  the  spray  several 
feet  into  the  air,  with  a  heavy  respiration,  while  the 
waves  of  the  sea  dashed  over  them  in  foam. 


FIN    BACK    WHALES.  103 

The  failure  in  capturing  these  whales  is  a  serious  dis- 
appointment. For  although  right  whale  oil  is  only  one 
third  as  valuable  as  sperm,  yet  the  capture  of  a  right 
whale  that  would  make  one  hundred  barrels  of  oil, 
would  furnish  us  with  the  means  of  supplying  the  ship 
abundantly  with  fruits  and  vegetables  in  exchange  for 
it,  at  those  places  we  expect  to  visit.  What  aggravates 
the  disappointment  is  the  calm  and  delightful  weather 
we  have  had  all  day,  which,  though  rather  cool,  is  unu- 
sually serene  for  this  latitude,  and  would  be  very  favor- 
able for  disposing  of  a  "  fare  "  of  oil. 

The  ship  has  been  receiving  her  Cape  Horn  sails ; 
new  sails  have  been  substituted  for  those  that  are  old 
and  weak.  A  main  staysail  has  also  been  made  ready 
for  the  stormy  weather  we  must  soon  expect.  It  is  a 
triangular  sail  extending  from  the  main  top  down  to  the 
lower  part  of  the  foremast,  and  is  very  useful  to  steady 
the  ship  in  a  gale  of  wind  with  a  heavy  sea  running, 
and  in  some  degree  supplies  the  place  of  the  maintopsail 
in  case  it  should  give  way. 

Wednesday,  Jan.  15.  At  an  early  hour  this  morn- 
ing, I  was  roused  from  my  slumbers  by  the  bustle  upon 
deck,  and  by  the  cries  from  aloft  "  There  she  blo-o-ws 
— there  she  blo-o-ws !"  My  toilet  was  soon  completed, 
and  I  hurried  upon  deck,  when  to  my  chagrin  and  dis- 
appointment I  learned  that  the  alarm  was  occasioned  by 
a  large  number  of  fin  back  whales  making  their  appear- 
ance three  or  four  miles  off,  which  as  I  have  before  men- 
tioned are  very  rarely  attacked  by  the  whaler,  partly 
from  the  great  difficulty  of  the  capture,  and  partly  from 
the  inferior  quality  and  quantity  of  the  oil  obtained  from 
them.  This  evening,  a  whale  of  this  species  was  seen 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  ship,  but  was  passed 
by  without  farther  notice. 


104  APPROACH     TO    CAPE     HORN. 

Our  Cape  Horn  preparations  are  completed ;  every 
thing  has  been  brought  up  from  the  hold,  that  we  shall 
require  during  our  passage  around  the  Cape,  and  the 
hatches  barred  down  and  caulked.  We  are  all  clad  in 
our  warmest  dresses,  for  without  any  fire  on  board 
except  what  the  cook  keeps  up  in  the  galley,  one  re- 
quires a  plentiful  supply  of  warm  clothing.  The  over- 
coats worn  by  sailors,  are  known  by  rather  whimsical 
names.  There  are  two  kinds,  the  baboon  jacket,  a  short 
coat  without  any  skirts,  and  the  monkey  jacket,  differ- 
ing from  the  other  in  having  a  kind  of  ruffle  around  the 
lower  edge  answering  to  skirts. 

Friday,  Jan.  17.  In  conversing  with  one  of  the  men 
to-day,  he  informed  me  that  he  had  been  upon  the  Flo- 
rida Coast,  in  a  brig  chartered  by  the  United  States 
Government,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  military  stores 
to  the  army.  Among  other  things,  he  told  me  that  the 
brig  was  sent  with  a  strong  force  to  search  for  the  bodies 
of  a  detachment  of  men  supposed  to  have  been  cut  off  by 
the  Indians.  The  detachment  consisted  of  seventeen 
men  ;  they  were  bivouacked  it  seems,  upon  the  bank  of 
a  small  river,  and  were  attacked  during  the  night  by  a 
large  body  of  Indians  who  killed  them  all  to  a  man. 
Instead  of  scalping  their  victims,  as  is  customary  with 
North  American  Indians,  they  dug  out  their  eyes,  and 
abandoned  them  thus  horridly  mutilated  ! 

Saturday,  Jan.  18.  Latitude  at  noon  51°  52'.  Our 
progress  for  a  day  or  two  past  has  been  very  slow, 
owing  to  the  prevalence  of  light  baffling  winds  from  the 
south-  west,  and  south  south-west.  The  air  is  very  keen,  and 
we  have  no  fire  on  board  to  mitigate  its  severity.  The 
only  serious  inconvenience  I  experience,  is  that  my  feet  are 
constantly  cold,  a  sensation  I  have  seldom  experienced, 
even  in  the  coldest  weather  of  a  New  England  winter. 


SUFFERINGS     FROM     COLD.  105 

My  fingers  too  are  swollen  with  that  annoying  complaint 
the  "chilblains,"  so  common  an  occurrence  at  home, 
although  usually  confined  to  another  part  of  the  system. 
We  should  have  had  a  stove  set  up  in  the  cabin  before 
this,  were  we  not  deterred  by  the  fear  of  being  overrun  by 
the  black  legged  gentry  that  have  retreated  to  the  lower 
hold  during  the  cold  weather. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

CAPE  HORN. 

Terra  del  Fuego — Patagonians— Straits  of  Magellan — Geo- 
graphical position  of  Cape  Horn — Dangers  and  difficulties 
of  doubling  the  Cape — Capricious  state  of  the  elements — 
Huge  Sperm  Whale — The  carreer  albatross — Perils  of 
Whaling — Sailor's  songs. 

Monday ',  Jan.  20.  Land  ho  !  This  morning,  as  the 
mists  began  to  clear  away,  the  bleak  cliffs  and  highlands 
of  Terra  del  Fuego  and  Staten  Land,  lay  before  us,  not 
more  than  ten  or  twelve  miles  distant.  Staten  Land  is 
separated  from  the  "  land  of  fire,"  by  the  straits  De  La 
Maire,  about  fifteen  miles  in  width,  which  are  often 
passed  through  by  ships  outward  bound  around  Cape 
Horn.  Although  it  is  here  the  season  corresponding  to 
midsummer,  yet  the  heights  are  crowned  with  tracts  of 
snow,  contrasted  beautifully  with  the  gloomy  aspect  of 
the  cliffs  as  seen  through  the  waving  mists.  Upon  our 
right  extended  the  outline  of  Terra  del  Fuego,  until  it 
vanished  in  the  dense  fog  that  rested  upon  the  waters, 
while  beyond  the  coast  rose  a  tall,  conical  mountain, 
whose  steep  sides  converged  in  a  narrow,  isolated  peak. 

Upon  each  side  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  live  the  far 
famed  race  of  Patagonians,  whose  gigantic  proportions, 
(if  we  are  to  believe  the  accounts  of  early  navigators,) 
might  rival  the  Goliahs  of  antiquity.  The  visits  of  recent 
voyagers,  have  stripped  them  of  the  marvelous,  and  they 
are  now  found  to  be  no  larger  than  other  people.     One 


PAT  AGO  N  I  AN  S.  107 

of  our  boatsteerers  was  in  a  ship  which  passed  through 
the  straits  several  years  since.  I  had  a  long  conversa- 
tion with  him  about  their  appearance  and  manners,  and 
he  confirms  the  observations  I  have  just  made.  What 
should  have  induced  former  voyagers  to  give  such  exag- 
gerated accounts  of  the  Patagonians,  I  cannot  imagine, 
unless  it  be  to  gratify  the  preference  of  human  nature 
for  the  marvelous  rather  than  for  what  bears  the  impress 
of  truth. 

This  is  the  first  land  we  have  seen  since  leaving 
Fayal,  a  period  of  nine  weeks.  The  sight,  I  need  hardly 
say,  was  very  acceptable  to  me  at  least.  Those  whose 
horizon  the  vast  ocean  has  bounded  week  after  week,  are 
apt  to  feel  that  these  restless  waters  are  their  only  home. 

There  is  a  strong  current  setting  into  these  straits, 
and  there  is  also  a  tide  about  these  islands ;  but  with 
a  fair  wind,  (an  occurrence  however  somewhat  rare,) 
the  passage  may  be  made  without  any  difficulty. 
Terra  del  Fuego  is  separated  from  the  main  land 
by  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  through  which  ships  occa- 
sionally make  their  way  into  the  Pacific,  although 
the  attempt  has  been  hitherto  regarded  as  rather  hazard- 
ous from  the  intricacy  of  the  channel,  as  well  as  the 
inaccuracy  of  the  surveys.* 

We  have  been  endeavoring  all  day  long  to  pass 
through  the  Straits  De  La  Maire,  but  have  been  becalm- 
ed until  sunset,  when  the  attempt  at  night  was  thought 
inadvisable,  and  we  are  now  doubling  Cape  St.  John,  the 
eastern  extremity  of  Staten  Land. 

Thursday^  Jan.  23.     Light  winds  and  a  heavy  head 


*  The  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  have  made  very  careful  surveys 
of  the  Straits  of  Magellan  and  the  adjacent  islands,  which  will  probably 
facilitate  the  navigation  through  them,  and  induce  most  ships  to  adopt  this 
route,  instead  of  the  circuitous  and  hazardous  passage  around  Cape  Horn. 


108  CAPE     HORN. 

swell,  have  kept  Terra  del  Fuego  and  Staten  Land  in 
sight  until  this  morning,  when  they  slowly  disappeared 
behind  the  mists  that  enveloped  them,  and  Cape  Horn  with 
its  isolated  Peak  and  neighboring  islands,  rose  into  view. 
We  have  been  becalmed  all  day.  a  very  different  recep- 
tion from  what  we  might  expect  from  the  boisterous 
character  of  the  Cape.  The  clouds  have  a  lowering 
aspect,  however,  and  we  may  yet  experience  the  fury  of 
old  Eolus  in  this  his  favorite  region.  We  are  unusually 
near  the  Cape,  and  have  a  fine  view  of  it,  which  even 
those  who  have  doubled  it  many  times,  cannot  always 
boast  of.  Capt.  R.,  told  me  that  he  had  never  before 
seen  Cape  Horn,  although  he  had  passed  around  it  six  or 
eight  times. 

Cape  Horn  is  located  upon  Hermit  Island,  a  small 
island  two  or  three  miles  in  length,  rising  up  into  a 
cone  at  the  southernmost  end,  with  a  line  of  rocks 
extending  behind  it  towards  the  north.  Between  this 
island  and  Terra  del  Fuego,  several  long  and  narrow 
islands  are  situated,  upon  which  we  observed  large  fields 
of  snow,  although  at  the  distance  of  twenty  miles. 

The  passage  around  Cape  Horn,  into  the  Pacific,  is 
generally  very  trying  and  hazardous,  owing  to  the 
violent  westerly  gales  and  sudden  squalls  that  pre- 
vail in  those  regions.  Ships  are  sometimes  detained 
here  for  two  or  three  weeks  and  even  longer,  con- 
tending against  the  fury  of  the  elements.  To  the 
howling  storm  and  the  raging  sea,  the  iceberg,  a 
common  exhibition,  adds  new  terrors,  which  the  most 
careful  vigilance  cannot  always  elude.  Many  a  ship 
has  been  crushed  between  these  moving  mountains,  or 
been  dashed  to  pieces  upon  fields  of  floating  ice,  and 
every  soul  perished  in  these  forlorn  regions. 

Hermit  island  is  not  the  southernmost  land  upon  the 


SINGULAR  ROC  K — A  SQUALL.        109 

South  American  coast ;  but  the  Diego  Ramirez  Islands, 
a  cluster  of  islets,  lie  a  little  farther  south,  as  will  be 
seen  by  consulting  the  chart.  Latitude  of  Cape  Horn 
55°  58'  south,  longitude  67°  21'.  Latitude  of  the  Diego 
Ramirez  Islands  56°  32'  south,  longitude  68°  36'. 

Friday,  Jan.  24.  To-day  with  a  light  breeze,  we 
drew  up  within  six  miles  of  the  cape,  so  near  that  the 
breakers  dashing  against  its  rocky  sides  were  distinctly 
visible.  Within  a  few  miles  of  the  cape,  in  a  bay  set- 
ting into  one  of  the  adjacent  islands,  stands  a  very  sin- 
gular rock,  which  appeared  so  similar  to  a  steamboat 
at  anchor,  that  the  resemblance  struck  every  one  on 
board,  and  through  the  glass  the  likeness  was  rendered 
still  more  apparent.  Upon  each  side  of  the  rock,  a  pro- 
jection represented  the  paddle  boxes,  while  a  tall,  nar- 
row rock  standing  out  in  bold  relief;  would  pass  very 
well  for  the  smoke-pipe  and  upright  machinery,  thus 
completing  the  fantastic  appearance  of  this  little  island. 
Hermit  island,  and  also  the  neighboring  islands,  appear 
to  belong  to  the  same  variety  of  rock.  Through  the 
glass,  they  seem  like  huge  masses  of  trap  rock,  traversed 
by  numerous  reddish  veins. 

This  evening  we  had  a  sharp  squall,  which  we  antici- 
pated by  taking  in  sail  before  it  struck  us.  You  see  a 
light  mist  rising  rapidly  to  windward  of  you,  a  signal  to 
draw  in  your  light  sails,  or  in  a  few  moments  the  blast 
will  be  down  upon  you,  screaming  wildly  through  the 
rigging,  while  your  light  spars  will  be  seen  flying  to  lee- 
ward, or  a  topsail  be  blown  with  the  sound  of  thunder 
from  its  bolt-rope. 

Saturday,  Jan.  25.     Becalmed  all  day,  and  drifting 

to  the  eastward  in  the  current  setting  around  the  Cape 

from  the  Pacific.     The  rain  has  been  falling  all  day 

10 


110  CA  PE    HORN. 

with  scarcely  any  intermission,  and  the  cold  damp  air 
which  prevails  above  and  below,  renders  our  situation 
extremely  cheerless.  Such  a  constant  succession  of 
calms  in  high  latitudes,  is  usually  the  precursor  of  a 
storm,  and  we  may  be  many  weeks  in  gaining  the  few 
miles  of  westing  that  must  be  made,  before  we  begin  to 
point  the  ship's  head  to  the  north. 

Sunday,  Jan.  6.  Saw  a  large  school  of  sperm  whales 
early  this  morning,  within  a  mile  or  two  of  the  ship ; 
there  was  too  much  wind  and  sea,  however,  to  admit  of 
sending  the  boats  to  attack  them.  Soon  afterwards  a 
sail  was  seen  on  our  weather  bow,  coming  down  before 
the  wind  with  fore-topmast  and  main-top -gallant  stud- 
ding sails  set  on  both  sides,  a  most  enviable  sight  to  us 
who  were  opposed  by  the  wind  that  was  bearing  her 
gallantly  on  her  course. 

Latitude  at  noon  57°  25'  south,  longitude  67°  35'  west. 
The  sky  was  clear  this  morning,  but  this  afternoon  the 
weather  became  thick  and  rainy,  with  some  prospects  of 
a  gale. 

Monday,  Jan.  27.  Calm  weather  with  scarcely  any 
wind,  accompanied  with  a  heavy  swell  and  frequent 
showers  of  rain.  Since  yesterday,  we  have  made  sixty 
seven  miles  westing  from  noon  till  noon. 

Tuesday,  Jan.  28.  Calm  weather  with  showers  of 
rain  occasonally.  Longitude  70°  37'  west,  indicating 
twelve  miles  westing  from  yesterday  noon  till  to-day 
noon. 

Wednesday,  Jan.  29.  Calm  and  beautiful  day,  with 
occasional  "  catpaws "  or  puffs  of  wind  sweeping  over 
the  ocean  in  every  direction.  Average  of  the  thermom- 
eter 60°.  Observed  the  water  teeming  with  innumera- 
ble sparkling  flakes,  from  a  size  so  minute  as  to  be  almost 
imperceptible  to  a  size  as  large  as  a  twenty  five  cent  i 


PASSAGE     AROUND    CAPE    HORN.  Ill 

piece.  This  is  a  very  common  phenomenon  in  a  long 
succession  of  calm  weather,  but  is  more  particularly  ob- 
servable in  tropical  regions. 

A  young  albatross  was  captured  this  morning  which 
made  an  excellent  "sea  pie,"  or  fricassee  for  supper,  re- 
sembling veal  in  taste,  although  one  or  two  of  the  offi- 
cers refused  to  partake  of  the  dish,  inasmuch  as  this  bird 
lias  no  gizzard.  The  less  fastidious  fared  much  better, 
and  made  a  good  supper. 

Thursday,  Jan.  30.  Mild  and  beautiful  day,  with  a 
fine,  fresh  breeze  from  the  north-east,  which  has  impell- 
ed us  from  sixty  to  eighty  miles  on  our  course  in  a 
north-westerly  direction. 

Saturday,  Feb.  1.  For  the  last  forty-eight  hours, 
strong  and  favorable  breezes,  with  occasional  calms. 
The  rain  has  been  falling  almost  all  day,  and  we  have 
been  pursued  by  a  gale  of  wind  from  the  eastward  under 
double  reefed  topsails.  We  are  now  twenty  or  thirty 
miles  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Horn,  with  a  favorable 
prospect  of  soon  emerging  into  warmer  latitudes.  Our 
progress  westward  has  been  most  remarkable,  and  there 
is  not  a  man  on  board,  who  has  ever  seen  so  favorable  a 
time  in  passing  around  Cape  Horn  into  the  Pacific. 

Monday,  Feb.  3.  For  the  last  forty-eight  hours,  have 
had  strong  breezes  from  the  south-east  and  south  and 
south-west,  which  yesterday  afternoon  blew  up  into  a 
gale,  before  which  we  ran  under  all  the  sail  we  dared  to 
carry,  with  a  heavy  sea  rolling  after  us. 

The  weather  has  been  more  moderate  to-day,  although 
squally.  Latitude  at  noon  to-day  51°  50',  making  about 
two  hundred  miles  northing  for  the  preceding  twenty- 
four  hours.  Our  course  was  in  a  northwesterly  direc- 
tion, and  the  entire  distance  traversed  during  that  time, 
|  exceeded  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  # 


112  CAPE    HORN. 

We  may  now  consider  ourselves  fairly  around  this 
much  dreaded  cape,  and  launched  into  the  vast  Pacific 
ocean,  with  its  mighty  expanse  of  waters  extending 
thousands  and  thousands  of  miles  to  the  westward  of  us, 
and  set  with  numerous  islands  that  rise  like  gems  from 
its  profound  depths. 

It  was  regarded  as  an  enterprise  of  great  magnitude  to 
double  Cape  Horn,  in  the  times  of  Captain  Cook  and  the 
adventurers  that  succeeded  him.  But  the  great  number 
of  ships,  both  whalemen  and  merchantmen,  that  annu- 
ally pass  around  in  safety,  have  divested  it  of  many  of 
its  terrors,  and  made  it  appear  much  less  formidable 
than  in  days  of  yore.  It  is  still,  however,  a  fearful 
place. 

During  our  passage  around  Cipp.  Horn,  T  haw  been 
constantly  on  the  look-out  for  any  unusual  astronomical 
phenomenon,  particularly  with  reference  to  the  doubtful 
occurrence  of  an  aurora  australis.  Nothing  remarkable, 
however,  has  been  seen,  and  no  aurora  has  illumined 
the  sky  to  the  southward  of  us.  The  captain  and  offi- 
cers concur  in  saying  that  they  have  never  noticed  any 
thing  ofnhe  kind  while  in  these  regions. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  5.  Latitude  at  noon  47°  51'.  We 
were  dashing  along  this  afternoon  with  a  fine  breeze, 
when  a  large  sperm  whale  was  suddenly  seen  "close 
aboard  of  us,"  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  off.  A  do- 
zen men  were  instantly  hold  of  the  main-clew-garnets— 
the  main  course  clewed  up  and  the  after  sails  laid  aback, 
in  a  less  time  than  I  have  been  writing  about  it.  Three 
boats  were  then  lowered,  but  soon  after  seven  o'clock, 
returned  to  the  ship,  as  the  gathering  gloom  of  the  eve- 
ning precluded  all  hope  of  success. 

This  whale  was  of  extraordinary  size,  and  displayed 


PERILS    OF    WHALING.  113 

the  large  hump  upon  his  back  repeatedly,  and  several 
times  threw  his  broad  flukes  high  out  of  water. 

Friday ',  Feb.  7.  Latitude  at  noon  45°.  This  morn- 
ing, I  amused  myself  for  a  long  time  in  catching  alba- 
trosses, and  was  so  successful  as  to  capture  three^ 
making  seven  in  all,  that  we  have  taken.  The 
whalers  that  double  Cape  Horn,  frequently  amuse 
themselves  by  catching  a  number  of  these  birds,  and 
then  letting  them  go,  with  an  inscription  upon  a  piece 
of  leather  tied  around  their  necks.  The  inscription  is 
an  exaggerated  account  of  their  success  in  whaling. 
For  instance,  if  we  were  desirous  of  imitating  this  vera- 
cious practice,  we  might  send  off  one  or  two  of  the  alba- 
trosses we  took  to-day  with  the  label  "  North  America, 
New  London,  at  sea.  Feb.  7,  1840,  four  months  out — 
350  bbls.  Sp.  Oil,"  whereas  if  the  ship  were  to  be  search- 
ed, not  more  than  fifty  bbls.  of  oil  could  be  found,  of  any 
kind. 

Great  numbers  of  these  birds  flock  around  a  whale  ship, 
when  "  cutting  in  "  the  whale,  alighting  upon  the  sea,  and 
swimming  around  to  pick  up  scraps  of  blubber  that  are 
floating  loosely  about.  A  favorite  amusement  of  the  crew 
at  these  times,  is  to  tie  a  piece  of  blubber  upon  each  end 
of  a  string,  and  then  to  throw  it  overboard.  Each  piece 
finds  a  voracious  devourer,  and  then  a  ludicrous  struggle 
ensues  between  them,  which  terminates  in  the  weaker 
party  being  compelled  to  disgorge  what  he  had  swallowed. 

Saturday,  Feb.  8.  Those  whose  home  is  upon  "  the 
trackless  main,"  must  of  necessity,  experience  the  many 
dangers  of  the  capricious  element  upon  which  they  are 
floating.  But  besides  the  ordinary  dangers  of  the  sea, 
the  whaler  is  exposed  to  peculiar  risks  of  life  and  limb 
in  the  various  duties  of  his  hazardous  profession.  The 
utmost  caution  is  requisite  in  the  attack  upon  a  whale,  to 

10* 


114  CAPE     HORN. 

guard  against  danger,  and  every  man  must  be  on  the 
alert,  or  success  is  not  only  hopeless,  but  disastrous  con- 
sequences are  very  likely  to  ensue.  The  line  some- 
times becomes  entangled  as  it  darts  from  the  boat,  and 
must  be  instantly  severed,  or  the  boat  will  be  carried 
down,  if  the  "  chock  pin  "  is  too  strong  to  break.  When 
the  boats  are  among  a  school  of  whales,  they  are  often 
stove  by  these  huge  animals;  as  the  boats  cannot  be 
seen  when  in  a  line  with  them,  they  are  frequently 
shattered  by  the  powerful  head  of  the  whale,  before  he  is 
aware  of  their  proximity.  The  whale  in  coming  up  to 
blow  after  being  down  for  some  time,  shoots  up  head- 
first with  great  velocity,  and  instant  destruction  awaits 
that  unlucky  boat  that  happens  to  be  immediately  over 
him.  (See  frontispiece.)  In  coming  alongside  in  the 
boats,  there  is  no  inconsiderable  danger,  if  there  is  a 
heavy  swell  running  at  the  time ;  when  these  frail 
structures  are  liable  to  be  dashed  to  pieces  against  the 
ship's  side,  and  their  crews  are  often  seriously  injured 
by  being  caught  between  the  boat  and  ship.  In  "  cutting 
in"  the  whale  too,  lamentable  casualties  often  occur. 
Large  masses  of  blubber  slide  from  side  to  side  as  the 
ship  rolls  heavily  in  the  sea  in  rough  weather.  The 
heads  of  the  sperm  whales,  which  are  always  hoisted 
upon  deck  when  practicable,  sometimes  get  loose  and 
cause  great  destruction  before  they  are  secured  again. 
The  numerous  sharp  instruments  used  in  every  depart- 
ment of  whaling,  are  a  source  of  considerable  danger, 
and  many  persons  annually,  receive  terrible  wounds, 
either  through  their  own  carelessness  or  that  of  others. 
One  of  the  officers  told  me  that  upon  a  certain  occasion, 
while  "cutting  in"  a  whale,  he  was  thrown  from  the 
staging,  and  fell  upon  the  whale,  while  but  a  narrow 
strip  of  blubber  prevented  his  sliding  off  upon  the  keen, 


SONGS.  115 

barbed  head  of  a  harpoon  sticking  into  the  side  of  the 
whale  and  pointing  directly  towards  him.  These  are 
some  of  the  dangers  which  the  whaler  encounters,  and 
if  there  are  any  men  worthy  of  commendation  for  their 
enterprise  and  intrepidity,  he  certainly  deserves  a  promi- 
nent place  among  them. 

Monday,  Feb.  10.  Saw  this  noon,  a  large  school  of 
black  fish,  a  cetaceous  animal  resembling  the  Sperm 
Whale  somewhat  in  shape,  and  varying  in  length  from 
five  or  six  feet  to  twenty  two  or  three  feet.  Three  boats 
were  sent  in  among  them,  but  were  unsuccessful  in  cap- 
turing any.  Latitude  at  noon,  41°  39'.  Temperature 
of  the  air  by  the  thermometer  60°. 

Tuesday,  Feb.  11.  I  have  often  been  very  much 
amused  by  the  cries  and  songs  of  the  men,  when  engaged 
in  hauling  away  upon  the  rigging  of  the  ship.  The 
usual  cry  is  "  Ho  !  Ho  !  Hoi !"  or  "  Ho  !  Ho  !  Heavo  !" 
which  is  sung  by  some  one  of  them,  while  the  rest  keep 
time.  It  has  a  rather  dolorous  cadence,  and  a  wildness 
that  sounds  like  a  note  of  distress  when  rising  above  the 
roar  of  the  gale  at  dead  of  night. 

But  there  are  many  songs  in  common  use  among 
seamen,  of  a  very  lively  character,  which  though  bereft 
of  all  sentiment  and  sense  in  many  instances,  are  per- 
formed with  very  good  eifect  when  there  is  a  long  line 
of  men  hauling  together.  Mr.  Freeman  usually  officiates 
as  chorister,  and  with  numerous  demisemiquavers, 
strikes  up  the  song,  while  all  the  rest  join  in  the  chorus. 
Sometimes  they  all  sing  together  as  I  have  endeavored 
to  represent,  although  it  must  appear  very  tame  without 
the  attendant  circumstances.  One  of  the  songs  is  as 
follows : — 


116 


CAPE     HORN 


S 


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Ho  !    Ho  !  and      up     she  ris  •  es.      Ho  !    Ho  !  and     up  she  ris  -  es. 


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Ho!    Ho!  and       up     she     ris  -  es,      Ear-ly      in    the  morn-iug. 

And  another  song,  accompanied  with  the  chorus, 
which  vies  with  the  song  of  the  troubadours  in  poetic 
sentiment. 

Chorus 

Nan  -  cy  Fan  -  an  -  a,  she    mar  -  ried  a  bar  -  ber,  Heave  her  a  •  way,  and 


?:£ 


M: 


•*— #: 


heave  her  a  -  way  !         Hur  •  rah !     Hur  -  rah !  for       Nan  -  cy    Fa- 

Chomi 


£ 


S 


na  •   na.  Heave  her  a  -  way !    and  Heave  her   a  -  way  ! 

There  are  many  other  songs  that  might  be  very  easily 
mentioned,  which,  however,  like  a  good  proportion  of 
our  parlor  songs  are  rather  insipid  without  the  music. 
The  songs  of  sailors,  when  sung  with  spirit  and  to  the 
full  extent  of  their  fine  sonorous  voices,  add  new  vigor 
to  their  exertions,  as  the  heavy  yards  and  sails  are 
mounting  upwards. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

HUNTING  AND  FISHING  SCENES, 


Ambrose  Island — Immense  flocks  of  birds — Great  fishing — 
Capture  of  a  fur  seal — Sea  birds — Capture  of  a  black 
fish — Boat  carried  down  by  a  whale. 


Wednesday,  Feb.  19.  Last  evening  the  dim  outline  of 
Ambrose  Island,  was  just  discernible  at  sunset.  During 
thp  night  nnrW  easy  sail,  with  a  light  wind,  we  drew 
up  slowly  towards  the  island,  and  were  becalmed  almost 
all  the  forenoon. 

After  dinner,  Capt.  R.,  invited  me  to  accompany  him 
on  a  fishing  and  hunting  excursion.  Accordingly,  with 
our  guns  and  fishing  tackle,  we  jumped  into  his  boat 
and  pulled  for  the  Island,  then  about  six  miles  distant. 

Ambrose  Island  belongs  to  the  St.  Felix  group,  situa- 
ted in  latitude  26°  20'  S.,  and  is  about  600  miles  from 
the  coast  of  Chili.  It  is  a  desolate  rock  with  scarcely  a 
sign  of  vegetation,  rising  abruptly  with  precipitous  and 
craggy  sides,  to  a  height  of  five  hundred  feet  or  more, 
while  the  heaving  billows  of  the  ocean  are  continually 
roaring  at  its  base.  From  the  main  body  are  detached 
several  large  rocks,  forming  fanciful  arches,  among 
which  the  surf  was  boiling  and  dashing  the  spray  high 
up  into  the  air.  The  incessant  action  of  the  sea,  had 
worn  deep  cavities  into  the  solid  rocks  and  labarynthine 
passages,  from  which  the  mists  spray  puffed  out  in  many 
beautiful  jets  d'eau.     These  solitary  islands  of  the  ocean 


113  HUNTING    AND    FISHING    SCENES. 

are  favorite  places  of  resort  to  innumerable  sea  birds 
that  rear  their  young  upon  the  recesses  of  the  projecting 
cliffs,  and  derive  their  food  from  the  sea. 

Great  numbers  of  birds  about  the  size  of  our  pigeons 
came  off  to  meet  us,  and  hovered  over  us  so  near  to  the 
boat,  that  I  knocked  several  of  them  down  with  a  short 
stick  I  had  in  my  hand.  The  most  numerous  variety 
was  the  "Booby,"  as  he  is  called  by  the  sailors,  a  bird 
about  the  size  of  a  goose.  We  shot  several  of  them  ; 
there  are  two  varieties,  the  white  and  the  grey  Booby, 
differing  in  color  only.  The  grey  Booby  has  an  elonga- 
ted body,  grey  back,  white  breast,  strong  and  sharp  bill 
of  a  greenish  yellow  color.  He  measures  from  tip  to 
tip  of  his  expanded  wings  about  five  and  a  half  feet, 
and  from  the  extremity  of  his  bill  to  the  end  of  bis  tail 
about  two  feet  and  a  half.  The  Booby  is  a  very  sleepy 
bird,  and  frequently  alights  upon  the  yards  and  booms 
of  a  ship,  when  he  becomes  an  easy  captive.  He  is  a 
very  active  fisher,  however,  darting  from  a  great  height 
with  astonishing  velocity  into  the  water,  and  even  diving 
for  some  distance  beneath  the  surface  to  seize  the  fish 
upon  which  he  preys. 

We  coasted  along  the  shore  of  the  island,  stopping  fre- 
quently to  catch  fish,  which  were  very  abundant,  and 
some  kinds  were  tinged  with  beautiful  hues.  The  birds 
also,  were  very  active,  diving  down  into  the  water  a  few 
yards  from  us,  and  coming  up  with  a  fish  in  their  mouths 
about  the  size  and  hue  of  the  gold  fish  we  have  in  our 
glass  globes  at  home.  As  we  were  moving  along  the 
shore,  we  came  to  a  deep  grotto  overhung  with  frown- 
ing rocks.  Upon  entering  it,  our  attention  was  arrested 
by  a  large  animal  lying  asleep  upon  the  rocks  close  by  us, 
which  Capt.  R.  instantly  recognized  as  a  fur  seal.  The 
head  of  the  boat  was  run  up  to  the  rock,  while  the  old 


BLACK    Flsn.  110 

seal  and  her  cub  began  to  exhibit  signs  of  life  by  dis- 
playing their  teeth  and  setting  up  a  furious  growl. 
With  a  blow  upon  the  nose  from  the  boat-hook,  the  dam 
was  laid  senseless  upon  the  rock,  while  the  cub  took  to 
the  water  and  made  off  with  himself,  swimming  farther 
into  the  grotto,  but  after  considerable  difficulty,  we  suc- 
ceeded in  capturing  him  also.  The  old  seal  measured 
over  five  feet  in  length,  and  the  cub  about  two  feet  and 
a  half.  The  fur  of  seals  taken  in  these  latitudes  is 
shorter  than  that  of  colder  climates.  These  skins,  how- 
ever, would  be  valued  at  eight  or  nine  dollars  at  home. 

We  returned  to  the  ship,  shooting  several  birds  on  our 
passage,  highly  gratified  with  the  varied  amusements  of 
the  afternoon,  and  at  supper  feasted  ourselves  upon  the 
fine  fish  we  had  taken,  and  the  flesh  of  the  young  seal, 
which  was  tender  and  delicate  like  that  of  a  pig. 

Friday,  Feb.  21.  This  afternoon  the  boats  ran  into 
a  school  of  large  black  fish,  and  succeeded  in  "  fasten- 
ing "  to  two  of  them.  One  of  these  made  his  escape,  as 
the  harpoon  "  drew  "  from  the  wound  in  his  violent  ef- 
forts to  get  loose,  although  he  must  have  died  subse- 
quently.  The  other  after  "sounding"  for  some  time 
rose  upon  the  surface  of  the  water,  apparently  dead,  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  boat,  which  immediately  ranged 
along  side  to  use  the  lance.  At  that  moment  he  com- 
menced his  "  flurry,"  and  knocking  the  oars  from  the 
starboard  side,  he  thrust  his  unwieldy  head  across  the 
gunner  of  the  boat,  filling  her  half  full  of  water,  to 
the  terror  of  the  men,  some  of  whom  jumped  overboard. 
In  his  agony  and  furious  convulsions,  the  boat  bucket 
was  stove,  and  the  boat  somewhat  injured ;  but  before 
she  had  become  full  of  water,  he  darted  off"  in  another 
direction,  while  the  men  and  oars  were  picked  up  by  one 
of  the  other  boats.    The  black  fish  soon  "  turned  up,"  and 


120  HUNTING    AND    FISHING    SCENES. 

was  secured  by  a  rope  fastened  around  his  flukes.  Unfortu- 
nately, however,  the  bowline  slipped,  and  to  the  mortifi- 
cation of  the  boatsteerer,  the  animal  was  lost,  as  his  spe- 
cific gravity  is  greater  than  that  of  the  water.  Several 
days  since  we  lost  a  large  black  fish  by  the  "  drawing  of 
the  iron,"  the  line  passing  too  closely  around  the  logger- 
head of  the  boat,  while  the  animal  was  in  his  "flurry." 
Many  whales  are  lost  in  this  way,  after  being  struck,  and 
there  are  some  kinds  of  whales  that  almost  always  sink 
after  they  are  killed  ;  for  instance,  the  hump  back  whale, 
and  not  unfrequently,  the  right  whale.  These  whales 
are  almost  always  found  in  comparatively  shoal  water, 
particularly  the  former  variety.  They  generally  remain 
beneath  the  surface  for  three  days  after  they  are  killed, 
when  they  become  buoyant  enough  to  rise  and  are 
claimed  by  the  ship  that  remains  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, anxiously  awaiting  their  re-appearance.  The 
sperm  whale,  when  captured,  very  rarely  sinks,  but 
when  he  does,  he  is  never  recovered. 

Several  very  melancholy  instances  have  been  told  me 
of  the  loss  of  boats  with  all  their  crews,  by  being  taken 
down  suddenly  with  the  whale,  along  side  of  which  it 
was  lying  during  the  night.  The  men  perished  misera- 
bly by  drowning,  or  being  devoured  by  the  voracious 
sharks  that  gather  in  great  numbers  around  the  carcase 
of  a  dead  whale. 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  WHALE  FISHERY. 

Early  history  of  the  whale  fishery — Original  method  of  at- 
tacking whales — Modern  improvements  in  whaling — Imple- 
ments— Enterprise  of  our  ancestors  in  this  line — Intrepidity 
of  whalers — Discoveries  in  distant  regions — Benefits  confer- 
red by  them  on  the  Polynesian  colonies  and  missionary  estab- 
lishments— Character  of  whalers,  officers  and  crew. 

In  the  rise  and  progress  of  the  whale  fishery,  a  branch 
of  commercial  pursuit  now  swollen  to  snch  a  magnitude, 
we  can  remember  with  pride  the  activity  and  enterprise 
of  our  ancestors,  who  at  a  very  early  period  of  our  his- 
tory were  the  first  to  traverse  the  mighty  waters  of  the 
North  and  South  Atlantic,  and  grapple  with  and  subdue 
"  the  monster  of  the  main  "  in  his  own  realm.  There 
may  have  been  many  daring  enterprises  of  this  kind  at- 
tempted antecedently  to  this  period ;  but  it  was  not  until  the 
American  colonies,  during  the  early  part  of  the  last  cen- 
tury, in  a  spirit  of  adventure  and  of  commercial  enter- 
prise, began  to  fit  out  their  little  vessels  and  sally  forth  to 
gather  spoils  from  the  ocean,  that  we  find  any  authentic  ac- 
counts of  the  prosecution  of  the  whale  fishery  as  a  reg- 
ular department  of  commercial  industry.  "  But  even 
before  these  adventurers  commenced  their  career  of  sper- 
maceti hunting,  we  have  it  proved  to  us  that  the  Indians 
who  inhabited  the  shores  of  America,  used  to  voyage 
out  to  sea  and  attack  this  animal  from  their  canoes  and 
pierce  him  with  their  lances  of  wood  or  other  instru- 

11 


122  WHALE     FISHERY. 

merits  of  the  same  material,  which  were  barbed,  and 
which  before  they  were  plunged  into  his  flesh,  were 
fastened  by  a  short  warp,  or  piece  of  rope  to  a  large 
block  of  light  wood.  This  was  thrown  overboard  the 
moment  the  barbed  instrument  was  thrust  into  his  body, 
which  being  repeated  at  every  rising  of  the  whale,  or 
when  they  were  so  fortunate  as  to  get  near  enough  to  do 
so — in  a  few  instances  by  a  sort  of  worrying  to  death 
system,  rewarded  the  enterprising  savage  with  the  lifeless 
body  of  his  victim,  but  which  in  most  cases  was  that  of 
a  very  young  one ;  and  even  this,  when  towed  to  the 
shore,  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  turn  over,  so  that 
they  were  obliged  to  content  themselves  with  flinching 
the  fat  from  one  side  of  the  body  only.  Few  indeed 
must  these  instances  have  been,  when  we  consider  the 
means  that  were  employed  in  the  capture  of  so  immense 
an  animal  possessing  such  enormous  strength  by  which 
their  barbed  spears  or  lances  of  wood,  must  have  been 
frequently  shivered  to  atoms  or  drawn  from  the  flesh  of 
the  whale  by  the  resistance  the  blocks  of  wood  to  which 
they  were  attached  must  have  occasioned,  when  the 
animal  became  frightened  into  its  utmost  speed,  and 
when  we  know  at  the  present  time  that  by  their  power- 
ful actions  and  convulsive  movements,  the  best  tempered 
iron  of  which  our  harpoons  and  lances  are  made,  fre- 
quently becomes  twisted  to  pieces,  while  the  boats  which 
are  used  in  the  chase  are  often  thrown  high  into  the  air, 
with  the  head,  or  broken  into  fragments,  by  one  blow  of 
the  tail  of  this  enormous  creature."     (Beale,  p.  138.) 

The  mode  of  attacking  the  Sperm  Whale,  now  uni- 
versally practised,  by  a  harpoon  attached  to  a  long  line, 
was  a  great  improvement  upon  the  cautious  movements 
of  former  whalers.  Previous  to  this  period,  the  attack 
was  made  with  harpoons  attached  to  large  blocks  of 


MODERN    IMPROVEMENTS.  123 

wood  in  imitation  of  the  aborigines;  but  the  hardy- 
whaler  with  a  contempt  of  danger  which  has  always 
characterized  him,  adopted  the  more  hazardous  but 
surer  method  of  capturing  the  leviathan  of  the  deep,  and 
with  the  smoking  line  darting  out,  flies  like  a  phantom 
over  the  billows,  followed  in  his  impetuous  course 
by  a  long  line  of  foam. 

The  invention  of  the  gun  harpoon,  was  thought  to 
be  a  very  great  improvement  upon  the  simple  harpoons 
in  use,  as  the  weapon  is  propelled  somewhat  farther  and 
consequently  with  more  force,  when  thrown  from  a  gun, 
than  in  the  ordinary  way.  But  the  great  difficulties  and 
dangers  attending  it  while  the  boat  is  plunging  and 
tossing  about,  together  with  the  few  advantages  it  pos- 
sesses over  the  other,  have  effectually  prevented  its 
coming  into  general  use.  It  is  almost  entirely  confined 
to  French  whalemen,  whose  national  penchant  for  the 
application  of  science  to  the  arts,  would  naturally  give 
them  a  preference  for  any  mechanical  contrivance. 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  an  admirable  article 
in  the  North  American  Review  of  Jan.,  1834,  entitled 
"  The  Whale  Fishery." 

"  Second  only  in  maritime  importance  among  nations, 
our  country  has  already  outstripped  all  others  in  the 
whale  fishery.  Our  efforts  first  commenced  in  open 
boats  on  the  shores  of  Cape  Cod  and  Nantucket,  at  an 
early  period  of  our  history.  As  soon  as  a  whale  appear- 
ed to  the  keen  eyes  of  our  fisherman,  a  boat  was  pushed 
off  in  pursuit.  This  precarious  business  is  not  even  now 
forgotten,  and  the  huge  carcass  of  the  leviathan  is  not 
an  unfrequent  reward  of  the  watchful  inhabitants  of  the 
Cape  Cod  towns.  The  boat  was  soon  enlarged  to  the 
sloop,  whose  cruise  stretched  gradually  as  far  as  the 
Straits  of  Belle  Isle  and  Labrador,  and  along  our  south- 


124  WHALE     FISHERY. 

ern  coasts  to  the  West  India  seas.  In  time,  the  sloop 
was  metamorphosed  into  a  brig  or  a  ship,  and  the  shores 
of  Africa  were  next  frequented.  The  adventurers 
crossed  the  equator  to  attack  the  monster  on  the  rugged 
coasts  of  Brazil  and  Patagonia.  Soon  the  arduous 
doubling  of  Cape  Horn  opened  to  our  researches  the  vast 
expanse  of  the  Pacific.  Our  ships  may  now  be  seen 
lingering  for  supplies  in  all  the  western  ports  of  South 
America,  and  one  hundred  of  them  annually  recruit  at 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  They  have  scoured  every  part 
of  the  Pacific ;  and  the  coasts  of  Japan  are  now  the 
scene  of  their  most  successful  labors.  Thence  they 
often  return  home  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  thus 
circumnavigating  the  globe  in  a  three  years  voyage. 

It  appears  from  the  early  history  of  the  colonies  that 
our  bays  were  once  plenteously  stocked  with  whales. 
For  near  a  century,  the  business  was  carried  on  from 
the  Cape  Cod  Islands,  particularly  Provincetown,  Truro, 
and  Wellfleet,  in  open  boats.  They  subsequently 
pursued  the  business  in  larger  craft,  and  in  some 
instances  their  vessels  were  despatched  to  Labrador  for 
the  double  purpose  of  cod  and  whale  fishing.  Nan- 
tucket was  settled  in  1759.  The  inhabitants  were 
instructed  in  the  whale  fishing  by  the  Cape  Cod  people. 
The  whales  were  brought  in  by  boats,  and  the  oil  was 
extracted  on  the  shore.  In  1730,  they  employed  as 
many  as  twenty  five  sloops,  and  about  this  period  they 
began  to  erect  works  on  deck,  and  put  up  the  oil  on 
shipboard.  The  fleet  gradually  increased.  In  1756, 
eighty  sloops  sailed  from  the  island,  and  on  the  breaking 
out  of  the  Revolutionary  war,  one  hundred  and  forty 
sloops,  schooners  and  brigs  were  engaged  upon  the 
coasts  of  Guinea,  Brazil  and  the  West  Indies,  annually. 
Thirty  thousand  barrels  of  oil  were  the  rich  result  of 


ENTERPRISE    OF    OUR   ANCESTORS.         125 

their  vigorous  exertions.  About  the  year  1766,  the 
inhabitants  of  Dartmouth,  now  New-Bedford,  began  the 
business  on  the  shore  of  the  Acushnet  river,  gradually- 
launched  their  vessels  in  the  pursuit,  and  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  war  employed  forty  or  fifty  sail.  From 
this  place  was  fitted  out  the  first  whaling  expedition  to 
the  Falkland  Islands  in  1774,  consisting  of  two  vessels. 
Thus  the  New  England  whale  fishery  previously  to  the 
Revolution,  already  employed  nearly  two  hundred 
vessels.  The  extent  of  this  business,  and  the  indefati- 
gable manner  of  its  prosecution,  is  best  illustrated  by  the 
felicitous  language  of  Burke. 

'Look  at  the  manner  in  which  the  people  of  New- 
England  have  of  late  carried  on  the  Whale  Fishery. 
Whilst  we  follow  them  among  the  tumbling  mountains 
of  ice,  and  behold  them  penetrating  into  the  deepest 
frozen  recesses  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  Davis's  Straits, 
whilst  we  are  looking  for  them  beneath  the  arctic  circle, 
we  hear  that  they  have  pierced  into  the  opposite  region 
of  polar  cold,  that  they  are  at  the  antipodes,  and  engaged 
under  the  frozen  serpent  of  the  south.  Falkland  Islands 
which  seemed  too  remote  and  romantic  an  object  for  the 
grasp  of  national  ambition,  is  but  a  stage  .and  resting 
place  in  the  progress  of  their  victorious  industry.  Nor 
is  the  equinoctial  heat  more  discouraging  to  them  than 
the  accumulated  winter  of  both  the  poles.  We  know 
that  while  some  of  them  draw  the  line  and  strike  the 
harpoon  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  others  run  the  longitude, 
and  pursue  their  gigantic  game  along  the  coast  of  Brazil. 
No  sea  but  what  is  vexed  by  their  fisheries,  no  climate 
that  is  not  witness  to  their  toils.  Neither  the  perseve- 
rance of  Holland,  nor  the  activity  of  France,  nor  the 
dexterous  and  firm  sagacity  of  English  enterprize,  ever 
carried  this  perilous  mode  of  hardy  industry  to  the 

11* 


126  WHALE    FISHERY. 

extent  to  which  it  has  been  pushed  by  this  recent 
people — a  people  who  are  still,  as  it  were,  but  in  the 
gristle,  and  not  yet  hardened  into  the  bone  of  manhood.' " 

But  if  such  encomiums  could  be  pronounced  upon  the 
enterprise  and  hardihood  of  our  forefathers  nearly  two 
thirds  of  a  century  ago,  what  panegyrics  should  be  be- 
stowed upon  their  descendants,  who  inheriting  all  the 
fearless  intrepidity  of  their  sires,  and  emulous  of  their 
daring,  have  traversed  the  most  remote  and  dangerous 
seas  with  that  eager  love  of  adventure  which  has  left  no 
region  of  the  mighty  ocean  unvisited.  The  doubling  of 
Cape  Horn,  whose  reputed  terrors  were  once  deemed  in- 
surmountable, is  now  looked  upon  as  a  small  affair  by 
the  hundreds  of  whalers  that  annually  make  the  pas- 
sage. It  is  but  commencing  the  voyage  which  lays  open 
the  vast  Pacific,  extending  more  than  nine  thousand 
miles  from  east  to  west,  and  in  latitude  from  pole  to 
pole.  Here  for  month  after  month,  the  whaler  pursues 
his  "gigantic  game,"  scrutinizing  every  sea  where  a  pros- 
pect of  success  invites,  undaunted  by  the  furious  storms 
that  often  assail  him  with  the  accumulated  surges  of  this 
ocean,  where  they  roll  unopposed,  and  gather  strength 
over  so  great  an  extent — or  by  the  numerous  low  islands, 
reefs  and  rocks,  not  laid  down  on  the  charts,  occurring 
so  frequently  in  one  region  as  to  give  it  the  name  of  "  the 
dangerous  Archipelago  !" — or  by  the  treacherous  savages 
with  whom  he  is  often  compelled  to  negotiate  for  sup- 
plies, at  whose  hand  he  not  unfrequently  meets  a  cruel 
fate,  when  wrecked,  or  when  artfully  decoyed  within 
their  power. 

While  our  discovery  ships,  once  or  twice  during  a  cen- 
tury, are  sent  out  to  explore  these  unknown  regions,  the 
numerous  whale  ships  that  are  scouring  every  ocean 
and  clime,  fall  in  with  many  islands,  reefs  and  shoals. 


BENEFIT    OF    WHALEMEN.  127 

unknown  to  the  navigator,  and  carefully  ascertaining 
their  position  by  observation,  give  intelligence  of  them, 
thus  furthering  the  safety  of  the  voyager  in  those  remote 
and  dangerous  seas.  Many  of  the  beautiful  islands  that 
gem  the  Pacific,  lovely  in  every  variety  of  natural  scen- 
ery, climate  and  production,  were  first  discovered  by 
whale  ships,  "  and  on  the  latest  maps  and  charts,  we  find 
more  than  thirty  of  these  islands  and  reefs  bearing  the 
names  of  Nantucket  captains  and  merchants."  The  vis- 
its of  our  whalers  to  the  western  ports  of  South  Ameri- 
ca for  supplies,  have  greatly  facilitated  our  commerce  by 
removing  the  jealousy  of  the  Spanish  republics  of  South 
America,  and  filling  them  with  respect  for  a  country 
which  can  send  year  after  year  such  an  array  of  ship- 
ping into  their  ports. 

Many  of  the  fertile  islands  of  the  Pacific  would  now 
be  untenanted,  except  by  the  indolent  savage,  and  the 
enterprising  colonies  established  upon  them  must  long 
since  have  become  extinct,  were  it  not  for  the  frequent 
visits  of  whalemen  in  their  erratic  movements,  that  have 
often  rescued  them  from  the  last  extremes  of  distress, 
when  utter  extermination  was  staring  them  in  the  face. 
And  not  only  have  facilities  for  communicating  with 
their  native  land  been  thus  extended  to  the  colonists,  but 
their  persons  and  property  have  often  been  protected 
from  the  ruthless  and  capricious  dispositions  of  the  na- 
tives by  the  timely  arrival  of  a  whaler  with  his  brave 
crew  inured  to  danger  in  its  most  formidable  aspects. 

The  knowledge  of  the  Polynesian  islands  dissemina- 
ted by  the  whaler,  has  led  to  the  establishment  of  the 
missionaries  of  the  cross  among  those  rude  islanders. 
It  is  true  that  many  masters  of  vessels  with  their  crews 
have  conducted  most  shamefully  in  their  intercourse 
with  the  natives,  and  have  placed  every  obstacle  in  their 


128  WHALE    FISHERY. 

power  in  the  way  of  the  missionaries  ;  yet  there  are  ma- 
ny instances  of  these  devoted  men  having  received  great 
assistance  and  encouragement  in  their  labors,  seconded 
by  the  good  wishes  and  efforts  of  pious  masters  of  whale 
ships.  And  the  facility  of  communication  thus  afforded 
with  their  dear  friends  at  home,  which  I  have  before  ad- 
verted to,  softens  their  fate,  separated  forever,  perhaps, 
from  home  and  their  native  land,  a  privilege  which  no 
one  can  fully  appreciate,  unless  he  has  long  resided  in  a 
region  remote  from  all  he  holds  dear. 

With  the  name  of  fisherman  we  are  apt  to  associate 
ideas  of  rudeness  and  ignorance ;  but  as  a  general  fact, 
the  crews  of  our  whalemen  are  fully  as  intelligent  as 
the  average  of  seamen.  To  leave  home  and  country — 
to  be  absent  for  several  years  with  the  expectation  of  fa- 
cing danger  in  every  aspect,  some  of  which  are  pecu- 
liarly formidable,  evince  some  resolution.  Besides, 
most  of  the  crew  of  whalemen  are  young  men,  with 
whom  the  stirring  scenes  and  dangers  of  the  whaling 
business  have  a  romantic  charm,  which  comports  well 
with  their  adventurous  spirits.  Their  officers  are  many 
of  them  scientific  navigators,  and  the  trust  of  property 
to  an  amount  sometimes  exceeding  one  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars,  placed  at  their  discretion,  proves  them  to 
be  men  of  responsibility  and  character.  To  keep  in 
subjection  such  numerous  crews,  often  composed  too,  of 
representatives  from  all  nations,  requires  no  moderate 
ability  and  firmness.  Mutinies  very  rarely  occur,  al- 
though, I  presume  the  discipline  is  not  so  high  as  in  the 
average  of  merchantmen  ;  a  fact,  which,  considering  the 
long  voyages  into  remote  seas,  where  law  has  sunk  behind 
the  wave,  indicates  that  a  respect  for  constituted  authority 
does  not  spring  so  much  from  fear,  as  that  it  orignates 
in  a  firm  conviction  of  its  indispensable  necessity. 


WHALING    PORTS.  129 

As  a  situation  for  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  sea-faring 
life,  the  whaling  business  bears  an  important  relation  to 
the  maritime  affairs  of  our  country.  It  would  seem 
strange  indeed,  if  a  good  knowledge  of  duty  aboard  ship 
were  not  gained  during  a  three  years'  voyage.  Coolness 
and  intrepidity  in  danger,  those  indispensable  qualifica- 
tions in  the  character  of  a  seaman,  are  taught  by  expo- 
sure to  every  variety  of  peril.  "  If  the  longest  voyages 
that  are  made  over  the  ocean — if  the  navigation  of  every 
sea  on  the  globe,  serene  or  boisterous — if  the  strictest 
discipline  and  subordination  of  large  crews  constitute  a 
nursery  for  seamen,  we  have  one  which  it  should  be  our 
pride  and  duty  to  protect."     (North  American  Review.) 

We  will  now  endeavor  to  give  a  slight  sketch  of  the 
distinguishing  characteristics  of  the  sperm  whale,  which 
shew  clearly  that  he  belongs  to  a  variety  of  cetacea  en- 
tirely homogeneous. 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  arriving  at  a  more  definite 
knowledge  of  the  whale  fishery  in  its  various  depart- 
ments, can  do  so  by  consulting  the  following  statistics. 
For  the  table  of  the  imports  of  sperm  and  right  whale 
oil  into  thd  United  States  for  the  past  year,  I  am  indebt- 
ed to  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Henry  Havens,  of  New-Lon- 
don, who  has  been  indefatigable  in  gathering  accurate 
information  of  the  cargo  of  every  whale  ship  upon  her 
arrival  at  the  port  of  destination.  It  exhibits  better  than 
mere  assertion  can  do,  the  immense  importance  of  the 
whale  fishery  as  a  department  of  commercial  industry. 

Statement  of  the  American  Whale  Fishery,  exhibit- 
ing the  number  of  vessels  employed,  and  the  port 
from  which  they  are  fitted  out. 


Nantucket    .     .     .     ,*$g3 
New-Bedford  ...     184 


Holmes'  Hole    ....  4 
Providence     ....     3 


130 


WHALE    F 


H  E  R  Y 


Fair  Haven  . 
Sag  Harbor 
New-London 
Warren 
Salem .     . 
Newport     . 
Stonington 
Westport    . 
Edgar  town 
Hudson 
Falmouth 
Mattapoisett 
Fall  River 
Mystic  .     . 
Sippican  . 
Wilmington, 
Poughkeepsie 
Bristol    .     . 
Greenport     . 


Del 


47 
31 
36 
19 
11 
10 
9 

10 
11 
6 
7 
8 
6 
7 
7 
4 
6 
8 
5 


Wareham 5 

Dartmouth      ....     3 

Bridgeport 3 

Lynn 2 

Newburyport    ....  2 

Plymouth 6 

Boston 6 

Dorchester  ....  2 
Provincetown  ....  4 
Cold  Spring  ....  2 
New-Suffolk     ....  1 

Jamesport 1 

Newark 3 

Wiscasset 1 

Portsmouth 1 

Portland 1 

Somerset 1 

Gloucester 1 


Total, 


567. 


This  large  fleet  embraces  vessels  of  all  classes ;  the 
greater  proportion,  however,  are  ships  or  barques  vary- 
ing from  two  hundred  to  five  hundred  tons'  burden.  For 
the  equipment  of  so  large  a  number  of  ships,  which  is 
done  with  a  liberality  not  common  in  the  merchant  ser- 
vice, an  immense  amount  of  capital  is  requisite.  "  The 
outfits  required  for  a  whaling  ship,  constitute  no  incon- 
siderable item  of  the  expense,  amounting  in  a  vessel 
which  is  fitted  for  a  three  years'  voyage,  to  no  less  a 
sum  than  $18,000.  The  hull  not  unfrequently  costs 
$20,000  more,  while  many  are  sailed  whose  total  cost 
does  not  vary  far  from  $60,000.  The  principal  kind  of 
provisions  required  for  the  crew  upon  their  voyage,  con- 
sists of  beef  and  pork,  bread,  molasses,  peas,  beans,  corn, 
potatoes,  dried  apples,  coffee,  tea,  chocolate,  butter,  be- 
sides from  three  to  four  thousands  [?]  of  casks,  made 


ITATISTICS    OF    WHALING. 


131 


from  white  oak,  and  a  quantity  of  spare  duck,  cordage, 
and  other  articles  which  may  be  required  in  the  course 
of  the  voyage." 

The  quantity  of  oil  imported  into  the  United  States 
from  March  1840  to  March  1841,  is  indicated  by  the 
following  table  giving  the  monthly  amount  in  barrels. 


March 

April        -    -    -    - 

May        

June  -    -    -    - 

July  ...    - 

August  -     -     - 

September      -     -    - 
October         -     -     - 
November  -    - 

December  -    -     • 

January  -     -     - 

February      -    -     - 

Total 


ight  Whale. 

Sperm. 

21,119 

10,810 

21,785 

18,534 

47,166 

22, 358 

20,274 

29,620 
11,595 

14,833 

14,575 

9,535 

14,160 

12,225 

12,923 

15,200 

2,000 

4,100 

2,600 

7  250 

2,712 

1,895 

12,043 

11,948 

197,997 


143,269 


In  estimating  the  value  of  these  imports  we  will 
consider  right  whale  oil  worth  about  thirty  five  cents 
per  gallon,  and  sperm  oil  about  ninety  cents  at  the 
lowest ;  197,  997  bbls.,  are  equal  to  6,236,905  gallons 
the  aggregate  of  right  whale  oil,  the  value  of  which  is 
not  far  from  $2,182,817.  The  aggregate  importation 
of  sperm  oil,  amounts  to  143,269  bbls.  or  4,512,973 
gallons,  which  at  90  cents  per  gallon,  is  worth  about 
$4,061,675. 

Thus  in  the  space  of  one  year,  there  has  been  drawn 
from  the  depths  of  the  sea,  and  imported  into  the  United 
States,  property   to  the   amount  of   six  millions,  two 


132  WHALE     FISHERY. 

hundred  and  forty-four  thousand  four  hundred  and 
ninety-tioo  dollars. 

In  this  calculation,  I  have  not  introduced  the  imports 
of  elephant  and  blackfish  oil,  not  unimportant  items. 
The  sea  elephant  is  found  in  immense  numbers  upon 
some  of  the  lonely  islands  of  the  ocean,  particularly  in 
the  Indian  Ocean.  One  of  our  boatsteerers  returned  just 
before  shipping  aboard  the  North  America,  from  a  voy- 
age to  the  island  of  Desolation  in  latitude  50°  south, 
longitude  70°  east,  and  has  given  me  many  accounts  of 
the  dangers  and  toils  he  encountered  at  that  lonely 
island,  the  name  of  which  very  appropriately  indicates 
its  character.  In  these  expeditions,  the  ship  is  provided 
with  a  tender,  a  schooner  of  from  seventy  to  ninety  tons, 
which  runs  around  into  every  bay  and  close  in  along  the 
shore  of  the  island,  while  her  consort  lies  safely  at 
anchor  in  some  harbor.  Whenever  a  large  number  of 
these  elephants  are  seen  drawn  up  in  dense  array  upon 
the  beach,  a  body  of  men  are  sent  ashore  armed  with 
clubs,  who  commence  laying  about  them  on  each 
side  until  all  are  killed  that  have  not  been  so  fortunate 
as  to  make  their  escape  into  the  sea.  The  skins  of  the 
slaughtered  animals  are  then  taken  off,  and  the  carcass 
is  abandoned  after  removing  the  blubber  which  imme- 
diately envelopes  it.  This  is  hoisted  aboard  the  schooner, 
and  the  men  after  suffering  from  the  cold  and  severe 
fatigues,  and  drenched  with  salt  water,  return  to  their  con- 
sort, aboard  which  the  blubber  is  received  and  tried  out. 
This  oil  is  rather  more  valuable  than  right  whale  oil,  and 
the  shortness  of  the  voyage  which  rarely  exceeds  a  year, 
renders  the  expedition  a  highly  profitable  adventure. 

The  whalebone  imported  into  the  United  States, 
familiar  to  every  one  from  the  varied  purposes  to  which 
it  is  applied,  is  an  important  item  in   the  calculation 


COMPENDIUM.  133 

which  I  have  not  yet  considered.  The  quantity  imported 
in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  right  whale  oil,  indi- 
cated by  the  preceding  table,  cannot  be  far  from  1,500, 
000  barrels,  which  at  twenty  cents  per  pound  gives  us 
as  the  result,  $300,000.  Adding  this  sum  to  the  previous 
calculations,  the  value  of  imports  of  the  whale  fishery 
for  one  year  is  swollen  to  the  amount  of  six  millions 
Jive  hundred  and  forty  four  thousand  four  hundred  and 
ninety-two  dollars. 

IS 


CHAPTER  XI. 

VARIETIES  OF  THE  WHALE., 


The  Sperm  Whale— Spermaceti— Ambergris— Right  Whale — 
Size — Food  —  Fin-back  Whale  —  Difficulty  of  capture — 
Hump-back  Whale — Conflicts  of  Whales  with  one  another 
— Loss  of  the  Whaler  "Essex." 


We  will  now  endeavor  to  give  a  slight  sketch  of  the 
distinguishing  characteristics  of  the  sperm  whale,  which 
show  clearly  that  he  belongs  to  a  variety  of  cetacea 
entirely  homogeneous.  There  are  five  different  varieties 
of  whales,  commonly  known  to  whalers,  pre-eminent 
among  which,  is  the  cachalot  or  sperm  whale,  whose 
value  upon  a  fair  comparison,  is  about  treble  that  of  any 
other  variety. 

The  sperm  whale,  (physeter  macercephalus,)  is  a 
deep  sea  whale,  that  is,  he  is  rarely  found  in  green 
water,  and  in  his  migrations,  he  never  wanders  off  into 
the  Frigid  Zones,  where  innumerable  herds  of  cetacea  con- 
gregate. His  favorite  haunts  lie  within  the  tropics,  or  not 
far  from  their  borders,  where  the  "  squid  "  (sepia  octopus) 
upon  which  he  feeds,  seem  to  be  most  abundant,  and 
grow  to  the  largest  size.  The  sperm  whale,  as  I  have 
before  remarked,  upon  a  former  page,  is  armed  with 
teeth  in  the  lower  jaw,  slightly  curved  inwards  for  the 
holding  of  his  prey.  His  spiracle,  or  "  spoutrhole,'1  is  in 
the  upper  angle  of  his  head,  and  the  air  when  ejected 
from  the  lungs,  is  blown  forwards,  condensing  in  a  large 


SPERM     WHALE.  135 

white  jet,  resembling  a  puff  of  steam,  instead  of  the  thin 
perpendicular  jet  thrown  up  by  the  other  varieties  of 
whales.  The  regularity  and  number  of  his  spouts  are 
distinguishing  characteristics,  and  it  is  remarkable  how 
exact  in  point  of  time,  are  the  intervals  elapsing  between 
each  spout.  When  he  descends  again  to  the  depths  of 
the  ocean,  the  time  that,  passes  before  his  re-appearance, 
is  carefully  noted  by  the  whaler,  which  enables  him  to 
calculate  with  accuracy  his  return  to  the  surface,  when- 
ever he  disappears.  The  other  varieties  of  whales, 
seldom  or  never  remain  beneath  the  surface  of  water 
as  long  as  the  sperm  whale.  The  habit  of  «  breech- 
ing," or  throwing  himself  out  of  water,  and  of  "turning 
flukes,"  or  vibrating  his  tail  in  the  air  as  he  descends, 
are  other  peculiarities  found  more  frequent  in  this 
variety  than  in  any  other.  From  these  characteristics, 
as  well  as  from  others  that  might  be  mentioned,  the 
experienced  whaler  can  readily  distinguish  the  sperm 
whale,  even  when  at  the  distance  of  many  miles,  which 
was  astonishing  to  me  when  I  could  scarcely  see 
anything  at  all. 

The  sperm  whale  is  a  much  more  valuable  prize  to 
his  captors,  than  any  other  variety.  All  the  oil  tried  out 
from  his  blubber,  contains  a  certain  proportion  of  sperm- 
aceti, while  the  «  head  matter"  is  almost  pure  sperma- 
ceti. At  the  completion  of  the  voyage,  the  oil  is  drawn 
from  the  casks,  and  after  a  process  of  boiling  and  cooling, 
it  is  put  into  vats,  which  detain  the  spermaceti  mixed 
with  oil,  a  yellowish  viscous  substance.  This  is  put 
into  strong  canvass  bags,  and  subjected  to  a  screw  press, 
and  afterwards  to  the  tremendous  pressure  of  the  hy- 
draulic engine,  when  the  oily  matter  is  expelled  and 
leaves  the  spermaceti  in  hard  concrete  masses,  which 
after  boiling  with  potash  and  purifying,  is  moulded  into 


136  VARIETIES     OF     THE     WHALE. 

those  beautiful  candles,  which  vie  with  our  gas  lights  in 
brilliancy. 

The  origin  of  ambergris,  once  pronounced  to  be  the 
"  occultum  naturse,"  which  for  many  years  puzzled  the 
speculations  of  philosophers,  was  at  length  satisfactorily 
determined  by  some  Nantucket  whalers,  "  who  in  cutting 
up  a  spermaceti  bull  whale,  found  accidentally  in  him 
about  twenty  pounds  weight,  more  or  less,  of  that  drug, 
after  which,  they  and  other  such  fishermen  became  very 
curious  in  searching  all  such  whales  they  killed."  Am- 
bergris is  nothing  more  than  the  indurated  feces  of  the 
sperm  whale,  caused  by  disease  in  the  organs  of  diges- 
tion in  which  the  substance  takes  its  origin,  enlarging 
and  hardening  gradually,  causing  great  distress  to  the 
poor  animal,  whose  sickly  appearance  indicates  that  this 
valuable  drug  or  perfume,  is  lodged  in  his  intestines. 
"  The  use  of  ambergris  in  Europe,"  says  Brande,  "  is  now 
nearly  confined  to  perfumery,  though  it  was  formerly 
used  in  medicine  by  many  eminent  physicians.  In  Asia, 
and  part  of  Africa,  ambergris  is  not  only  used  as  a 
medicine  and  perfume,  but  considerable  use  is  also  made 
of  it  in  cooking,  by  adding  it  to  several  dishes  as  a  spice. 
A  great  quantity  of  it  also  is  constantly  bought  by  the 
pilgrims  who  travel  to  Mecca,  probably  to  offer  it  there 
and  make  use  of  it  in  fumigations  in  the  same  manner 
as  frankincense  is  used  in*Catholic  countries." 

Masses  of  ambergris  are  often  thrown  up  by  the 
diseased  sperm  whale  in  his  convulsive  agonies,  when 
struck  with  the  harpoon,  and  are  found  floating  upon  the 
surface  of  the  ocean.  One  of  the  sailors  told  me  that  he 
once  picked  up  a  floating  piece,  which  he  sold  for  twenty 
dollars,  after  reaching  home.  It  is  of  a  yellowish  brown 
color,  with  numerous  dark  spots  in  it,  which  are  the  bills 
or  beaks  of  the  squid  upon  which  the  animal  feeds; 


RIGHT     WHALE.  137 

when  heated,  a  fragrant  odor  is  exhaled,  which,  like  the 
perfume  of  musk,  is  highly  grateful  to  some  persons,  but 
exceedingly  disagreeable  to  others. 

The  right  whale,  (balaena  mysticetus,)  is  found  most 
abundantly  in  the  Arctic  seas,  upon  the  banks  of  Brazil 
down  as  far  as  Cape  Horn,  and  in  that  latitude  all  over 
the  world,  particularly  in  the  neighborhood  of  islands. 
Though  of  such  an  enormous  size  as  to  yield  in  some 
instances  of  individuals  found  in  the  Northern  seas,  over 
two  hundredbanels  of  oil,  he  feeds  upon  the  most  minute 
animalculae,  some  varieties  of  which  are  almost  micros- 
copic. Adapted  to  this  mode  of  procuring  subsistence, 
he  has  a  peculiar  construction  of  the  mouth,  which  is  an 
immense  cavity,  containing  a  tongue  yielding  in  many 
instances,  over  six  barrels  of  oil.  The  whalebone,  such 
as  we  see  in  the  construction  of  umbrellas,  and  which 
the  ladies  make  use  of  for  various  purposes  better  known 
to  themselves  than  to  me,  is  set  in  thick  slabs  upon  the 
upper  jaw,  having  long  and  slender  fibrous  fringes  upon 
the  edges,  by  means  of  which,  when  the  jaws  are  closed, 
the  water  engulfed  by  the  animal  while  feeding,  is 
strained  through,  leaving  the  animalcules  behind.  All 
whalers  are  agreed  that  if  Jonah  was  swallowed  by  any 
of  the  cetaceous  family,  the  right  whale,  par  excel- 
lence, was  selected  for  the  honor  of  "  receiving  a  Prophet." 
To  satisfy  the  wants  of  this  immense  animal,  what 
myriads  upon  myriads  of  animalculae  must  swarm  in 
those  artic  regions  !  Captain  Scoresby  made  some  attempt 
to  estimate  their  numbers  in  a  given  space,  but  finding 
the  calculations  burdensome  from  the  size  of  the  arith- 
metical numbers,  he  indicates  their  inconceivable  extent 
by  observing  that  "  eighty  thousand  men  would  be  em- 
ployed during  the  period  elapsed  since  the  creation  of 
the  world  in  counting  two  square  miles  of  them."     The 

12* 


138  VARIETIES     OF     THE     WHALE. 

right  whales  frequenting  the  coasts  of  Brazil,  and  the 
Southern  oceans,  feed  upon  "  shrimp"  animalculas  of  a  blood 
red  color,  which  sometimes  make  their  appearance  in  such 
vast  numbers  as  to  give  to  the  waters  a  crimson  hue. 
The  shape  of  the  right  whale,  differs  much  from  that 
of  the  cachalot.  He  is  larger  round  in  proportion, 
having  no  hump  upon  his  back,  but  is  provided  with 
longer  and  wider  side  fins.  His  spiracle  is  situated 
some  distance  from  the  extremity  of  the  snout  upon 
the  top  of  his  head,  and  his  spout  issues  in  a  thin  forked 
stream  to  a  greater  height,  and  at  less  regular  intervals, 
than  is  the  case  with  the  cachalot. 

Ships  fitted  out  for  a  voyage  after  right  whale  oil,  are 
regarded  as  inferior  to  sperm  whalers  ;  they  return  home 
much  sooner,  however,  full  of  oil,  which  is  applied  to 
various  purposes  of  the  arts,  but  is  a  poor  substitute  for 
sperm  oil  in  our  lamps. 

The  Fin  back  whale  is  found  all  over  the  ocean. 
As  his  name  implies,  he  has  a  large  thin  fin  upon  his 
back ;  he  has  also  a  long  projecting  snout,  from  the  back 
part  of  which  his  spout  issues  in  a  broad  white  jet,  like 
that  of  the  sperm  whale,  a  source  often  of  considerable 
perplexity  to  the  sperm  whaler.  As  a  distinguishing 
characteristic,  however,  he  never  "  breaches  "  or  throws 
himself  out  of  water,  and  by  the  attentive  listener,  when 
this  whale  blows,  a  sound  is  heard,  like  a  heavy  sigh 
succeeding  it,  called  by  whalers  the  "draw  back/' 
This  variety  yields  but  little  oil,  and  this  circumstance, 
together  with  the  extreme  hazard  of  attacking  him, 
give  him  carte  blanche  to  rove  wherever  he  chooses. 
An  instance  of  an  attack  upon  a  fin  back  whale  has 
been  narrated  to  me  by  an  eye  witness.  The 
moment  the  iron  was  hurled  into  the  whale,  he 
darted  off  with  the  velocity  of  lightning,  taking  the  line 


HUMP    BACK    WHALE.  139 

instantly  out  of  the  boat,  which  the  men  were  afraid  to 
turn  round  the  loggerhead  to  oppose  his  impetuous 
course,  and  with  the  foaming  waves  parted  on  each  side 
of  his  furious  track,  he  disappeared  beyond  the  horizon 
before  two  minutes  had  elapsed  ! 

The  Hump  back  whale  resembles  the  Fin  Back 
variety,  but  in  place  of  the  fin  upon  his  back,  he  has  a 
hump  like  that  of  the  cachalot.  His  spout  issues  in  two 
perpendicular  shafts  like  that  of  the  right  whale,  and 
with  considerable  regularity,  which  circumstances 
together  with  his  habit  of  "  breaching  "  frequently,  a  la 
cachalot,  are  sometimes  perplexing  to  the  sperm  whaler. 
The  hump  back  is  not  so  often  hunted  as  the  other 
varieties,  by  the  whaler.  He  has  two  long  side  fins 
which  he  throws  around  with  great  fury  as  he  rolls  over 
and  over  in  his  dying  agonies.  His  favorite  haunt 
appears  to  be  in  the  green  water  upon  the  western  coast 
of  South  America,  where  he  feeds  upon  the  animalculae 
that  crowd  those  seas,  for  which  in  common  with  the 
fin  back,  he  is  provided  with  an  apparatus  like  that  of 
the  right  whale :  the  slabs  of  baleen,  (whale-bone,) 
in  the  two  varieties  mentioned  are  said  however  to  be 
shorter  than  in  the  balaena  mysticetus.  "  One  evening 
while  we  were  on  the  coast  of  Peru,"  (said  a  friend 
of  mine  as  he  was  giving  me  the  particulars  of  a  voy- 
age he  had  once  taken,)  "we  lay  becalmed  in  a  fog 
near  sunset,  when  our  little  schooner  was  suddenly 
surrounded  by  a  large  school  of  hump  back  whales, 
that  commenced  "breaching"  close  along  side  of  us, 
rising  as  it  seemed  directly  under  our  little  craft,  and 
throwing  their  immense  bodies  out  of  the  water,  not 
reflecting  that  what  was  sport  to  them  might  be  death  to 
us.  In  a  half  an  hour  we  lost  sight  of  our  unwelcome 
visitors,  during  which  time  we  were  in  a  state  of  terror 


140  VARIETIES     OP    THE     WHALE. 

and  alarm,  lest  they  should  dash  us  to  pieces  in  their 
boisterous  gambols." 

There  are  many  other  varieties  of  cetacea  which  are 
hunted  for  their  oil,  but  a  consideration  of  them  would 
be  tedious,  if  what  I  have  already  advanced  has  not 
proved  to  be  so,  and  I  pass  by  them  in  silence. 

To  form  any  definite  idea  of  objects  we  have  not  seen, 
whose  dimensions  are  given,  we  must  do  so  by  compari- 
son with  the  size  of  objects  familiar  to  us.  It  appears,  as 
far  as  I  have  been  able  to  gather  from  various  sources, 
that  the  sperm  whale  is  unrivalled  in  magnitude  in 
animated  nature,  and  that  the  dimensions  of  the  antedi- 
luvian monsters,  ascertained  with  sufficient  definiteness 
from  their  organic  remains,  are  transcended  by  the  vast- 
ness  of  their  successors.  The  fin  back  sometimes 
attains  to  an  enormous  size,  but  is  usually  inferior  to  the 
other  varieties  in  magnitude.  The  right  whale  holds 
the  second  place ;  "  of  three  hundred  and  twenty-two 
individuals  of  this  species,"  (says  Scoresby,)  "the  largest 
we  ever  measured,  was  fifty  eight  feet  in  length."  Right 
whales  are  sometimes  found  of  dimensions  so  vast  as  to 
yield  over  two  hundred  barrels  of  oil.  Accounts  have 
lately  been  received  of  their  having  made  their  appear- 
ance in  the  north  Pacific,  north  of  latitude  40°,  in  great 
numbers  and  of  enormous  dimensions,  so  that  some 
sperm  whalers  have  given  up  the  pursuit  of  their  pecu- 
liar game  upon  the  "Japan  cruising  grounds,"  and  have 
commenced  hunting  the  right  whale.  A  few  captures 
of  whales,  each  making  two  hundred  barrels  of  oil,  would 
soon  fill  up  a  ship  carrying  twenty  six  hundred  barrels, 
the  average  capacity  of  whalers,  and  the  successful 
voyager  would  be  making  his  way  home  before  the  year 
has  expired,  instead  of  being  doomed  to  cruise  about  all 


CONFLICTS    OF    WHALES.  141 

over  the  ocean  for  three  or  four  years  after  a  more  valua- 
ble, but  less  certain  cargo. 

But  the  sperm  whale  is  the  mightiest  of  the  mon- 
sters of  the  deep.  Beale,  in  his  highly  interesting 
account  of  the  Sperm  Whale  Fishery,  mentions  an 
instance  of  the  capture  of  a  male  cachalot  that  meas- 
ured about  eighty-four  feet  in  length.  The  dimen- 
sions of  the  largest  elephants  seldom  exceed  six- 
teen feet  in  length,  fourteen  feet  in  height,  and  eight 
feet  in  diameter;  what  an  enormous  bulk  must  this 
whale  have,  to  be  more  than  five  times  as  large  as 
the  Elephant,  the  "  ingens  bellua,"  with  whose  unexpec- 
ted presence  and  vastness,  Pyrrhus  endeavored  to  terrify 
the  intrepid  Fabricius  !  * 

Though  ordinarily  of  a  peaceful  and  sluggish  dispo- 
sition, yet  the  sperm  whale  may  be  roused  to  fury,  and 
the  conflicts  of  two  large  bulls  is  described  as  terrific  in 
the  extreme.  They  rush  together  with  a  tremendous 
shock,  lashing  the  sea  into  foam  in  the  fury  of  the  onset, 
and  grasp  each  his  adversary  in  his  formidable  jaws, 
while  with  their  bodies  thrown  high  out  of  water  and 
writhing  with  convulsive  efforts,  and  their  broad  flukes 
vibrating  with  rage,  they  present  a  sublime  spectacle  to 
the  beholder.  The  marks  of  their  teeth  upon  the  head 
of  their  opponent  are  indelible,  and  have  the  appearance 
of  ulcerous  sores. 

The  loss  of  the  whaler  Essex,  of  Nantucket,  is 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  in  the  history  of  the 
Sperm  Whale  Fishery.  A  narrative  of  that  event 
by  Owen  Chase,  mate  of  the  ship  gives  a  vivid  des- 
cription of  that  terrific  catastrophe.  "I  observed," 
(says    he,)   "a   very  large   spermaceti   whale,   as   well 


*  It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  the  male  Cachalot  greatly  exceeds  the  female 
in  magnitude,  while  in  the  right  whale  variety  the  case  is  reversed. 


142  VARIETIES    OF    THE    WHALE. 

as  I  could  judge,  about  eighty-five  feet  in  length.  He 
broke  water  about  twenty  rods  off  our  weather  bow,  and 
was  lying  quietly  with  his  head  in  a  direction  for  the  ship. 
He  spouted  two  or  three  times  and  then  disappeared. 
In  less  than  three  seconds,  he  came  np  again,  about 
the  length  of  the  ship  off',  and  made  directly  for  us,  at 
the  rate  of  about  three  knots.  The  ship  was  then  going 
with  about  the  same  velocity.  His  appearance  and  atti- 
tude gave  us  at  first  no  alarm ;  but  while  1  stood  watch- 
ing his  movements,  and  observing  him  but  a  ship's 
length  off,  coming  down  for  us  with  great  celerity,  I  in- 
voluntarily ordered  the  boy  at  the  helm  to  put  it  hard 
up,  intending  to  sheer  off  and  avoid  him.  The  words 
were  scarcely  out  of  my  mouth  before  he  came  down 
upon  us  at  full  speed,  and  struck  the  ship  with  his  head 
just  forward  of  the  forechains.  He  gave  us  such  an  ap- 
palling and  tremendous  jar,  as  nearly  threw  us  all  on 
our  faces.  The  ship  brought  up  as  suddenly  and  vio- 
lently as  if  she  had  struck  a  rock,  and  trembled  for  a 
few  minutes  like  a  leaf.*"  We  looked  at  each  other  in 
perfect  amazement,  deprived  almost  of  the  power  of 
speech.  Many  minutes  elapsed  before  we  were  able  to 
realize  the  dreadful  accident,  during  which  time  he 
passed  under  the  ship,  grazing  her  keel  as  he  went 
along,  came  up  alongside  her  to  leeward,  and  lay 
on  the  top  of  the  water,  apparently  stunned  with  the 
violence  of  the  blow,  for  the  space  of  a  minute.  He 
then  suddenly  started  off  in  a  direction  to  leeward.  Af- 
ter a  few  moments'  reflection,  and  recovering  in  some 
measure  from  the  consternation  that  had  seized  us,  I  of 
course  concluded  that  he  had  stove  a  hole  in  the  ship, 
and  that  it  would  be  necessary  to  set  the  pumps  a-going. 
Accordingly,  they  were  rigged,  but  had  not  been  in  ope- 


LOSS    OF    THE    WHALER    "ESSEX."  143 

ration  more  than  one  minute,  before  I  perceived  the 
head  of  the  ship  to  be  gradually  settling  down  in  the 
water.  I  then  ordered  the  signal  to  be  set  for  the  other 
boats— at  that  time  in  pursuit  of  whales — which  I  had 
scarcely  despatched,  before  I  again  discovered  the  whale 
apparently  in  convulsions,  on  the  top  of  the  water, 
about  one  hundred  rods  to  leeward.  He  was  enveloped 
in  the  foam,  that  his  continued  and  violent  threshing 
about  in  the  water  had  created  around  him,  and  I  could 
distinctly  see  him  smite  his  jaws  together  as  if  distracted 
with  rage  and  fury.  He  remained  a  short  time  in  this 
situation,  and  then  started  off  with  great  velocity  across 
the  bows  of  the  ship  to  windward.  By  this  time  the 
ship  had  settled  down  a  considerable  distance  in  the  wa- 
ter, and  I  gave  her  up  as  lost.  I,  however,  ordered  the 
pumps  to  be  kept  constantly  going,  and  endeavored  to 
collect  my  thoughts  for  the  occasion.  I  turned  to  the 
boats,  two  of  which  we  then  had  with  the  ship,  with  an 
intention  of  clearing  them  away  and  getting  all  things 
ready  to  embark  in  them,  if  there  should  be  no  other  re- 
source left.  While  my  attention  was  thus  engaged  for 
a  moment,  I  was  roused  by  the  cry  of  the  man  at  the 
hatchway,  'Here  he  is— he  is  making  for  us  again  !'  I 
turned  round  and  saw  the  whale  about  one  hundred  rods 
directly  ahead  of  us,  coming  down  with  apparently 
twice  his  ordinary  speed,  and  to  me  it  appeared  with 
ten-fold  fury  and  vengeance  in  his  aspect.  The  surf 
flew  in  all  directions,  and  his  course  towards  us  was 
marked  by  a  white  foam  of  a  rod  in  width,  which  he 
made  with  a  continual  violent  threshing  of  his  tail. 
His  head  was  about  half  out  of  water,  and  in  that  way 
he  came  upon,  and  again  struck  the  ship.  I  was  in 
hopes,  when  I  descried  him  making  for  us,  that  by  put- 
ting the  ship  away  immediately,  I  should  be  able  to 


144  VARIETIES    OF    THE    WHALE. 

cross  the  line  of  his  approach  before  he  could  get  up  to 
us,  and  thus  avoid,  what  I  knew,  if  he  should  strike  us 
again,  would  be  our  inevitable  destruction.  I  called  out 
to  the  helmsman  '  hard  up,'  but  she  had  not  fallen  off 
more  than  a  point  before  we  took  the  second  shock.  I 
should  judge  the  speed  of  the  ship  at  this  time,  to  have 
been  about  three  knots,  and  that  of  the  whale  about  six. 
He  struck  her  to  windward,  directly  under  the  cat-head, 
and  completely  stove  in  her  bows.  He  passed  under 
the  ship  again,  went  off  to  leeward,  and  we  saw  no 
more  of  him." 

This  dreadful  disaster  occurred  near  the  equator,  at 
the  distance  of  a  thousand  miles  from  land.  With  the 
scanty  provisions  and  equipments  they  could  save  from 
the  foundering  wreck,  twenty  men  embarked  in  three 
slender  whaleboats  upon  the  mighty  ocean  to  buffet  its 
surging  billows,  with  the  desperate  chance  of  being 
picked  up  by  some  cruiser  before  reaching  land,  which 
lay  at  such  a  distance,  as  almost  to  forbid  a  rational 
hope  of  success.  One  boat  was  never  heard  of  after- 
wards, and  was  probably  lost ;  with  a  fate  scarcely  more 
enviable,  the  crews  of  the  others,  experiencing  the  ex- 
tremest  misery  that  human  nature  can  endure,  were 
picked  up  at  sea  by  different  ships  nearly  two  thousand 
miles  from  the  scene  of  the  disaster.  So  horrible  was 
their  situation,  that  they  were  forced  to  draw  lots  to  de- 
cide which  of  their  number  should  be  killed  to  appease 
the  corroding  pangs  of  hunger. 

"  There  have  been  other  instances  of  shipwreck,  caus- 
ed by  the  shock  of  these  leviathans.  In  1807,  the  ship 
{ Union,'  of  Nantucket,  Captain  Gardner,  was  totally  lost 
between  Nantucket  and  the  Azores,  by  a  similar  concus- 
sion. But  no  other  instance  is  known,  in  which  the 
mischief  is  supposed  to  have  been  malignantly  designed 


INSTANCES    OF    SHIPWRECK.  145 

by  the  assailant,  and  the  most  experienced  whalers  be- 
lieve that  even  in  this  case,  the  attack  was  not  inten- 
tional. Mr.  Chase,  however,  could  not  be  persuaded  to 
think  so.  He  says  that  all  he  saw,  produced  on  his 
mind  the  impression  of  decided  and  calculating  mischief 
on  the  part  of  this  maddened  leviathan."  (North  Amer- 
ican Review.) 

13 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Amusements  and  mode  of  life  on  shipboard — Fishing — Mechan- 
ical  EMPLOYMENTS BlLL   OF   FARE. 


Among  the  various  amusements  which  make  the  time 
pass  away  pleasantly  aboard  ship,  catching  fish  is  one  of 
the  most  agreeable.  Vast  schools  of  fish  frequently  accom- 
pany ships  for  several  days  in  succession,  and  whalers 
are  often  surrounded  for  month  after  month  by  countless 
hosts  of  the  finny  tribe,  as  they  float  slowly  along  over 
the  ocean  within  the  tropics.  A  meal  of  fresh  fish 
can  be  had  at  any  time  by  trailing  a  fish  hook  overboard 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  for  whalers  to 
salt  down  several  barrels  of  these  fish  for  their  own  use, 
and  to  barter  them  away  with  the  natives  of  the  Pacific 
Islands.  When  a  ship  is  seen  to  be  surrounded  by  large 
schools  of  fish,  it  is  a  trick  sometimes  practised  by  a 
brother  whaler  to  run  down  close  to  her,  under  pretence 
of  speaking  her,  when  a  part,  if  not  the  whole  of  the 
school  abandon  their  old  friend  and  move  orT  with  the 
stranger,  a  piece  of  coquetry  very  similar  to  what 
obtains  sometimes  in  a  higher  order  of  animated  nature. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  fish  that  accompany 
ships,  the  most  common  of  which,  are  the  albacore  and 
botietta,  or  "skip  jack,"  as  he  is  called  by  the  sailors. 
Their  favorite  position  is  a  few  yards  in  advance  of  the 


FISHING.  14 

ship,  and  as  she  moves  steadily  forward,  parting  the  foam 
upon  each  side  of  the  cutwater,  they  glide  along  grace- 
fully from  side  to  side  of  her  track,  now  leaping  in  merry 
gambols  high  out  of  the  sea,  then  darting  forward  they 
cut  the  water  after  the  flying  fish,  with  their  eye  fixed 
upon  their  trembling  victim,  that  quivers  in  the  air, 
doubling  upon  his  pursuer,  until  he  falls  helpless  into 
his  greedy  jaws,  or  is  seized  while  on  the  wing. 
In  catching  these  fish,  advantage  is  taken  of  their  vora- 
cious and  merciless  disposition  towards  the  poor  flying 
fish.  A  strong  line  is  provided,  having  a  white  rag 
attached  to  a  large  hook  upon  one  end  of  it,  which  is 
kept  playing  upon  the  surface  of  the  water,  under  the 
bowsprit,  to  imitate  the  movements  of  their  prey.  If 
the  fish  are  disposed  to  bite,  they  spring  at  the  bait 
with  the  utmost  eagerness  and  are  instantly  hooked. 
Albacore  vary  in  size,  from  one  foot  to  those  that  are 
nearly  four  feet  long,  weighing  about  one  hundred 
pounds.  They  are  a  very  powerful  and  active  fish, 
and  the  largest  size  give  ample  employment  to  two 
or  three  men  in  securing  them  after  their  capture. 
The  Albacore  is  a  remarkably  beautiful  fish ;  his  pec- 
toral, ventral,  and  lateral  fins,  are  tipped  with  a  bright 
yellow,  while  all  along  from  his  hindmost  fins  towards 
his  tail,  is  set,  at  regular  intervals,  a  delicate  fin  like 
ruffle  also  tinged  with  the  same  brilliant  hue. 

The  Bonetta,  or  "  skip  jack,"  is  by  no  means  as  beau- 
tiful a  fish  as  the  albacore.  He  is  usually  about  eight- 
een inches  long,  very  similar  to  the  albacore  in  the  shape 
of  his  fins,  but  wanting  those  brilliant  hues  that  charac- 
terize the  latter.  His  size  renders  him  better  adapted  for 
capturing  with  a  hook  and  line  than  the  albacore ;  but 
owing  to  the  tenderness  of  his  jaw,  and  his  violent  con- 
vulsions when  caught,  the  hook  almost  always  tears  out 


47 


148  AMUSEMENTS    ON    SHIPBOARD. 

before  he  can  be  secured.  If  these  fish  are  grasped  with 
the  hand  while  dying,  their  tremulous  motion  is  so 
violent  as  to  benumb  the  arm,  as  if  it  had  been  exposed 
to  a  succession  of  galvanic  shocks.  One  of  the  officers 
to  express  this  peculiar  property  of  the  bonetta,  observed 
that  "  they  sometimes  shake  so  hard  as  to  shake  their 
own  heads  off." 

To  the  invalid  proposing  to  take  a  voyage,  for  the 
recovery  of  his  health,  a  whale  ship,  under  some  circum- 
stances, offers  many  inducements  over  any  other  mode 
of  conveyance.     The  excitement  of  whaling  operations  ; 
the  preparation  of  the  boats  and  their  armaments ;  the 
eager  enthusiasm  displayed  whenever  any  thing  is  seen 
by  the  lookouts,  the  dropping  of  books,  writing,  tailoring, 
and  the  hurrying  upon   deck ;   the  breathless  anxiety 
stimulated  by  hope ;   the   rattling  of  blocks,   running 
rigging  and  spars  as  the  ship  is  "  hove  to" — the  lowering 
of  the  boats — the  dash  of  the  oars  and  the  fearless  attack, 
all  combine  in   a  variety  of  highly  interesting  scenes, 
such  as  cannot  but  be  favorable  to  the  health  of  the 
invalid.     I  still  recollect  with  pleasure  the  first  time  we 
took  whales,  and  the  very  favorable  effect  it  had  upon 
my  health ;  my  bodily  ills  were  forgotten  in  the  engross- 
ing interest  of  the  novel  scenes  then  presented.     There 
are  some  persons,  I  know,  who  cannot  accommodate 
themselves  to  anything,  unless  it  happens  to  coincide 
with   their  accustomed  mode   of    life,   and   habits  of 
thinking.     It  is  something  of  a  struggle,  I  own,  to  bid 
farewell   to   home  and  country,  it  may  be   forever,  to 
voyage  over  the  mighty  deep  for  month  after  month,  and 
to  submit  to  the  privations  and  inconveniences  of  a  long 
voyage  ;  but  the  resolution  that  determines  unshrinking- 
ly upon  the  enterprise,  has  nerved  its  possessor  to  a  forti- 
tude that  will  enable  him  to  surmount  the  petty  obsta- 


MECHANICAL     EMPLOYMENTS.  149 

cles  he  encounters,  and  fit  him  to  enjoy  the  pure  atmos- 
phere of  the  ocean,  with  the  novel  scenes  it  presents. 
Let  me  especially  recommend  to  all  who  embark  upon  the 
ocean  for  the  recovery  of  their  health,  to  take  a  warm  and 
active  interest  in  every  thing  they  see ;  and  particularly, 
to  exclude  ennui,  that  incubus  upon  the  spirits  of 
invalids,  which  are  already  wanting  in  their  wonted 
elasticity. 

Aboard  whale  ships,  there  are  a  great  variety  of 
mechanical  employments,  constantly  going  on  in  good 
weather,  which  cannot  fail  of  interesting  one,  particularly 
if  he  has  any  taste  for  mechanics.  In  this  case,  the  car- 
penter's bench  and  chest  of  tools,  and  the  turning  lathe, 
give  him  a  fine  opportunity  for  exercise.  There  are 
found  aboard  a  whaler,  a  great  variety  of  small  tools 
expressly  intended  for  "schrimshawing"  or  nice  me- 
chanical contrivances  for  fabricating  various  articles  out 
of  the  teeth  and  jaw  bone  of  the  sperm  whale.  It  is 
customary  aboard  whalers,  whenever  they  happen  to  be 
in  the  neighborhood  of  islands  or  rocks,  to  send  off 
a  boat  or  two  upon  a  hunting  and  fishing  expedition, 
which  is  not  often  the  case  with  merchantmen  whose 
object  is  to  press  forward  as  rapidly  as  possible. 

There  are  several  very  fine  large  ships  engaged  in  the 
whaling  business,  and  as  a  general  thing  they  are  very 
fast  sailers,  an  important  qualification  often  in  securing 
success.  The  Sperm  Whale  Fishery  claims  the  finest 
vessels,  and  many  of  them  are  commanded  by  very 
gentlemanly  men,  In  the  fitting  out  of  a  whale  ship,  a 
liberality  on  the  part  of  the  owners  is  observed,  which  is 
almost  profuse  in  providing  every  thing  that  can  be 
thought  of  for  so  long  a  voyage,  A  whale  ship  must  be 
a  little  world  within  itself,  as  she  is  to  be  an  isolated 

13* 


150  LIVING     ON     SHIPBOARD. 

wanderer  upon  the  face  of  the  deep  for  several  years ; 
and  she  must  have  on  board  every  convenience  that  can 
be  thought  of,  from  a  paper  of  needles  up  to  the  sheet 
anchor.  When  a  whale  ship  goes  into  port  to  recruit, 
supplies  are  purchased  with  no  parsimonious  hand,  as 
we  shall  probably  have  occasion  to  witness. 

As  far  as  safety  is  concerned,  the  preference  most 
unquestionably  belongs  to  whale  ships.  In  the  American 
merchant  service  a  much  less  number  of  men  are  ship- 
ped to  navigate  a  given  tonnage  than  is  the  case  in  the 
whaling  service.  In  a  ship  of  four  hundred  tons  for 
instance,  sixteen  or  seventeen  men  "  all  told  "  would  be 
considered  her  complement,  giving  to  each  watch  seven 
men  perhaps,  whose  duty  is  alternately  to  take  care  of 
the  ship.  A  whaler  of  this  tonnage,  would  carry  over 
thirty  men,  giving  to  each  watch  double  the  force  of  the 
merchantmen.  There  are  many  occasions  when  it  is 
extremely  necessary  to  shorten  sail  with  rapidity,  or 
execute  some  maneuvre  with  great  expedition — as  for 
instance,  when  the  ship  is  "  taken  aback  "  in  a  gale  of 
wind  or  heavy  squall,  one  of  the  most  dangerous  posi- 
tions she  can  be  placed  in.  In  such  critical  emergencies 
that  demand  instant  action,  there  would  be  a  sufficient 
amount  of  force  in  the  watch  aboard  a  whaler  to  brace 
around  the  yards,  whereas  the  merchant  ship  is  some- 
times torn  to  pieces  or  carried  down  stern  first,  while 
waiting  for  the  watch  below  to  come  upon  deck,  from 
an  inability  of  those  upon  deck  to  work  the  ship. 

The  variety  of  climate  which  the  whaler  passes 
through  in  his  wanderings,  is  extremely  favorable  to  the 
recovery  of  one's  health.  From  the  cold  and  bracing  air 
of  the  high  latitudes,  he  makes  his  way  to  the  lovely 
regions  within  the  tropics,  possessing  a  climate  unrivalled 


BILL    OF     FARE.  151 

for  mildness  and  serenity,  and  so  equable,  that  a  resident 
in  our  capricious  atmosphere,  can  have  no  adequate  idea 
of  its  loveliness. 

The  regularity  of  life  aboard  ship,  is  indicated  by  the 
bill  of  fare  ;  and  perhaps  it  may  not  be  uninteresting  to 
know  what  one  must  subsist  upon  during  a  long  voyage 
like  the  one  I  am  pursuing ;  a  consideration  which  may 
not  have  entered  into  the  reader's  mind,  who  has  his 
market  and  grocery  store  close  at  hand,  where  every 
article  of  luxury,  for  the  table  is  displayed  to  the  purcha- 
ser. But  here  we  are  thousands  of  miles  from  our  native 
land,  provisioned  for  a  three  years'  cruise  or  more,  with 
the  exception  of  occasional  recruits  of  vegetables  and 
fruits.  Of  course  therefore,  salt  meats  and  hard  bread, 
furnish  by  far  the  greater  proportion  of  our  food,  and  to 
be  kept  upon  this  diet  for  month  after  month  is  not  the 
least  privation  of  a  seafaring  life. 

Hence  in  whale  ships,  bound  on  long  cruises,  that 
dreadful  disease,  the  scurvy  makes  its  appearance  more 
frequently  than  in  any  other  class  of  ships,  owing  to  an 
exclusion  from  vegetables  which  form  so  large  a  propor- 
tion of  the  fare  of  landsmen,  and  not  from  any  peculiarity 
in  the  mode  of  life  pursued  by  the  whaler,  as  has  been 
insinuated  by  some  travellers.  To  feel  the  full  force  of 
these  privations,  one  must  deny  himself  potatoes  and 
every  product  of  the  kitchen  garden,  and  confine  himself 
to  salt  beef  and  pork  with  hard  bread  or  some  preparation 
of  flour  or  meal.  He  must  go  without  milk  in  his  tea 
and  coifee,  for  it  will  be  recollected  that  "  the  cow  never 
comes  home"  at  sea.  He  must  slake  his  thirst  with 
water  of  so  high  a  temperature  as  to  answer  very  well 
as  an  emetic,  and  of  so  powerful  an  odor  frequently, 
when  just  pumped  into  the  skuttle  butt,  as  to  make  him 
hold  his  breath  for  a  long  interval  after  drinking  it.    Let 


152  LIVING     ON    SHIPBOARD. 

no  invalid  therefore,  come  to  sea  unless  he  possesses  the 
happy  faculty  of  accommodating  himself  to  circum- 
stances;  and  let  no  other  inducement  but  that  which 
sent  me  to  sea  draw  him  forth  from  home  with  its 
nameless  comforts  to  encounter  so  many  inevitable 
privations. 

Without  further  preamble,  I  will  endeavor  to  give  a 
slight  sketch  of  our  bill  of  fare.  "When  we  first  came  out, 
we  had  a  quantity  of  potatoes — a  sine  qua  non  upon  all 
occasions.  At  Fayal,  we  added  a  hundred  bushels  to  our 
stock  of  these  delightful  esculents,  which  were  served  out 
to  all  hands,  and  lasted  for  more  than  two  months.  Our 
fare  has  varied,  of  course,  with  our  supplies ;  but  in  the 
cabin,  the  established  order  for  dinner  is  as  follows.  On 
Monday,  corn  and  beans  and  pork,  sans  potatoes;  on 
Tuesday,  codfish  and  potatoes ;  on  Wednesday  mush 
and  beef;  on  Thursday,  corn  and  beans  and  pork  again  ; 
on  Friday,  rice  and  beef;  on  Saturday,  codfish  and 
potatoes  again ;  and  Sunday,  beef  and  duff,  a  sort  of 
pudding  known  universally  to  sailors.  A  ship  without 
her  duff  on  Sunday,  would  be  considered  by  all  sailors, 
as  certainly  heterodox,  as  would  the  celebration  of  Christ- 
mas  appear  to  an  Englishman  without  his  plumb 
pudding,  or  of  thanksgiving  in  New  England  without 
pumpkin  pies.  The  receipt  for  duff,  used  by  Mr.  Free- 
man our  primum  mobile  in  such  things,  is  as  follows : 
■  To  a  quantity  of  flour,  more  or  less,  (more  would  be 
preferable  in  Mr.  F's  opinion,)  wet  up  with  equal  parts 
of  salt  and  fresh  water  and  well  stirred,  add  a  quantity 
of  "slush"  or  lard,  and  yeast;  the  mixture  to  be  boiled 
in  a  bag,  until  it  can  be  dropped  from  the  top-gallant 
cross-trees  upon  deck,  without  breaking,  when  it  is 
cooked." 

This  has  been  the  bill  of  fare  for  all  on  board,  and 


BILL     OF    FARE.  153 

such  has  been  its  regularity,  that  our  calender  is  deter- 
mined by  it,  and  the  days  of  the  week  are  fancifully 
named,  "mush  day,"  "duff  day,"  corresponding  to 
Wednesday  and  Sunday  old  style.  With  the  failure  of 
potatoes,  our  bill  of  fare  has  met  with  sundry  important 
changes,  and  we  have  had  to  adopt  another  mode  of 
reckoning  time.  Our  breakfasts  and  suppers  are  some- 
what similar  to  our  dinners,  with  the  addition  in  the  cabin 
and  steerage  of  "  flippers,"  or  "  slapjacks,"  for  breakfast, 
and  occasionally  for  supper.  All  things  considered,  our 
fare  is  good  enough ;  it  is  wholesome,  which  ought  to 
satisfy  a  reasonable  man  while  at  sea ;  and  besides,  our 
viands  are  discussed  with  a  hearty  good  will,  which 
renders  them  much  more  palatable.  Though  our 
simple  meal  is  spread  out  upon  a  pine  table,  and 
our  dining  service  is  not  the  most  elegant,  yet  I 
came  to  sea  to  recover  my  health  and  not  in  pursuit  of 
luxuries ;  and  while  participating  in  our  frugal  meal 
with  the  captain  and  his  officers,  whose  open  hearted 
kindness  has  made  me  almost  forget  my  wide  separation 
from  home,  I  do  not  envy  the  luxurious  epicure  whose 
companions  may  indeed  be  more  polished,  but  possibly 
less  noble  and  disinterested. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

CRUISE   IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Perilous  incidents  of  a  whaler's  life — Blackfish,  capture, 
description,  and  habits — squid  or  cuttle  fish — large  schools 
of  sperm  whales — terrific  approach  to  the  ship — laws 
of  whaling  among  the  craft — turtles — brilliant  phos- 
phorescence.        * 

The  hazardous  profession  of  the  experienced  whaler, 
is  a  chapter  of  personal  adventures.  Narrow  escapes 
from  death,  mark  his  career,  and  the  ordinary  dangers  to 
which  he  is  exposed;  the  prospect  of  which  often  blanch- 
es the  cheek  of  the  novice,  have  become  familiar  and  are 
forgotten  in  the  ardor  of  his  exciting  pursuit.  The  tedious 
hours  of  the  dog  watch  in  the  evening  have  often  been 
beguiled  by  the  officers  with  their  tales  of  adventures 
during  former  voyages,  while  we  have  been  walking  the 
deck  or  lounging  in  the  boats.  Capt  Richards  has  led 
rather  the  most  exciting  life  of  any  of  us.  Upon  two 
occasions,  he  has  been  knocked  out  of  the  boat  by  a 
stroke  from  the  flukes  of  a  whale  while  he  was  leaning 
over  in  the  opposite  direction  and  looking  out  for  the 
whale  as  he  rose  to  the  surface  of  the  water.  Upon 
another  occasion,  he  was  thrown  several  feet  into  the 
air  by  a  whale  coming  up  suddenly  under  the  boat,  and 
as  he  fell  struck  upon  the  head  of  the  whale,  but  fortu- 
nately received  no  injury.  At  another  time  when  among 
a  school  of  right  whales,  one  of  the  boats  close  by  him 
was  placed  in  a  very  critical  position.  A  large  whale 
that  had  been  struck,  upon  coming  up  to  blow,  shot  up, 


155 

flukes  first,  which  glancing  along  the  side  of  the  boat, 
hung  over  the  terrified  crew,  as  if  ready  to  annihilate 
them  in  an  instant.  The  men  sprang  out  of  the  boat  to 
avert  the  impending  fate,  except  the  officer  commanding 
her,  who  retained  his  post  undaunted,  awaiting  the  fury 
of  the  agonized  monster,  who  in  an  instant,  however, 
withdrew  his  enormous  flukes,  and  gliding  them  under 
the  boat,  knocked  the  two  men  that  were  hanging  to  the 
gunnel,  into  the  boat !  I  would  not  venture  to  state  a 
thing  apparently  so  incredible,  had  I  not  been  assured  of 
the  fact  upon  such  unquestionable  authority. 

Monday^  March  9.  For  some  time  past,  great  num- 
bers of  black  fish  (a  smaller  kind  of  whale,)  have  made 
their  appearance,  sometimes  coming  close  up  to  the  ship, 
and  amusing  us  with  their  gambols.  On  Saturday  last, 
towards  evening,  a  large  school  of  them  was  announced 
coming  in  the  direction  of  the  ship.  Three  boats  were 
lowered,  and  after  a  long  chase,  one  of  them  was  struck. 
The  "fast  boat"  was  whirled  round  and  round,  but 
exhausted  by  repeated  strokes  of  the  lance  the  black  fish 
"  turned  up"  and  was  towed  to  the  ship,  accompanied  by 
all  his  companions  spouting  and  foaming  around  the 
boats  like  attendant  tritons.  So  affectionate  are  these 
poor  fish,  that  when  one  of  their  number  is  struck  by  the 
whaler,  the  school  continues  around  the  sufferer,  appear- 
ing to  sympathize  with  him  in  his  agonies.  Even  when 
dead,  they  do  not  desert  him,  and  it  was  not  until  a  long 
time  after  the  victim  had  been  hoisted  upon  deck,  far 
from  their  sight,  that  they  abandoned  him. 

The  captive  was  of  unusual  size,  measuring  twenty  one 
feet,  one  inch  in  length.  The  head  of  the  blackfish  is  large 
and  clumsy  like  that  of  the  sperm  whale.  His  dorsal  fin 
is  very  large,  and  his  side  fins  are  long.  His  spiracle  is 
situated  very  nearly  over  the  eye,  throwing  out  a  large 


156  CRUISE    IN    THE    PACIFIC. 

white  perpendicular  jet.  The  black  fish  in  common  with 
the  sperm  whale,  feeds  upon  "  squid,"  a  specimen  of  which, 
nearly  entire,  was  found  in  the  maw  of  the  captive.  The 
squid  (sepia  octopus,)  is  a  singular  animal.  His  body  is 
nearly  cylindrical,  terminating  in  a  broad  tail  which  can 
be  expanded  or  folded  up  around  the  smaller  part  of  his 
body.  His  beak,  which  is  shaped  like  that  of  a  parrot,  is 
set  abruptly  upon  the  body,  and  from  every  side  of  it  are 
sent  out  numerous  arms,  which  grasp  his  food  and  bring 
it  to  his  mouth.  The  entire  animal  consists  of  a  flabby 
mass  of  a  white  color,  not  unlike  very  stiff  blanc  mange, 
and  by  the  natives  of  many  of  the  Pacific  Islands  is 
regarded  as  a  great  delicacy.  The  length  of  this  spe- 
cimen was  about  three  feet  including  the  extended 
brachia. 

Tuesday,  March  10.  During  the  last  night,  we 
crossed  the  Equator  for  the  second  time  since  leaving 
the  United  States.  Soon  after  breakfast,  this  morn- 
ing, a  large  school  of  sperm  whales  was  seen  from 
masthead,  and  all  the  boats  darted  off  in  pursuit  of 
them.  In  calm,  still  weather,  such  as  was  the  case 
at  this  time,  the  utmost  caution  is  requisite  in  approach- 
ing a  school  of  whales,  as  any  noise  or  unusual  agita- 
tion in  the  water  is  perceived  by  them  at  a  great 
distance.  After  the  boats  have  been  propelled  with 
oars  for  a  suitable  distance,  the  oars  are  drawn  in,  and 
the  paddles  are  resorted  to,  by  which  they  are  slowly 
and  carefully  moved  along,  or  whenever  it  is  possible, 
by  the  sail,  which  wafts  them  gently  among  the  school 
without  alarming  them. 

The  adventure  was  successful,  and  the  captive  was 
hauled  alongside  amid  shouts  of  applause,  and  the 
process  of  "  cutting  in "  was  immediately  commenced. 
The  blubber  had  just  been  taken  aboard,  when  "  there 


SCHOOLS    OF    SPERM    WHALES.  157 

she  blows,"  resounded  throughout  the  ship,  and  the  boats 
were  again  lowered,  and  put  off  for  the  attack  of  a  large 
school  of  sperm  whales,  about  four  miles  off,  that  were 
"breeching"  and  "turning  flukes" in  the  most  phantastic 
manner.  After  a  most  cautious  approach,  and  much 
maneuvreing,  one  of  the  number  was  .struck.  The 
whole  school  was  instantly  seized  with  panic,  and  with 
such  of  us  as  recollected  the  fate  of  the  Essex,  the  alarm 
was  by  no  means  inconsiderable,  as  we  saw  this  immense 
throng  of  monsters,  over  a  hundred  in  number,  come 
rushing  in  the  direction  of  the  ship,  like  some  impetuous 
torrent,  foaming  and  tearing  along,  and  blowing  the  spray 
high  into  the  air.  When  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
ship,  as  the  ship-keeper  was  about  to  tack  ship  to  avert 
their  onset,  they  altered  their  course,  and  shot  across  our 
bow  with  a  loud  noise  like  the  distant  roar  of  the  surf. 

There  are  such  numbers  of  whale  ships  scattered  all 
over  the  ocean,  it  is  not  wonderful  that  whales  have 
become  shy.  We  keep  four  men  at  mast-head  on  the 
lookout,  during  the  day  time,  so  that  a  whale  cannot 
come  up  to  blow  within  the  limits  of  our  horizon  with- 
out being  discovered  and  pursued,  if  of  a  valuable  spe- 
cies. Fin  back  whales  display  themselves  in  the  most 
insolent  manner  every  day  close  by  us,  and  are  very 
lawless  in  their  movements,  a  well  known  characteristic 
of  worthless  characters. 

Friday,  March  13.  A  large  sperm  whale  was  cap- 
tured this  morning  before  breakfast.  The  sperm  whales 
in  this  region  are  remarkable  for  "  breeching,"  or  show- 
ing themselves  out  of  water ;  their  huge  bodies  falling 
into  the  sea  again,  dash  the  spray  to  the  height  of  thirty 
or  forty  feet,  looking  at  a  distance  like  some  sudden 
convulsion  of  the  ocean,  while  "there  she  bre-e-ches,"  is 
sounded  from  the  lookouts  aloft — re-echoed  from  deck — 

14 


158  CRUISE    IN    THE    PACIPTC. 

"square  the  yards  !"  shouts  the  captain,  and  we  are  bear- 
ing down  upon  our  game,  who  little  think  that  their 
merry  gambols  provoke  the  attack  of  their  destroyer. 
Though  the  organ  of  hearing  in  the  sperm  whale,  is  so 
small,  yet  their  sense  of  hearing  is  acute.  When  a  large 
school  are  feeding,  they  remain  for  some  time  upon  the 
surface  of  the  sea  spouting  frequently,  and  "  breeching," 
or  "  fan-tailing,"  i.  e.  displaying  their  flukes  in  the  air. 
With  all  the  noise  and  commotion  of  the  water  caused 
by  their  boisterous  sport,  they  are  not  alarmed,  but 
continue  near  the  same  place,  descending  at  their  leisure, 
one  after  another,  with  their  flukes  thrown  high  into  the 
air,  and  rising  again  to  recover  breath.  Let  one  of  the 
school  become  alarmed  at  the  approach  of  danger,  and 
with  a  flourish  of  his  flukes,  well  understood,  the  alarm 
is  instantly  communicated  to  the  others,  though  scattered 
for  several  miles  over  the  ocean,  and  they  betake  them- 
selves to  precipitate  flight.  In  rough  weather,  whales 
are  much  more  accessible,  as  the  tumult  of  the  waves 
deadens  the  sound  of  the  oars  as  thpy  strike  the  water. 

It  happens,  not  unfrequently,  that  whales,  though 
mortally  wounded,  make  their  escape  and  are  afterwards 
fallen  in  with  at  sea  by  some  other  ship.  To  prevent 
any  broils,  the  consequences  of  which  would  be  terrible, 
as  might  be  supposed  from  the  formidable  equipment  of 
the  conflicting  parties,  the  laws  of  whaling  are  very 
definite  and  well  understood.  In  cases  like  the  one  I 
have  mentioned,  the  whale  becomes  the  property  of  the 
captor,  provided  there  is  no  harpoon  or  lance  sticking  in 
the  carcase,  bearing  the  mark  of  the  ship  by  which  he 
was  killed.  The  law  of  whaling  decides  that  "craft 
claims  the  whale,"  that  is,  the  whale  belongs  to  those 
who  killed  him,  if  they  present  themselves  and  lay  claim 
to  him  in  consequence  of  the  harpoon  or  lance  found 


LAWS    OP    WHALING.  159 

sticking  in  the  carcase.  If  however,  the  captor  succeeds 
in  "  cutting  in  "  the  whale  before  the  other  ship  proves 
her  claim,  he  is  entitled  to  all  the  blubber  aboard  his 
ship.  Should  the  other  ship  arrive  during  the  progress 
of  this  operation,  and  prove  her  claim,  she  would  be  per- 
mitted to  take  all  below  the  "  planksheer,"  or  the  level 
of  the  deck. 

Tuesday,  March  24.  We  have  taken  several  fine 
turtles  within  a  few  days,  weighing  from  fifty  to  eighty 
pounds  each,  which  made  a  very  pleasant  interlude  in 
our  accustomed  fare.  These  turtles  exhibited  a  most 
remarkable  tenacity  of  life.  Some  time  after  their  heads 
had  been  separated  from  their  bodies,  as  the  cook  pro- 
ceeded to  cut  them  up,  it  was  a  very  painful  sight  to 
witness  their  contortions  of  agony ;  and  their  heads,  as 
they  lay  upon  deck,  for  more  than  half  an  hour  after 
being  severed  from  their  bodies,  laid  hold  of  whatever 
touched  them,  with  convulsive  energy,  while  their  eyes 
glared  wildly  every  few  minutes.  I  was  told  by  one 
of  the  crew,  that  these  heads  would  live  nine  days,  an 
observation  as  veracious  probably  as  the  fabled  vitality 
of  the  cat,  with  her  nine  lives. 

We  are  now  cruising  in  Panama  bay,  in  latitude  3° 
north,  and  with  a  broiling  sun  over  our  heads,  and 
scarcely  a  breath  of  wind  to  mitigate  the  intensity  of  his 
rays,  our  situation  is  almost  intolerable.  At  night,  the 
phosphorescence  of  the  sea  is  magnificent ;  every  dash 
of  the  sea  throws  out  myriads  of  brilliant  spangles,  and 
the  fish  darting  by,  leave  a  long  line  of  fire  after  them. 
This  evening,  in  drawing  up  a  large  rope  attached  to  a 
shark  hook,  with  which  I  had  been  amusing  myself 
during  the  day,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  the  phos- 
phorescence of  the  rope ;  which  looked  like  a  robe  of 
glittering  spangles.     After  repeated  experiments,  I  found 


160  CRUISE    IN    THE    PACIFIC. 

that  the  intensity  of  the  light  was  greatly  increased  by 
the  friction  of  my  hand,  and  when  it  gradually  waned 
so  as  to  be  almost  imperceptible,  by  the  same  means,  the 
light  was  renewed.  If  these  phosphorescent  points  of 
light  emanate  from  animalculse — the  prevalent  opinion 
among  naturalists — the  variations  of  the  light  in  intensity 
seems  to  imply  that  when  these  animalculae  are  quies- 
cent, the  light  they  emit  is  faint,  but  when  they  are 
roused  by  anything  which  agitates  them,  they  exhibit 
those  brilliant  phosphorescent  spangles  that  gem  the 
dark  wave  at  night. 

Thursday,  March  26.  This  afternoon,  a  large  school 
of  black  fish  made  their  appearance  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  the  ship.  Some  of  them  were  not  much  larger 
than  porpoises,  and  the  school  probably  numbered  over 
a  thousand.  Longitude  83°  55'.  We  are  now  steering  for 
Tacames,,  a  small  town  upon  the  coast  of  Colombia,  not 
far  from  the  equator. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

VISIT  TO  TACAMES 


Situation  of  Tacames — Interesting  appearance  of  the  vege- 
table kingdom — Tropical  fruits — Landing  in  the  surf — 
Density  of  the  forests — An  incident — Phosphorescence  of 
fish  after  death — carousals  on  shore. 


Sunday,  March  29.  About  four  bells,  (10  o'clock) 
this  morning,  "  Land  ho  !"  was  proclaimed  from  aloft, 
and  by  the  latter  part  of  the  afternoon,  we  lay  at  anchor 
off  Tacames,  a  small  town  on  the  north-western  coast  of 
South  America,  latitude  0°  58'  north,  longitude  79°  23/ 
west,  in  an  open  roadstead,  about  three  miles  from  shore. 
This  is  the  first  time  we  have  anchored  since  leaving 
America,  a  period  of  more  than  five  months ;  and  the 
prospect  of  setting  foot  once  more  upon  terra  firma,  was 
to  all  of  us  very  pleasant.  We  landed  this  afternoon  at 
the  mouth  of  a  small  river  about  two  miles  from  Ta- 
cames, where  were  two  or  three  houses  in  an  opening  be- 
tween the  high  clayey  hills  which  bound  the  coast.  Cap- 
tain R.,  is  well  acquainted  with  the  Spanish  language  of 
the  coast,  which  was  acquired  during  his  captivity 
among  the  Spaniards,  by  whom  he  was  taken  prisoner 
several  years  ago,  while  at  the  island  of  St.  Marys,  near 
the  coast  of  Chili,  at  the  time  of  the  revolutionary  move- 
ments in  the  western  provinces  of  South  America.    Ail 

14t* 


162  VISIT     TO     TACAMES. 

the  ship's  company  were  compelled  to  bear  arms  in  the 
ranks  of  one  of  the  parties  contending  for  the  sovereignty 
of  the  country,  but  after  a  long  servitude,  he  made  his 
escape  with  his  comrades  in  an  open  boat,  and  after 
encountering  many  dangers  and  sufferings,  arrived  at 
Valparaiso,  where  he  easily  obtained  passage  homeward. 
The  houses  of  the  inhabitants  are  all  constructed  after 
the  same  plan.  They  are  elevated  upon  posts  about 
eight  feet  from  the  ground,  which  renders  them  cool  and 
airy,  and  protects  the  occupants  from  the  sand  flies.  A 
species  of  large  reed,  is  the  universal  building  material, 
while  the  roof  thatched  with  forest  leaves,  is  the  most 
complicated  part  of  the  architecture. 

I  could  not  but  admire  the  exuberant  growth  of  every 
thing  belonging  to  the  vegetable  kingdom.  The  most 
delicious  pine  apples  spread  out  before  us,  while  the 
cocoanut  tree,  the  plantain  and  the  banana  waved  their 
broad  leaves  gracefully  in  the  breeze.  Here  were  oran- 
ges, limes  and  other  fruits  lying  scattered  around  in 
neglected  profusion.  The  fig  tree  had  also  begun  to  put 
forth,  and  the  indigo  plant  grew  spontaneously  like  the 
most  common  weed.  After  obtaining  the  information 
we  desired,  with  regard  to  a  suitable  place  to  procure 
water,  we  launched  our  boat  through  the  surf  and  were 
soon  aboard  the  ship. 

Friday.  April  4.  We  are  again  under  way,  and 
while  the  ship  is  dashing  on  over  the  billows,  I  hasten  to 
give  a  sketch  of  what  took  place  while  we  lay  at  anchor 
off  Tacames. 

On  Monday  morning,  two  boats  were  despatched  with 
a  raft  of  casks,  to  be  filled  with  water  in  the  creek,  about 
a  mile  from  shore.  Large  casks,  holding  from  five  to 
seven  barrels,  are  selected  for  such  purposes,  and  are 


AN     INCIDENT.  163 

thrown  overboard  with  a  rope  upon  each  side  passing 
through  a  couple  of  "  beckets  "  or  loups  confined  by  the 
hoops  of  the  casks. 

Having  arranged  our  raft,  with  two  boats  ahead,  we 
passed  safely  through  the  surf,  and  made  our  way  up 
the  creek,  inhaling  the  delightful  fragrance  that  arose 
from  the  woods.  The  trees  along  the  margin  of  the 
creek  sent  their  long,  slender  branches  into  the  earth 
again,  forming  a  thicket  so  dense,  that  hardly  anything 
but  the  scarlet  land  crab,  of  which  we  saw  great  num- 
bers, could  traverse  it  at  all.  We  proceeded  on,  until 
we  were  obliged  to  stop  where  the  river  was  too  shallow 
to  float  the  boats,  and  then  commenced  filling  our  casks, 
while  I  went  into  a  house  near  at  hand,  to  make  a  call 
upon  some  Spanish  ladies  who  came  down  to  the  bank 
of  the  stream  to  welcome  us.  Each  of  them  was  decked 
off  with  all  the  finery  she  could  display,  and  held  a  cigar 
in  her  pretty  mouth,  from  which  wreaths  of  smoke  were 
sent  forth,  with  all  the  grace  of  the  most  fastidious 
proficient. 

My  visit  was  conducted  almost  entirely  in  pantomime, 
as  I  was  unacquainted  with  their  language,  and  it  was 
very  short,  (which  is  not  always  the  case  with  those  that 
have  but  little  to  say,)  and  I  started  in  pursuit  of  game, 
but  found  it  impossible  to  proceed  in  any  direction, 
owing  to  the  dense  thickets  that  opposed  my  progress. 
Becoming  weary  of  fishing,  to  which  I  had  recourse  for 
amusement,!  endeavored  to  make  my  way  along  the 
creek  down  to  the  sea  shore,  where  I  might  exercise  my 
skill  at  pleasure  upon  the  pelicans  that  were  assembled 
in  great  numbers  upon  the  beach,  picking  up  whatever 
might  be  thrown  up  by  the  sea.  After  advancing  a  few 
yards  amid  numberless  difficulties,  I  was  brought  to  a 
stand,  finding  it  impossible  to  proceed  forward  and  nearly 


164  VISIT     TO     T  AC  AMES. 

so  to  return  ;  besides,  I  did  not  much  fancy  penetrating 
into  these  thickets  which  are  infested  with  serpents  of 
the  most  venomous  character,  as  well  as  with  scorpions 
and  centipedes  of  every  variety.  While  waiting  upon  the 
bank  at  a  loss  what  to  do,  a  boy  came  paddling  along  in 
a  little  nutshell  of  a  canoe,  seated  very  composedly  in 
the  stern  of  his  craft.  With  the  assistance  of  a  real  (12£ 
cts.,)  he  comprehended  my  desire  of  going  down  to  the 
beach,  and  ranged  his  canoe  alongside  the  bank,  for  me 
to  embark.  The  moment  I  put  my  foot  into  the  canoe, 
she  filled  with  water  and  turned  me  into  the  stream  over 
my  head.  Weighed  down  by  several  pounds  of  shot,  and 
having  a  gun  in  my  hand,  I  found  myself  paddling 
about  at  a  very  great  disadvantage,  especially  as  the 
current  was  setting  me  down  towards  the  beach  in  a  style 
I  had  not  anticipated.  Finding  it  impossible  to  do  any- 
thing while  thus  encumbered,  I  was  forced  to  drop  my 
gun,  and  then  without  much  difficulty  I  regained  the 
bank,  where  I  stood  reflecting  upon  the  awkwardness  of 
the  disaster,  of  which  the  fair  ladies  I  had  been  visiting 
were  admiring  spectators,  a  doubly  aggravating  circum- 
stance, for  one  would  deprecate  appearing  before  the 
ladies  in  such  a  predicament,  unless  in  their  behalf. 

Several  of  the  crew  perceiving  my  misfortune,  has- 
tened to  my  assistance  and  immediately  plunged  in  after 
the  gun,  which  was  brought  up  after  much  exertion, 
notwithstanding  the  disinterested  advice  of  a  Spaniard, 
who  stood  looking  on,  not  to  attempt  its  recovery. 
With  the  agreeable  reflection  that  the  boats  could  not 
start  for  the  ship  in  less  than  an  hour  and  a  half,  I 
adjourned  to  a  neighboring  house — not  the  one  I  visited 
before — for  my  appearance  was  altogether  too  heroi- 
comical  for  that. 

We  passed  down  the  river  in  fine  style,  with  three 


AN     INCIDENT.  165 

boats  followed  by  a  long  line  of  casks,  making  the  dark 
woods  echo  upon  every  side  with  our  songs. 

Towards  evening,  by  invitation,  I  accompanied  Capt. 
R.,  in  a  hunting  excursion  up  the  creek  we  had  ascend- 
ed during  the  morning.  On  our  way  we  shot  several 
pelicans,  great  numbers  of  which  frequented  this  place, 
assembling  in  flocks  upon  inaccessible  trees,  or  stretch- 
ing along  the  beach  in  pursuit  of  their  prey.  Upon 
our  return  to  the  ship,  during  the  night,  happening  to 
awake  from  sleep,  I  was  startled  by  the  appearance  of 
two  balls  of  fire,  like  the  eyes  of  some  malignant  being 
glaring  horridly  upon  me  in  the  darkness.  With  all  my 
philosophic  disbelief  in  supernatural  appearances,  super- 
stitious feelings  were  rapidly  gaining  the  supremacy, 
when  it  occurred  to  my  mind  that  this  apparition  was 
nothing  more  than  the  phosphorescence  emitted  by  a  fish 
I  had  hung  up  in  the  state  room  during  the  evening,  on 
the  body  of  which  two  spots  were  glowing  with  peculiar 
brightness. 

It  is  customary  whenever  a  whale  ship  goes  into 
port  to  recruit,  to  allow  the  crew  to  go  ashore  by- 
watches  alternately,  and  ramble  around  for  the  benefit 
of  their  health.  On  Tuesday  morning  therefore,  per- 
mission was  given  to  the  starboard  watch  to  go  ashore, 
"  on  liberty,"  as  this  privilege  is  termed.  An  overhaul- 
ing of  "  shore  clothes,"  from  the  bottoms  of  chests  suc- 
ceeded, and  in  a  few  minutes — for  Jack's  toilet  is  soon 
made — the  second  mate  left  the  ship,  with  his  entire 
watch  to  have  a  holiday  on  terra  firma.  The  latter 
part  of  the  forenoon,  Capt.  R.,  and  myself  landed  at 
Tacames,  which  is  situated  upon  a  river,  at  the  mouth 
of  which,  the  surf  breaks  in  all  its  fury  over  a  long 
sand  beach.  No  one  can  have  an  adequate  idea  of 
the  difficulty  of  landing  in  the  surf,  unless  he  has  derived 


166  VISIT     TO     T  AC  AMES. 

it  from  experience.  As  the  mighty  waters  of  the  ocean 
come  bounding  along,  they  acquire  a  tremendous  mo- 
mentum, and  burst  upon  the  shore  with  a  violence  that 
makes  the  earth  tremble  with  the  shock.  The  whale 
boat  from  its  shape  and  the  security  of  its  steering  oar,  is 
better  adapted  for  ensuring  safety  in  the  surf,  than  the 
common  class  of  ship's  boats.  When  among  the  break- 
ers, upon  looking  behind,  you  see  the  swollen  waters 
gathering  in  dread  array,  and  with  increasing  velocity 
sweeping  in  a  mighty  mass,  presaging  destruction  to 
every  opposing  obstacle.  The  angry  wave  curls  above 
the  stern,  and  bursting,  is  divided  upon  each  side  of  the 
boat,  which  is  hurried  forward  with  the  speed  of  the 
wind  at  each  impulse  of  its  wrathful  pursuer. 

Upon  arriving  at  the  village,  we  found  that  the 
Alcalde,  or  head  man,  had  gone  off  to  the  ship,  and  we 
hastened  to  return  therefore,  as  soon  as  possible.  Here 
we  met  the  Alcalde,  and  an  Englishman,  who  accompa- 
nied him,  to  assist  in  making  a  bargain  with  the  Cap- 
tain for  goods  of  various  kinds.*  This  Englishman 
had  led  a  life  full  of  adventures.  He  ran  away 
from  an  English  ship  to  which  he  belonged,  and  lived 
for  a  while  among  the  natives  of  the  Navigator  Is- 
lands, by  whom  he  was  regarded  as  a  great  warrior, 
and  acquired  such  an  influence  over  them,  that  he 
persuaded  them  to  abandon  many  of  their  barbarous 
customs  and  adopt  some  of  the  arts  of  civilized  life.  I 
saw  his  wife  at  Tacames,  a  very  pretty  English  woman, 
but  with  the  seal  of  death  impressed  upon  her  feeble  form. 

Towards  sunset,  the  Alcalde  and  the  Englishman 
started  for  the  shore  in  one  of  our  boats.     When  we  got 

*  Masters  of  whale  ships  usually  carry  out  a  quantity  of  merchandize,  and 
many  of  them  realize  a  very  handsome  profit  upon  their  dry  goods  and 
nicknacks. 


CAROUSALS     ON     SHORE.  167 

into  the  surf,  through  negligence  the  stern  of  the  boat 
was  not  pointed  towards  the  breakers — a  heavy  roller 
came  bounding  after  us — it  was  too  late  to  avert  its 
attack,  and  we  were  whirled  around  broadside  to  the 
combing  wave,  and  were  immediately  full  of  water.  At 
that  moment  the  men  jumped  out,  and  hurried  the  boat 
upon  the  beach  before  another  roller  had  time  to  over- 
take us.  The  goods  purchased  by  the  Alcalde  were  now 
displayed  well  saturated  with  salt  water,  amid  his 
varied  exclamations  and  execrations  in  Spanish,  the 
peculiar  force  of  which  we  were  utterly  unable  to 
appreciate,  and  received  with  a  becoming  nonchalance. 

We  now  directed  our  steps  towards  the  village,  in 
search  for  the  starboard  watch,  whose  loud  shouts  and 
songs  indicated  very  readily  where  they  were.  The 
condition  in  which  we  found  most  of  them,  I  shall  pass 
over  in  silence,  as  a  scene  I  would  gladly  forget.  In 
a  short  time  we  returned  to  our  boat  to  make  the 
attempt  of  going  off  to  the  ship  ;  but  the  tide  was  too  low 
for  the  boat  to  float  in  the  river,  and  the  surf  combed 
fearfully  upon  the  beach  not  far  from  us.  Deeming  the 
attempt  too  hazardous,  we  concluded  to  wait  until  day- 
light, and  returned  to  the  village  to  spend  the  night  as 
well  as  we  could.  As  we  moved  forward,  we  were 
attracted  by  a  light  under  one  of  the  houses,  and  upon 
coming  up  to  it,  I  found  it  to  be  a  house  Captain  R.  and 
myself  had  visited  during  the  forenoon  at  the  request  of 
the  owner,  to  prescribe  for  his  mother  and  sister  that 
were  laboring  under  an  attack  of  the  fever  and  ague. 
Every  where  we  went,  I  was  introduced  as  the  "  Phy- 
sico,"  or  physician  of  the  ship,  a  title  more  agreeable 
to  the  comprehensions  of  the  inhabitants  than  that 
of  "passenger,"  and  I  had  no  objection  to  bearing 
it  pro   tern,  although   my  claims   to   it  were   slender. 


168  VISIT     TO     TACAMES. 

Upon  going  up  to  the  house,  we  found  the  Spaniard 
feeding  his  donkey,  attended  by  his  dutiful  wife  who 
held  the  torch  made  of  brown  paper  fed  with  spirits  of 
turpentine. 

They  requested   us   to  walk   up  stairs   and   see  the 
invalids,  and  we  were  ushered  into  the  bed  room  of  the 
ladies,  where  my  comrades  seated  themselves  with  as 
much  independence  and  gravity,  as  if  we  constituted  a 
council  of  physicians.     I  gave  the  invalids  each  some 
medicine,  brought  off  from  the  ship  which  was  taken 
with  many  wry  faces  accompanied  with  "  mucho  malo," 
and   other  exclamations.     After  leaving  some   quinine 
with  them  to  be  taken  at  regular  intervals,  we  adjourned, 
much  to  the  relief  of  the  ladies,  into  the  adjoining  room, 
where  some  arrangements  had  been  made  for  our  accom- 
modations during  the  night.     My  bed  was  the  soft  side 
of  a  bench  which  extended  around  the  room  next  to  the 
wall  of  the  building,  with  a  canopy  of  calico  over  me  to 
keep  off  the  musquitoes.     All  their  beds  are  furnished 
with   these   appendages,    without   which,  it   would   be 
impossible  to  sleep,  on  account  of  the  number  and  viru- 
lence of  these  venomous  insects.     The  third  mate  slept 
in  the  hammock,  a  universal  article  of  furniture  in  every 
house,  consisting:  of  a  broad  net  work  of  reeds  gathered 
together  at  the  two  ends  by  cords  with  which  it  is  sus- 
pended to  rafters  overhead.     In  this,  the  Spanish  ladies 
are  to  be  seen  lolling  for  the  greater  part  of  the  time, 
vibrating  backwards  and  forwards.    Thus  we  passed  the 
night,  roused  from  our  slumbers  every  few  minutes  by 
the  sting  of  musquitoes,  the  howling  of  dogs,  and  the 
braying  of  the  donkey  underneath  us  in  reply  to  the  sal- 
utations of  other  donkeys.     Qualis  strepitus  !    A  combi- 
nation of  a  squeal,  a  yell,  and  a  grunt,  thrown  together 
in  one  inharmonious  concert. 


up 


THE     ALCALDE.  169 

At  the  first  appearance  of  daylight,  we  were  on  the 
move,  and  after  hunting  up  the  boat's  crew,  we  hurried 
down  to  the  beach,  stopping  frequently  to  listen  to  the 
savage  cries  of  the  wild  beasts  in  the  dense  woods  upon 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  The  equatorial  regions 
of  South  America  are  infested  with  many  varieties  of 
beasts  of  prey,  the  most  terrible  of  which  is  a  species  of 
panther,  called  the  "South  American  Lion,"  found 
in  great  abundance  in  this  neighborhood.  We  launch- 
ed our  boat  into  the  surf  after  dragging  her  for  thirty  or 
forty  yards  over  the  sand  beach,  and  were  soon  along- 
side the  ship. 

A  few  hours  afterwards,  I  went  ashore  with  the  lar- 
board watch  to  spend  the  day.  Upon  arriving  at  the 
village  we  met  the  Alcalde,  who  invited  me  to  visit  his 
"plantation,"  a  mile  or  more  from  the  landing  place. 
We  wound  our  way  through  a  thick  wood,  perfumed 
with  flowering  shrubs  and  trees,  and  thronged  with 
lizards,  halting  every  few  minutes  for  the  eloquence  of 
the  Alcalde  to  expend  itself  in  vain  attempts  to  induce 
me  to  sell  a  pair  of  pantaloons  that  graced  my  person,  the 
acquisition  of  which  he  had  taken  very  much  at  heart 
and  had  lavished  an  abundance  of  oratory  upon  me  with 
no  better  effect,  on  the  preceding  day.  The  boasted 
"  plantation"  consisted  of  three  or  four  acres  of  land,  part 
of  which  was  under  cultivation.  On  one  side,  a  small 
field  of  corn  was  pointed  out  to  us,  with  great  self  com- 
placency by  his  Honor,  expecting  Yankees  who  had 
seen  cornfields  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
to  burst  into  ecstacies  at  this  exhibition  of  his  agricultu- 
ral enterprise.  Near  the  house  was  a  sweet  potato 
patch,  where  sat  a  man,  a  la  Turc,  among  the  vines 
digging  with  a  stick  the  potatoes  engaged  for  the  ship. 

Upon  entering  the  house  we  were  well  received  by 

15 


170  VISIT    TO    TACAMES. 

the  sister  of  the  Alcalde  and  a  fair  eyed  girl  related  to 
them.  Both  of  these  were  invalids ;  the  former  was 
in  the  last  stages  of  the  pulmonary  consumption,  a 
disease  which  I  thought  confined  to  our  own  capri- 
cious and  inhospitable  clime.  With  an  "adios," 
(adieu,)  we  returned  to  Tacames,  where  in  company 
with  one  of  the  boatsteerers,  I  took  a  particular  survey 
of  the  settlement.  Every  house  that  had  an  invit- 
ing appearance  we  entered,  and  made  a  short  call  upon 
its  inmates,  when  we  were  always  well  received.  My 
character  of  "Physico,"  brought  me  a  constant  prac- 
tice whenever  I  went  ashore.  Every  fair  one  ima- 
gined herself  sick,  and  presented  her  arm  tor  me  to  exa- 
mine her  pulse.  The  females  all  have  beautiful  arms  and 
hands  ;  the  occasion  too,  was  very  favorable  for  exhibit- 
ing them.  In  these  cases,  looking  very  profound,  if  they 
seemed  well  enough,  I  answered  confidently,  "  no  infirmo 
Signora."  If  however,  the  patient  was  really  unwell,  my 
answer  was  given  in  an  encouraging  tone  "  poco  infirmo," 
(slightly  sick,)  as  if  there  was  nothing  to  fear.  My 
assurances  were  received  with  implicit  confidence 
apparently,  which  doubtless  was  of  no  disadvantage  to 
them.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  in  proportion  to  the 
beauty  of  the  fair  applicant,  a  longer  time  was  required 
to  count  the  pulsations  of  her  arm;  an  opinion  was 
pronounced  upon  the  old  and  ugly  almost  at  sight.  The 
ladies  were  many  of  them  very  pretty,  with  an  inimitable 
grace  of  movement ;  and  I  could  easily  imagine,  that  the 
soft  intonations  of  that  noble  language  to  one  acquainted 
with  it,  seconded  by  a  glance  from  their  dark  flashing 
eye,  must  prove  irresistable. 

In  our  rambles  we  visited  the  chapel,  an  oblong  build- 
ing standing  in  an  open  space.  The  thatched  roof  is 
composed  of  two  parts,  as  if,  after  its  construction,  it  had 


THE     CHAPEL.  171 

been  divided  longitudinally,  upon  each  side  of  the  ridge, 
and  the  upper  part  elevated  two  or  three  feet  above  the 
lower,  an  arrangement  admirably  adapted  for  coolness. 
A  matting  of  reeds  covered  the  ground,  and  at  the  fur- 
ther end  was  the  altar,  upon  the  top  of  which  was  a 
representation  of  the  Saviour  on  the  cross.  Down  the 
sides  of  the  altar,  the  drippings  of  sperm  candles  used  in 
the  service,  had  run  like  the  stalactites  of  some  subterra- 
nean cavern.  Adjoining  the  altar  was  the  vestry  room, 
in  which  were  stiff  looking  images  intended  no  doubt,  to 
play  pantomime  on  great  occasions.  One  or  two  rickety 
benches  were  all  the  seats  provided  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  audience. 

We  took  dinner  at  the  house  where  1  had  spent  the 
night.  A  soup  was  made  for  us  out  of  an  antiquated 
fowl,  which  some  supposed  might  have  belonged  to  the 
original  stock  introduced  by  Pizarro.  The  soup  was, 
however,  very  well,  and  with  a  due  mixture  of  green 
corn,  sweet  potatoes,  and  cassada,  besides  several 
unknown  accompaniments,  there  was  sufficient  for 
six  or  eight  of  us.  We  were  charged  about  two  dollars, 
partly  for  our  dinner,  and  partly  for  the  privilege  we 
assumed  of  laughing  at  our  hosts  and  rallying  them  upon 
the  origin  of  the  "  pauvre  galina." 

Towards  sunset,  the  third  mate  and  I,  accompanied  by 
three  of  the  crew,  launched  the  bow  boat  into  the  surf, 
and  some  way  or  other  we  passed  safely  through  the 
combing  breakers,  which  was  more  than  we  expected,  as 
one  of  the  men  was  drunk  and  refused  to  pull,  and 
another  one  was  so  far  under  the  influence  of  "  aquar- 
dente,"  as  not  to  know  which  end  of  the  boat  to  face.  It 
was  a  wonder  we  were  not  "swamped,"  and  every  one 
lost.     We  had  but  just  emerged  from  the  breakers  when 


172  VISIT     TO    TACAMES. 

the  man  who  had  refused  to  pull,  suddenly  "  peaked"  his 
oar,  and  plunging  into  the  sea,  endeavored  to  reach  the 
shore,  while  we  continued  to  pull  ahead  until  we  were 
out  of  the  reach  of  danger,  when  we  lay  to,  watching  his 
movements.  Although  a  powerful  swimmer,  he  still 
continued  where  we  left  him,  struggling  in  vain  among 
the  waves,  for  the  "  undertow"  or  reaction  of  a  heavy 
surf  always  throws  the  swimmer  farther  and  farther  from 
the  shore,  unless  he  has  been  taughfby  experience  how 
to  manage.  The  fate  of  the  man  appeared  to  be  inevita- 
ble, as  he  was  almost  exhausted  by  vain  efforts  to  reach 
the  shore,  when  the  question  was  debated  whether  we 
should  turn  about  and  endeavor  to  save  the  sufferer  at 
the  risk  of  our  own  lives,  or  abandon  him  to  his  awful 
fate.  One  of  the  men  proposed  to  let  him  go,  but  the 
mate  declared  that  he  could  never  see  a  man  drown 
before  his  eyes  without  an  effort  to  save  him ;  and  with 
a  vigorous  stroke  of  the  steering  oar,  the  boat  was  in  an 
instant  pointing  towards  the  breakers,  and  at  the  immi- 
nent hazard  of  being  "  swamped,"  we  rescued  the  man. 
who  was  now  completely  exhausted.  We  had  but  just 
room  enough  to  turn  round  without  coming  within  the 
reach  of  the  breakers,  and  after  a  hard  pull,  we  reached 
the  ship,  where  1  met  a  padre,  or  priest  from  Tacames, 
no  ways  remarkable,  except  for  his  plump  cheeks,  and 
the  huge  masses  of  beef  he  devoured  at  supper. 

Thursday  was  devoted  to  the  reception  of  the  fruits 
and  vegetables  purchased  for  the  ship,  of  which  a  most 
abundant  supply  was  obtained.  When  the  bananas, 
plantains,  and  other  fruits  were  suspended  upon  deck  and 
from  aloft,  the  ship  looked  as  if  she  had  been  dressed  off 
with  evergreens  for  some  festive  occasion,  while  the  cabin 
and  state  rooms  were  full  of  the  finest  oranges,  limes,  pine- 


SUPPLY    OF    FRUITS.  173 

apples  and  cocoanuts,  according  to  the  testimony  of  the 
officers,  of  a  quality  superior  to  that  of  any  tropical  fruits 
they  had  ever  seen  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

The  plantain  is  very  similar  in  appearance  to  the 
banana,  which  I  have  described  in  another  place.  The 
fruit  when  ripe,  is  a  soft,  sweetish,  golden  colored  pulp, 
from  ten  to  twelve  inches  long,  with  a  slender  core  set 
thick  with  minute  purple  seeds.  The  pod  containing 
the  fruit  is  readily  stripped  off,  and  the  plantain  when 
sliced  and  fried,  is  one  of  the  most  delicious  esculents  I 
ever  tasted.  The  banana  in  taste,  reminds  me  of  the 
richest  orange  pears  we  have  at  home.  We  have  seve- 
ral enormous  bunches  on  board,  containing  from  two  to 
three  hundred  bananas  each,  for  which  we  paid  but 
twenty-five  cents. 

The  Cocoa-nut  tree  rears  a  tall,  slim,  branchless  trunk, 
rising  sometimes  to  the  height  of  thirty  or  forty  feet. 
From  the  top  of  it,  spring  forth  broad  filamentous  leaves 
of  a  dark  green  hue,  waving  gracefully  to  every  passing 
breeze,  among  which,  the  nuts,  often  numbering  twenty 
or  thirty,  encased  in  thick  husks,  adhere  closely  to  the 
trunk  of  the  tree.  The  cocoa-nuts  we  have  on  board 
contain  a  pint  or  two  of  a  delicious  beverage,  whose  re- 
freshing richness  is  unknown  to  us  at  home.  The  Pine 
Apple  grows  in  a  sandy  soil,  immediately  upon  the 
ground,  surrounded  by  a  circle  of  long  grassy  leaves, 
tipped  at  their  extremities  with  a  delicate  orange  red. 
The  specimens  of  this  fruit  on  board  are  very  large,  and 
extremely  delicious,  with  a  fibre  so  tender  as  to  admit  of 
their  being  eaten  with  a  spoon. 

We  also  procured  a  supply  of  limes  at  the  rate  of 
twelve  and  a  half  cents  per  hundred.  They  are  about 
twice  the  size  of  ordinary  limes  and  are  so  juicy  that  the 

15* 


174  VISIT     TO    TACAMES. 

juice  of  but  thirty-two  of  them,  expressed  without  much 
care,  filled  a  large  junk  bottle. 

We  left  our  anchorage  early  on  Friday  morning,  with 
a  strong  land  breeze ;  the  shores  of  South  America  ra- 
pidly faded  from  our  sight,  and  soon  we  were  out  to  sea, 
where  the  sky  and  the  blue  waters  meet  to  form  the  circle 
of  the  horizon. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

VOYAGE  TO  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

Approach    the   Gallapagos    Islands — Narrow    escape    from 
shipwreck — Steer  for  the   Society  Islands — Capture  of  a 

LARGE  WHALE — MOTHER    Cart's    CHICKENS — PEAKED-NOSE   SHARK 

: — Dangerous  situation  of  the  ship — Steer  for  the  Sandwich 
Islands— Trade  winds — Arrival  at  Oahu. 

Saturday ',  April  11.  Yesterday  afternoon,  Chatham 
Island,  the  most  easterly  of  the  Gallapagos  group,  began 
to  be  dimly  seen  above  the  western  horizon,  and  at  even- 
ing its  outlines  were  distinctly  marked  out  by  the  setting 
sun,  though  still  at  a  great  distance.  A  beautiful  even- 
ing succeeded,  and  the  still  breeze  that  fanned  us  along 
was  highly  refreshing  after  the  heat  of  the  day :  for  we 
were  but  a  few  miles  south  of  the  Equator.  With  the 
prospect  of  a  fine  day  on  the  morrow,  our  guns  and  fish- 
ing gear  were  made  ready  for  a  hunting  and  fishing  ex- 
cursion we  had  in  contemplation,  and  I  retired  to  my 
berth  full  of  the  anticipated  sport  of  the  coming  day. 

The  wind  continued  light,  and  we  moved  slowly  up 
towards  the  Island,  which  from  the  shadowy  appearance 
that  distant  land  always  presents,  gradually  assumed  a 
more  real  existence.  The  watches  took  care  of  the  ship 
alternately,  as  usual,  and  a  bright  look-out  was  kept  as 
we  approached  the  dark  mass  lying  directly  before  us. 
Before  midnight,  the  ship  was  heading  one  or  two  points 


176  TO     THE    SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

off  the  land,  but  as  she  still  neared  the  Island,  the  officer  of 
the  watch  came  down  a  little  before  three  o'clock,  to  re- 
ceive instructions  from  the  captain  with  regard  to  altering 
her  course.  I  happened  to  be  awake  at  the  time,  form- 
ing plans  for  our  excursion,  and  heard  the  officer  ascend 
the  companion  way  and  walk  forward  a  few  steps,  when 
we  were  all  thrown  into  alarm  by  the  noise  upon  deck 
and  the  loud  voice  of  the  officer,  "  Put  your  helm  hard 

down  !  down  with  it !  Capt.  Richards  !  Capt.  Rich " 

Before  the  words  were  out  of  his  mouth,  the  captain  and 
his  officers  bounded  upon  deck,  and  at  that  moment,  the 
ship,  with  a  tremendous  shock  that  shook  every  timber, 
and  reverberated  through  her  frame  with  a  heavy  hollow 
sound,  struck  upon  a  reef  of  rocks.  All  hands  hurried 
upon  deck,  some  with  low  exclamations,  and  a  few  with 
spare  articles  of  clothing  which  were  stowed  away  in  the 
boats. 

"  Let  go  your  halliards,  fore  and  aft,"  shouted  the 
captain.  A  shrill  creaking  of  sheaves,  as  the  ties,  run- 
ners and  halliards  ran  over  them,  was  heard  from  aloft, 
and  the  lofty  yards  settled  down  upon  their  lifts — the 
foresail  clewed  up,  and  the  gib  and  staysails  run  down. 
*  Tumble  aft — tumble  aft  there  some  of  you  and  lower 
down  the  starboard-quarter  boat."  The  boat  was  lower- 
ed, manned,  and  proceeded  to  sound  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  ship.  Close  under  the  lee  bow,  the  depth  of 
water  was  but  nine  feet,  and  a  little  ahead  twelve  feet, 
an  ill-omened  position  for  a  ship  drawing  eighteen  feet 
of  water.  The  fate  of  the  North  America  was  appa- 
rently sealed,  and  while  the  captain  and  officers  were 
awaiting  with  intense  anxiety  the  reports  of  the  sound- 
ing line,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  taking  a  more  deliberate 
survey  of  our  situation.  On  the  larboard  side,  the  high 
outlines  of  Chatham  Island  rose  up  gloomily  from  the 


ESCAPE     FROM     SHIPWRECK.  177 

sea,  not  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  off,  while  on  the 
starboard  side  was  a  small  rock,  about  a  ship's  length  off, 
forming  part  of  the  ledge  upon  which  the  ship  thumped 
heavily  every  few  minutes.  Upon  this  rock  several  seals 
were  collected  together,  whose  dismal  howls  rendered 
the  scene  the  more  terrible. 

Meanwhile  a  small  anchor  attached  to  the  "cutting 
falls"  had  been  carried  out  astern  and  dropped,  and  with 
all  hands  hold  of  the  line,  the  attempt  was  made  to  haul 
the  ship  off  the  ledge  stern-foremost,  but  in  vain,  and 
the  line  was  made  fast  to  prevent  the  ship  running 
upon  the  rocks  any  farther.  The  loss  of  the  ship 
seemed  inevitable — the  alternate  rise  and  fall  of  the 
swell  lifted  her  up  to  hurry  her  fate  as  she  fell  pow- 
erless with  a  hollow  groan  upon  the  grating  rocks  below. 
Small  casks  were  filled  with  water,  and  some  bread 
was  brought  from  the  steerage  to  be  put  into  the  boats 
upon  abandoning  the  wreck,  and  the  boats  also  were 
made  ready  for  instant  service.  To  improve  the  little 
time  that  might  elapse  before  the  ship  should  begin  to  go 
down,  I  descended  into  the  cabin,  and  with  a  sigh  over 
my  books  and  other  valuables,  proceeded  to  select  my 
most  durable  suit  of  clothes  and  put  them  on  as  well  as 
I  was  able,  while  each  shock  of  the  ship  almost  threw 
me  from  off  my  feet.  While  thus  employed,  Capt.  K. 
made  his  appearance,  exclaiming  in  a  sorrowful  tone, 
"  This  is  the  last  we  shall  see  of  the  North  America— 
we  shall  have  to  take  to  the  boats  before  long,  if  she  con- 
tinues to  thump  in  this  way."  This,  indeed,  was  the 
universal  opinion,  as  each  rude  shock  seemed  to  forbode 
the  certain  destruction  of  the  ship.  Most  providentially, 
the  wind  was  light,  and  the  swell  was  not  formidable  in 
the  narrow  channel  where  we  were  fixed  upon  the  rocks. 
On  our  starboard  bow  there  was  a  passage  into  deeper 


178  TO     THE     SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

water,  and  our  only  hope  for  the  preservation  of  the  ship, 
appeared  to  be,  in  carrying  one  of  onr  heavy  anchors  in 
this  direction — dropping  it — and  then  endeavoring  to 
warp  her  off  the  rocks. 

The  spare  topmasts  and  other  large  spars  were  cast 
loose  from  their  lashings,  and  a  raft  commenced  to 
transport  the  anchor  into  the  proper  place,  when  at  the 
moment  it  was  to  be  launched,  the  captain,  who  stood 
upon  the  tafferei  directing  the  movements  of  the  men, 
suddenly  exclaimed,  "the  ship's  afloat — cast  off  the  stern 
line !"  This  joyful  intelligence  thrilled  through  every 
heart — the  men  sprang  to  execute  the  command,  and  the 
ship  glided  slowly  past  the  ledge  of  rocks  into  deeper 
water ;  and  as  sail  after  sail  was  hoisted  and  sheeted 
home,  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  out  of  all  danger. 
When  the  sun  rose  above  the  horizon,  the  scene  of  our 
disaster  was  just  visible  far  astern. 

The  Gallapagos  Islands  are  an  extensive  group  lying 
under  the  equator  in  longitude  90°  west.  They  are  of 
a  volcanic  nature,  extremely  rugged  in  their  surface  and 
covered  over  with  dwarf  shrubbery  and  prickly  pears. 
Upon  several  of  these  islands  are  found  great  numbers 
of  terrapins,  weighing  frequently  five  or  six  hundred 
pounds,  and  surpassed  by  nothing  in  the  catalogue  of 
gastromanie.  Springs  of  water  are  very  rarely  met 
with,  and  these  are  indicated  by  the  paths  leading  to  them 
made  by  the  terrapin.  Among  the  wild  tracts  which 
cover  these  barren  islands,  individuals  wandering  from 
the  parties  with  whom  they  were  hunting  terrapin,  have 
miserably  perished  for  want  of  water,  and  human  skeletons 
have  been  found  at  different  times  declaring  the  horrid 
fate  of  the  lost  sufferers.  It  is  no  uncommon  occurrence 
for  men  that  have  strayed  from  their  parties  to  be  lost 
for  a  day  or  two.     Their  only  resource  to  alleviate  their 


AN     INCIDENT.  179 

thirst  is  to  cut  open  a  terrapin  and  drink  the  fluid  in  his 
stomach,  which  I  am  told,  like  that  of  the  camel,  contains 
a  reservoir  of  water,  sufficient  for  the  animal  for  a  long 
time.  One  of  our  men  told  me,  that  when  hunting 
terrapin  at  one  of  these  islands,  some  time  ago,  he  was 
separated  from  his  party  for  nearly  three  days.  Full  of 
horrible  apprehension  at  the  dreadful  fate  which  awaited 
him,  he  ran  madly  about  over  the  sharp  rocks  in  every 
direction,  in  the  hope  of  catching  a  glimpse  of  the  ship, 
while  his  brain  seemed  ready  to  burst  from  the  burning 
heat  of  the  sun  and  the  maddening  agony  of  his  awful 
situation.  On  the  third  day,  he  came  in  sight  of  the 
ship's  boat,  as  she  was  pulling  off  for  the  last  time,  after 
his  shipmates  had  searched  for  him  in  vain,  and  deposit- 
ing a  quantity  of  water  and  provisions  in  a  conspicuous 
place  for  his  use,  had  abandoned  him  to  his  dreadful 
fate. 

If  the  ship  had  been  wrecked  at  Chatham  Island,  the 
tranquil  weather  of  this  region  would  have  enabled  us 
to  land  from  the  wreck,  provisions  and  water,  of  which 
we  had  a  supply  for  more  than  two  months,  as  well  as 
any  thing  that  might  be  necessary.  This  is  a  favorite 
"  cruising  ground"  of  whalers,  who  would  doubtless  have 
afforded  us  assistance,  or  one  of  the  boats  would  have 
been  sent  to  Charles's  Island,  distant  more  than  a  hundred 
miles,  the  only  inhabited  Island  of  the  group.  If  these 
expedients  failed,  the  wreck  would  have  supplied  us  with 
ample  materials  for  building  a  small  vessel  in  which  to 
run  into  the  coast. 

Our  utmost  desire  is  now  to  reach  the  Society  Islands 
as  soon  as  possible,  where  the  ship  will  be  unladen  and 
"hove  down,"  to  repair  damages.  The  distance  to  the 
coast  is  about  six  hundred  miles,  but  as  there  are  but 
few  conveniences  that  we  require,  in  any  of  the  Spanish 


180  TO    THE    SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

ports,  it  is  deemed  advisable  to  steer  for  the  Society ' 
Islands,  distant  about  three  thousand  six  hundred  miles, 
a  long  distance  to  pass  over — farther  than  a  voyage 
to  England — in  a  leaky  ship,  whose  opening  seams  may 
send  her  to  the  bottom  before  half  that  distance  has  been 
traversed.  Upon  investigating  the  causes  of  our  late 
disaster,  it  appears  to  be  attributable  to  an  error  of 
judgment  rather  than  to  carelessness.  The  wind  was 
fair  during  the  night,  and  the  order  was  given  to  haul 
the  ship  on  the  wind  if  she  neared  the  land.  The  ship 
accordingly  was  steered  one  or  two  points  off  the  land,  but 
as  the  wind  was  light  and  there  was  a  strong  current  set- 
ting towards  the  Island,  she  drifted  much  faster  than  her 
progressive  motion,  and  from  the  haziness  resting  upon 
the  land,  the  distance  of  which  is  always  very  deceptive 
at  night,  she  was  close  upon  the  rocks  when  she  appeared 
to  be  several  miles  from  the  island. 

Wednesday,  April  15.  It  is  a  glorious  evening. 
The  sun  went  down  with  a  purple  and  golden  splendor, 
such  as  we  see  at  home  in  our  autumnal  sunsets,  an 
unusual  scene  in  the  tropics,  where  night  follows  too  fast 
upon  the  steps  of  day  for  protracted  twilight  to  intervene. 
The  full  orbed  moon  too  is  sporting  with  her  silvery 
beams  upon  the  glassy  ocean.  Just  after  sunset,  the 
surface  of  the  sea  seemed  to  be  alive  with  thousands  of 
minute  animals  that  threw  out  a  purple  light  in  their 
gambols  upon  the  water,  looking  very  much  like  the 
light  emitted  from  some  varieties  of  fluor  spar  when 
thrown  upon  a  plate  of  heated  iron.  These  animals 
were  doubtless  small  fish,  as  they  frequently  sprang  out 
of  water  when  attacked  by  larger  fish  to  which  they 
served  as  prey.  This  is  a  very  unusual  exhibition ; 
and  indeed,  it  is  said  to  be  never  seen  except  in  low  lati- 
tudes after  a  long  succession  of  calm  weather. 


CAPTURE    OP     A    WHALE.  181 

Thursday,  April  16.  On  Monday  last,  we  took  a 
large  sperm  whale,  which  yielded  over  sixty  barrels  of 
oil.  His  head  was  too  large  to  be  hoisted  upon  deck  as 
on  former  occasions;  the  lower  and  middle  sections 
were  hoisted  in  upon  deck,  while  the  case — (the  cavity 
in  the  upper  part  filled  with  almost  pure  sperm,)  was 
firmly  secured  in  an  upright  position  along  side  of  the 
ship,  and  the  spermaceti  bailed  out  of  it. 

After  the  process  of  "  trying  out"  was  completed,  the 
oil  was  "  run  down,"  an  important  operation  aboard  a 
whale  ship,  which  has  taken  place  with  us  once  or  twice 
before.  The  hold  of  large  vessels  is  usually  divided 
into  two  parts,  by  a  deck  parallel  to  the  upper  deck.  In 
the  lower  hold  of  a  whale  ship  the  casks  are  carefully 
arranged  in  tiers,  some  of  which  are  filled  with  salt 
water  for  ballast,  which  is  pumped  off',  and  oil  substitu- 
ted. There  is  a  long  hose  leading  from  a  tub  which 
receives  the  oil  through  an  opening  in  the  deck,  as  the 
oil  casks  are  successively  rolled  over  the  orifice.  By  this 
expeditious  method,  seventy  or  eighty  barrels  of  oil  may 
be  "  run  down,"  in  a  very  short  time. 

The  teeth  of  the  sperm  whale  vary  from  four  to  five 
inches  in  length,  and  are  imbedded  more  than  two-thirds 
in  the  lower  jaw.  They  are  susceptible  of  a  very  high 
polish,  and  are  beginning  to  be  valued  as  an  article  of 
merchandize,  which  has  induced  sperm  whalers  to  col- 
lect all  the  teeth  of  their  captured  whales,  as  constituting 
a  part  of  the  profits  of  the  voyage.  The  extraction  of 
the  teeth  is  the  practice  of  dentistry  on  a  grand  scale. 
The  patient,  i.  e.  the  lower  jaw,  is  bound  down  to  ring 
bolts  in  the  deck.  The  dentist,  a  boatsteerer,  with 
several  assistants,  first  makes  a  vigorous  use  of  his  gum 
lancet,  to  wit,  a  cutting  spade  wielded  in  both  hands.  A 
start  is  given  to  the  teeth,  while  his  assistants  apply  the 

16 


182  TO    THE    SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

instrument  of  extraction  to  one  end  of  the  row,  consisting 
of  a  powerful  purchase  of  two  fold  pulleys,  and  at  the 
tune  of  #"0!  hurrah  my  hearties  O !"  the  teeth  snap 
from  their  sockets  in  quick  succession.     (See  the  cut.) 

Great  numbers  of  Petrels  or  "  Mother  Carey's  chick- 
ens," flocked  around  the  ship  while  the  whale  was  along- 
side,, and  I  succeeded  in  capturing  several  of  them,  by 
hanging  a  few  threads  over  the  stern  attached  to  a  float  to 
keep  them  distended,  in  which  the  petrels,  in  flying  around 
the  stern,  became  entangled  and  were  easily  secured. 
The  petrel  is  a  very  pretty  bird,  about  as  large  as  the 
sparrow,  having  a  dark  brown,  glossy  plumage,  with  a 
fringe  of  white  feathers  upon  his  back  near  the  tail.  His 
nostrils  unite  in  a  single  tube  upon  the  upper  mandible  of 
the  bill,  and  he  is  web- footed  like  all  sea  birds.  "  Mother 
Carey's  chickens,"  as  the  sailors  call  these  birds,  are 
found  in  every  latitude  all  over  the  globe.  They  almost 
seem  to  have  sprung  out  of  the  ocean  ;  for  in  the  storm 
or  the  calm  alike,  they  are  seen  skimming  over  the 
waves  in  quest  of  food  many  hundred  miles  from  land. 

The  "Mother  Carey's  chicken,"  was  formerly  re- 
garded with  superstitious  fancies  by  the  mariner.  The 
appearance  of  these  birds  in  great  numbers,  was  supposed 
to  be  indicative  of  the  coming  storm,  and  while  their 
presence  was  a  bad  omen  and  to  be  deprecated,  the 
warning  was  received  with  a  becoming  reverence.  To 
shoot  one  of  them  would  doom  the  rash  offender  to  dire 
misfortune.  The  petrel,  therefore,  was  held  sacred 
in  the  creed  of  the  prudent  voyager. 

"  Up  and  down  !  Up  and  down ! 
From  the  base  of  the  wave  to  the  billow's  crown, 
And  amidst  the  flashing  and  leathery  foam 
The  Stormy  Petrel  finds  a  home, — 


PEAKED-NOSE     SHARK.  183 

A  home,  if  such  a  place  may  be 

For  her  who  lives  on  the  wide  wide  sea, 

On  the  craggy  ice,  in  the  frozen  air, 

And  only  seeketh  her  rocky  lair 

To  warm  her  young,  and  teach  them  spring 

At  once  o'er  the  waves  on  their  stormy  wing ! 

O'er  the  deep  !  O'er  the  deep  .' 

Where  the  whale,  and  the  shark,  and  the  sword  fish  sleep, 

Outflying  the  blast  and  the  driving  rain, 

The  Petrel  telleth  her  tale  in  vain ; 

For  the  mariner  curseth  the  warning  bird 

Who  bringeth  him  news  of  the  storms  unheard  ! 

Ah !  thus  does  the  prophet,  of  good  or  ill, 

Meet  hate  from  the  creatures  he  serveth  still : 

Yet  he  ne'er  falters : — So  Petrel !  spring 

Once  more  o'er  the  waves  on  thy  stormy  wing." 

Barry  Cornwall. 

The  whale  captured  the  other  day  was  hauled  along- 
side at  so  late  an  hour,  that  the  "  cutting  in  "  was  defer- 
red until  the  next  day,  and  we  were  obliged  to  "  lay  by  n 
him  all  night.  Great  numbers  of  sharks  were  attracted 
to  the  carcass,  and  on  the  succeeding  morning,  I  caught 
six  or  seven  of  them,  with  a  large  hook  attached  to  a 
chain  to  prevent  its  being  bitten  off'  by  the  powerful 
jaws  of  this  voracious  animal.  The  Peaked-Nose  Shark, 
of  which  variety  these  were  specimens,  is  about  seven 
feet  long.  He  has  a  long  fin  upon  each  side  of  his  body, 
black  upon  the  upper  side  and  white  underneath.  The 
flukes  are  vertical  and  of  unequal  length  ;  the  upper  one, 
the  longer  of  the  two,  seems  to  be  the  only  one  used  in 
directing  the  motions  of  the  animal.  The  mouth  is 
situated  at  some  distance  from  the  end  of  his  nose,  so 
that  he  is  obliged  to  turn  over  upon  his  side  whenever 
he  bites.  His  terrible  jaws  are  armed  with  extremely 
sharp  teeth,  inclining  inwards;  in  the  lower  jaw  the 
teeth  are  about  half  an  inch  long,  and  set  in  three  rows  j 
in  the  upper  jaw,  there  is  but  one  row,  but  the  teeth  are 


184  TO    THE     SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

larger  and  serrated.  A  bite  from  one  of  these  animals 
must  be  terrible  indeed.  Just  forward  of  the  side  fins 
are  five  orifices,  which  are  the  gills  through  which  he 
derives  air  from  the  water,  and  consequently  is  not 
compelled,  like  cetacea,  to  come  upon  top  of  water  to 
breathe.  The  skin  of  the  shark  is  very  hard  and  rough 
like  a  file,  which  renders  it  an  excellent  substitute  for 
sandpaper  in  smoothing  wood  work.  The  Peaked-Nose 
shark,  is  known  by  the  name  of  the  Blue  shark,  from 
the  dark  azure  tint  upon  his  back,  which  divides  his 
body  into  two  equal  shades,  a  dark  and  a  light.  He  is 
always  accompanied  by  several  pilot  fish  that  swim 
by  his  side,  and  manifest  the  greatest  consternation 
whenever  their  ferocious  companion  is  captured.  The 
shark  in  all  his  varieties,  is  regarded  with  inveterate 
hatred  by  the  sailor,  and  is  considered  a  legitimate 
subject  for  the  exercise  of  his  skill  in  darting  the  lance 
or  spade,  to  which  this  savage  animal  is  admirably 
adapted  from  his  apparent  insensibility  to  pain.  At  the 
repeated  gashes  he  receives  from  these  formidable  instru- 
ments, he  manifests  the  utmost  indifference  and  calm 
composure,  and  even  with  a  large  hook  in  his  mouth  he 
still  continues  to  exercise  his  voracious  propensities. 
Aboard  whale  ships,  sometimes,  upon  the  capture  of  a 
shark  during  the  process  of  trying  out,  he  is  drawn  up 
out  of  water  by  two  or  three  men,  and  a  gallon  or  more 
of  boiling  oil  is  poured  down  his  open  mouth,  a  most 
cruel  act,  but  defended  on  the  ground  that  "nothing  is 
too  bad  for  a  shark." 

Monday,  April  20.  A  large  school  of  sperm  whales 
was  seen  this  afternoon,  not  far  from  the  ship ;  but  the 
imperative  necessity  of  reaching  port  as  soon  as  possible, 
owing  to  the  leaky  state  of  the  ship,  obliged  us  to  pass  by 
them  unmolested,  although  some  of  the  men  exhibited 


CROSSING     THE     EQUATOR.  185 

the  impatience  of  the  curbed  hunter  for  the  attack. 
Since  our  disaster,  we  have  often  been  tantalized  by  such 
displays,  but  a  mighty  ocean  rolls  between  us  and  our 
much  wished  for  port,  and  the  loss  of  some  of  our  boats, 
might  be  the  consequence,  our  only  hope  in  case  the 
ship  should  founder.  We  are  now  driving  on  before  the 
south-east  trade  wind,  under  a  press  of  sail.  No  one  is 
sent  aloft  to  look  out  for  whales,  and  our  best  wish  is  to 
reach  our  distant  port  in  safety. 

Wednesday,  April  29.  An  amusing  incident  occur- 
red this  evening.  One  of  the  boatsteerers  was  walking 
near  the  tryworks,  when  a  large  flying  fish  in  endeavor- 
ing to  fly  over  the  ship,  struck  him  on  the  head  near  the 
ear.  The  violence  of  the  blow  was  such,  that  he  at  first 
thought  some  one  had  struck  him  with  his  fist,  an  insult 
which  called  his  irascibles  into  vigorous  action.  But 
seeing  no  one  near  him  except  the  flying  fish,  he  secured 
his  floundering  captive,  and  recovered  satisfaction  by 
cooking  and  eating  him. 

This  fish  was  of  unusual  size,  and  would  probably 
measure  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  in  length,  having 
two  sets  of  wings,  the  larger  located  similarly  with  those 
in  other  kinds,  and  the  additional  pair,  which  are  much 
smaller,  situated  about  midway  between  the  tail  and  the 
other  wings,  giving  to  the  fish  two  sets  of  propellors. 
We  see  immense  numbers  of  flying  fish  every  day,  rising 
up  on  each  side  of  the  ship,  as  she  dashes  on  over  the 
sea.  There  is  a  great  diversity  in  their  size,  from  those 
of  dimensions  equal  to  the  one  mentioned  above  to  those 
that  look  like  insects  skipping  over  the  waves. 

Wednesday,  May  6.  Sometime  this  morning,  we 
crossed  the  equator,  making  the  eighth  time  since  leav- 
ing the  United  States.     We  are  now  bound  for  Oahu, 

16* 


186  TO    THE    SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

one  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  although  our  first  intention, 
after  our  disaster  at  the  Gallipagos  Islands,  was  to  make 
a  direct  course  for  the  Society  Islands,  so  that  by 
having  land  under  our  lee,  we  might  run  the  ship  ashore 
to  prevent  her  foundering.  One  of  the  pumps  has  been 
kept  in  motion  constantly,  with  the  exception  of  short 
intervals.  Day  after  day  an  enumeration  has  been 
made  of  the  number  of  strokes  of  the  pump,  and  it  has 
been  with  no  ordinary  solicitude  that  the  extra  strokes 
of  the  pump  denoting  a  daily  increase,  have  been  care- 
fully noted.  To  wake  up  at  dead  of  night  and  hear  the 
dismal  clanking  of  the  pump,  and  to  feel  that  the  in- 
creasing leaks  may  send  you  to  the  bottom,  are  sufficient 
to  banish  sleep,  until  anxiety  has  worked  itself  to  rest. 

Friday,  May  15.  After  being  becalmed  for  several 
days  in  lat.  7°  north,  or  thereabouts,  we  took  the  north- 
east trade  winds,  which  drive  us  rapidly  on  our  course 
under  double  reefed  topsails.  For  several  days,  we 
seemed  to  be  in  a  region  where  the  winds  assembled 
from  every  point  of  the  compass,  and  for  many  hours  we 
had  a  fine  breeze  from  the  west,  an  unusual  occurence 
at  sea  within  the  tropics. 

The  trade  winds,  as  I  have  before  observed,  are 
regular  breezes  within  the  tropics  setting  towards  the 
equatorial  regions,  from  north-east  to  south-west  on  the 
north  side,  and  from  south-east  to  north-west  on  the 
south  side,  although  these  courses  are  by  no  means 
invariable,  but  admit  of  several  points  deviation.  The 
north-east  trades  usually  cease  in  lat.  7°  north,  or 
thereabouts,  and  there  is  here  a  region  of  calms,  rain, 
squalls,  and  water  spouts,  extending  between  the  limits 
of  the  trade  winds,  i.  e.  for  one  or  two  degrees,  as  the 
south-east  trades  are  commonly  met  with  as  soon  as 
four  degrees,  north  latitude,  although  the  limits  of  this 


TRADE    WINDS.  187 

belt  are  by  no  means  constant.  At  that  season  of  the 
year  when  the  sun  is  north  of  the  equator,  the  south-east 
trades  extend  much  farther  to  the  northward  of  the  line 
than  when  the  sun  has  a  southern  declination,  and  the 
calm  region  is  removed  to  a  more  northerly  position  ;'for 
the  solar  rays,  that  give  origin  to  all  atmospheric 
changes,  being  carried  farther  north  during  the  summer 
season,  the  rarefaction  of  the  atmosphere  in  the  equato- 
rial regions,  the  cause  of  the  trades,  is  removed  farther 
north,  and  vice  versa,  when  the  sun  is  approaching  his 
winter  solstice.  The  greater  extent  of  the  south-east 
trades,  their  blowing  across  the  equator  and  meeting  the 
north-east  trades  far  to  the  northward  of  the  equator,  are 
curious  facts.  It  would  be  more  natural  to  suppose  that 
the  region  lying  immediately  under  the  equator  would 
be  the   neutral  ground  between  the  winds. 

The  north-east  trades  are  more  apt  to  be  fresh  and 
squally  than  the  south-east,  which  are  commonly  very 
regular.  For  week  after  week  the  voyager  is  wafted  along 
by  the  south-east  trades,  without  altering  a  sail,  inhal- 
ing a  pure  mild  atmosphere,  with  a  lovely  sky  overhead, 
and  a  deep  blue  tranquil  ocean  extending  upon  each  side 
to  the  farthest  bounds  of  the  horizon,  whose  heaving 
waters  speed  him  on  his  course. 

Saturday,  May  23.  On  Wednesday  evening  last,  as 
the  sun  went  down,  the  south-easternmost  point  of 
Hawaii  was  dimly  seen  rising  like  a  shadow  above  the 
waves.  On  Thursday  night,  we  ran  down  the  passage 
between  Molakai  and  Maui  with  the  intention  of  stop- 
ping a  day  or  two  at  Lahaina,  a  settlement  on  the  latter 
Island,  but  as  the  weather  was  thick  and  squally,  the 
attempt  was  deemed  too  hazardous.  Yesterday  morning 
we  came  to  anchor  off  the  harbor  of  Honolulu,  the  capital 


188  TO    THE     SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  in  forty  days  after  our  disaster 
at  the  Gallapagos  Islands,  having  sailed  more  than  five 
thousand  miles  in  a  leaky  ship,  with  the  pumps  going 
night  and  day.  Though  we  arrived  in  safety  at  the  port 
of  our  destination,  yet  the  passage  was  not  without 
great  solicitude  as  may  be  readily  imagined. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

Seamen's  chapel — Honolulu  harbor — Fruits  and  vegetables — 
Appearance  of  the  natives — Native  dwellings — Police  regu- 
lations— Fort — Governor  Kekuanoa — Capt.  Brown — For- 
eign residents — Horses  and  vehicles. 

Sunday,  May,  24.  I  attended  church  to-day,  for  the 
first  time  since  leaving  the  United  States  ;  and  after 
being  excluded  from  the  privileges  of  the  sanctuary  for 
many  months,  while  roving  over  the  vast  ocean,  it  was 
most  welcome  to  me  to  unite  in  the  exercises  of  religion 
with  the  people  of  God  in  these  remote  Isles  of  the  sea. 
The  services  were  held  in  the  Seamen's  chapel,  a  plain, 
two  story  edifice,  painted  white,  surmounted  by  a  cupola, 
from  the  top  of  which,  the  Bethel  flag  waves  its  wel- 
come to  the  shipping  in  the  port.  The  basement  is 
spacious,  and  is  divided  into  several  rooms,  each  of 
which  is  appropriated  to  some  object  of  public  utility. 
The  discourse,  delivered  by  Mr.  Tinker,  missionary  from 
Kauai  (Towi)  was  a  very  creditable  performance.  Judg- 
ing from  appearances,  the  congregation  was  highly  re- 
spectable, and  the  music,  though  simple,  impressed  me 
with  emotions  of  pleasure  such  as  the  most  studied  har- 
mony would  have  failed  to  do,  on  ordinary  occasions. 

Monday.  May  25.    After  one  or  two  attempts  to  enter 


190  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

the  harbor,  which  were  unsuccessful,  owing  to  the  strong 
breezes  off  the  land,  the  ship  was  taken  in  this  morning. 
The  anchorage  outside  the  harbor  is  upon  a  shelving 
bank  which  inclines  at  so  great  an  angle,  that  a  ship  is 
liable  to  drag  her  anchor  when  the  wind  blows  hard  off 
the  land.  The  depth  of  the  water  too,  is  very  great,  and 
ships  have  been  blown  to  sea,  from  the  anchorage,  with 
seventy  or  eighty  fathoms  of  chain  out,  with  the  pros- 
pect of  two  or  three  days  hard  labor  before  they  return 
again.  Before  sun  rise,  there  is  usually  a  dead  calm 
under  the  lee  of  the  land,  but  soon  after  the  sun  has  risen, 
the  wind  springs  up,  and  increases  until  about  noon, 
when  it  blows  fresh,  coming  down  in  strong  puffs  from 
the  mountains.  Honolulu  possesses  a  very  fine  harbor, 
and  is  the  only  one  in  these  Islands  where  ships  may  lie 
in  perfect  safety,  and  undergo  the  repairs  which  may  be 
necessary.  It  is  formed  by  a  coral  reef  extending  across 
a  recess  in  the  Island  of  Oahu.  Through  an  opening  in 
this  barrfer,  upon  each  side  of  which,  the  roaring  surf 
beats  incessantly,  is  the  passage  into  the  harbor  of  about 
a  mile  in  length. 

We  broke. anchorage,  about  four  o'clock,  A.  M.,  and 
ran  into  the  mouth  of  the  passage  under  sail,  when  all 
sails  were  run  down,  and  a  long  line  carried  ashore  to  a 
party  of  natives,  fifty  or  more,  who  were  stationed  upon 
the  nearest  point  of  land  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the 
passage.  Then  with  loud  shouts,  they  dashed  through 
the  shallow  water  on  the  margin  of  the  bay,  and,  with 
the  ship  moving  steadily  along  up  the  passage,  soon  con- 
ducted her  to  her  proper  anchorage  near  the  docks.  It 
is  due  to  whalers  to  say,  that  they  are  noted  for  their 
courtesy  in  proffering  their  boats  and  service  to  tow  a  ship 
into  harbor,  and  in  rendering  other  acts  of  civility  of  this 
nature.     There  was,  however,  but  one  whale  ship  in  the 


HONOLULU    HARBOR.  191 

harbor,  which  obliged  us  to  employ  natives,  as  I  have 
described,  otherwise,  we  should  have  been  towed  in  by 
boats.  At  the  head  of  the  harbor,  are  several  docks,  the 
timbers  of  which  that  extend  below  the  surface  of  the 
water,  are  always  coppered,  to  defend  them  from  the  rav- 
ages of  animalculae,  which  start  into  life  in  countless 
myriads  in  the  tepid  waters  of  the  tropics. 

Negociations,  for  the  repairs  of  the  North  America, 
have  been  made  with  Ladd  &  Co.,  an  American  mer- 
cantile house,  standing  among  the  first  in  importance  for 
extent  of  business  on  these  Islands.  They  furnish  the 
most  ample  facilities  for  heaving  the  ship  down,  as  well 
as  commodious  store-houses  for  the  cargo,  built  of  coral 
stone,  an  article  obtained  from  the  reefs  in  great  abun- 
dance, and  which  is  in  frequent  use  as  a  building  material. 
There  is  also  another  ship-yard  close  by,  belonging  to 
some  ship  carpenters,  and  provided  with  all  the  appara- 
tus necessary  for  heaving  down  and  repairing  a  ship.  I 
state  these  facts  to  give  some  idea  of  the  importance  of 
these  Islands  to  the  commerce  of  nations  afloat  in  the 
north  Pacific,  an  importance  that  can  only  be  appre- 
ciated by  those  that  are  disabled  in  this  remote  region  of 
the  world. 

-  Honolulu  stands  upon  a  plain  at  the  opening  of  the 
valley  of  Nuanu,  running  across  the  Island  between 
high  mountains,  whose  sterile  peaks  give  but  little  indi- 
cation of  the  fertility  of  the  lovely  valleys  at  their  base. 
There  are  several  valleys  upon  the  Island  in  a  high  state 
of  culture,  and  rich  in  verdure  and  productions.  The 
valley  of  Nuanu  is  the  garden  of  Honolulu,  exhibiting 
every  variety  of  fruits  and  vegetables.  These  consist  of 
delicious  melons  of  several  kinds,  grapes,  figs,  pine 
apples,  bananas,  plantains,  taro,  yams,  sugar-cane,  po- 
tatoes, and  the  common  culinary  vegetables  we  have  at 


192  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

home.  In  their  proper  season,  these  are  all  brought 
into  town  and  are  either  exposed  for  sale  in  the  mar- 
kets, or  carried  around  to  the  houses  of  the  foreign 
residents.  All  articles  of  merchandise  of  this  kind  are 
transported  in  calibashes,  large  flat  gourds,  eighteen  or 
twenty  inches  in  diameter,  fitted  with  a  cover  of  the  same 
material,  and  suspended  in  net  work,  attached  to  the  ex- 
tremity of  a  pole,  which  the  native  balances  across  his 
shoulder,  preserving  the  equilibrium  by  a  corresponding 
calabash  containing  merchandise,  or  with  admirable  sa- 
gacity, substituting  a  large  stone  in  preference  to  divid- 
ing his  load.  This,  however,  is  not  peculiar  to  the  Ha- 
waiian Islands ;  for  in  the  "good  old  times"  of  New  Am- 
sterdam, many  an  honest  cultivator  of  the  soil  was  seen 
riding  to  mill,  with  a  bag  of  meal  on  one  side  of  his 
horse  counterbalanced  by  a  large  stone,  while  the  poor 
animal  went  groaning  under  this  most  unphilosophical 
load. 

The  sweet  potato  of  these  Islands  is  remarkably  fine. 
Its  external  appearance  is  like  those  amorphous  yams 
imported  into  the  United  States,  from  the  West  Indies, 
and  it  admits  of  every  variety  of  color,  from  a  dark 
purple,  through  the  intermediate  shades,  to  red,  then  to 
green  or  yellow.  There  are  several  groves  of  cocoa- 
nut  trees  on  the  beach.  Though  they  shoot  up  to  a  great 
height,  they  are  wanting  in  that  vigor  of  growth  and 
canopy  of  waving  leaves  exhibited  by  the  cocoa-nut  trees 
of  Tacames. 

Honolulu  contains  about  ten  thousand  inhabitants  in 
the  town  and  the  immediate  vicinity.  The  foreign  resi- 
dents number  not  far  from  six  hundred,  and  wear  the 
European  costume.  The  toilet  of  the  natives,  that  is, 
of  the  masculine  portion,  is  made  in  rather  more  of  the 
primitive  style  than  1  had  expected  to  see.     But  a  small 


THE     NATIVES.  193 

proportion  are  to  be  seen  with  a  pair  of  pantaloons, 
except  on  Sundays  and  holydays.     With  but  a  maro 
around  the  waist,  and  perhaps  with  a  tapa  or  mantle  of 
native  cloth,   passing  over   the   shoulder  and  knotted 
under  the  opposite  arm,  they  walk  off  with  as  much 
dignity  and  consciousness  of  superiority  as  the  more  fa- 
vored "  lords  of  creation"  display.     I  have  seen  a  fellow, 
in  a  sailor's  heavy  pea-jacket,  which,  when  buttoned  up 
to  his  chin,   concealed  but  half  his   person,  strutting 
through  the  street,  in  the  broiling  sun,  at  noon,  too  proud 
to  look  at  any  one ;  and  another,  with  a  strange  disre- 
gard of  the  rest  of  his  person,  with  the  exception  of  the 
arrangement  of  the  maro,  was  seen  walking  the  streets 
with  his  feet  inserted  into  a  pair  of  enormous  boots,  and 
manifesting  the  utmost  indifference  to  surrounding  objects. 
These  incongruities  are  rather  rare  however,  either  from 
an  inability  of  the  natives  to  possess  themelves  of  these 
luxuries,  or  because  they  prefer  the  simplicity  of  nature. 
The  native  women  are  dressed  in  long  gowns  like  the 
loose  morning  dresses  of  the  ladies  of  our  country.  To  in- 
crease their  charms,  of  which,  judging  from  appearances, 
nature  has  not  been  very  profuse,  many  of  them  tie  a 
gay  shawl  tightly  around  the  waist,  which  gives  them  a 
rather   ludicrous   gait.      With   a  bright  yellow  shawl 
around  her  waist,  a  wreath  of  brilliant  feathers  or  flowers 
encircling  her  brow,  and  a  huge  comb  towering  up  with 
masses  of  dark  hair  coiled  around  it,  a  Hawaiian  lady  is 
dressed  a  la  mode.     The  houses  of  the  common  people 
are  dingy  looking  cabins,  the  walls  of  which  are  con- 
structed of  adobies,  blocks  of  moulded  clay  hardened  in 
the  sun,  and  compacted  by  an  admixture  of  grass.    The 
roofs  are  of  thatch,  which  however,  is  a  very  common 
covering  for  the  outhouses  of  the  foreign  residents.   The 
residences  of  the  chiefs  are  in  one  or  two  instances  very 


194  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

superior  houses.  There  are  now  but  few  high  chiefs  of 
the  nation,  many  of  them  having  died  within  a  few  years. 
The  authority  of  those  now  living  is  far  less  despotic 
than  was  the  case  in  former  times.  A  man's  rank 
depends  entirely  upon  the  rank  of  his  mother.  If  a 
woman  of  high  rank  marries  a  man  of  low  rank,  all  her 
children  will  belong  to  the  higher  class :  but  if  the  case 
is  reversed,  the  children  will  be  of  low  rank.  Marriage 
does  not  affect  the  rank  of  either  party.  Thus  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Oahu  owes  his  station  to  his  marriage  with  one 
of  the  royal  family.  His  rank,  however,  is  that  of  an 
inferior  chief,  and  as  his  wife  is  dead,  he  is  liable  to  be 
deposed  at  any  moment.  The  police  regulations  through- 
out these  islands  are  very  good.  Until  within  a  year, 
ardent  spirits  of  all  kinds  were  subject  to  so  heavy  a 
duty,  as  to  be  almost  prohibited,  but  the  exertions  of  the 
"highly  enlightened  and  chivalrous"  la  belle  France, 
urged  on  by  the  clamors  of  a  few  brandy  loving  foreign- 
ers, compelled  these  humble  islanders  to  abrogate  the 
oppressive  duties  on  ardent  spirits,  and  accommodate 
them  to  their  convenience.  A  mode  of  determining  the 
tariff  prevalent  no  where  else  except  where  u  might  gives 
right."  And  these  very  men  with  an  effrontery  which 
is  really  admirable,  arrogate  to  themselves  an  important 
place  in  the  advancement  of  civilization  and  the  arts  of 
life  at  the  Hawaiian  Islands  ! 

The  laws  for  the  restraint  of  licenciousness  are  very 
strict,  the  offenders  being  subject  to  imprisonment 
at  hard  labor  in  the  fort.  The  constables,  when  on 
duty,  carry  a  cane  as  the  badge  of  office.  While 
the  cargo  is  landing  from  the  North  America,  two 
or  three  of  them  are  stationed  about  the  wharf  for  its 
protection  as  well  as  for  repressing  the  curiosity  of  the 
natives,  that  are  not  employed   about  the  ship.     The 


THE     FORT.  195 

penitentiary  system  is  adopted  throughout  these  islands  ; 
criminals  being  compelled  to  labor  on  the  roads  or  in 
quarrying  coral  stone  from  the  reefs,  or  in  other  public 
works.  Near  the  head  of  the  harbor  stands  the  fort,  a 
large  area,  nearly  square,  enclosed  by  a  thick  wall  of 
coral  stone,  which  is  finished  off  with  white  plaster.  En 
passant^  the  Hawaiian  islands  are  not  dependent  upon 
foreign  importations  for  the  lime  used  in  the  construction 
of  buildings ;  the  reefs  afford  an  exhaustless  supply  of 
coral,  a  carbonate  of  lime,  which  when  subjected  to  fire 
is  converted  into  as  good  lime  as  that  which  we  obtain 
from  calcined  shells.  In  the  centre  of  the  fort,  rises  the 
flagstaff,  upon  which  the  national  flag,  (the  British 
Union,  with  alternate  stripes  of  red  and  white,)  is  hoist- 
ed every  time  a  ship  arrives,  as  well  as  on  the  Sabbath 
and  on  pahau  days,  when  the  common  people  are 
required  to  labor  for  the  government.  It  was  formerly 
customary  for  the  chiefs  to  exact  every  thing  they  might 
choose  from  the  canaille,  who  were  compelled  to  work 
almost  every  day  to  satisfy  their  oppressive  demands. 
But  now,  the  authority  of  the  chiefs  is  less  arbitrary,  and 
these  pahau  or  work  days,  do  not  recur  so  frequently. 

The  other  day,  I  made  a  visit  to  the  fort.  On  the 
left  hand  side  is  a  range  of  small  buildings  appropriated 
to  Kekuanoa,  the  Governor,  parallel  to  which  runs  the 
magazine,  a  stone  vault  ten  or  fifteen  feet  long.  On  the 
right  hand  side  there  is  a  row  of  small  thatched  houses, 
whose  tops  projecting  a  little  above  the  ramparts,  are 
pierced  with  grated  openings  intended  as  dungeon 
windows.  These  are  the  prisons  of  the  island,  although 
the  impression  upon  a  stranger  of  their  use  as  a  place  of 
confinement  would  be  rather  vague.  The  Governor 
manages  however,  to  hold  his  prisoners  pretty  safe, 


196  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

and  in  most  cases,  finds  work  enough  for  them  to 
do,  to  keep  them  out  of  mischief.  The  armament 
of  the  fort  consists  of  fifty  or  sixty  iron  guns,  stationed 
upon  every  side  of  the  ramparts.  Between  each 
of  these,  is  a  stone  mound,  of  no  possible  use  that  I 
could  discern,  except  perhaps,  to  tumble  into  a  breach 
in  the  wall  in  case  of  an  attack,  for  which  they  are 
admirably  disposed.  The  guns  on  the  sea  side  are 
twelve  pounders  I  should  judge,  while  those  pointing 
towards  the  town  are  much  smaller.  In  the  centre  of 
the  line  of  guns  pointing  towards  the  sea,  is  a  long  brass 
piece  embossed  with  a  great  variety  of  ornaments  and 
inscribed  with  numerous  Latin  phrases,  to  construe 
which  would  puzzle  the  ingenuity  of  king  Kauikeaouli 
and  his  chiefs.  Previous  to  my  going  into  the  fort,  I 
had  been  told  that  no  ceremony  was  expected  of  visiters, 
in  going  the  rounds  of  the  fortifications,  and  as  there 
were  no  sentinels  stationed  at  the  gate,  which  was  open, 
I  walked  in  without  any  delay,  and  ascended  the  battle- 
ments for  the  purpose  of  taking  a  walk  around  them. 
Before  1  had  proceeded  very  far  however,  a  native  came 
running  across  the  area  below,  and  in  broken  English 
enquires — "Have  seen  de  Gov'nor?" — "No,  I  have  no 
particular  desire  to  see  him  just  at  this  moment."  "  Aole 
maikai !  (not  good,)  must  see  Gov'nor — 'spose  you  no 
see,  he  tell  you  lawe  aku,  (go  away.)"  At  this  eloquent 
appeal  which  sounded  much  better  to  my  ear  than — 
"Hullo  Mister,  what  you  doing  here?* You  may  just 
take  your  walking  papers  and  be  off,"  with  which  a 
foreigner  intruding  unintentionally  into  a  similar  place 
in  my  own  country,  might  have  been  saluted,  I  followed 
the  Kanaka.  His  excellency  received  me  very  politely, 
and  his  salutation    "  aloha"   was  uttered   with    more 


THE     FORT.  197 

dignity  than  the  guttural  intonations  of  the  vulgar.  But 
a  cloud  gathered  upon  his  brow  when  he  was  told  that  I 
had  the  temerity  to  commence  a  review  of  his  fortifica- 
tions without  having  obtained  his  permission.  "  Why 
you  no  come  see  Gov'nor?"  demanded  the  Kanaka  before 
mentioned,  who  acted  as  interpreter.  "  Because  I  was 
told  that  there  was  no  necessity  for  that."  "  Who  tell  you 
that?"  My  authority  was  given,  at  which  they  both  ex- 
claimed, "  Aole  maitai"  in  astonishment  for  the  low  es- 
timation in  which  their  dignity  was  held  by  the  foreign- 
ers. After  conferring  together  for  some  time,  I  was 
asked  if  "  I  did  not  see  Governor  when  I  went  to  see 
fort  in  other  country  ?"  "  No  !"  I  answered,  if  the  Gov- 
ernor does  not  wish  any  one  to  see  his  fort,  he  stations  a 
man  at  the  gate  to  keep  every  one  away.  If  he  does  not  do 
so,  as  you  have  not  done,  any  man  might  come  in  and  go  out 
as  he  chose."  While  this  answer  was  under  discussion, 
I  had  a  good  view  of  the  Governor.  He  is  a  large,  well- 
formed  man,  possessing  that  full  developement  of  features 
which  characterizes  the  natives  in  distinction  from  the 
foreigners,  particularly  Americans.  His  countenance 
gave  me  the  impression  of  moroseness,  but  this  expres- 
sion was  owing  to  his  feeling  himself  treated  with  dis- 
respect, by  my  unceremonious  introduction.  He  is  con- 
sidered as  capable  as  any  in  the  nation  for  the  office  he 
holds,  and  possesses  great  dignity  of  manner.  After  a 
good  deal  of  meditation,  he  told  me  I  might  take  a  sur- 
vey of  the  fortifications  if  I  pleased.  They  are  all  very 
anxious  to  adopt  the  customs  of  the  most  civilized  nations. 
Capt.  Brown,  of  the  whale  ship  "  Catharine,"  of  Nan- 
tucket, arrived  here  the  other  day  for  the  purpose  of  dis- 
charging one  of  his  men  who  is  dangerously  sick  with  a 
pulmonary  affection.  In  conversation  with  him,  he 
gave  me  an  account  of  a  personal  adventure  among  the 

IT* 


198  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

Marquesas  Islands,  which  I  relate,  as  it  illustrates  the 
treacherous  character  of  the  natives  of  many  of  the 
Polynesian  Islands.  Leaving  Nookaheva  bay  in  the 
Island  of  Nookaheva,  he  sailed  around  to  the  opposite 
side  of  the  Island,  for  the  purpose  of  trafficking  with  the 
natives  that  assembled  in  great  numbers  upon  the  beach, 
as  his  boat  lay  on  the  water,  a  few  yards  from  the  shore. 
The  Tipaiis,  the  name  of  this  tribe,  are  very  ferocious, 
and  to  gratify  their  cannibal  appetites,  they  are  not  very 
scrupulous  in  making  choice  of  their  victims.  Capt. 
B.,  aware  of  their  reputation  for  ferocity,  disregarded  all 
their  solicitations  to  land,  but  made  an  agreement  with 
them  to  supply  his  ship  with  a  number  of  swine,  which 
were  to  be  brought  down  to  the  beach  on  the  coming 
day.  Accordingly,  at  the  appointed  time,  these  animals 
were  exhibited  upon  the  beach  tied  together,  and  every 
appearance  of  good  faith  was  observed  to  induce  the 
captain  to  come  on  shore.  For  a  long  time  he  hesitated 
about  entrusting  himself  within  their  power,  until  after 
assurances  from  a  Spanish  boy  (who  had  accompanied 
him  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  island,)  that  there 
would  be  no  danger,  he  landed  upon  the  beach.  He 
was  instantly  seized  by  a  party  of  natives,  and  hurried 
off  to  some  distance  from  shore,  while  the  swine  were 
cut  loose  that  the  savages  had  collected  together  to  decoy 
the  captain  within  their  reach.  They  now  thronged 
around  him  with  horrid  yells  of  triumph,  and  clamor- 
ously demanded  of  him,  as  a  ransom,  forty  musquets  and 
six  kegs  of  gunpowder.  As  he  was  unable  to  comply 
with  their  extravagant  demands,  a  dreadful  doom  was 
prepared  for  him.  With  awful  anticipations  of  his  horrid 
fate,  he  saw  them  collecting  together  piles  of  dry  wood, 
and  digging  holes  in  the  ground,  to  be  used  as  ovens  for 
roasting  him,  upon  the  following  morning;  and  it  was 


CAPTAIN    BROWN.  199 

with  the  agony  of  despair  that  he  found  himself  sur- 
rounded at  night  upon  every  side  by  his  merciless  cap- 
tors. About  midnight,  however,  he  stole  away  from  his 
sleeping  guards,  in  company  with  the  Spanish  boy,  and 
after  wandering  about  among  the  mountains,  he  made 
his  escape  to  the  tribe  to  which  the  Spanish  boy  belonged, 
by  whom  he  had  been  adopted,  after  running  away  from 
some  vessel  which  had  stopped  at  Nookaheva.  Capt.  B., 
soon  regained  his  ship,  when  the  crew  were  eager  to 
take  vengeance  upon  the  savages  for  their  treachery,  but 
he  wisely  restrained  them,  believing  that  any  thing  of 
this  kind  would  be  retaliated  upon  the  next  ship  that 
might  visit  them.  The  day  after  his  escape,  the  Tipaiis 
challenged  the  friendly  tribe  to  mortal  conflict,  upon  their 
refusal  to  give  up  into  their  power  the  man  who  had  fled 
to  them  for  protection.  A  battle  ensued  between  the 
tribes,  in  which  two  men  were  killed  upon  each  side, 
and  hostilities  then  ceased  to  allow  the  contending 
parties  the  luxury  of  feeding  upon  their  respective 
prisoners. 

Honolulu,  the  capital  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  is 
built  upon  a  plain  about  a  mile  wide,  washed  by  the  sea 
on  one  side  and  terminated  by  high  mountains  that  rise 
up  abruptly  in  the  rear  of  it.  The  town  is  laid  out 
regularly  in  wide  streets  with  adobie  walls  running 
parallel  to  them.  All  the  enclosures  here  are  made  of 
this  material,  which  when  plastered  with  lime  and  white- 
washed, as  is  often  the  case,  have  a  glaring  effect  con- 
trasting with  the  sombre  walls  and  dwellings  of  the  na- 
tives. The  houses  of  the  foreign  residents  are  built  in 
cottage  style,  with  green  verandahs  or  piazzas  around 
them,  while  the  adjacent  grounds  are  tastefully  laid  out 
and  planted  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  Belonging  to 
each,  are  several  small  outhouses  in  which  the  various 


1 


200  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

operations  of  domestic  economy  are  conducted.  The 
number  of  foreign  residents  is  not  far  from  six  hundred 
as  I  observed  before.  Some  of  them  live  in  good  style 
with  their  houses  adorned  with  elegant  furniture,  and 
command  all  the  luxuries  of  foreign  cities.  It  was 
with  no  small  interest  that  I  heard  the  notes  of  the 
piano  forte,  so  many  thousands  of  miles  from  my  native 
land.  There  have  been  musical  concerts  got  up  at  Hon- 
olulu, by  amateur  performers  among  the  residents,  the 
proceeds  of  which  have  been  given  to  charitable  objects ; 
and  I  have  heard  "  a  song  for  the  oak,  the  brave  old 
oak,"  "  Pensez  a  moi,"  and  other  well  known  airs,  sung 
with  as  much  spirit  and  taste  as  in  my  own  country. 
The  foreign  residents  are  very  hospitable,  and  the 
kindness  with  which  I  have  been  received  is  extremely 
gratifying.  As  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  judge  from 
observation,  there  appears  to  be  a  division  of  sentiment 
among  them— those  that  favor,  and  those  that  have  an  an- 
tipathy to  the  protestant  missionaries.  If  you  are  known 
to  be  a  "  missionary  man,"  you  will  not  be  overburdened 
with  attentions  from  their  opponents  and  vice  versa. 

I  was  much  surprised  when  I  was  told  that  the 
beautiful  cottages  belonging  to  the  foreign  residents, 
were  most  of  them  built  of  adobies,  and  plastered  with 
lime.  These  answer,  however,  very  well  as  a  building 
material,  as  they  grow  hard  by  age ;  and  as  they  are 
protected  from  the  rain,  which  rarely  falls,  by  the  pro- 
jecting roof,  they  are  sufficiently  durable.  There  are 
also  several  large  and  handsome  dwelling  houses  and 
stores,  built  of  coral  stone  cut  from  the  reefs. 

The  streets  of  Honolulu  are  hard  and  smooth,  and  a 
carriage  rolls  along  without  a  stone  to  jar  it.  Carriages 
are  rather  rare  articles  of  luxury  here,  and  even  these 
few  have  not  a  very  modern  aspect.     The  principle  ve- 


HORSES     AND     VEHICLES.  201 

hides  are  little  four  wheeled  waggons,  about  the  size  of 
those  which  are  usually  appendages  to  a  nursery  at 
home,  in  which,  drawn  by  one  or  two  kanakas,  a  lady 
is  seen  riding  in  style  through  the  streets,  in  going  to 
church  or  making  a  fashionable  call.  The  horses  upon 
these  islands,  are  imported  from  California,  and  riding 
horseback  is  a  favorite  amusement  with  all  classes. 
There  is  a  livery  stable  in  one  of  the  principal  streets, 
where  are  exhibited  an  array  of  fine  horses  that  many 
an  equestrian  might  envy.  The  natives  always  gal- 
lop off  at  a  John  Gilpin  pace  without  any  regard  to 
life  or  limb,  either  of  themselves  or  of  the  poor  animals 
they  are  goading  to  death.  The  women  ride  in  the 
same  style,  though  with  a  perfect  indifference  to  side 
saddles,  in  imitation  of  the  Spanish  ladies  of  the  South 
American  coast. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

SANDWICH  ISLANDS, 


Valley  of  Nuanu-Taro— Poi— Natives  at  work — Aqatic  feats 
— An  affecting  incident — Native  canoes — Commerce  of  the 
Hawaiian  Islands — Moving  a  house — Treatment  of  a  luna- 
tic— Native  salutation — Chinese — Annoyances — Scorpions- 
Centipedes. 


The  other  day,  I  took  a  delightful  walk  in  company 
with  a  friend  up  the  valley  of  Nuanu,  which,  ahout  a 
mile  in  width,  opening  in  the  rear  of  the  town,  extends 
entirely  across  the  island.  It  is  delightfully  verdant, 
contrasting  widely  with  the  barren,  sunburnt  mountains 
whose  craggy  precipices  tower  up  on  each  side  of  it,  into 
the  region  of  the  clouds.  A  mountain  streamlet  de- 
scending to  the  sea,  is  diverted  into  a  thousand  little 
canals,  which  distribute  its  waters  among  the  taro 
patches  through  which  we  threaded  our  way.  These 
taro  patches  are  small  basins  of  a  quadrilateral  form, 
prepared  with  great  care,  into  which  the  waters  are 
directed  to  give  sustenance  to  the  taro,  which  requires 
constant  irrigation.  The  taro,  is  a  bulbous  root  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  inches  in  circumference,  of  an  oval 
shape,  having  usually  a  purple  tint,  and  puts  forth  several 
stalks  terminating  in  a  broad,  arrowheaded  leaf  like  that  of 
the  calla  ethiopica.  When  raw,  itsjuices  are  extremely  acrid 


VALLEY     OF     NUANU.  203 

and  pungent,  as  if  nettles  had  been  introduced  into  the 
mouth ;  but  when  cooked,  it  is  of  a  highly  nutricious 
character,  like  that  of  the  finest  potato.  With  the 
natives,  it  is  a  sine  qua  non,  in  a  much  higher  degree 
than  the  potato  is  to  inhabitants  of  the  Emerald  Isle ; 
and  a  man's  right  and  title  to  his  taro  patch  is  defended 
with  the  utmost  determination.  It  is  in  fact,  the  only- 
personal  property  of  any  value  possessed  by  the  ignobile 
vulgus.  In  converting  the  taro  into  use,  the  root  is 
baked  in  the  ground,  until  it  becomes  dry  and  mealy, 
when  it  is  macerated  by  a  smooth  stone,  with  an  ad- 
mixture of  water,  until  it  assumes  the  consistency  of 
bookbinder's  paste,  and  is  then  called  poi.  It  is  now  set 
aside  for  twenty-four  hours,  when  it  becomes  slightly 
acidulous,  and  is  then  considered  as  having  attained  the 
proper  flavor.  Then  stretched  out  upon  the  ground,  or 
adopting  some  other  easy  posture,  the  native  with  a  dried 
fish  in  his  left  hand,  prepares  himself  for  his  repast. 
Inserting  the  forefinger  of  the  right  hand  into  the  mess,, 
he  turns  it  round  and  round  until  a  mass  of  sufficient 
size  adheres,  when  with  the  head  thrown  back, 
and  mouth  open,  he  introduces  the  poi,  with  the 
utmost  dexterity  and  sleight  of  hand.  A  piece  of  fish 
administered  by  the  other  hand  succeeds,  la  rima  poi, 
"  the  poi  finger,"  divested  of  its  adhesive  covering ;  and 
thus,  these  processes  are  kept  up  alternately  until  the 
materials  are  exhausted.  So  extravagantly  fond  are  the 
natives  of  their  fish  and  poi,  that  the  most  luxurious 
feast  could  not  present  superior  charms  to  their  eyes. 
Even  the  chiefs,  after  making  a  repast  in  the  European 
style,  are  regularly  served  with  a  dish  of  poi,  without 
which  they  would  consider  themselves  as  having  fared 
very  poorly. 

Farther  up  the  valley,  is  me  Pari  of  Nuanu,  an 


204  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

awful  precipice  in  the  mountains,  celebrated  in  the 
history  of  the  islands,  as  the  scene  of  the  destruction  of 
the  King  of  Oahu  with  his  followers,  who  were  hurled 
down  the  abyss  by  the  victorious  army  of  Tamehameha 
the  Great  upon  his  invasion  of  Oahu.  Just  back  of  the 
town,  is  a  mountain  presenting  a  circular  front,  which 
has  been  fancifully  named  the  "Punch  bowl,"  from  a 
peculiar  aptitude  possessed  by  English  and  Americans 
for  giving  awkward  names  to  geographical  points.  It  is 
terminated  at  the  top  in  a  spacious  platform,  down  the 
sides  of  which  are  numerous  angular  columns.  Above, 
a  range  of  long  iron  guns,  fourteen  forty -two  'pounders, 
which  were  stationed  there  at  an  immense  labor,  com- 
mands the  town  and  harbor,  and  the  fortification  might 
be  rendered  impregnable. 

In  the  valley,  are  one  or  two  country  seats  belonging 
to  gentlemen  residing  in  town.  Towards  one  of  these 
we  directed  our  steps,  as  fast  as  possible,  against  the 
wind  which  was  blowing  almost  a  gale.  It  was  one  of 
the  pahau  days,  and  we  fell  in  with  a  numerous  body 
of  kanakas  or  native  men,  engaged  in  erecting  a  wall 
of  adobies.  The  majority  of  them  however,  appeared 
to  have  nothing  to  do  but  to  vociferate  one  to  another 
while  indulging  themselves  in  a  favorite  and  exceedingly 
graceful  posture,  commonly  called  "squatting."  This 
is  a  common  attitude  with  the  natives  when  unemployed, 
and  I  have  seen  long  lines  of  them  drawn  up  in  the 
shade,  continuing  in  this  posture  for  hours. 

After  spending  a  short  time  at  the  seat  of  a  gentleman 
of  our  acquaintance,  in  looking  over  some  recent  num- 
bers of  "  the  Knickerbocker,"  and  of  "  the  New  York 
Mirror,"  we  turned  our  steps  towards  a  beautiful  moun- 
tain streamlet,  the  waters  of  which  tumbling  down  in 
many  a  lovely  cascade  through  a  narrow  pass  between 


AaUATIC    FEATS.  205 

high  hills,  were  received  into  a  circular  basin  eight  or 
ten  yards  in  diameter,  upon  one  side  of  which,  a  rock 
rose  abruptly  to  the  height  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet. 
Here  we  had  an  interesting  exhibition  of  the  aquatic 
performances  of  some  of  the  native  boys.  Several  of 
them,  not  more  than  eight  or  nine  years  of  age,  ascended 
to  the  top  of  this  rock,  and  Sam  Patch  like,  leaped  forward 
into  the  basin  below,  from  which  they  soon  emerged, 
and  with  loud  shouts  ran  up  to  the  top  of  the  rock  to 
resume  their  sport. 

The  natives  of  these  islands  are  almost  amphibious, 
and  they  are  to  be  seen  playing  for  hours  in  the  surf, 
apparently  unconscious  of  any  danger,  although  the 
attempt  would  be  appalling  to  a  foreigner.  A  feat  in 
swimming,  which  was  performed  a  few  days  since  off 
these  islands,  would  be  received  as  incredible  at  home, 
although  it  can  be  proved  on  the  very  best  of  evidence, 
and  is  not  doubted  in  the  least  at  Honolulu.  The  day 
we  arrived  at  Honolulu,  intelligence  had  been  received 
of  a  terrible  catastrophe  which  occurred  a  day  or  two 
previous.  A  little  schooner,  the  "  Keola,"  of  Honolulu, 
under  the  charge  of  natives,  on  her  passage  from  one 
island  to  another  of  the  group,  with  thirty  or  forty  pas- 
sengers, foundered  at  a  distance  of  twenty-Jive  miles 
from  land,  and  out  of  this  crowded  vessel,  but  four  ever 
returned  to  tell  the  tale  of  their  disaster ;  and  these — 
incredible  as  it  may  seem — reached  the  shore  by  swim- 
ming !  The  particulars  of  this  melancholy  event  are 
more  fully  mentioned  in  a  letter  from  a  missionary  at 
Lahaina  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Thurston,  and  exhibit  an 
affecting  picture  of  conjugal  tenderness  and  love,  which 
shone  pure  and  bright  amid  the  gloomy  horrors  of  that 
awful  scene.     The  letter  is  in  substance  as  follows — 

18 


206  THE    SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

Lahaina,  May  21,  1840. 
Dear  brother  Thurston, 

As  the  Kinau  ("  Kenow")  is  soon  expected  to  sail 
for  Oahu  («  Wawhoo"),  I  will  write  a  few  words.  You 
have  heard,  I  presume  of  the  loss  of  the  "  Keola,"  as  the 
report  reached  here  just  as  Brother  Green  was  embark- 
ing for  Oahu.  The  same  day  that  he  sailed,  the  persons 
who  escaped,  arrived  here  and  told  us  the  sad  particu- 
lars. You  will  be  afflicted  to  learn  that  Mauae  (Mow- 
ah-ay)  is  among  those  who  were  lost.  As  his  wife  is 
among  the  saved,  and  as  they  both  swam  about  twenty- 
Jive  miles  together  before  he  expired,  we  have  a  full  ac- 
count of  him  to  the  last. 

The  following  is  a  sketch  of  that  melancholy  occur- 
rence. The  "  Keola"  left  Lahaina  for  Kawaihae  (To- 
ay-hi,  a  settlement  upon  Hawaii)  on  Saturday  evening, 
May  9th,  in  a  leaky  condition  as  was  apparent  to  all  on 
board.  The  next  day  the  wind  was  strong,  and,  as  we 
hear,  the  stone  ballast  rolled  over  to  leeward.  It  was 
restored  to  its  proper  place,  when  two  barrels  of  molas- 
ses and  a  cask  of  water,  not  well  secured,  were  precipi- 
tated to  leeward,  in  the  rolling  of  the  vessel.  This  was 
the  immediate  cause  of  the  disaster,  although  this  would 
not  have  been  sufficient,  were  it  not  that  the  "  Keola" 
had  been  aground  Jive  times  .since  she  was  last  examin- 
ed, and  of  course  was  entirely  unfit  for  sea  without  re- 
pairing. The  forward  part  of  the  schooner  was  engulf- 
ed so  suddenly,  that  some  who  were  in  the  hold  were 
never  extricated,  but  were  carried  down  in  the  sinking 
vessel. 

The  natives  plunged  into  the  ocean  upon  seeing  that 
the  loss  of  the  vessel  was  inevitable,  while  Mauae,  who 
had  conducted  prayers  early  in  the  morning,  and  engaged 
in  religious  worship  with  the  people  during  the  fore- 


AFFECTING     INCIDENT.  207 

noon,  though  contending  with  the  ocean  waves,  called 
the  natives  around  him,  and  implored  help  from  on  high. 
Having  asked  the  assistance  of  the  Almighty  at  this 
awful  moment,  they  looked  about  to  see  what  they 
could  do  to  aid  themselves.  A  current  was  setting  to 
the  north,  so  that  none  thought  of  swimming  for  Hawaii. 
Mauae  and  his  wife,  providing  themselves  with  buckets, 
which  were  covered  over  to  exclude  the  water,  com- 
menced swimming  towards  Kahoolawe,  the  nearest  land 
to  the  northward  of  them.  They  were  accompanied  by 
three  young  men,  who  disappeared,  one  after  the  other, 
either  by  drowning  or  going  in  different  directions.  Sev- 
eral of  their  fellow  passengers  were  in  sight  on  the  Sab- 
bath, but  during  the  night  ,they  were  lost  sight  of,  and 
Mauae  and  his  wife  were  left  to  pursue  their  watery  way 
alone.  On  Monday  morning,  Kaluawahinui's  bucket 
came  to  pieces,  and  she  swam  without  anything  until 
afternoon,  when  Mauae  became  too  much  exhausted  to 
proceed,  and  they  stopped,  while  he  was  lomi-lomVd*  by 
his  affectionate  wife,  which  revived  him  so  much  that  he 
was  enabled  to  renew  his  exertions. 

They  toiled  on  for  some  time  longer  until  Kahoolawe 
was  in  full  view  before  them,  but  Mauae  began  to  sink 
under  his  extreme  exhaustion.  Kaluawahinui,  then  took 
his  bucket,  which  was  still  uninjured,  and  with  a  heroic 
devotion  that  has  never  been  surpassed,  told  him  to  grasp 
her  long  hair,  which  was  trailing  on  the  surface  of  the  wa- 
ter, and  in  this  way  she  assisted  him  for  some  distance.  But 
his  hand  soon  relaxed  its  grasp,  and  all  her  efforts  to  rouse 

*  The  process  of  lomi-lomi,  consists  in  rubbing  and  kneading  with  the 
hands  the  person  who  subjects  himself  to  the  operation,  and  it  is  extremely 
reviving  when  one  is  fatigued.  Upon  an  occasion,  when  exhausted  with  vio- 
lent exercise,  I  experienced  its  refreshing  effects,  and  pronounce  the  lomi- 
lomi  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  unparalleled  in  its  effects  in  restoring  vigor  to 
the  frame,  when  wearied, 


208  THE.SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

him  to  exertion  were  vain.  She  told  him  he  must  pray- 
to  God  for  strength  to  assist  him.  He  commenced,  but 
could  only  utter  a  few  sentences,  and  she  then  clasped 
his  arms  around  her  neck — held  them  with  one  hand, 
and  under  this  unequal  burden  toiled  on  towards  the 
shore.  When  yet  within  some  distance  of  the  shore, 
perceiving  that  Mauae  was  entirely  dead,  she  left  him 
and  reached  the  Island  about  sunset,  after  being  in  the 
water  over  thirty  hours.  Faint  with  exhaustion,  at  a 
distance  from  any  aid,  and  almost  blinded  by  her  long 
continuance  in  the  sea,  she  wandered  about  in  search  of 
food  for  the  three  following  days  ;  but  in  vain,  and  she 
must  have  perished  miserably,  were  it  not  for  the  water 
she  found  standing  in  crevices  of  the  rocks.  On  Friday 
morning,  she  found  a  number  of  water-melons,  which 
relieved  her  sufferings  ;  soon  after  which,  she  was  dis- 
covered by  some  fishermen  and  conducted  to  their  village, 
whence  she  was  brought  to  Lahaina. 

The  canoes  of  the  natives  are  little  narrow  structures, 
provided  with  an  outrigger — two  light  sticks  secured 
upon  the  gunnel  of  the  canoe,  and  projecting  from  six 
to  ten  feet,  where  they  are  crossed  by  another  stick — an 
arrangement  which  prevents  their  upsetting.  In  such 
frail  structures,  these  daring  navigators  venture  many 
miles  out  to  sea,  now  paddling  swiftly  over  the  waves  or 
stopping  every  few  minutes  to  bail  out  the  water  which 
dashes  into  their  humble  craft.  Whenever  they  set  sail, 
they  endeavor,  if  possible,  to  have  the  outrigger  to  wind- 
ward, so  that  by  extending  themselves  upon  it  outside  of 
the  canoe,  they  may  carry  sail  in  safety.  If  the  outrig- 
ger breaks,  the  canoe  becomes  unmanageable,  and  many 
instances  have  occurred  of  disastrous  consequences  re- 
sulting from  this  accident.  I  have  seen  none  of  the 
large  war  canoes  of  foftier  times,  and  the  largest  that 


COMMERCE.  209 

have  come  under  my  notice  would  not  hold  more  than 
fifteen  or  twenty  men.  I 

A  few  years  ago,  there  were  several  vessels  belonging  to 
the  Hawaiian  Government,  manned  by  natives.  Of 
these,  the  larger  were  wrecked  or  sold,  and  now  there 
are  only  one  or  two  schooners  owned  by  the  king  or 
the  chiefs.  The  king  formerly  owned  a  fine  barque 
called  the  "  Don  Quixote,"  now  lying  in  the  harbor. 
She  was  under  the  charge  of  a  former  sailing  master  of 
the  American  Navy,  and  was  conducted  in  man  of 
war  style,  carrying  an  armament  of  light  guns.  On 
account  of  the  expense  of  keeping  her  in  order,  she  was 
sold  to  Pierce  and  Brewer,  merchants  at  Honolulu.  The 
port  of  Honolulu  is  visited  by  almost  all  vessels  fre- 
quenting the  north  Pacific,  and  in  the  spring  and  fall 
seasons,  great  numbers  of  whale  ships,  principally 
American,  touch  for  recruits,  which  are  supplied  in 
abundance  and  of  every  variety. 

The  value  of  goods  imported  into  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  for  the  past  year,  probably  exceeds  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  dollars.  These  imports  consisted 
of  cotton  cloths,  prints,  chintz,  hardware,  copper,  cordage, 
canvass,  naval  stores,  flour,  bread,  wines  and  spirits, 
furniture,  soap,  iron,  paint  &c,  all  which  were  from  the 
United  States.  From  Mexico,  the  imports  were  princi- 
pally specie  and  bullion.  From  California  were  re- 
ceived sea  otter  skins,  land  furs,  bullock  hides,  soap. 
Nankeens,  blue  cottons,  teas,  silks  &c.,  were  brought 
from  China.  From  Tahiti  and  the  southern  islands 
were  received  turtle  shell,  oil,  pearl,  and  pearl  shell, 
sugar,  &c.  From  the  north  west  coast  and  Colombia 
River,  the  imports  were  lumber  of  various  kinds,  spars 
and  salmon.  From  England,  the  imports  were  broad- 
cloths and  other  goods  similar  to  those  received  from  the 

18* 


210  THE      SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

United  States.  From  Manilla,  the  manufactures  of  the 
United  States,  England  and  China  were  received,  togeth- 
er with  cigars,  hats,  cordage  &c. 

The  exports  of  native  produce  during  this  time,  have 
amounted  to  not  far  from  eighty  thousand  dollars.  These 
consisted  of  sandal  wood,  bullock  hides,  salt,  goat  skins, 
arrow  root,  provisions  of  various  kinds,  ku-kui  oil  (a 
paint  oil  made  from  the  candle  nut,)  sugar,  molasses,  and 
leaf  tobacco. 

There  are  seven  vessels  owned  at  Honolulu  by  citi- 
zens of  the  United  States — one  barque,  two  brigs  and 
four  schooners ;  and  one  ship,  one  barque  and  one  brig 
belonging  to  citizens  of  England.  The  commercial 
statistics  of  these  islands  show,  that  nearly  one  half  of 
the  imports  into  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  were  from  the 
United  States ;  and  that  the  arrivals  of  American  ships 
were  more  than  double  in  number  those  from  all  other 
foreign  countries.  By  far  the  greater  proportion  of  the 
foreign  residents  are  Americans,  and  the  American 
interests  are  decidedly  predominant  throughout  the 
Hawaiian  Islands. 

The  removal  of  a  frame  building  through  one  of  the 
streets  of  Honolulu  was  an  interesting  scene  to  me,  from 
the  novel  mode  in  which  it  was  conducted.  The  di- 
mensions of  the  building  were,  I  should  judge,  twenty 
by  twenty  five  feet.  Across  the  lower  timbers,  strong 
poles  were  firmly  lashed,  and  in  the  interstices  between 
them,  a  dense  throng  of  kanakas  were  crowded  together. 
After  a  scene  of  loud  vociferation  from  those  within  the 
building  and  the  multitude  assembled  without,  accompa- 
nied with  the  most  eloquent  gesticulations,  three  sono- 
rous cheers  were  given,  and  the  building  was  lifted  up 
upon  the  shoulders  of  those  underneath,  and  carried 
steadily  forward  some  distance  before  it  was  set  down. 


TREATMENT    OF    A    LUNATIC.  211 

The  surrounding  natives  were  all* enthusiasm,  breaking 
forth  into  loud  and  expressive  exclamations  of  wonder 
and  delight,  as  the  towering  pile  was  seen  moving  along 
with  a  complicated  machinery  of  legs  and  feet  plying 
underneath.  It  is  indeed  a  rare  thing  to  see  a  house 
taking  a  walk.  The  enterprise  was  attended  with  no 
small  degree  of  danger,  for  if  one  of  the  party  had 
stumbled  down,  serious  consequences  would  have 
resulted ;  or  the  building,  when  elevated  upon  the 
shoulders  of  the  kanakas,  might  have  fallen  from  its 
unstable  position  and  crushed  numbers  of  the  crowd. 

While  taking  a  walk  through  one  of  the  most  public 
places,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  a  crowd  of  natives 
following  with  loud  cries,  a  poor,  forlorn  boy,  who 
wandered  about  bewildered  by  the  din  of  the  vociferous 
multitude  that  pressed  upon  him.  Once  or  twice,  he 
sat  down  upon  the  ground,  but  the  throng  compelled 
him  to  remove,  and  endeavor  to  escape  from  their  vexa- 
tious clamors.  As  I  stood  wondering  at  the  cause  of  the 
great  delight  manifested  in  torturing  a  creature  appa- 
rently so  harmless,  a  woman  advanced  to  meet  him,  and 
touched  noses  with  him  as  a  token  of  recognition  ;  then 
clasping  him  in  her  arms,  and  sending  forth  a  piteous 
cry,  in  which  she  was  joined  by  the  boy,  she  extricated 
him  from  the  crowd  and  conducted  him  into  an  adjoining 
hut.  Here  they  were  received  by  a  number  of  natives, 
who  united  in  the  lamentation,  and  continued  it  without 
cessation  as  long  as  I  was  within  hearing.  The  boy,  it 
appears,  was  deranged,  which  the  natives  attributed  to 
some  superstitious  cause,  and  considered  him  as  a  legiti- 
mate subject  for  annoyance,  seeming  to  take  delight  in 
the  bewilderment  and  terrified  actions  of  the  poor  lunatic. 
There  seems  to  be  a  strong  propensity  in  human  nature 
to  ridicule  and  annoy  the  unfortunate.     Nor  is  it  con- 


212  THE  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

fined  to  a  semibarbafous  people ;  for  even  in  our  own 
country,  it  is  no  rare  sight,  to  see  a  crowd  of  noisy  boys 
following  after  some  poor,  decrepid  creature,  assailing 
him  with  abusive  language,  or  with  missiles  of  various 
kinds,  which  his  infirmities  will  not  allow  him  to  es- 
cape. We  reprobate  vices  which  we  readily  discover  in 
others,  but  of  whose  existence  among  ourselves  under  a 
modified  form,  we  are  insensible. 

It  is  customary  with  the  natives,  whenever  any  one 
dies,  for  the  relatives  of  the  deceased  to  utter  loud  cries 
and  wails  incessantly,  for  several  days  in  succession.  In 
their  notes  of  wo,  the  word  auwe  ("  oway,")  is  uttered, 
with  a  protraction  of  the  last  syllable  for  a  long  time, 
accompanied  with  numerous  doleful  demisemiquavers. 
To  wake  up  at  dead  of  night,  and  listen  to  the  solemn 
"  au-e-e-e-e"  rising  upon  the  stillness  of  that  hour,  is 
dismal  indeed.  When  one  of  the  royal  family  dies,  the 
whole  people  burst  forth  into  lamentations ;  and  as  these 
cadences  of  wo,  from  every  village  swell  upon  the 
breeze,  the  effect  is  said  to  be  almost  overpowering. 
When  friends  meet  after  a  long  separation,  they  touch 
noses,  and  each  party  commences  a  low  wail  to  testify 
his  joy  on  the  occasion.  We  also  exhibit  the  same 
incongruities;  for  tears,  which  are  the  emblems  of 
sorrow  with  us,  are  also  the  overflowings  of  affectionate 

joy. 

Among  the  foreigners  resident  at  Honolulu,  are  several 
Chinese,  the  singularity  of  whose  costume  cannot  fail  of 
attracting  one's  attention.  It  consists  of  a  large  frock 
with  ample  sleeves,  reaching  down  about  midway 
between  the  waist  and  the  knee.  For  the  lower  dress, 
they  wear  a  pair  of  pantaloons  made  very  full,  and  these 
together  with  peaked  shoes  having  thick,  wooden  soles, 
complete  their  costume.     Their  black  hair  is  braided  in 


CHINESE.  213 

a  tail,  a  yard  long,  which  usually  hangs  down  the  back 
and  vibrates  from  side  to  side,  like  a  pendulum,  as  they 
walk  through  the  streets ;  a  loss  of  these  tails,  which 
many  of  them  coil  up  around  their  heads,  would  be 
regarded  as  a  great  disgrace.  The  color  of  these  Chinese 
is  more  sallow  than  that  of  Europeans  ;  their  noses  are 
rather  flat,  the  eyes  small,  and  the  expression  of  the  fea- 
tures dull,  unlike  the  intelligence  we  expect  to  see  indi- 
cated by  the  physiognomy  of  so  ingenious  a  people. 
There  is  a  store  here,  under  the  direction  of  Chinamen, 
which  is  stocked  with  every  variety  of  goods,  partly 
Chinese  and  partly  American.  Chinese  goods,  such  as 
silks,  nankeens,  &c,  can  be  purchased  here  in  any  quan- 
tity, and  at  a  less  price  than  is  expended  for  corresponding 
articles  in  the  United  States.  Almost  all  other  articles  are 
sold  at  a  hundred  per  cent,  on  the  original  cost,  and  some 
even  at  a  much  higher  rate  than  this.  A  Bakery  has 
been  established  here  by  "  Sam  &  Mow,"  bakers  from 
Canton,  where  bread,  cakes,  and  pies,  are  manufactured 
in  every  variety,  and  of  excellent  quality.  Their  adver- 
tisement contains  a  classical  allusion  in  the  last  line, 
which  will  not  be  readily  perceived,  except  by  those  who 
are  aware  of  the  arrogance  of  the  Celestial  Empire. 

"  Good  people  all  come  near  and  buy 
Of  Sam  and  Mow  good  cake  and  pie, 
Bread  hard  or  soft,  for  land  or  sea, 
'  Celestial'  made ;  come  buy  of  we." 

The  three  most  unpleasant  things  about  Honolulu,  are 
the  dust,  the  musketoes,  and  the  fleas.  The  first  is  pe- 
culiar to  this  Island,  which,  except  in  the  valleys,  is 
sterile,  and  the  soil,  a  light  clay,  is  easily  converted  into 
dust,  and  raised  in  clouds  by  the  strong  winds.  The 
musketoes  are  foreign  importations,  I  am  told,  having 


214  THE     SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

been  brought  by  some  ship  within  a  few  years ;  they 
are  now  common  to  all  the  Islands,  and  have  become  so 
numerous  as  to  be  a  very  great  annoyance  to  all  classes. 
To  escape  being  devoured  by  them  we  are  all  obliged  to 
sleep  under  canopies  of  gauze.  As  to  the  fleas,  there  is 
no  escaping  their  tortures.  They  lie  secreted  in  the 
matting  of  the  floor,  whence  they  sally  forth  to  attack 
the  feet  and  ankles  of  the  occupant  of  the  room,  with  malig- 
nant virulence,  leaving  dark,  purple  spots  wherever  they 
introduce  their  venom.  They  accompany  one  in  his  calls 
upon  his  friends,  and  while  he  is  endeavoring  to  make  him- 
self agreeable,  they  run  around  inside  of  his  boot  and  set 
every  nerve  in  his  system  on  the  qui  vive.  A  gentle- 
man, the  other  day,  told  me,  that  he  had  frequently  been 
deterred  from  making  calls  upon  his  friends  by  their  an- 
noyance. I  have  myself  been  terribly  bitten,  and  it  ag- 
gravates the  evil  to  be  denied  the  sweets  of  revenge,  for 
they  are  so  nimble  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  catch 
them. 

*  There  are  also  at  Honolulu  numbers  of  scorpions  and 
centipedes^  which  have  been  introduced  from  the  Spanish 
main.  The  other  day,  in  taking  a  walk,  I  carried  my 
umbrella  with  me,  as  the  clouds  gave  some  indications 
of  rain.  Upon  returning,  after  an  absence  of  an  hour  or 
more,  I  raised  the  umbrella  during  a  shower  which  was 
passing  over,  and  walked  with  it  over  me  for  some  dis- 
tance, when,  upon  accidentally  casting  my  eyes  upwards, 
I  was  somewhat  startled  at  seeing  a  scorpion  crawling 
around  very  leisurely  in  the  upper  part  of  it,  especially 
when  I  reflected  that  the  umbrella  had  been  carried 
loosely,  and  that  my  hand  had  slipped  down  the  handle 
inside  of  it  several  times  during  my  walk.  He  was  not 
disturbed,  however,  until  I  reached  my  room,  when  1 
destroyed  his  ability  to  do  mischief  by  putting  him  into 


SCORPIONS  —  CENTIPEDES.  215 

a  phial  of  alcohol,  for  preservation.  The  scorpion  is  of 
a  grey  color,  and  usually  from  three  to  four  inches  in 
length.  He  moves  upon  four  pairs  of  legs,  and 
has  a  pair  of  claws  upon  each  side  of  his  head  for  seizing 
his  prey.  His  body  is  of  an  oval  form  about  one  third 
the  entire  length  of  the  animal ;  and  extending  from 
it,  is  his  formidable  tail  consisting  of  numerous  joints, 
of  so  flexible  mechanism,  that  the  tail  can  be  instanta- 
neously directed  to  any  part  of  the  animal.  Upon  the 
end  of  the  tail  is  the  sting,  an  extremely  sharp  hook, 
which  is  darted  into  the  offender  with  great  rapidity. 
These  reptiles  have  frequently  been  seen  in  the  room  I 
occupy,  and  I  never  put  on  an  article  of  dress,  without 
first  examining  it.  The  long  voyage  from  the  coast,  is 
said  to  have  impaired  the  virulence  of  their  poison  in 
some  degree,  so  that  a  sting  from  one  of  them  is  not  at- 
tended with  fatal  consequences,  although  it  is  extremely 
painful.  , 

The  centipede,  is  a  long  worm,  about  three  inches  in 
length,  usually  of  a  dark  brown  or  black  color,  of  a 
somewhat  lighter  shade  on  the  lower  side  of  his  body. 
When  provoked,  he  bites  with  a  pair  of  scissor-like  jaws, 
and  injects  the  poison  with  his  tail.  The  centipede,  as 
his  name  implies,  is  provided  with  a  vast  number  of  feet, 
numbering  in  a  specimen  which  I  examined,  not  far  from 
fifty.  The  poison  of  the  centipede  is  by  no  means  as  viru- 
lent as  that  of  the  scorpion.  I  have  seen  one  or  two 
persons  that  had  just  been  stung  by  this  reptile  ;  but  the 
pain  they  suffered  was  not  much  greater  than  one  would 
experience  from  the  sting  of  a  hornet. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

EXCURSION  TO  HAWAII. 


Brig  "  Clementine" — Romish  priests — Accommodations  on  board 
— Kailua — Governor  Adams — Style  of  his  house — Cavern — 
Natives  playing  in  the  surf — Native  church — Manufactory 
— Lodgings — Escape  from  shipwreck — Shark  catchers — To- 
wauiae — Walk  to  Waimea — Spanish  bullock  hunters — Mr. 
Lyons,  missionary — Bullock  hunting — Fate  of  Mr.  Douglas — 
Spanish  saddle — Return  to  Honolulu. 


Saturday,  July  4.  The  great  day  of  our  National 
Independence  has  been  commemorated  at  Honolulu 
with  all  the  noise,  and  with  much  of  the  spirit,  with 
which  it  is  observed  in  our  own  land.  At  sunrise,  the  ap- 
propriate number  of  guns  were  fired  from  the  fort,  at  the 
expense  of  the  American  foreign  residents.  All  parties, 
American,  English  and  French,  all  lovers  of  good  din- 
ners, embraced  this  opportunity  for  a  holiday,  and  for 
amusements  of  every  kind.  A  large  party  of  most  of  the 
American  residents  met  together  in  one  of  the  beautiful 
valleys  of  this  Island,  to  commemorate  the  illustrious 
deeds  of  their  ancestors,  and  drink  brandy  and  cham- 
pagne, and  to  do  other  patriotic  things.  The  English 
residents  had  a  dinner  by  themselves,  rejoicing,  no  doubt, 
in  an  event  which  gave  them  so  plausible  a  pretext  for 
gratifying  their  national  propensity  for  good  dinners. 
The  natives  too,  participated  in  the  rejoicings  of  the  day, 
and  followed,  in  crowds,  a  cracked  clarionet  and  two  or 
three  drums  with  as  much  enthusiasm,  as  one  of  our  own 


BRIG     "CLEMENTINE."  217 

democratic  throngs  could  in  our  country.  My  fourth  of 
July  dinner  was  enjoyed  in  a  more  quiet  manner,  in 
company  with  the  United  States  Consul  and  two  or  three 
of  the  missionaries  residing  here ;  and  we  spent  the  time 
far  more  pleasantly,  and  certainly  more  rationally,  than 
if  we  were  participating  in  the  boisterous  festivities  of 
the  other  residents. 

This  morning  I  arrived  at  Honolulu  after  an  absence 
of  about  two  weeks  in  an  excursion  to  the  island 
of  Hawaii.  Our  party,  consisting  of  two  gentlemen 
of  distinguished  attainments,  and  myself,  embarked 
in  the  "Clementine,"  a  vessel  owned  here,  on  Tues- 
day morning,  June  23d,  where  we  were  joined  by  a  Mr. 
Grimes,  a  resident  of  Honolulu.  The  "Clementine," 
though  considered  much  the  best  of  the  small  vessels 
sailing  out  of  this  port,  is  one  of  those  things  of  which 
it  maybe  said  most  decidedly  that  "  familiarity  breeds 
contempt."  She  is  one  of  those  vessels  rigged  in  de- 
fiance of  all  symmetry,  and  very  appropriately  termed 
"  Morferdites  "  (Hermaphrodites)  by  seamen.  To  do  her 
justice,  however,  she  is  a  pretty  good  sailer,  and  we  soon 
ran  out  of  the  harbor  into  the  open  ocean,  where  as  she 
rolled  and  tumbled  about,  one  or  two  of  the  passengers 
were  unable  to  restrain  their  rising  emotions  ;  among 
whom  I  subscribe  myself,  not  without  some  reluctance, 
however.  There  were  two  Roman  Catholic  priests  on 
board,  going  to  propagate  their  faith  in  the  wild  regions 
of  Hawaii.  One  of  these  was  an  Irishman,  educated  in 
France,  and  fully  versed  in  all  the  wily  arguments  and 
sophisms  of  that  church.  Many  a  warm  argument  en- 
sued between  him  and  the  other  passengers,  and  it  was 
very  amusing  to  hear  how  satisfactory  (to  himself)  he 
resolved  some  of  the  absurd  tenets  of  the  Romish  church. 
We  pressed  him  very  closely  upon  the  doctrine  of  the  Pope's 

19 


218  EXCURSION    TO    HAWAII. 

infallibility.  "  No  good  Catholic,"  said  he,  U  is  obliged  to 
believe  that  the  pope  is  infallible  in  all  things.  In  the  com- 
mon affairs  of  this  life,  in  his  private  relations,  he  may  err 
in  judgment,  like  all  other  men  ;  but  when  he  stands  forth 
as  the  head  of  the  church,  holding  the  keys  of  St.  Peter, 
to  expound  the  doctrines  of  the  church,  then  he  is  infal- 
lible." That  is,  in  trivial  matters,  the  pope  may  be 
subject  to  the  frailty  of  all  Adam's  race,  but  in  those 
solemn  questions  that  involve  the  destiny  of  the  soul,  the 
most  awful  that  ever  agitate  the  human  mind,  he  is 
endowed  with  infallibility!  By  what  process  he  had 
arrived  at  this  definite  view  of  the  powers  of  the  papal 
pontiff,  we  were  unable  to  discover. 

Our  cabin  boasted  of  five  or  six  state-rooms,  the  berths 
of  which  were  fortunately  unprovided  with  beds.  I  say 
fortunately,  as  prudence  would  have  prevented  our 
making  use  of  them,  for  reasons  that  may  suggest  them- 
selves to  the  reader,  and  we  stretched  ourselves  upon 
the  bare  boards  with  no  very  cheering  anticipations  of 
repose.  These  rooms  had  been  whitewashed ;  so  that 
when  a  man  exhibited  himself  in  the  morning,  he  looked 
as  if  he  had  been  sleeping  in  a  flour  barrel !  The  most 
forward  state  rooms  were  separated  from  the  hold  by  a 
frail  partition  of  matting,  which  gaping  open  in  several 
places,  emitted  an  odor  that  savored  very  much  of  the 
stable,  which  is  doubtless  to  be  attributed  to  a  horse 
confined  there,  whose  sonorous  nostrils  every  few  mo- 
ments, gave  indubitable  indications  of  his  close  proximity. 

After  a  passage  of  more  than  three  days,  during  which 
we  barely  escaped  being  roasted  by  the  intense  heat  of  the 
sun,  in  a  calm  off  the  island  Ranai,  we  cast  anchor  01T  Kai- 
lua,  a  little  town  upon  the  western  coast  of  Hawaii.  Here 
is  the  residence  of  Kuakini,  or  John  Adams,  Governor  of 
Hawaii,  one  of  the  highest  chiefs  of  the  nation,  and  distin- 


GOVERNOR     ADAMS.  219 

guishedin  the  history  of  these  islands  for  the  favor  he  has 
always  manifested  towards  the  missionaries.  Kailua  is 
built  close  upon  the  beach,  and  has  a  very  pretty  appear- 
ance with  its  cocoa-nut  trees  waving  over  the  Governor's 
house,  and  a  few  boa  trees  scattered  here  and  there. 
From  the  water's  edge,  the  ground  rises  with  a  rapid 
ascent  until  it  is  lost  to  the  eye  in  the  clouds. 

Upon  landing,  we  were  received  by  Dr.  Andrews, 
Physician  to  the  missionary  station  at  Kailua,  who 
conducted  us  to  his  house,  where  we  were  cordially 
welcomed  by  Mrs.  Andrews,  and  entertained  with  hospi- 
tality during  our  visit.  After  supper,  we  called  upon 
Governor  Adams.  His  house,  which  is  one  of  the  finest 
upon  the  islands,  is  situated  close  upon  the  beach,  so 
that  the  rear  of  the  yard  is  washed  by  the  ever  rolling 
billows  of  the  ocean.  A  beautiful  green  sward,  enclosed 
by  a  stone  wall,  presents  a  refreshing  sight  to  the  eye, 
while  a  grove  of  tall,  slender  cocoa-nut  trees  with  their 
pendent  branches  rising  from  it,  displays  an  elevation  of 
taste  such  as  we  rarely  expect  to  find  around  native 
residences.  The  house  is  a  large  two  story  stone  build- 
ing, with  a  small  portico  projecting  beyond  the  door, 
directly  above  which,  in  the  second  story,  are  three 
small  gothic  windows  ;  the  other  windows  are  like  those 
that  are  fitted  in  our  plain  dwelling  houses  at  home, 
which  the  house  is  itself  intended  to  resemble.  The 
roof  is  shingled  and  painted  red,  displaying  upon  the 
extremities  of  the  ridge  pole,  two  small  chimnies  placed 
there  for  ornament.  In  the  rear  of  the  house  and  ad- 
joining it,  is  a  thatched  shed,  where  the  Governor  is  to 
be  found  on  most  occasions,  and  there  are  several  houses 
upon  the  premises  built  in  native  style,  but  much  larger 
than  those  we  ordinarily  see. 

His  Excellency  we  found  seated  in  his  favorite  place. 


220  EXCURSION    TO    HAWAII. 

He  received  us  very  cordially,  making  several  enquiries 
of  each  one  of  us  in  the  English  language,  and  laughing 
very  heartily  every  few  minutes.  Kuakini  is  the  most 
corpulent  man  1  ever  saw,  and  in  this  respect,  indicates 
that  he  is  to  be  classed  among  the  chiefs  of  the  old 
school,  with  whom  obesity  was  always  indicative  of 
high  rank.  On  one  account,  this  is  an  admirable  method 
of  exhibiting  the  distinguished  in  a  nation,  as  the  insig- 
nia of  their  exalted  rank  are  inseparable  from  their 
persons.  As  to  the  Governor,  his  walk  would  remind 
one  of  Homer's  "  earth- quaking"  heroes,  if  he  had  the 
power  of  locomotion,  but  unfortunately,  he  has  for  a  long 
time  been  laboring  under  a  weakness  of  the  kness  which 
forbids  bis  moving  about  except  with  the  aid  of  crutches. 
No  wonder  that  his  nether  limbs  should  have  found 
themselves  incompetent  to  sustain  so  immense  a  structure. 
The  expression  of  his  features  is  good  humored,  though 
I  am  told,  that  his  humor  is  rather  capricious.  Those 
who  are  acquainted  with  him,  are  very  politic  in  their 
approaches  to  him  for  any  favors.  When  they  see  him 
winking  his  eyes  with  great  rapidity  and  frequency,  and 
laughing  heartily  at  everything  that  is  said,  they  know 
that  nothing  will  be  refused  them ;  but  when  he  shrugs 
up  his  shoulders  and  draws  down  his  eyebrows,  they 
are  fully  convinced  that  an  application  for  any  favors 
would  be  useless. 

Upon  the  Governor's  invitation,  we  examined  the 
various  rooms  of  his  house.  The  main  door  opens  into 
a  large  hall  upon  each  side  of  which  are  spacious  rooms 
finished  off  in  good  style.  From  the  hall  you  ascend  by 
a  flight  of  steps  defended  by  a  balustrade  into  the  second 
story,  which  is  also  finished  off  in  the  same  manner 
The  doors  and  the  other  wood  work  are  made  of  koa 
wood,  which  unites  the  elegance  of  the  curled  maple  and 


221 

the  black  walnut.  In  the  hall  is  a  large  centre  table, 
which  is  decidedly  the  most  beautiful  article  of  the  kind 
I  ever  saw.  It  is  veneered  with  ko  wood  arranged  in 
sectors  of  a  circle,  a  variety  resembling  rose  wood,  but 
more  beautiful  and  susceptible  of  a  higher  polish.  From 
the  centre  of  the  table  upon  each  of  these  sectors,  the 
wood  is  ingeniously  arranged  in  the  radii  of  a  circle,  two 
feet  in  diameter,  perhaps,  formed  of  the  knots  of  the  tree 
of  equal  size,  and  very  symmetrical.  This  table,  together 
with  that  belonging  to  the  king,  which  is  said  to  be 
somewhat  inferior  to  the  one  I  have  described,  are  the 
only  specimens  of  the  kind  upon  the  island.  They  were 
made  by  a  German  carpenter  at  Honolulu,  a  very  skilful 
artizan  in  all  kinds  of  cabinet  work.  We  were  very 
profuse  in  our  compliments,  with  which  the  Governor 
appeared  to  be  highly  gratified,  and  manifested  his 
pleasure  by  laughing  very  loudly  at  every  exclamation 
we  uttered.  Our  principal  object  in  visiting  his  Excel- 
lency, was  to  obtain  his  assistance  on  our  excursion  to 
the  volcano.  His  love  of  money  refused  to  do  homage 
to  a  scientific  expedition,  and  in  talking  over  our  proposed 
route,  he  was  so  liberal  as  to  offer  to  forward  us  in  a 
canoe  to  a  place  thirty  or  forty  miles  distant,  for  the 
slight  consideration  of  twenty-jive  dollars,  whereas  we 
knew  that  any  of  the  natives  might  easily  have  been 
engaged  for  eight  or  ten  dollars. 

The  next  day  we  visited  a  cavern,  the  mouth  of  which 
opened  close  by  the  house  of  Mr.  Thurston,  the  mission- 
ary of  this  station.  The  entrance  is  very  low,  so  that 
you  are  obliged  to  proceed  in  a  stooping  posture  for  some 
distance,  until  you  arrive  in  a  spacious  chamber,  which 
also  communicates  with  several  in  succession,  until  the 
cavern  terminates  in  a  pool  of  limpid  water,  so  clear 
that  some  of  the  party  walked  into  it  without  being 

19* 


222  EXCURSION    TO    HAWAII. 


aware  of  its  proximity.  We  explored  the  cavern  by  the 
blaze  of  torches  made  out  of  the  ku-kui,  or  candle  nut,  | 
strung  upon  slender  twigs.  The  height  of  the  loftiest 
chamber  was  about  twenty-five  feet,  and  its  breadth  ten  feet, 
perhaps,  and  the  entire  length  of  the  cavern  about  one 
thousand  three  hundred  feet.  Upon  the  rocks  was  a  soft 
white  incrustation  in  many  places,  looking  very  much 
like  lime  which  has  been  violently  acted  upon  by  fire. 
The  rocks  overhead,  seemed  at  some  former  time,  to 
have  been  in  a  state  of  fusion,  for  the  surface  of  thernwas 
very  uneven,  owing  to  the  stalactitical  form  assumed  by 
the  molten  material.  We  all  dipped  ourselves  into  the 
pool  at  the  extremity  of  the  cavern.  The  water  was 
very  cool,  and  was  somewhat  saline  to  the  taste,  which 
taken  in  connection  with  the  fact  that  it  rises  and  falls 
with  the  tide,  proves  that  it  has  some  communication 
with  the  sea.  Upon  emerging  from  the  cavern,  we 
walked  along  in  the  direction  it  pursued  under  ground, 
until  at  a  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  cavern  where 
we  supposed  it  to  terminate,  we  came  across  a  circular 
excavation,  five  or  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  ten  or  fifteen 
feet  deep,  which  was  to  be  continued  until  a  passage  was 
made  into  the  chamber  containing  the  pool  of  water 
referred  to  above.  This  labor  was  in  progress  of  execu- 
tion at  the  command  of  Governor  Kuakini,  to  give 
him  an  opportunity  of  visiting  this  cavern,  an  object  of 
interest  to  all  strangers,  but  which  his  obesity  had  for- 
bidden his  having  access  to  through  the  ordinary  passage. 
After  witnessing  this  striking  instance  of  the  zeal  of 
Governor  Kuakini  for  scientific  objects,  I  took  a  stroll 
down  to  the  sea  shore,  where  a.  party  of  natives  were  play- 
ing in  the  surf,  which  was  thundering  upon  the  beach. 
Each  of  them  had  a  surf  board,  a  smooth,  flat  board 
from  six  to  eight  feet  long,  by  twelve  to  fifteen  inches 


« 


THE    CHURCH.  223 

broad.  Upon  these,  they  plunged  forward  into  the  surf, 
diving  under  a  roller  as  it  broke  in  foam  over  them,  until 
they  arrived  where  the  rollers  were  formed,  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  from  shore  perhaps,  when  watching  a  favorable 
opportunity,  they  rose  upon  some  huge  breaker,  and 
balancing  themselves,  either  by  kneeling  upon  their 
boards  or  extending  themselves  full  length,  they  dashed 
impetuously  towards  the  shore,  guiding  themselves  with 
admirable  skill  and  apparent  unconsciousness  of  danger, 
in  their  lightning-like  courses,  while  the  bursting  combers 
broke  upon  each  side  of  them,  with  a  deafening  noise. 
In  this  way,  they  amuse  themselves  hour  after  hour,  in 
sports  which  have  too  terrific  an  aspect  for  a  foreigner  to 
attempt,  but  which  are  admirably  adapted  to  the  almost 
amphibious  character  of  the  natives. 

Towards  evening,  Dr.  Andrews  gave  us  an  invitation 
to  accompany  him  to  the  church — which  is  one  of  the 
best  native  places  of  worship  on  the  islands,  and  its 
excellence  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  liberality  of  Governor 
Adams.  It  is  built  of  dark  grey  compact  lava,  with  a 
modest  little  cupola  rising  above  its  shingled  roof,  in 
which  there  is  a  bell  to  summon  the  people  to  worship 
upon  proper  occasions.  A  row  of  glass  windows  above 
and  below,  gives  to  the  building  an  appearance  which 
would  not  be  discreditable  to  many  of  our  beautiful 
villages  in  New  England.  A  congregation  of  two  or 
three  thousand  assemble  here  for  worship,  and  in  addition 
to  the  benches  in  the  body  of  the  church,  there  are 
accommodations  provided  in  a  large  gallery  extending 
around  on  the  sides  of  the  building,  and  supported  by 
slender  columns  painted  blue.  The  pulpit  is  constructed 
of  elegant  koa  wood,  as  also  the  pannelling  of  the  gallery. 
At  the  completion  of  this  place  of  worship,  I  have  been 
told,  Governor  Kuakini  gave  imperative  commands  that 


224  EXCURSION     TO     HAWAII. 

at  the  expiration  of  a  month,  no  woman  should  be 
admitted  inside  of  the  church  who  did  not  make  her 
appearance  in  a  neat  gown,  with  a  decent  bonnet  upon 
her  head.  His  mandate  was  very  generally  complied 
with,  I  believe,  as  the  fair  sex  have  never  been  known 
to  be  dilatory  in  adopting  the  latest  fashions. 

From  the  church,  we  directed  our  steps  to  the  cotton 
manufactory  belonging  to  the  Governor.  The  cotton 
plant  thrives,  with  but  little  or  no  trouble,  upon  all  these 
islands.  A  plain  grass  house,  forty  or  fifty  feet  long, 
overshadowed  by  the  cocoa-nut  tree  and  the  pandanus 
constitute  the  manufactory.  No  cotton  gin  has  as 
yet  made  its  appearance  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  and  the 
seeds  are  extricated  from  the  cotton  by  the  tedious 
process  of  picking  them  out  by  hand.  The  wheels 
and  looms  are  of  native  workmanship,  and  the  products 
of  the  manufactory  were  of  a  superior  quality.  I  say, 
were,  for  the  manufactory  is  not  now  in  operation,  and 
the  place  gives  but  very  little  evidence  of  the  purpose  to 
which  it  was  applied,  except  one  or  two  knots  of  yarn 
hanging  up  on  a  post,  hanks  of  cotton  scattered  here  and 
there,  one  or  two  wheels  and  a  loom  or  two.  The 
discontinuance  of  the  manufactory,  is  to  last,  I  was  told, 
until  some  machinery  which  the  Governor  has  ordered, 
arrives  from  the  United  States.  One  or  two  specimens 
of  its  performance  while  in  operation,  were  exhibited  to 
us ;  they  were  similar  to  the  coarse,  chequered  fabrics 
that  are  issued  from  our  manufactories  at  home.  After 
supper,  we  made  preparations  for  returning  to  the  brig. 
The  plan  we  had  at  first  adopted,  was  to  go  around  the 
south-western  part  of  the  island  in  a  canoe,  and  disem- 
bark upon  the  coast  as  near  as  possible  to  the  volcano. 
This  route  would  be  the  most  eligible,  were  it  perfectly 
safe;  but  the  navigation  around  the  southern  point  of 


K  A  I  L  U  A  .  225 

the  island  in  so  frail  a  structure,  would  have  been  a  very 
hazardous  enterprise. 

I  have  not  yet  mentioned  the  manner  in  which  we 
passed  the  night  at  Kailua.  Mrs.  Thurston  very  kindly 
proffered  the  hospitality  of  her  house  to  us  for  the  night. 
Grimes  and  I,  accordingly,  accepted  her  invitation,  and 
made  our  way  thither  during  the  evening,  over  the 
sharp  fragments  of  lava  that  strewed  the  path  to  her 
house.  We  were  ushered  into  a  room  on  the  south  or 
west  side  of  the  house,  which  had  been  closed  up  tight 
during  the  absence  of  the  family  at  Honolulu,  that  is,  for 
more  than  a  month.  From  the  state  of  the  atmosphere 
in  the  room,  one  would  have  supposed  that  the  chamber 
had  not  been  aired  since  the  house  was  built ;  and  from 
its  situation  on  the  south  side  of  the  house,  exposed  to 
the  intense  glare  of  the  sun  from  day  to  day,  the  heat 
was  intolerable,  as  we  had  ample  proof,  for  there  we 
were,  now  on  the  bed  and  now  on  the  floor,  burning  and 
rolling  and  tossing  about  all  night  long,  Grimes'  counte- 
nance looking  as  if  he  had  just  had  a  dive  into  the 
Stygean  Lake,  which  supposition,  the  streams  of  perspi- 
ration running  down  his  red  hot  phiz,  amply  justified. 
As  to  myself,  my  experience  was  such,  that  I  consoled 
myself  afterwards  with  the  reflection,  that  if  I  had  not 
seen  the  lurid  rolling  fires  of  the  crater  of  Mauna  Roa,  I 
had  undoubtedly  been  in  their  immediate  vicinity.  No 
reflections  upon  Mrs.  Thurston's  hospitality ;  she  did  all 
she  could  to  reduce  the  temperature  of  the  room,  but  to 
no  purpose.  Grimes  and  I  however,  arrived  at  this 
decided  conclusion,  that  exotics  do  not  always  thrive  the 
best  in  hot  beds.  About  eight  o'clock,  P.  M.,  we  were 
again  upon  the  deck  of  the  Clementine,  and  Mrs.  Thurs- 
ton and  her  son  were  still  our" compagnions  du  voyage. 
Mrs.  T.,  had  taken  the  trip  to  Hawaii,  for  the  removal 


226  EXCURSION     TO     HAWAII. 

of  all  her  furniture  and  household  utensils  to  Honolulu, 
in  the  prospect  of  a  voyage  with  her  family  to  the 
United  States.  Her  departure  from  a  people  to  whom 
she  had  been  ardently  devoted  for  so  many  years,  was  a 
very  affecting  scene.  Upon  her  first  arrival  at  Kailua, 
the  poor  natives  followed  her  in  crowds  wherever  she 
went,  displaying  the  strongest  affection  for  her,  and  the 
most  sincere  grief  at  her  removal  from  them.  They 
eagerly  assisted  in  conveying  her  effects  down  to  the 
shore,  and  when  she  was  lifted  into  the  boat  to  go  on 
board  the  brig,  many  of  them  waded  into  the  water  to 
testify  their  affection,  and  a  wail  of  sorrow  followed  the 
boat  until  she  was  along  side  the  brig. 

After  waiting  for  some  time  for  the  land  breeze  to 
come  off,  it  was  thought  prudent  to  get  under  way  with 
the  light  sea  breeze  that  still  lingered,  and  endeavor  to 
beat  out  of  the  recess  in  the  land  where  we  lay  at  anchor, 
as  a  bank  of  black  clouds  was  piling  up  in  threatening 
array  to  seaward  of  us.  The  anchorage  at  Kailua  is  not 
good,  and  but  a  moderate  blow  might  have  dashed  us 
ashore  among  the  breakers.  All  sail  was  made  upon  the 
brig,  and  with  her  royal  out,  we  shot  forward  under  the 
now  freshening  breeze,  towards  a  ledge  of  frowning 
rocks,  that  run  out  into  the  sea  on  the  right  hand  side  of 
the  bay.  One  of  the  natives,  well  acquainted  with  the 
place  was  stationed  in  the  bow — "starboard  your  helm — 
luff  all  you  can,"  shouted  our  pilot,  as  our  little  craft 
was  moving  rapidly  towards  the  surf-beaten  rocks,  and 
was  now  close  up  with  them.  "Starboard— starboard  a 
leetle !"  And  starboard  it  was,  until  the  sails  were 
shivering  in  the  wind.     "  Must  we  go  about  ?  tell  us  for 

sake,"  demanded  the  captain  in  a  voice  tremulous 

with  excitement,  as  he  cast  an  anxious  eye  towards  the 
angry  clouds  to  windward  of  us,  and  then  to  the  black 


SHARK    CATCHERS.  227 

rocks  close  under  our  lee  bow.  There  was  a  moment's 
pause,  and  I  grasped  the  rail  and  braced  myself  to  await 
the  shock  of  our  striking  upon  the  rocks,  which  were 
now  frightfully  near  us — not  more  distant  apparently, 
than  three  or  four  rods,  and  we  were  beginning  to  feel 
the  heaving  motion  of  the  surf  which  seemed  ready  to 
embrace  us  in  its  resistless  folds.  "Keady  about," 
shouted  our  pilot.  "Hard  a  lee,"  instantly  responded 
the  captain,  and  the  little  craft  wheeling  around,  after  a 
slight  struggle  with  the  rollers,  made  headway  and  ran 
forward  in  the  opposite  direction.  The  danger  was  now 
over  for  the  most  part,  and  I  drew  a  long  breath,  thank- 
ful for  this  my  second  narrow  escape  from  shipwreck. 
The  clouds  that  appeared  so  threatening,  expended 
themselves  in  rain,  and  the  night  passed  away  without 
any  farther  alarm. 

One  of  the  passengers  had  been  a  resident  upon  Hawaii 
for  a  number  of  years,  and  being  very  communicative, 
he  gave  me  a  variety  of  information  respecting  the  former 
customs  of  the  people.  The  natives  of  these  islands 
subsist  almost  entirely  upon  poi  and  fish,  which  they 
prefer  to  any  kind  of  flesh.  The  capture  of  a  shark,  or 
of  any  large  fish,  is  regarded  as  a  great  achievement,  and 
is  attended  with  great  rejoicing.  In  former  times,  shark 
catching  was  often  accompanied  with  the  most  revolting 
cruelty.  The  shark  catchers  were  in  the  habit  of  way- 
laying those  who  had  unfortunately  wandered  out  of  the 
reach  of  assistance,  and  despatching  them  secreted  their 
victims  until  putrefaction  had  commenced.  Then  pack- 
ing away  parts  of  the  body  in  wicker  work,  when  the 
process  of  decomposition  had  sufficiently  advanced,  they 
started  forth  in  their  canoes,  with  the  baskets  of  corrup- 
tion towing  after  them.  The  sharks  soon  followed  the 
scent,  and  became  so  enchanted  with  the  taste  of  this 


228  EXCURSION     TO     HAWAII. 

hellish  t  eparation,as  to  allow  a  noose  to  be  slipped  over 
them  w about  any  difficulty. 

In  the  afternoon  we  came  to  anchor  off  Towaihae,  a 
small  settlement  of  a  few  houses  upon  the  beach,  about 
sixty  miles  to  the  northward  of  Kailua.  The  only 
building  of  any  importance,  is  the  stone  store  belonging 
to  Mr.  French  of  Honolulu,  which  is  the  depot  of  all 
goods  shipped  from  this  part  of  the  island,  as  well  as  for 
goods  destined  for  the  interior.  Immediately  back  of  the 
village,  there  is  a  constant  rise  of  the  land,  and  the  lofty 
summits  of  Manna  Kea  and  of  other  misty  peaks  are 
seen  rising  in  gloomy  grandeur  at  the  distance  of  twenty 
or  thirty  miles.  The  principal  object  that  strikes  the  eye 
is  a  high  mound  or  ?norai,  upon  the  left  hand  side  of  the 
village,  erected  upon  the  first  line  of  hills  back  of  the 
settlement.  It  was  built  by  Tamehameha  the  Great,  and 
consists  of  a  huge  pile  of  stones  arranged  in  a  quadrilate- 
ral form,  measuring,  I  was  told,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
two  feet  in  length,  and  sixty  in  breadth.*  Upon  the  top 
of  it,  overlooking  the  vast  expanse  of  the  ocean,  the 
priests,  in  the  former  days  of  idolatry,  were  accustomed 
to  immolate  human  victims  to  the  gods  of  the  sea. 

The  first  thing  we  attended  to,  upon  landing,  was  to 
make  immediate  preparations  for  a  walk  to  Waimea,  a 
settlement  among  the  mountains  about  fifteen  miles  from 
the  coast.  The  impossibility  of  procuring  any  accom- 
modations for  the  night  obliged  us  to  set  off  on  the  Sab- 
bath, much  against  our  wishes.  A  couple  of  natives 
were  engaged  by  my  comrades  to  transport  their  bag- 
gage, although  it  had  been  expressly  told  me  that  it  was 
to  be  left  behind,  and  forwarded  the  next  day.     When  I 

*  Ellis,  in  his  "  Polynesian  R-esearches,"  gives  much  greater  dimensions 
to  this  pile  than  those  I  have  ascribed  to  it.  He  makes  the  length  two 
hundred  and  twenty  foui  feet,  and  width  one  hundred  feet. 


WALK     TO    W  A  I  M  E  A  .  229 

requested  a  delay  of  a  few  minutes,  until  a  native  could 
be  engaged  by  me,  I  was  answered,  by  two  of  the  party 
setting  off  without  me,  which  compelled  me  to  seize  one 
or  two  necessary  articles  and  hurry  along  after  them.  It 
was  most  intolerably  hot ;  the  sun  was  blazing  down  in 
all  his  intensity,  while  scarcely  a  breath  of  wind  mitiga- 
ted his  ardor.  In  addition  to  this,  contrary  to  my 
repeated  suggestions,  the  party  were  so  impatient  to 
proceed  that  they  did  not  provide  themselves  with  any 
water,  and  were  it  not  for  a  pine  apple  we  had  with  us, 
I  should  have  suffered  extremely  from  thirst.  For  the 
first  eight  miles,  the  heat  was  very  oppressive,  and  a 
thick  woolen  jacket  together  with  a  heavy  pea-jacket 
strapped  to  my  back,  by  no  means  contributed  to  my 
comfort.  About  nine  miles  from  Towaihae,  a  cold  rain 
came  driving  down  from  the  mountains,  and  instantly 
checked  the  perspiration  that  was  flowing  from  me  in 
streams,  so  that  before  I  had  walked  more  than  a  mile 
or  two  farther,  I  was  seized  with  violent  rheumatic 
pains,  and  the  rest  of  the  journey  was  performed  with 
very  great  difficulty  and  pain.  My  companions  treated 
me  with  any  thing  but  civility  in  my  disabled  state,  and 
pushed  forward,  not  even  looking  behind  to  see  how  I 
got  along,  until  they  were  quite  out  of  sight.  I  overtook 
them  on  the  bank  of  a  mountain  streamlet  which  was 
swollen  by  the  rain,  just  as  two  of  the  party  had  succeed- 
ed in  fording  it  higher  up  the  stream.  The  other  who 
understood  the  native  language  perfectly,  had  made  an 
agreement  with  a  native  to  take  him  across  upon  his 
back,  but  when  he  was  over  on  the  other  side  he  ran  on 
to  come  up  with  the  other  gentlemen,  without  stopping 
a  moment  to  consider  that  I  stood  in  some  need  of  his 
services  as  interpreter,  to  assist  me  in  getting  across  the 
stream.     After  standing  some  time  upon  the  bank  at  a 

20 


230  EXCURSION     TO     HAWAII. 

loss  what  to  do,  a  kind  hearted  native,  one  of  the  baggage 
carriers  came  along,  and  volunteered  his  assistance  to 
help  me  over.  Grimes  had  the  kindness  to  wait  for  me 
until  I  came  up,  and  his  company  encouraged  me  to 
hurry  forward  with  more  rapidity  in  the  rain  and  gloom  ; 
for  it  was  now  growing  dark,  and  I  had  been  revolving 
in  my  mind  how  I  should  spend  the  night  in  the  native 
huts  which  were  scattered  along  the  road,  as  the  severe 
pain  I  experienced  seemed  to  forbid  any  farther  exertion. 
About  eight  o'clock,  we  came  up  with  a  collection  of 
thatched  houses,  towards  the  principal  one  of  which  we 
directed  our  steps,  which  was  a  store  belonging  to  Mr. 
French  of  Honolulu.  Here  a  novel  scene  presented 
itself  to  us.  In  front  of  the  door,  a  bright  fire  was 
blazing  in  a  cavity  in  the  earthern  floor,  displaying  in 
strong  light  the  dark  features  of  the  natives  congregated 
around  it  in  their  grotesque  attitudes.  Immediately 
back  of  these,  a  group  of  fine  looking  men,  in  a  pecu- 
liar costume,  were  leaning  against  the  counter  of  the 
store.  Some  of  them  were  Spaniards  from  California, 
and  they  were  all  attired  in  the  poncho,  an  oblong 
blanket  of  various  brilliant  colors,  having  a  hole  in  the 
middle  through  which  the  head  is  thrust.  The  panta- 
loons are  open  from  the  knee  downwards  on  the  outside, 
with  a  row  of  dashing  gilt  buttons  along  the  outside 
seam.  A  pair  of  boots  armed  with  prodigiously  long 
spurs  completed  their  costume.  They  were  bullock 
hunters,  employed  in  capturing  the  wild  bullocks  that 
roam  the  mountains,  and  had  just  returned  from  an 
expedition  of  eight  or  ten  days,  in  which  they  had  been 
very  successful. 

After  a  delicious  cup  of  tea  and  some  excellent  beef 
steaks,  vve  adjourned  to  our  place  for  spending  the  night, 
about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  distant.     Grimes  took  it 


RETURN    TO     HONOLULU.  231 

upon  himself  to  be  the  pilot,  but  after  stumbling  about 
among  the  bogs,  and  being  exposed  to  a  cold  wind  and 
rain  for  more  than  half  an  hour,  we  were  obliged  to  return 
and  get  a  native  for  our  guide.  Our  bed  consisted  of 
layers  of  thick  mats,  upon  which  the  usual  bedding  was 
spread  out.  The  beds  of  the  natives  are  nothing  more 
than  several  large  mats  laid  one  upon  the  other,  making 
a  slight  elevation  above  the  floor,  as  in  the  present 
instance.  The  chiefs,  not  unfrequently,  take  fifteen  or 
twenty  of  these  mats  for  a  bed,  the  area  of  which  is 
sometimes  ten  or  twelve  feet  square. 

The  next  day,  Mr.  Lyons,  missionary  at  Waimea, 
called  upon  me  and  invited  me  to  his  house,  a  very 
pretty  frame  building.  Not  far  off  is  the  church,  a  long 
grass  house  situated  in  the  midst  of  half  a  dozen  native 
houses.  During  our  conversation,  Mr.  Lyons  told  me 
that  the  population  of  Hawaii  is  not  far  from  forty-five 
thousand,  of  whom  about  twelve  thousand  are  members 
of  the  church.  The  number  of  churches  upon  all  these 
islands  is  not  far  from  eighteen  or  nineteen.  The  num- 
ber of  persons  admitted  into  the  church  since  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  mission  is  about  twenty-one  thousand 
three  hundred.  Of  these  there  are  about  eighteen  thou- 
sand four  hundred  still  alive,  and  in  good  standing. 
During  the  year  ending  June  eighteen  hundred  and 
forty,  there  were  four  thousand  one  hundred  and  seventy 
nine  admitted  into  the  church.  There  were  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty  seven  excommunicated  during  the  year. 
Of  these,  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  were  restored, 
leaving  one  hundred  and  one,  who  are  still  excluded. 
It  is  to  be  supposed  that  a  large  proportion  of  those  that 
are  at  present  excluded  from  communion  will  return 
with  penitence,  and  be  restored  to  the  fellowship  of  the 
church.    The  standard  of  discipline  is  high,  and  persons 


232 


EXCURSION     TO     HAWAII 


are  excommunicated  for  acts  which  would  hardly  be 
considered  obnoxious  to  church  discipline  in  our  own 
country.  The  natives  of  these  islands  as  well  as  of 
many  of  the  Pacific  Islands  are  very  much  addicted  to 
smoking  tobacco.  All  of  both  sexes,  carry  pipes  with 
short  stems,  and  a  tinder  box  for  kindling  a  fire  at  any 
moment,  which  comes  into  requisition  at  almost  every 
hour  of  the  day  and  night.  Even  at  night  they  awake 
from  their  slumbers,  and  kindling  a  spark  in  their 
tobacco  pipes,  take  three  or  four  whiffs,  which  are  blown 
down  through  the  nostrils,  then  put  up  their  pipes  and 
consign  themselves  to  sleep  again.  Some  of  the  mis- 
sionaries thinking  this  excessive  use  of  tobacco  to  be 
an  immorality,  take  particular  cognizance  of  it  in  ad- 
mitting persons  into  their  churches.  The  feather  and 
flower  leis  which  are  also  obnoxious  to  some  of  the 
missionaries,  are  brilliant  garlands  of  gay  feathers  and 
flowers,  with  which,  many  of  the  native  women  enrich 
the  head  and  neck,  and  are  very  tasteful  and  pretty  or- 
naments in  my  opinion,  for  which  they  ought  to  be  com- 
mended rather  than  censured. 

Tuesday,  June  29.  This  morning,  the  party  started 
for  the  volcano.  They  employed  eight  or  ten  natives  to 
transport  their  baggage  and  provisions,  which  consisted 
of  jerked  beef,  and  poi  prepared  in  the  solid  form. 
They  had  a  good  deal  of  difficulty  in  procuring  horses 
but  after  a  scene  of  noisy  bargaining  with  the  natives 
and  other  vexations  to  which  travellers  are  subject,  they 
started  in  grand  style,  the  natives  moving  on  in  their 
peculiar  dog-trot,  and  the  cavaliers  bringing  up  the  rear. 
I  was  too  far  disabled,  to  think  of  accompanying  them,  and 
it  was  a  bitter  disappointment  to  me  to  be  obliged  to 
abandon  an  expedition,  after  having  advanced  so  far, 
which  I  had  looked  forward  to  with  such  high  expectation. 


BULLOCK   HUNTING.  233 

After  the  party  had  left,  I  accompanied  Mr.  French 
on  a  walk  to  a  place  about  two  miles  distant,  where  the 
business  of  tanning  is  carried  on  under  the  direction  of 
Chinamen.  The  establishment  is  extensive,  and  the 
leather  exhibited  to  me  was  of  very  superior  quality  as 
far  as  I  was  capable  of  judging.  Besides  a  saddle 
maker  close  by  the  tan  works,  Mr.  French  has  a  shoe- 
maker and  carpenter  in  his  employ. 

Our  principal  object  in  taking  the  walk  was  to  witness 
the  marking  of  a  lot  of  cattle,  that  had  been  driven  down 
from  the  mountains,  not  long  since.  Great  numbers  of 
wild  bullocks  are  caught  in  the  mountains  every  year 
by  the  hunters.  The  lasso,  the  principal  instrument  in 
their  capture,  is  made  of  braided  thongs,  upon  one  end 
of  which  is  a  ring  forming  a  slip  noose,  which  is  thrown 
with  astonishing  precision  around  any  part  of  the  animal. 
Even  while  at  full  gallop  in  pursuit,  the  hunter  grasps 
his  lasso,  and  giving  it  two  or  three  twirls  around  his 
head  with  the  right  hand,  throws  it  unerringly  and 
entangles  his  victim  by  the  horns  or  limbs.  And  now, 
be  wary  for  thy  life  bold  hunter  ;  for  the  savage  animal 
is  maddened  with  terror.  See,  he  turns  upon  hi-s  pursuer, 
with  eye-balls  glaring  with  fire  and  his  frame  quivering 
with  rage.  But  the  well  trained  horse  springs  one  side, 
and  braces  himself,  while  the  unwieldy  animal  plunges 
forward,  but  is  suddenly  brought  up  by  the  lasso,  and 
falls  with  a  heavy  momentum  on  the  ground.  Again 
he  rises,  and  tears  the  ground  with  his  hoofs,  and  loudly 
roars;  then  doubly  furious,  comes  down  upon  his  pursu- 
er, but  is  again  avoided  and  again  dashed  upon  the 
ground.  Exhausted  by  repeated  shocks  like  these,  his 
fury  is  subdued  and  he  allows  himself  to  be  secured  to  a 
tame  bullock,  which  soon  removes  all  his  ferocity. 

The  bullocks  of  the  mountains  were  till  within  a  year 
20* 


234  EXCURSION   TO    HAWAII. 

or  two,  very  numerous  and  savage,  so  that  travelling 
among  the  mountains  was  attended  with  great  danger. 
For  their  capture,  a  mode  frequently  resorted  to  by  the 
hunters,  was  to  dig  deep  pits,  and  cover  them  over  with 
underbrush  and  dirt.  A  very  melancholy  casualty 
occurred  three  or  four  years  since  among  the  mountains. 
A  gentleman  named  Douglass,  of  distinguished  attain- 
ments as  a  naturalist,  was  engaged  in  a  scientific  expedi- 
tion to  the  volcano.  He  had  nearly  accomplished  the 
objects  of  his  excursion,  when  he  met  with  an  awful 
fate.  As  he  was  leaving  an  encampment  where  he  had 
spent  the  night,  he  was  particularly  cautioned  respecting 
three  bullock  pits  that  lay  along  the  path  he  was  expect- 
ing to  take.  He  mistook  the  directions  given  him,  it  is 
presumed,  for  the  first  that  was  seen  of  him  afterwards, 
was  when  he  was  discovered  by  some  natives,  in  one  of 
the  bullock  pits  under  the  feet  of  a  savage  bull,  who 
was  trampling  upon  him  and  goring  him  in  the  most 
terrrinc  manner  !  The  bull  was  very  soon  killed,  and  the 
mangled  body  of  the  unfortunate  naturalist  drawn  out, 
but  life  had  long  since  become  extinct. 

The  Spanish  saddle  is  of  very  different  construction 
from  the  saddles  of  our  country  in  general  use,  and  to 
myself,  is  far  preferable.  It  rises  very  high  before  and 
behind,  rendering  it  much  easier  for  the  rider,  especially 
in  ascending  or  descending  hills.  The  pommel  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  large  flat  knot,  termed  the  "  loggerhead," 
from  which  the  lasso  of  the  hunter  depends.  A  pair  of 
large  wooden  stirrups  with  a  broad  piece  of  leather 
before  each,  to  protect  the  feet  in  traversing  a  region 
where  the  bushes  grow  thickly  together,  are  also  pecu- 
liarities of  the  Spanish  saddle.  Their  horses  are  governed 
with  powerful  bits,  such  as  would  be  intolerable  to  our 
horses,  and  are  allowed  free  rein,  which  seemed  very 


PANISH    SADDLE 


235 


strange  to  me  who  had  always  been  accustomed  to  see 
the  equestrian  exhausting  the  strength  of  his  arms  to 
keep  his  horse  from  stumbling.  With  us,  a  pull  upon 
either  rein  teaches  the  horse  which  way  we  would  have 
him  go,  whereas  with  the  Spanish  horse,  the  reins  are 
gently  pressed  against  that  side. of  the  neck  in  the  direc- 
tion in  which  he  is  to  turn.  The  bullocks  to  be  marked 
were  driven  into  a  pen  towards  which  we  directed  our 
steps.  They  were  noble  animals,  and  had  been  tamed 
by  tying  them  singly  with  tame  cattle  for  a  time.  1  had 
here  some  slight  exhibition  of  the  skill  with  which  the 
lasso  is  thrown.  One  of  the  bullocks  was  selected  from 
the  herd,  and  in  an  instant  the  lasso  was  firmly  en- 
tangled around  his  horns  or  legs,  and  he  was  thrown 
down  and  pinioned.  The  burning  brand  was  then  ap- 
plied, and  after  sundry  bellowings  and  other  indications 
of  disapprobation,  the  poor  animal  was  released.  There 
were  not  far  from  forty  bullocks  marked  on  this  occa- 
sion, intended  for  the  "Clementine,"  in  her  trip  down  to 
Honolulu,  fellow-passengers  of  your  humble  servant. 
They  are  there  put  into  pasture,  to  be  fattened  for 
the  supply  of  ships  visiting  Honolulu  in  the  fall  season. 
About  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  1  set  off  for  my 
lodgings  with  a  young  man  who  carried  a  lantern  to 
pilot  me.  A  narrow  foot-path  leads  off  from  the  road 
which  conducts  over  a  brook  between  Mr.  French's 
store,  and  the  place  where  I  lodged.  Unfortunately,  we 
could  not  find  this  path,  and  before  long  we  plunged 
into  the  water  up  to  our  knees.  The  night  was  dark, 
and  a  drizzling  mist  almost  blinded  us ;  but  after  floun- 
dering about  for  a  long  time,  we  made  our  way  back  to 
the  store,  which  we  reached  after  much  difficulty,  almost 
exhausted  with  our  fruitless  efforts.  Waimea  is  about 
3,000  feet  in  elevation  above  the  sea,  and  is  constantly 


236  EXCURSION    TO    HAWAII. 

swept  by  the  mountain  winds  and  rains.  Although  it  is 
nearly  midsummer,  yet  the  air  is  so  cool  that  an  overcoat 
is  not  unacceptable  at  any  time.  On  Thursday  morning, 
July  2d,  I  rode  down  to  Towaihae  in  company  with  Mr. 
French,  and  in  the  afternoon  went  on  board  the 
"  Clementine."  The  brig  had  upon  deck  forty  head  of 
bullocks,  ranged  closely  together,  with  their  heads  turned 
inwards.  They  were  tied  down  by  the  horns  to  a  strong 
framework  of  spars,  so  that  there  was  no  danger  of  their 
getting  loose.  For  more  than  four  hours  we  were  ex- 
posed to  the  most  intense  heat  of  the  declining  sun, 
without  a  breath  of  wind,  but  about  eight  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  as  there  were  some  indications  of  a  breeze  off 
the  land,  we  got  under  way  and  stood  off  under  our 
topsail.  Suddenly  we  heard  the  momnkti,  coming  down 
the  mountains  and  murmuring  over  the  waters,  but  we 
anticipated  its  coming,  and  when  it  struck  us,  the  top- 
sail yard  had  been  settled  down  snugly  upon  the  cap, 
and  we  drove  before  it  without  a  sail  being  spread  until 
it  expended  itself  in  a  few  minutes.  As  we  drew  into 
the  channel  between  Hawaii  and  Ranai,  which  is  about 
forty  miles  wide,  we  were  brought  down  to  a  close 
reefed  topsail  and  balance  reef  mainsail,  with  a  heavy 
sea  running.  All  night  long  we  thumped  about,  to  the 
suffering  of  the  poor  animals  on  deck,  that  were  thrown 
down  every  few  minutes  and  were  trodden  upon  by  the 
others  until  they  could  be  relieved.  With  the  violent 
motion  of  the  vessel,  the  creaking  of  the  timbers,  and 
the  noise  made  by  the  stamping  of  the  cattle  upon  deck, 
sleep  was  out  of  the  question.  Glad  was  I  on  Saturday 
morning,  July  4th,  to  find  myself  sitting  quietly  in  my 
room  at  Honolulu. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

Farewell  to  the  north  America — whaleship  Catharine — 
Objects  of  a  consulate — Kauikeaouli,  the  king — Mission 
families  at  honolulu. 

My  excursion  to  Hawaii  dissolved  my  connection 
with  the  "  North  America ;"  for  she  sailed  from  Honolulu 
on  her  cruize  the  same  day  that  we  left  the  harbor, 
bound  to  Hawaii.  I  have  therefore  bidden  adieu  to  the 
good  old  ship  upon  whose  staunch  timbers  I  have  been 
borne  so  many  thousands  of  miles  ;  and  in  taking  fare- 
well of  my  wave-tossed  home,  I  seem  to  have  severed 
the  last  link  that  bound  me  to  my  native  land.  Farewell 
good  old  ship  ;  thou  hast  weathered  many  a  gale,  and 
carried  me  in  safety  over  the  swelling  deep,  and  my 
heart  is  drawn  towards  thy  old  timbers,  in  which  all 
that  was  to  me  of  home  and  kindred  has  for  so  long  a 
time  been  centered.  To  Captain  Richards  and  his  offi- 
cers, I  am  under  great  obligations  for  the  kind  and  res- 
pectful attention  they  have  displayed  towards  me.  Cap- 
tain R.,  is  a  man  I  shall  always  remember  with  sin- 
cere regard.  To  his  excellence  as  a  navigator  and 
sailor,  he  adds  a  suavity  of  manner  and  goodness  of 
character,  which  ensure  him  the  esteem  of  all  who 


238  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

know  him.  The  crew  always  manifested  a  regard  for 
me  which  I  shall  never  forget,  and  which  attached  me 
very  strongly  to  them.  In  conclusion,  1  shall  often  call 
to  mind  the  time  I  spent  aboard  the  "  North  America," 
as  one  of  the  happiest  periods  of  my  life. 

Wednesday,  July  8.  By  the  invitation  of  Mr. 
Brinsmade,  the  United  States'  Consul,  I  accompanied 
him  on  board  the  whaleship  "  Catharine,"  of  Nantucket, 
lying  at  anchor  off  the  harbor.  The  "  Catharine" 
touched  here  some  time  since,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Brown,  whose  adventures  at  the  Marquesas 
Islands  I  have  before  mentioned.  After  a  delay  of  a 
day,  or  two,  she  proceeded  on  her  cruise  to  the  north- 
west-ward of  these  islands,  when  the  sudden  death  of 
her  commander,  and  the  insubordination  of  her  crew, 

obliged  her  to  return  to  Honolulu.     Captain  B ,  was 

off  in  his  boat,  and  in  the  act  of  lancing  a  whale  tc 
which  he  was  "  fast,"  he  suddenly  fell  over  backwards, 
in  an  apoplectic  fit,  as  was  supposed,  and  instantly  ex- 
pired. The  command  of  the  ship  now  devolved  upon 
the  first  mate,  according  to  law,  who  is  invested  with  all 
the  authority  of  the  former  commander.  Some  of  the 
crew,  however,  imagined  that  the  death  of  Captain  Brown 
absolved  them  from  all  obligation  to  the  ship,  and  began 
to  exhibit  signs  of  a  mutinous  disposition.  The  new 
commander  fore-seeing  that  any  conduct  of  this  kind 
must  neutralize  all  the  profits  of  the  voyage,  ran  for  this 
port  to  obtain  the  assistance  of  the  American  Consul. 

Upon  arriving  on  board  the  "Catharine,"  we  were 
invited  into  the  cabin,  where  the  crew-list  was  put  into 
the  hands  of  the  Consul,  and  the  names  of  the  disaffected 
pointed  out  to  him.  The  latter  were  then  summoned 
aft  upon  the  quarter  deck,  when  the  Consul  asked  each 
one  of  them  in  turn,  "  what  reason  he  had  for  dissatis- 


OBJECTS    OF    A    CONSULATE.  239 

faction  ?"  Some  frivolous  excuse  was  given,  and  they 
looked  blank  enough,  when  the  Consul  in  a  voice  of 
authority,  assured  them  that  "  they  should  not  go  in  the 
ship,"  and  that  "  he  knew  how  to  take  care  of  such  cha- 
racters." He  then  made  a  short  address  to  the  crew, 
stating  clearly  to  them  what  the  laws  of  the  United 
States  required  in  similar  cases,  respecting  the  power  of 
the  officers,  and  the  obedience  of  the  crew — and  con- 
cluded by  asking  each  one  if  he  was  satisfied  with  the 
conditions  laid  down  to  them  ;  to  which  they  all  as- 
sented. After  the  Consul  had  advised  the  officers  of 
the  ship  to  be  determined  in  the  exercise  of  their 
authority,  and  to  rlog  the  first  man  who  manifested  the 
least  reluctance  to  obey  orders,  we  left  the  ship  having 
the  four  mutineers  in  charge.  They  were  discharged 
according  to  law,  after  remaining  under  the  orders  of 
the  Governor  in  the  fort  for  a  day  or  two,  where  they 
were  kept  upon  a  short  allowance  of  poi,  a  most  ad- 
mirable method  for  reducing  a  feverish  state  of  the 
system. 

The  establishment  of  a  Consulate  in  a  foreign  country 
is  provided,  not  only  that  we  may  have  a  representa- 
tive of  our  country,  invested  with  high  honors,  to 
watch  over  its  interests  remote  from  home,  but  also  that 
our  seamen  who  are  disabled  by  sickness  while  at  a 
distance  from  home,  may  have  a  protector  to  take  care 
of  them.  When  a  seaman  is  discharged  from  a  ship 
and  placed  upon  the  Consul's  hands,  he  is  entitled, 
according  to  law,  to  receive  decent  accommodations, 
clothes,  and  medical  assistance,  and  to  be  sent  home  as 
soon  as  possible ;  and  all  this  too,  at  the  expense  of  the 
United  States.  The  Captain  of  the  ship  upon  discharg- 
ing a  man,  pays  over  to  the  Consul,  a  sum  not  far  from, 
thirty  dollars,  I  believe,  and  gives  the  man  two  months' 


240  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

wages  in  advance,  i.  e.  from  thirty  to  sixty  dollars, 
according  to  his  rank.  Every  ship  also  bearing  the  flag 
of  the  United  States,  arriving  at  any  foreign  port,  is 
obliged  to  carry  home  a  certain  number  of  the  men 
under  the  care  of  the  Consul,  if  he  chooses  to  put  them 
on  board,  in  the  proportion  of  one  man  for  every  fifty 
tons.  These  men  are  required  to  render  all  the  assist- 
ance they  can  in  navigating  the  ship,  the  Captain  of  which 
receives  ten  dollars,  as  a  kind  of  retaining  fee,  intended 
as  the  passage  money  for  the  Consul's  men.  The  com- 
pensation is  ten  dollars,  without  respect  to  time  or  dis- 
tance, whether  it  take  one  month  or  eight  to  reach  home, 
whether  for  three  hundred  miles  or  for  three  thousand, 
a  law,  very  unequal  in  its  application. 

Tuesday,  July  21.  Yesterday  afternoon,  the  town  was 
thrown  into  commotion,  by  the  cry  of  "  sail  ho  !"  echoed 
from  mouth  to  mouth.  The  natives  have  become  ac- 
quainted with  our  mode  of  indicating  that  a  ship  is  in 
sight,  and  the  alarm  is  echoed  in  every  direction  like  a 
cry  of  fire,  whenever  a  vessel  is  seen  coming  in  from 
sea,  and  sometimes  when  there  is  none  to  be  seen,  from 
a  praiseworthy  zeal  to  interrupt  the  monotony  of  the 
town,  and  to  rouse  up  the  foreigners  for  a  few  minutes. 
The  sail  in  sight  was  made  out  to  be  a  man-of-war,  and 
was  pronounced  to  be  one  of  the  Exploring  Expedition, 
so  long  and  anxiously  expected,  until,  as  she  came  to 
anchor  off  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  the  tri-colored  en- 
sign was  run  up  to  her  mizen-peak.  Then  commenced 
the  firing  of  salutes,  the  etiquette  always  observed  re- 
quiring a  discharge  of  twenty-one  guns  from  the  stran- 
ger, as  a  compliment  to  the  flag  of  the  nation  she  visits, 
which  is  instantly  returned  with  an  equal  number  of 
guns  from  a  fortification  or  national  vessel. 

By  the  invitation  of  Mr.  Brinsmade,  I  accompanied 


OBJECTS    OP     A     CONSULATE.  241 

him  in  a  call  of  ceremony  upon  the  commander  of  the 
French  Corvette  "  La  Danaide."  It  is  customary  for  all 
the  consuls  to  call  upon  the  commander  of  a  vessel  of 
war  aboard  his  ship,  out  of  respect  to  the  flag  under 
which  he  sails,  and  any  omission  of  this  ceremony  is 
looked  upon  as  a  direct  affront.  The  consul,  dressed 
in  full  uniform,  and  myself,  took  our  seats  in  a  small 
boat  upon  the  United  States  flag,  and  steered  out  of  the 
harbor.  On  our  way,  we  passed  one  of  the  Corvette's 
boats,  with  several  officers  on  board,  who  perceiving  the 
Consul's  uniform,  saluted  us  by  raising  their  hats  and 
bowing  very  politely.  The  shrill  whistle  of  the  boat- 
swain announced  our  arrival  alongside  the  "  Danaide," 
and  after  scrambling  up  the  side  to  the  extreme  danger 
of  crushing  our  nether  limbs  between  the  ship  and  the 
boat,  we  mounted  upon  deck,  the  Consul  preceding.  We 
were  introduced  to  Capt.  Rosamel  by  M.  Dudoit,  the 
French  Consul,  who  acted  as  our  interpreter,  a  most  for- 
tunate thing  for  us,  as  otherwise  our  visit  must  have 
been  conducted  in  dumb  show.  The  Corvette  rolled 
most  unmercifully,  and  as  we  came  alongside  it  looked 
extremely  hazardous  to  attempt  going  aboard  at  all. 
When  I  set  foot  upon  deck,  I  made  a  very  awkward 
figure  of  it,  especially  upon  being  introduced  to  one  of 
the  officers,  when  I  was  rolled  down  to  starboard,  and 
brought  up  against  one  of  the  guns.  We  were  invited 
into  the  cabin,  when  after  a  short  palaver,  interspersed 
with  compliments,  claret  wine,  &c,  we  took  our  leave, 
the  Captain  observing,  among  other  things,  that  he  could 
never  make  wine  keep  aboard  his  ship  for  any  great  length 
of  time,  which,  however,  judging  from  his  appearance, 
was  not  because  age  exhausted  its  virtues. 

In  leaving  a  ship   of  war,  the   highest   in   rank  is 
the   last  to   enter  the  boat,  and  as  I  considered   Mr. 

31 


242  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

Brinsmade  my  superior,  I  preceded  him  over  the 
side  of  the  ship.  We  now  shot  ahead  of  the  ship 
about  twenty  yards,  when  the  consular  salute  of  seven 
guns  was  fired  from  the  Corvette,  which  the  Consul  re- 
ceived with  hat  doffed  and  resting  upon  his  oars.  Thus 
ended  the  ceremony,  which  the  commander  of  the  ship 
is  bound  to  return  in  a  day  or  two,  according  to  the  es- 
tablished etiquette. 

Several  days  since,  I  had  the  honor  of  an  introduction 
to  His  Majesty,  Kauikeaouli,  king  of  the  Hawaiian 
islands.  He  is  a  fine  looking  man,  twenty  seven  or 
twenty  eight  years  of  age,  of  a  light  olive  color,  with  an 
expressive  face  and  intelligent  eye,  and  the  contour  of 
his  features  well  rounded.  He  is  about  the  mediu 
height,  and  is  well  formed  and  muscular.  He  mad 
several  enquiries  of  Rev.  Mr.  Richards,  who  introduce 
me,  respecting  my  origin,  and  the  reasons  of  my  visitin 
the  island  ;  but  he  speaks  but  very  little  English  and  of 
course  all  my  remarks  were  addressed  to  him  through  an 
interpreter.  I  have  met  the  King  several  times  since, 
and  once  at  a  small  party  at  the  house  of  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Bingham.  His  dignified  bearing  insures  him  the  respect 
of  all  the  foreign  residents,  although  he  always  appeal's 
without  any  attempt  at  parade,  in  a  short  white  jacket 
and  white  pantaloons,  except  when  compelled  in  visits 
of  ceremony  to  wear  his  uniform.  So  much  attached  is 
he  to  this  light  and  cool  dress,  that  while  making  an 
official  visit  on  board  a  ship  of  war  in  full  uniform,  im- 
mediately after  the  ceremony  of  introduction,  he  has  been 
known  to  take  off  his  heavy  cumbersome  coat,  and  sub- 
stitute a  short  jacket,  borne  by  an  attendant.  His  judg- 
ment respecting  ships  and  nautical  evolutions  is  said  to 
be  very  good.  The  name  of  the  king  "  Kauikeaouli," 
like  that  of  most  of  his  countrymen,  has  a  significant 


MISSION     FAMILIES.  243 

meaning  attached  to  it,  and  the  literal  translation  of  it 
is  «  hanging  in  the  bine  sky."  The  native  that  takes 
care  of  my  room  bears  the  name  of  "  Pahu,"  which  sig- 
nifies a  "  barrel "  or  "  box,"  and  I  could  easily  mention 
the  names  of  many  others  that  have  a  very  ludicrous  idea 
attached  to  them. 

1  have  delayed  making  any  particular  mention  of  the 
missionaries  I  have  met  with  at  Honolulu  and  elsewhere, 
with  the  intention  of  speaking  of  them  collectively,  when 
I  should  be  on  the  eve  of  leaving  these  islands.  There 
are  about  forty  mission  families  located  upon  the  Ha- 
waiian islands,  eight  of  whom  are  stationed  at  Honolulu, 
the  head  quarters  of  missionary  operations.  All  these 
families,  with  one  exception,  reside  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  town,  constituting  a  very  delightful  neighborhood. 
Once  a  year  the  missionaries  hold  a  convention  at  Hon- 
olulu, to  make  reports  of  their  respective  parishes  and  to 
consult  about  the  best  means  of  benefitting  those  under 
their  charge.  This  anniversary  was  held  during  the 
early  part  of  my  visit  to  Honolulu,  and  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  becoming  acquainted  with  many  of  them,  whom  I 
should  not  have  seen  at  any  other  time  in  the  year. 
They  are  all  very  worthy  men,  actuated  by  the  most 
ardent  piety,  and  devoting  all  their  powers  to  the  benefit 
of  those  among  whom  their  lot  is  cast.  I  have  heard 
several  of  them  preach  in  the  seamen's  chapel,  but  can- 
not speak  in  the  most  exalted  terms  of  their  perform- 
ances. Some  of  them  did  not  appear  to  have  prepared 
themselves  sufficiently  for  the  occasion,  and  perhaps  their 
numerous  cares  would  not  admit  of  it.  There  ought  to 
be  no  inferiority  in  the  performance,  on  account  of  the 
supposed  character  of  the  audience,  which  consists,  in  a 
large  proportion,  of  seamen ;  for  sailors  are  shrewd  in 
their  estimate  of  a  preacher's  abilities,  and  are  apt  to 


244  sandwich    islands. 

seize  with  avidity,  upon  any  peculiarity  which  may 
afford  them  a  subject  for  mirth.  The  chaplains  sent  out 
to  foreign  ports  by  the  "Seamen's  Friend  Society," 
should  be  endowed  with  no  ordinary  degree  of  sagacity 
and  discretion,  any  want  of  which,  will  be  readily  dis- 
covered by  their  hearers,  who  are  thereby  taught  to 
cherish  more  firmly  than  ever,  a  saying  very  common 
among  them,  that  «  missionaries  are  mere  know-nothings, 
sent  away  from  home,  because  they  cannot  get  into  any 
other  business."  These  remarks  are  not  dictated  by  a 
spirit  of  unkindness,  but  from  a  conviction,  that  Bethel 
chaplains,  ought  not  to  infer  from  the  humble  character 
of  their  audience,  that  they  are  incapable  of  discerning 
between  good  and  bad  preaching.  The  missionaries  at 
Honolulu  have  treated  me  very  kindly  and  invited  me 
frequently  to  their  houses.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bingham  hav 
taken  an  affectionate  interest  in  me,  which  has  impresse 
me  very  strongly  with  a  sense  of  their  disinterested 
goodness. 


d 


CHAPTER  XX. 

SANDWICH  ISLANDS 


Geography — Fertility — Climate — Ancient  tabu  system — Idol- 
atry— Oppression  of  the  chiefs — Arrival  of  missionaries — 
Discouragements — Success — Churches  at  Honolulu — Schools 
— Hawaiian  Institute — Supremacy  of  law — Depopulation. 


Many  persons  visiting  these  islands,  and  other  places 
where  missionaries  have  been  established,  go  away  with 
less  favorable  opinions  of  what  has  been  accomplished 
by  these  devoted  men,  than  they  ought  to  entertain,  but 
it  arises  from  a  want  of  a  comprehensive  view  of  the  past 
and  the  present.  They  come  from  a  country  where  a 
highly  enlightened  state  of  public  sentiment  prevails,  and 
has  been  perpetuated  from  generation  to  generation ; 
where  the  energies  of  the  mind  are  brought  into  activity, 
and  subjected  to  culture,  from  the  first  developement  of 
the  faculties ;  and  without  reflecting  that  the  mission- 
aries have  been  obliged  to  teach  the  whole  people  before 
them  the  very  elements  of  civilization,  and  to  fix  their 
wandering  minds  and  accustom  them  to  think  upon  the 
simplest  truths,  they  are  somewhat  disappointed  in  their 
expectations  of  finding  them  a  civilized  and  intelligent 
people.  With  the  rude  islanders  of  the  Pacific,  where 
the  gospel  has  not  been  introduced,  there  is  an  inertness 
of  mind  verging  towards  idiocy,  the  effect  of  long  con- 
tinued devotion  to  degrading  pleasures,  accompanied 
with  a  vacuity  of  thought  upon   every  subject.     Tell 

21* 


246  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

them  of  a  God,  and  they  associate  his  holy  attributes 
with  the  disgusting  history  of  their  fabled  deities.  Tell 
them  of  religion,  and  their  dark  minds  shudder  at  the 
bloody  rites  of  human  sacrifice,  which  accompany  their 
own  superstitious  frenzies.  It  is  almost  impossible  for 
one  from  our  own  favored  country,  to  conceive  of  the 
depth  of  degradation  and  pollution,  and  the  revolting 
cruelty  that  pervaded  the  character  of  the  Polynesian 
Islanders  in  every  aspect  of  life,  before  they  were  visited 
by  the  heralds  of  salvation  ;  and  no  one  can  know  it  in 
its  fullest  extent,  except  those  whose  early  residence  in 
these  islands  was  an  introduction  to  heathenism  in  all  its 
horrors.  No  one  however,  ought  to  leave  these  islands, 
without  informing  himself  respecting  the  former  condi- 
tion of  the  natives  previous  to  the  introduction  of  Chris- 
tianity, in  order  that  he  may  contrast  it  with  their 
present  condition,  else  he  will  have  but  a  faint  con- 
ception of  the  immense  good  that  has  been  accomplished 
by  the  missionaries,  which  is  not  so  apparent  at  first 
view  from  the  difficulty  of  conceiving  of  the  extreme 
degradation  of  the  natives  in  their  state  of  idolatry. 
And  this  is  the  reason  why  the  accounts  of  the  mission- 
aries seem  to  many  to  be  too  enthusiastical.  All  moral 
excellence  is  judged  of  comparatively,  and  the  reports  of 
the  missionaries  written  upon  this  principle,  often 
appear  to  be  too  highly  colored  to  those  who  are  at  best 
but  partially  acquainted  with  things  as  they  exist  even 
at  the  present  time. 

A  slight  sketch  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  will  enable 
us  to  form  a  more  correct  view  of  what  has  been  done 
by  the  missionaries,  than  an  elaborate  detail  could  do, 
and  will  give  me  an  opportunity  of  stating  several  facts, 
which  I  have  as  yet  omitted  to  mention. 

The  Hawaiian  Islands  were  discovered  by  Capt.  Cook 


CLIMATE.  247 

in  1778,  and  were  by  him  called  the  "  Sandwich  Islands," 
after  the  Earl  of  Sandwich,  by  which  designation  they 
are  generally  known.  The  missionaries  upon  these 
islands,  however,  have  denominated  them  the  "  Hawaiian 
Islands,"  a  title  which  I  have  adopted,  as  has  been  seen 
in  what  precedes.  They  are  ten  in  number,  viz.,  Hawaii, 
Maui,  Torhoorawe,  Molokini,  Ranai,  Molokai,  Oahu, 
Kauai,  Niihau,  and  Taura,  and  are  situated  on  the  bor- 
ders of  the  northern  tropic,  between  the  parallels  18°  54', 
23°  08',  and  the  meridians  154°  54',  161°  45'  west. 
These  islands  are  of  a  volcanic  nature,  rising  in  high 
craggy  mountains,  whose  sterile  peaks  give  an  aspect  of 
barrenness  to  the  island  far  different  from  that  of  the 
lovely  valleys  lying  at  their  base.  Two  of  them,  Maui 
and  Kauai,  are  highly  fertile,  but  more  particularly  the 
latter,  upon  which  besides  large  crops  of  sugar  cane,  the 
morns  multicaulis  is  cultivated  in  great  quantities. 
Maui  and  Kauai  are  admirably  adapted  to  the  culture  of 
this  plant,  and  to  the  rearing  of  cocooneries ;  especially 
the  latter,  in  which  very  ample  funds  have  been  invested 
in  leasing  lands  of  the  government,  and  preparing  them 
for  carrying  on  the  silk  business  upon  a  very  extensive 
scale.  There  are  three  kinds  of  worms,  the  American, 
the  Chinese,  and  an  intermixture  of  these  two,  which 
produces  silk  of  an  excellent  quality.  The  proprietors 
are  novices  in  the  business,  and  were  some  one  thor- 
oughly acquainted  with  the  silk  growing  business,  to 
take  up  his  residence  upon  that  island,  he  could  com- 
mand a  very  ample  support.  The  business  will  be  con- 
fined to  reeling  the  raw  material  which  will  be  exported 
for  manufacturing,  and  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when 
an  immense  quantity  of  raw  silk  will  be  shipped  from 
these  islands  to  foreign  countries.  The  climate  of  these 
islands  is  most  delightful :  indeed,  the  purity  and  equable 


248  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

temperature  of  the  atmosphere  are  not  surpassed  any 
where  in  the  world.  The  thermometer  ranges  between 
65°  and  86°,  for  the  entire  year,  though  it  very  rarely 
deviates  from  73°,  and  the  mercury  seems,  as  it  were,  to 
stagnate  at  that  point.  Situated  within  the  region  of  the 
trade ^winds,  a  fine  cool  breeze  blows  over  them  every 
day.  The  nights  are  cool,  and  a  refreshing  sleep 
obviates  that  extreme  languor  to  which  those  residing  in 
tropical  climates  are  subject.  There  is  but  little  dew  at 
night,  and  the  skies  are  rarely  overcast  with  clouds. 
During  the  winter  months,  the  rainy  season,  as  it  is 
called  prevails.  It  is  not  to  be  supposed,  however,  that 
the  rain  falls  incessantly  ;  for  during  the  winter  months 
the  rain  comes  in  frequent  showers,  one  or  two  a  day 
perhaps,  but  not  in  a  continued  fall.  These  squalls  are 
formed  upon  the  mountains  over  which  they  hang  in 
dense,  black  clouds,  which  slowly  descending  the  moun- 
tains' side,  discharge  themselves  into  the  valleys  below. 
The  drought  of  the  summer  season  requires  irrigation 
by  artificial  means.  In  the  valleys,  the  mountain  stream- 
lets are  diverted  into  a  thousand  little  canals,  but  the 
gardens  of  Honolulu  are  provided  with  large  windmills, 
by  the  revolutions  of  which,  water  is  pumped  up  from 
the  wells  and  distributed  in  every  direction. 

The  Hawaiian  Islands  are  very  favorably  situated  for 
Astronomical  observations;  for  the  most  brilliant  con- 
stellations of  both  hemispheres  are  here  seen  in  all  their 
splendor. 

Let  us  now  turn  to  the  moral  aspect  of  the  nation. 
Among  the  varied  horrors  connected  with  the  former 
system  of  idolatry,  there  is  none  of  so  revolting  a  charac- 
ter, or  which  so  clearly  exhibits  the  extreme  degradation 
of  the  people,  as  the  tabu  system,  a  consecration  of  some 
particular  object  by  the  priests  and  the  chiefs,  the  viola- 


ANCIENT     TABU     SYSTEM.  249 

tion  of  which  subjected  the  offender  to  death.  This 
institution  is  thus  described.  "One  feature  of  the 
ancient  system  was  found  in  the  oppressive  tabus.  The 
restrictions  of  chiefs  and  priests  were  like  the  poisoned 
tooth  of  a  reptile.  If  the  shadow  of  a  common  man  fell 
upon  a  chief,  it  was  death  ;  if  he  put  on  a  kapa  (mantle) 
or  inalo  (girdle)  of  a  chief,  it  was  death ;  if  he  went  into 
the  chief's  yard  it  was  death;  if  he  wore  the  chief's 
consecrated  mat,  it  was  death;  if  he  went  upon  the 
house  of  a  chief,  it  was  death.  If  a  man  was  found, 
standing  on  those  occasions,  when  he  should  prostrate 
himself,  viz.,  when  the  king's  bathing  water,  or  his  kapa 
or  his  malo  were  carried  along,  it  was  death.  So  too,  if 
he  continued  standing  at  the  mention  of  the  king's  name 
in  song,  it  was  death.  If  a  man  walked  in  the  shade  of 
the  house  of  a  chief  with  his  head  besmeared  with  clay, 
or  with  a  wreath  around  it,  or  with  his  head  wet,  or 
wearing  a  Jcihei  (mantle,)  it  was  death.  There  were 
many  other  offences  of  the  people  which  were  made 
capital  by  the  chiefs,  who  magnified  and  exalted  them- 
selves over  their  subjects.  These  are  some  of  the  cruel- 
ties attributable  to  the  priests.  When  one  of  them 
deemed  it  desirable  that  a  temple  should  be  built,  he 
applied  to  the  king,  who  commanded  the  natives  to 
construct  it.  When  it  was  completed,  and  a  log  of  wood 
obtained  for  a  god,  a  man  was  sacrificed  to  impart 
power  to  the  wooden  deity.  When  sacrifices  were 
offered,  men  were  slain  and  laid  upon  the  altar  with 
swine  that  had  *been  immolated ;  if  a  fish  proper  for 
offering  could  not  be  obtained,  a  man  was  sacrificed  in 
his  stead ;  and  human  victims  were  required  on  other 
occasions.  If  a  man  committed  a  crime,  he  suffered 
death ;  if  he  was  irreligious,  he  suffered  death ;  if  he 
indulged  in  connubial  pleasures  on  a  tabu  day,  he  paid 


*^50  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

the  same  penalty;  if  he  made  a  noise  v/hile  prayers 
were  saying,  he  met  a  like  fate.  If  a  woman  ate  pork, 
cocoa-nuts,  bananas,  a  certain  kind  of  fish,  or  lobster,  it 
was  death.  So  too,  was  it  death  to  be  found  in  a  canoe 
on  a  tabu  day ;  and  there  were  many  other  prohibitions 
of  the  priests. 

The  priesthood  was  very  oppressive  to  the  people.  If 
a  temple  was  to  be  built,  they  had  the  stones  to  collect 
for  the  walls,  and  the  timber  and  posts  to  put  up.  They 
had  also  the  thatching  to  do ;  and  a  levy  for  sustaining 
the  service  was  made  on  them  of  every  variety  of  food. 
The  time  would  fail  to  tell  all  the  oppressions  the  people 
suffered  from  this  quarter.  The  king  and  priests  were 
much  alike,  and  united  together,  they  were  the  nation's 
main  burden. 

Another  grievance,  was  the  tabu  which  existed  on 
account  of  the  idols.  The  idols  of  the  chiefs  and  of  the 
common  people  were  of  wood.  If  one  made  his  idol  of 
an  apple  tree,  the  apple  tree  was  afterwards  tabu  to  him. 
So  of  all  the  trees  of  which  idols  were  made.  So  too,  of 
articles  of  food.  If  one  employed  taro  as  the  object  of 
his  idolatry,  to  him  the  taro  became  sacred,  and  might 
not  be  eaten  by  him  with  impunity.  Thus  it  was  of 
every  object  of  which  a  god  was  made.  Birds  were 
objects  of  worship.  If  a  hen,  the  hen  was  to  him  sacred, 
and  in  a  similar  manner  respecting  all  the  birds  which 
were  deified.  Beasts  were  objects  of  worship,  and  if  a 
hog  was  chosen  as  the  object  of  devotion,  he  was  sacred 
to  him  who  chose  him  for  his  god.  Stones  were  objects 
of  worship,  and  tabu,  and  for  the  worshippers  of  them 
to  sit  upon  one  of  them  would  be  regarded  as  a  gross 
sacrilege.  Fish  were  idolized  ;  if  one  adopted  the  shark 
as  his  god,  to  him  the  shark  was  sacred.  So  of  all 
things  in  heaven  and  earth  j  and  even  the  bones  of  the 


ARRIVAL     OF    MISSIONARIES.  251 

departed  were  transformed  into  objects  of  worship. 
Hence  the  vexatious  intricacy  with  which  the  tabu  was 
overburdened,  which  rendered  it  so  extremely  oppressive 
to  the  nation. 

Among  the  tabus,  the  arbitrary  regulations  about 
eating  were  peculiarly  burdensome  both  to  the  men  and 
women.  A  man,  upon  his  marriage,  was  obliged  to 
build  an  eating  house  for  himself;  another  for  his  god  ; 
another  for  his  sleeping  apartment;  an  apartment  for 
his  wife  to  eat  in,  was  then  built,  and  also  a  place  in 
which  to  beat  kapa.  In  addition  to  this,  he  prepared 
the  taro  and  baked  it  for  his  wife  and  himself  in  distinct 
ovens,  and  then  converted  the  separate  portions  into  poi, 
which  was  always  eaten  in  their  respective  eating  houses. 
They  never  dared  to  eat  together,  lest  they  should  incur 
the  penalty  of  death  for  having  violated  the  tabic.  This 
was  the  tabu,  which,  on  account  of  its  severity  was  first 
exploded,  and  with  it  the  whole  system  was  abandoned. 

Another  point  in  their  past  history  worthy  of  notice,  is 
this,  that  the  common  people  were  burdened  with  con- 
stant toil  for  their  chiefs,  and  were  severely  taxed  in 
various  articles  of  property,  which  were  also  taken  away 
from  them  for  the  chiefs  without  the  slightest  remunera- 
tion from  their  oppressive  masters."  There  were  other 
crimes  of  the  most  atrocious  character  prevalent  among 
them.  It  is  indeed  difficult  to  conceive  of  any  thing  on 
the  black  catalogue  of  guilt  that  did  not  find  its  counter- 
part'in  the  character  of  this  people.   s 

An  anecdote  told  by  one  of  the  missionaries,  very  for- 
cibly illustrates  the  tyrannical  bearing  of  the  chiefs 
towards  the  common  people.  "A  poor  man  "  said  he, 
u  by  some  means  obtained  possession  of  a  pig,  when  too 
small  to  make  a  meal  for  his  family.  He  secreted  it  at 
a  distance  from  his  house,  and  fed  it,  until  it  had  grown 


252  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

to  a  size  sufficient  to  afford  the  desired  repast.  It  was 
then  killed  and  put  into  an  oven,  with  the  same  precau- 
tion of  secrecy ;  but  when  almost  prepared  for  appetites 
whetted  by  long  anticipation  to  an  exquisite  keenness,  a 
caterer  of  the  royal  household  unhappily  came  near,  and 
attracted  to  the  spot  by  the  savory  fumes  of  the  baking 
pile,  deliberately  took  a  seat  until  the  animal  was  cooked, 
and  then  bore  off  the  promised  banquet  without  ceremony 
or  apology." 

But  my  limits  will  not  allow  me  to  pursue  this  subject 
any  farther,  and  I  turn  to  a  more  interesting  feature  of 
Hawaiian  history,  the  introduction  of  the  Christian 
religion.  On  the  23d.  of  October,  1819,  the  first  band  of 
missionaries  destined  for  these  islands,  sailed  from  Boston, 
and  after  a  tedious  voyage  of  six  months,  arrived  in  April 
1820.  Meanwhile  the  providence  of  God  had  been  pre- 
paring the  way  for  them  to  introduce  the  religion  of  the 
cross;  and  the  destruction  of  the  ancient  system  of  idol- 
atry and  that  of  the  tabu,  so  intimately  connected  with 
it,  were  the  first  welcome  tidings  that  gladdened  their 
hearts  after  their  long  voyage,  and  upon  their  arrival  at 
these  remote  and  uncivilized  islands  of  the  Pacific. 
These  wonderful  events  seemed  to  them  a  miraculous 
interposition  of  divine  providence,  in  removing  the  most 
formidable  impediments  to  the  successful  introduction  of 
the  holy  religion  of  the  cross  among  a  people,  who  had 
professedly  abandoned  the  degrading  institutions  of  their 
idol  worship,  and  begun  to  make  some  enquiries  after 
the  services  and  worship  of  the  "unknown  God."  It 
was  at  this  crisis  that  the  missionaries  arrived :  but  if 
they  had  never  come,  the  condition  of  this  people  would 
have  been  but  little  improved.  They  would  have 
exchanged  polytheism  for  atheism,  but  have  retained 
some  of  the  worst  features  of  the  former  system.     We 


ARRIVAL     OF    MISSIONARIES.  253 

can  easily  see  the  nature  of  the  influence  exerted  by  the 
foreigners  upon  the  nation,  from  the  strenuous  opposition 
they  made  to  the  reception  of  the  missionaries,  whose 
instructions  they  had  good  reason  to  fear  would  subvert 
their  selfish  plans.  From  the  misrepresentations  of 
these  men,  the  chiefs  were  suspicious  of  the  designs  of 
the  missionaries,  and  it  was  not  until  eight  or  ten  days 
after  their  arrival,  that  they  were  allowed  to  land ;  and 
then,  it  was  with  the  express  stipulation  that  at  the  end 
of  a  year  they  should  leave  the  islands,  if  their  conduct 
was  not  satisfactory  to  the  chiefs.  At  the  expiration  of 
this  period,  so  sensible  had  the  nation  become  of  the 
benevolent  intentions  of  the  missionaries,  that  they  were 
glad  to  have  them  remain  longer.  But  the  missionaries 
had  many  disheartening  difficulties  to  contend  with. 
They  took  up  their  home  in  a  land,  where  but  a  few 
years  previous,  human  victims  were  immolated  upon  the 
altars  of  blood  thirsty  idols;  and  infants,  murdered  by 
their  own  mothers,  were  dashed  into  the  roaring  surf; 
where  but  a  few  years  before,  a  song  of  savage  triumph 
might  be  heard,  as  a  trembling  victim  was  to  be  roasted 
to  satisfy  their  cannibal  appetites.  Here  might  have  been 
witnessed  the  most  disgusting  scenes  of  licentiousness, 
and  woman  found  degraded  to  a  level  with  the  lowest 
animals,  and  allowed  to  exist  but  as  subservient  to  their 
vilest  passions.  What  a  picture  of  wretchedness  is 
exhibited  by  the  history  of  those  times,  every  feature  of 
which  is  so  revolting !  The  tabu  had  been  abolished, 
and  the  worship  of  idols  had  been  abandoned,  it  is  true; 
but  their  demoralizing  effects  still  remained.  The  mis- 
sionary with  untiring  zeal  illumined  their  darkened 
minds  with  the  contemplation  of  truths,  to  which  their 
minds  hitherto  accustomed  to  sensual  and  grovelling 
ideas  were  utter  strangers.     He  devoted  himself  to  the 

22 


254  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

study  of  the  language,  and  reduced  it  to  a  written  form. 
Schools  were  established,  where  religious  truth  and  the 
elements  of  knowledge  were  with  affectionate  solicitude 
instilled  into  their  minds.     In  1822,  the  printing  press 
was  first  put  into  operation,  and  since  then  a  great  variety 
of  publications  of  a  religious  and  moral  character  have 
been  issued,  as  will  be  seen  by  consulting  the  statistics 
of  the   Hawaiian   Mission.      Within    a  few  years,  the 
entire  scriptures  have  been  published  at  Honolulu,  in  the 
Hawaiian  language,  in  a  style  highly  indicative  of  the 
improved  state  of  the  arts  among  this  people.     Nor  have 
the  mere  rudiments  of  knowledge  been  taught.     At  La- 
haina  on  the  island  of  Maui  is  a  high  school,  where  the 
higher  branches   of  science,  Geometry,  Trigonometry 
and  Navigation,  have  been  successfully  prosecuted.    To 
follow  the  advancement  of  the  nation   in  intelligence, 
must  be  an  interesting  theme,  a  task   liowever  which 
belongs  rather  to  the  historian  than  to  the  tourist.  Suffice 
it  to  say,  that  the  engravings  of  maps  and  landscapes  on 
copper,  executed  by  the  pupils  of  the  high  school,  are 
among  the  most  astonishing  proofs  of  the  progress  of  the 
nation  in  civilization,  and  of  their  capacity  for  improve- 
ment.    At   the   eastern   part   of  Honolulu,   where   the 
mission  families  are  located,  is  the  printing  office  and 
appurtenances,  and  the  other  buildings  connected  with 
the   missionary   operations   upon    these    islands.     The 
printing  office  is  a  two  story  building  with  an  ample 
basement,  and   is   constructed   entirely  of  coral   stone. 
There  are  belonging  to  it,  three  or  four  printing  presses,, 
several   founts  of  type   of  various  kinds,  and  a  screw 
press.     Almost  all  kinds  of  printing  are  executed  at  this 
office  in  good  style.     There  is  also  a  bindery  connected 
with  the  printing  office,  where  the  binding  of  books  is  not 
inferior  to  what  we  ordinarily  see  in  the  United  States. 


CHURCHES  AT  HONOLULU.      255 

At  the  different  stations  in  the  islands,  churches  have 
been  erected  by  the  natives  for  religious  worship,  and  the 
architecture  of  these  indicates  in  some  measure  the  ad- 
vancement in  the  arts  of  life  at  the  respective  stations. 
At  Honolulu,  there  are  two  native  churches,  erected  at 
different  times,  and  differing  widely  in  excellence  of  con- 
struction. The  oldest  one  is  an  immense  thatched  build- 
ing, nearly  two  hundred  feet  in  length,  making  no  pre- 
tensions to  any  advantages  except  in  securing  the  cool- 
ness and  comfort  of  the  congregation.  The  accompany- 
ing representation  is  from  a  sketch  I  took  of  it  in  one  of 
my  morning  walks,  and  I  need  not  particularize  respect- 
ing its  exterior.  In  front  of  the  middle  door,  is  the  pulpit, 
a  plain  though  neat  structure,  upon  each  side  of  which, 
are  the  rude  benches  of  the  natives,  capable  of  seating 
not  far  from  two  thousand,  and  the  church  could  contain 
over  a  thousand  more.  This  church  is  under  the  care 
of  the  Rev.  Hiram  Bingham,  one  of  the  first  missionaries 
that  were  sent  to  these  islands,  and  it  numbers  not  far 
from  one  thousand  members  in  good  standing. 

The  second  native  church  is  located  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  town,  and  is  under  the  care  of  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Smith.  As  I  attended  service  at  this  church,  I  shall  be 
somewhat  more  particular  in  my  description  of  it.  It  is 
a  large  building,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
long  by  sixty  broad,  made  of  plastered  adobies,  having  a 
roof  projecting  five  or  six  feet  from  the  main  building, 
and  thatched  with  straw.  The  belfry  is  a  tower  uncon- 
nected with  the  main  building,  as  will  be  seen  by  refer- 
ence to  the  sketch.  The  interior  is  finished  off  with  a 
nice  white  wall,  and  reflects  great  credit  upon  the  skill 
of  the  natives.  The  pulpit,  consisting  of  a  desk  upon 
a  platform,  is  located  in  the  rear  of  the  building,  at  some 
distance  from  the  wall,  from  the  difficulty  of  being  heard 


256  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

over  so  large  a  building.  Notwithstanding  the  great  di- 
mensions of  this  church,  every  part  was  occupied  with 
attentive  hearers,  and  I  should  judge  there  were  over  a 
thousand  persons  in  the  room.  The  congregation  was 
perfectly  decorous,  and  entered  into  the  services  of  the 
sanctuary  with  a  propriety,  which  would  have  been 
creditable  to  an  American  audience.  The  exercises  were 
conducted  in  the  congregational  form,  and  the  tunes, 
which  were  familiar  to  me,  were  very  well  performed, 
though  marked  with  a  peculiar  nasal  intonation.  There 
were  several  natives  present,  whose  hoary  locks  indicated 
that  they  had  been  witnesses  of  the  scenes  of  by-gone  days, 
and  of  the  strange  revolutions  that  had  so  rapidly  suc- 
ceeded one  another  within  the  last  twenty  years.  And 
only  twenty  years  have  sufficed  to  produce  such  mighty 
moral  revolutions !  I  often  thought,  as  I  looked  upon 
these  representatives  of  the  past,  what  must  be  their  feel- 
ings, in  contrasting  their  former  degraded  condition  with 
the  present  blessings,  which  a  pure  and  holy  religion  has 
conferred  upon  them.  There  are  about  a  thousand  com- 
municants connected  with  this  church  ;  and  from  all  I 
can  learn,  they  appear  to  understand  the  fundamental 
doctrines  of  religion,  and  the  nature  of  their  covenant 
obligations,  so  that  their  admission  into  the  church  is 
the  result  of  a  sober  and  intelligent  conviction  of  its 
importance. 

But  the  place  of  religious  worship,  which  is  destined 
to  be  by  far  the  finest  upon  these  islands,  and  which  in 
architecture  and  construction  will  vie  with  some  of  the 
largest  in  our  own  country,  is  the  church  which  is  build- 
ing in  the  eastern  part  of  the  town,  very  near  the  oh 
native  church.  The  representation  I  have  made  of  it, 
taken  from  a  front  view  and  side  view,  lent  me  by  th< 
Rev.  Mr.  Bingham,  by  whom  the  edifice  was  designee 


schools.  257 

and  who  is  himself  chief  architect.  The  foundation  of 
this  building  was  laid  in  1839,  and  it  is  now  carried  up 
nearly  as  high  as  to  the  cornice.  It  is  built  of  coral 
stone,  hewn  out  into  large  cubical  blocks,  and  its  dimen- 
sions are  very  great,  being  one  hundred  and  forty  four 
by  seventy  eight  feet.  The  expenses  are  defrayed  by 
the  chiefs  and  by  the  contributions  of  the  natives.  The 
labor  is  performed  almost  entirely  by  the  natives,  and 
when  the  church  is  completed,  it  will  stand  as  a  monu- 
ment which  will  reflect  high  honor  upon  the  enterprize 
and  skill  of  the  Hawaiian  nation.  The  representations 
of  the  old  and  new  native  churches,  are.  in  some  respects, 
emblematic  of  the  past  and  present  condition  of  the  Ha- 
waiian nation. 

There  are  several  schools  in  Honolulu,  for  the  instruc- 
tion of  native  children;  but  the  most  interesting  among 
them,  is  a  school  for  the  education  of  the  young  chiefs 
of  the  nation,  which  is  under  the  care  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Cooke.  It  is  held  in  a  large  adobie  building,  erected  in 
the  form  of  a  quadrangle,  enclosing  an  area,  upon  every 
side  of  which  are  the  apartments  of  the  pupils,  the  school- 
room, and  dining-room,  fitted  up  in  the  most  convenient 
manner,  and  all  at  the  expense  of  the  government,  whose 
desire,  that  those  who  are  to  direct  the  future  destinies 
of  the  nation  may  be  under  a  religious  influence,  is 
highly  commendable.  Among  the  pupils  was  pointed 
out  to  me  the  the  Governor  of  Kauai,  an  office  which  is 
hereditary  in  these  islands.  He  is  a  fine  looking  boy, 
and  although  rather  restive  when  first  introduced  into 
the  school,  he  has  become  very  obedient,  and  attentive 
to  his  books. 

The  Oahu  Charity  School  was  commenced  about 
seven  years  ago,  and  has  been  supported  by  the  patronage 
of  the  foreign  residents,  and  by  the  contributions  of  the 

22* 


258  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

benevolent  visiting  these  islands.  The  house  is  a 
plain  little  edifice,  built  of  coral  stone,  with  a  projecting 
tower  surmounted  by  a  modest  cupola,  in  which  there 
is  a  bell  to  summon  the  scholars  to  their  tasks  at  the  ap- 
pointed hour.  The  school  now  contains  about  eighty- 
pupils,  consisting  of  half-cast  children,  and  youth  bom 
on  the  islands,  and  being  the  offspring  of  foreign  fathers, 
destined  to  exert  a  great  influence  in  the  Hawaiian  na- 
tion. Until  the  establishment  of  this  institution,  the 
education  of  this  class  of  children  was  almost  entirely 
neglected,  but  now  their  situation  seems  to  promise  that 
they  will  become  fitted  for  stations  of  usefulness  and  re- 
spectability in  life.  It  was  originated,  I  believe,  by  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Johnston,  who  went  out  to  these  islands  as  mis- 
sionaries, under  whose  charge  it  still  continues,  and  to 
whose  industry  and  skill,  its  present  high  degree  of 
prosperity  is  to  be  attributed. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  things  at  Honolulu,  is  the 
Institute,  a  society  for  the  promotion  of  scientific  investi- 
gation of  every  kind.  Belonging  to  the  society  is  a 
museum  of  curiosities,  and  also  of  specimens  of  natural 
history.  There  is  also  a  library  in  the  same  room,  con- 
sisting of  several  hundred  choice  books.  The  objects  of 
the  society  are  of  a  highly  interesting  character.  For 
here  in  the  central  point  of  a  vast  ocean,  studded  with 
numerous  groups  of  islands,  a  great  variety  of  curious 
and  useful  information  respecting  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  the  different  islanders,  the  natural  history,  and 
the  productions  of  Polynesia,  might  be  collected.  Just 
before  our  arrival,  unfortunately,  the  society  had  sus- 
pended its  meetings  for  a  time,  so  that  1  had  not  the  pleas- 
ure of  attending  any  of  their  exercises. 

The  missionaries  in  their  labors  at  these  islands,  while 
they  have  taught  the  people  the  way  of  life,  have  not 


schools.  259 

been  neglectful  of  the  useful  arts.  The  men  have  been 
instructed  in  agriculture,  and  the  women  have  been 
taught  to  sew,  and  to  make  garments  for  themselves,  and 
thus  a  people,  indolent  by  nature,  have  been  made  indus- 
trious by  those  whose  perseverance  has  indicated  their 
devotion  to  the  temporal  as  well  as  to  the  spiritual  inter- 
ests of  the  natives.  But  the  happiest  results  that  have 
flowed  from  the  labors  of  the  missionaries,  and  to  which 
all  the  indications  of  refinement  that  are  to  be  seen  in  these 
islands  are  to  be  attributed,  have  been  owing  to  the  es- 
tablishment and  supremacy  of  law  throughout  the 
nation.  Next  to  religion,  and  indeed  based  upon  it,  was 
the  recommendation  of  the  missionaries  to  establish  de- 
finite laws,  by  which  the  nation  was  to  be  governed,  and 
among  the  first  enactments  of  the  government  were  those 
which  were  intimately  connected  with  the  observance 
of  religion  ;  for  in  February,  1823,  the  government  pub- 
licly acknowledged  the  Christian  Sabbath,  and  required 
the  suspension  of  ordinary  business  and  sports  on  that 
sacred  day.  Since  1  have  been  at  Honolulu,  I  have  been 
struck  with  the  stillness  and  good  order  observed  on  the 
Sabbath.  All  the  business  and  pleasures  of  the  week 
are  given  up,  and  at  the  ringing  of  the  bell,  the  people 
attired  in  their  best,  are  seen  walking  quietly  to  their  re- 
spective places  of  worship.  The  supremacy  of  law  upon 
these  islands,  has  given  a  perfect  security  to  property, 
such  as  is  not  enjoyed  any  where  else  in  the  Pacific  ;  and 
this  is  the  secret  of  the  commercial  prosperity  of  the  Ha- 
waiian islands,  and  the  appearance  of  enterprize  and 
affluence  exhibited  by  the  foreign  residents  at  Honolulu. 
It  is  the  mainspring  of  commerce  all  over  the  world,  and 
especially  among  these  rude  islanders  of  thePacific,  whose 
cupidity  and  treachery  no  sense  of  justice  would  ever 
have  restrained,  were  it  not  ingrafted  into  them  by  the 


260  SANDWICH     ISLANDS. 

religious  teachings  of  the  missionaries.  Again  I  would 
ask,  what  would  have  been  the  condition  of  these  islands 
had  they  never  been  visited  by  these  devoted  men  1 
Would  they  have  been  taught  to  give  up  their  degrading 
superstitions  ;  to  love  justice  and  integrity ;  to  maintain 
a  sacred  respect  for  property,  by  the  example  and 
recommendation  of  the  foreigners  residing  among  them  7 
Alas,  the  conduct  of  foreigners  has  too  often  inculcated 
far  different  precepts  from  these,  and  these  poor  islanders 
would  never  have  heard  any  mention  of  the  God  we 
worship,  except  in  the  oath  of  execration.  I  do  not 
mean  to  imply  that  all  the  foreign  residents  at  the  Ha- 
waiian Islands  are  exerting  a  bad  influence  upon  the 
nation.  Far  from  it ;  there  are  many  that  I  could  name, 
whose  example  has  a  most  salutary  effect  upon  the 
government ;  but  these  very  persons  would  never  have 
taken  up  their  residence  upon  these  islands,  unless  they 
had  been  preceded  by  the  missionaries,  whose  exertions 
have  brought  about  that  supremacy  of  law  and  security 
of  property  which  they  now  enjoy. 

The  most  alarming  feature  in  the  present  aspect  of  the 
Hawaiian  Islands,  is  the  depopulation  which  is  steadily 
taking  place  from  year  to  year.  I  have  heard  several 
causes  assigned  for  this,  some  of  which  are  whimsical 
enough  ;  but  the  most  ridiculous  of  all  of  them,  was  told 
me  by  the  pilot  that  took  the  North  America  into  the 
harbor  upon  our  arrival.  He  has  resided  for  many 
years  at  these  islands,  and  like  many  other  foreigners, 
entertains  an  antipathy  to  the  missionaries,  and  is  dis- 
posed to  attribute  every  thing  bad,  to  their  influence. 
Upon  asking  his  opinion  of  the  cause  of  the  decrease  of 
population,  he  said,  that  '-'•  since  the  missionaries  obtained 
footing  upon  these  islands,  there  has  been  so  much 
•prayings  that  the  natives  have  been  literally  prayed  to 


DEPOPULATION.  261 

death.  They  are  a  very  superstitious  people,  and  it  was 
formerly  the  case  with  them  to  offer  up  prayers  for  the 
destruction  of  their  individual  enemies.  The  victim, 
imagining  himself  under  a  malignant  influence  from  the 
prayers  of  his  adversary,  grew  sick,  and  in  a  few  days, 
expired.  So  it  is  at  the  present  time,  as  was  formerly 
the  case ;  for  the  natives  are  constantly  harassed  about 
religious  matters,  and  die  through  their  own  superstitious 
terrors.  On  one  occasion,"  said  he,  in  confirmation  of 
his  theory,  "  I  was  called  upon  to  read  prayers  over  the 
corpse  of  a  foreign  resident,  and  among  the  natives  that 
thronged  around,  was  a  young  chief,  who  had  incurred 
the  resentment  of  the  deceased  for  some  cause  or  other. 
As  the  burial  service  proceeded,  he  imagined  that  the 
prayers  offered  on  the  occasion  were  incantations  offered 
to  the  god  of  the  stranger  for  vengeance  upon  himself. 
So  deeply  was  he  impressed  with  this  belief,  that  he  was 
filled  with  terror  and  apprehension.  It  haunted  him. 
wherever  he  went,  until  he  sank  beneath  the  horrid 
images  his  fancy  conjured  up,  and  in  about  a  week  he 
was  a  corpse,  the  victim  of  his  own  superstitious  fears. 
Religion  is  a  gloomy  thing,  and  it  acts  upon  the  simple 
minds  of  the  natives  in  such  a  way,  that  they  are  blighted 
with  melancholy,  and  die  under  the  influence  of  so  much 
priestcraft."  Previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  missionaries 
at  these  islands,  there  were  various  causes  that  produced 
a  diminution  of  the  population,  as  the  frequent  wars, 
pestilence,  and  infanticide;  but  particularly  the  intro- 
duction of  vile  diseases  by  the  ships  touching  at  the 
islands.  Since  then,  not  even  Christianity  has  been  able 
to  stay  this  infection,  whose  deadly  taint  is  infused  so 
widely  throughout  the  nation.  The  consequence  has 
been,  that  there  have  been  fewer  children,  and  these 
have  too  frequently  fallen  victims  to  the  sins  of  their 
parents  by  inheriting  their  diseases. 


262 


ANDWICH     ISLANDS 


"  Vitio  parentum 
Rara  juventus." 


The  following  table  exhibits  the  decrease  of  popula- 
tion at  the  several  islands  within  the  years  1832  and 
1836,  a  period  of  only  four  years. 


Hawaii 

Maui 

Molokai 

Ranai 

Kahoolawe 

Oahu 

Kauai 

INiihau 

Total 


1832 

1836 

45,752 

39,364 

35,062 

24,199 

6,000 

6,000 

1,600 

1,200 

80 

80 

29,755 

26.S09 

10,977 

3,934 

1,047 

993 

130,273 

102,579 

Decrease. 

6,388 
10,863 

400 

2,946 

7,043 

54 


27,694 


What  alarming  facts  does  this  table  declare  !  That  the 
annual  decrease  of  the  population  is,  upon  an  average 
over  six  thousand.  This  estimate  however,  is  much  too 
high,  1  have  been  told,  as  it  is  formed  by  a  comparison 
of  the  births  and  deaths  that  come  to  the  knowledge  of 
the  missionaries,  at  their  respective  stations.  A  birth  is 
regarded  by  the  natives  as  a  matter  of  so  little  conse- 
quence, that  it  is  not  made  known  to  the  missionaries, 
whereas  a  death  is  an  affair  of  public  notoriety,  and  is 
succeeded  by  continual  wailing  for  several  days  by  the 
relatives  of  the  deceased.  Still  the  depopulation  of  these 
islands  is  steadily  moving  forwards,  and  unless  it  is 
speedily  arrested,  the  total  extinction  of  the  nation  is 
inevitable,  and  these  humble  islanders  must  shrink  away 
before  the  irresistible  march  of  foreign  enterprize,  and 
like  the  aborigines  of  our  own  country,  become  extermi- 


DEPOPULATION.  263 

nated.  What  part  Roman  Catholicism  is  to  bear  in 
directing  the  future  destinies  of  the  nation,  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  tell,  but  no  one  who  is  solicitous  for  the  welfare  of 
this  interesting  people,  can  look  upon  their  movements 
without  apprehension.  But  that  they  have  gained  a 
permanent  footing  upon  many  of  the  islands  of  the  Pa- 
cific, and  that  their  religion  which  is  so  indulgent  to- 
wards the  gross  practices  of  the  natives,  and  so  attractive  by 
its  brilliant  pageantry,  is  destined  to  have  the  ascenden- 
cy in  most  of  these  islands,  is  perhaps  not  improbable. 

The  Hawaiian  Islands  are  annually  growing  in  im- 
portance as  their  natural  resources  are  becoming  more 
fully  developed,  and  their  commercial  advantages  more 
generally  known.  Situated  as  they  are  in  the  central 
point  of  the  vast  Pacific,  and  communicating  with  the 
continent  of  America  on  the  east,  and  with  Asia  on  the 
west,  and  to  the  south  west,  with  the  numberless  islands 
of  Polynesia,  they  seem  to  be  destined  to  be  the  seat  of  a 
flourishing  empire.  Before  this  period  shall  have  arrived, 
however,  there  is  some  reason  for  fearing,  that  from  the 
depopulating  causes  enumerated  above,  or  from  the 
grasping  and  engrossing  policy  of  foreign  nations,  the 
government  will  have  passed  into  other  hands,  and  the 
present  race  have  reached  the  borders  of  extermination. 

With  regard  to  the  shameful  aggressions  of  the  French 
frigate  «  L'Artemise,"  at  these  islands,  about  a  year  since, 
and  the  insolent  and  bullying  conduct  of  the  French 
Consul,  my  limits  will  not  allow  me  to  enter  into  the 
discussion  in  full,  without  which,  the  transactions  on 
that  occasion,  cannot  be  presented  with  sufficient  vivid- 
ness. All  the  proceedings  of  that  disgraceful  affair — the 
most  outrageous  that  has  violated  national  sovereignty 
for  many  years— have  been  published  to  the  world,  and 
I  are  perhaps,  familiar  to  the  reader. 


' 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

VOYAGE   TO   TAHITI. 

Embarkation — Passengers — An    incident — Calm    latitudes — 
Poisonous  fish. 

Tuesday,  August  4th.  Yesterday,  I  bade  a  long 
adieu  to  many  kind  friends  at  Honolulu,  and  established 
myself  in  my  quarters  aboard  the  barque  "  Flora,"  Cap- 
tain Spring,  bound  for  New  York.  To  Dr.  Wood  and 
his  estimable  and  accomplished  lady,  and  to  Mr.  Brins- 
made,  the  United  States'  Consul,  I  am  particularly 
indebted,  for  the  continued  kindness  and  hospitality 
they  displayed  towards  me,  which  I  shall  ever  bear  in 
affectionate  remembrance.  Mr.  Brinsmade  is  a  man  of 
most  excellent  character,  the  friend  and  supporter  of  the 
missionaries,  and  takes  an  active  part  in  the  religious 
interests  of  Honolulu :  in  all  these  respects  exhibiting  a 
striking  contrast  to  his  predecessor.  If  all  the  represent- 
atives of  our  nation  in  foreign  countries,  were  like  the 
United  States  Consul  at  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  not  only 
would  the  interests  of  the  republic  be  sustained  with 
more  dignity,  but  their  influence  would  have  a  most 
excellent  effect  upon  the  people  with  whom  they  are 
located. 

With  these  deserved  tributes  to  the  friends  I  have  1 


' 


BARQUE     FLORA.  265 

behind  at  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  which  have  faded  from 
view  many  hours  since,  I  hasten  to  take  a  sketch  of  my 
ship  and  fellow  voyagers.  The  Flora,  is  a  barque  of 
about  two  hundred  and  ninety  three  tons  burden,  nearly 
a  hundred  tons  smaller  than  the  North  America,  and 
in  many  other  respects  is  her  inferior.  She  is  a  merchant 
vessel,  and  arrived  at  Honolulu  a  short  time  since,  with 
stores  for  the  Exploring  Expedition.  Her  commander 
is  from  a  highly  respectable  family,  a  brother  of  Dr. 
Spring  of  New  York  City,  and  a  gentleman  of  courteous 
manners.  The  Flora,  is  chartered  by  one  of  the 
mercantile  houses  at  Honolulu,  and  is  principally 
freighted  with  sugar  and  molasses,  novel  exports  from 
the  Hawaiian  Islands  to  the  United  States,  a  distance  of 
eighteen  thousand  miles.  The  speculation  will  undoubt- 
edly prove  a  failure,  from  the  high  rate  at  which  the 
ship  is  chartered— twelve  hundred  dollars  per  month — 
and  from  the  long  time  that  must  elapse  before  reaching 
the  United  States,  as  the  Flora  is  reputed  to  be  a  very 
dull  sailer.  In  addition  to  the  articles  I  have  mentioned, 
she  carries  several  casks  of  arrow  root,  of  a  very  superior 
quality,  and  a  quantity  of  hides.  But  the  most  interest- 
ing specimen  of  the  productions  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands, 
consists  in  several  varieties  of  raw  silk  from  the  planta- 
tions on  the  island  of  Kauai. 

The  cabin  of  the  Flora  is  very  small,  having  three 
state-rooms,  one  of  which  belonging  to  the  captain  is  the 
only  one  whose  dimensions  were  intended  for  comfort. 
As  the  other  two  are  situated  upon  each  quarter  of  the 
ship,  they  are  conformed  to  the  shape  of  the  vessel,  and 
are  somewhat  triangular  in  their  outlines,  which  renders 
them  very  inconvenient ;  for  with  the  large  sea  chest  I 
am  obliged  to  admit  into  mine,  there  is  hardly  room 
enough  left  to  stand  up  securely.     The  steerage— that 

23 


266  VOYAGE     TO     TAHITI. 

part  of  a  ship  lying  between  the  cabin  and  the  mainmast, 
is  fitted  up  with  temporary  state-rooms,  of  large  dimen- 
sions, for  the  other  passengers.  There  are  twenty 
passengers  in  all,  who,  with  the  exception  of  two  or  three 
that  are  to  be  left  at  the  Society  Islands,  are  to  consti- 
tute a  community  by  ourselves  for  many  a  month,  while 
roving  the  ocean,  in  the  long  voyage  to  our  native  land. 
The  character  of  the  passengers,  gives  the  fairest  prom- 
ises of  a  happy  and  profitable  voyage.  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Bingham,  after  a  residence  of  twenty  years  at  these 
remote  isles  of  the  sea,  during  which,  amid  toils  and 
privations  of  which  we  have  no  adequate  conception, 
they  have  seen  the  christian  religion  established  among 
a  race  of  idolaters,  and  have  given  permanency  to  a  lan- 
guage existing  but  from  generation  to  generation,  have 
now  embarked  with  their  family  of  three  young  chil- 
dren, to  revisit  the  land  of  their  fathers,  for  the  recovery  of 
their  health,  and  then  to  return  again  to  these  islands, 
after  bidding  farewell  forever  to  their  children,  and  com- 
mitting them  to  the  care  of  a  benevolent  public.  The 
tide  of  contending  emotions  that  agitate  their  hearts  can 
only  be  imagined.  With  the  thousand  perplexities  and 
cares  attendant  upon  making  preparation  for  so  long  a 
voyage,  and  in  separating  themselves  perhaps  forever 
from  a  people  that  had  grown  up  under  their  instruction, 
and  to  whom  they  had  become  tenderly  attached,  they 
were  almost  exhausted,  and  it  seemed  like  a  renewal  of 
that  depressing  sorrow  that  attended  their  departure  from 
their  native  land.  The  poor  natives  accompanied  them 
in  crowds  as  they  came  down  to  the  ship,  and  thronged 
the  dock,  with  sorrow  depicted  in  their  countenances. 
Soon  the  voice  of  wailing,  which  had  been  heard  from 
one  or  two.  became  general,  and  a  note  of  wild  lamenta- 
tion burst  forth  in   a  deafening  chorus,  until   by  the 


AN     INCIDENT.  267 

efforts  of  two  or  three  of  the  missionaries,  the  sorrow  of 
the  people  was  restrained  to  a  more  quiet  demonstration 
of  their  grief.  I  could  not  but  admire  the  heroic  forti- 
tude with  which  Mrs.  Thurston  tore  herself  away  from  her 
aifectionate  husband,  to  voyage  with  her  family,  consist- 
ing of  two  sons  and  three  daughters,  to  a  far  distant 
country,  which  had  almost  become  a  foreign  land,  after 
an  exile  of  twenty  years.  Poor  Mr.  Thurston !  When 
he  returns  to  his  home  upon  the  rocky  shore  of  Hawaii, 
how  heavily  must  the  lonesome  hours  pass  by,  which 
are  no  longer  enlivened  by  the  presence  of  his  beloved 
family.  There  are  a  father  and  mother  too,  who  with 
bursting  hearts,  commit  their  little  daughter,  of  only  nine 
years  of  age,  to  the  care  of  Mrs.  Bingham,  to  be  borne 
far  away  from  their  presence  to  a  land  of  strangers. 
Such  are  some  of  the  heart-rending  scenes  that  are  often 
exhibited  in  the  missionaries'  life,  who  not  only  exile 
themselves  from  all  they  hold  dear  in  their  native  land, 
but  are  ready  to  sunder  every  tie  of  affection,  if  required 
by  a  sense  of  duty.  There  are  also  a  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
.Rogers,  from  Hartford,  Connecticut,  very  estimable 
people,  who  are  returning  home  after  a  residence  of  a 
year  or  two  at  these  islands,  during  which  time  they 
have  been  engaged  in  the  silk  culture.  Mr.  R.,  has  been 
laboring  for  many  months,  under  a  severe  attack  of  the 
epidemic  ophthalmia  prevalent  upon  Kauai,  where  he  has 
been  residing,  which  has  obliged  him  to  confine  himself 
to  a  room  made  perfectly  dark,  a  very  disagreeable  situa- 
tion in  so  warm  a  climate,  exclusive  of  the  distressing 
nature  of  the  ophthalmia. 

Our  voyage  commences  rather  unpropitiously;  for 
this  morning,  we  were  all  thrown  into  consternation  by 
the  alarm  that  one  of  the  foremast  hands  had  cut  his 
throat  in  the  forecastle.     Captain  S.,  followed  by  two  or 


268  VOYAGE     TO    TAHITI. 

three  of  the  passengers  hurried  forward  and  ordered  the 
man  to  be  brought  upon  deck,  when  a  deep  gash  upon 
the  right  side  of  his  neck,  from  which  the  blood  was 
bubbling  out,  and  streaming  down,  told  very  plainly 
that  he  had  penetrated  into  his  windpipe,  while  a  ghast- 
ly paleness  made  the  wound  appear  more  dangerous 
than  it  proved  to  be.  The  gash  was  speedily  closed  up 
with  a  needle  and  thread,  and  the  man  placed  under 
guard,  lest  he  should  repeat  this  attempt  at  suicide. 
This  man  had  been  put  on  board  the  Flora,  by  the 
United  States  consul  at  Honolulu,  agreeably  to  law,  after 
having  lived  upon  government  for  about  a  year.  He 
had  occasionaily  given  indications  of  mental  aberration, 
and  displayed  great  reluctance  to  come  on  board  the 
ship,  shedding  tears  very  profusely  when  he  was  com- 
pelled to  do  so.  To  witness  insanity  is  a  painful  scene, 
anywhere ;  but  to  be  brought  into  so  close  proximity 
with  it,  and  with  its  extravagances  and  perhaps  violence 
constantly  enacted  before  one's  eyes,  as  must  necessarily 
be  the  case  when  it  occurs  on  board  ship,  seems  to  cast 
a  shade  of  melancholy  over  our  prospects  for  the  voyage. 
Monday,  Sept.  7.  After  leaving  Honolulu,  our  course 
was  in  a  south-easterly  direction,  "on the  wind,"  and  we 
had  a  very  pleasant  run  for  two  or  three  days,  until  we 
arrived  in  latitude  10°  north,  when  we  encountered  a 
series  of  calms  and  light  baffling  winds,  that  detained  us 
for  more  than  two  weeks  between  the  parallels  of  10° 
and  40°  north.  The  Flora  has  most  fully  acted  out 
her  character  for  being  a  dull  sailer,  and  in  this  calm 
region,  between  the  north-east  and  south-east  trade 
winds,  she  was  perfectly  intolerable.  Her  track  over 
the  ocean  marked  down  upon  the  chart  was  zig-zag  in 
every  direction,  like  the  filaments  of  a  spider's  web.  Day 
after  day  presented  the  same  scene  with  but  little  variety. 


POISONOUS    FISH.  269 

The  ship  with  her  sails  resting  listlessly  against  the 
masts  and  rigging,  lay  motionless  upon  the  sea,  except  as 
she  was  lifted  by  the  swell  as  it  rose  and  fell  sluggishly, 
while  to  the  verge  of  the  horizon,  the  glassy  ocean  was 
a  mirror  to  the  piles  of  massive  clouds,  and  reflected  the 
intense  rays  of  the  sun,  that  seemed  to  be  concentrated 
in  this  region.  Two  or  three  times  during  the  day,  a 
black  cloud  might  be  seen  slowly  rising  above  the  hori- 
zon, and  expanding  itself;  while  in  its  approach,  a  dark 
shadow  was  cast  upon  the  waters,  preceded  by  the  wind 
as  it  began  to  moan  in  the  rigging,  and  accompanied  by 
a  refreshing  rain,  which  soon  passed  over,  however — the 
breeze  died  away,  and  the  scorching  sun  came  out 
again.  In  latitude  4°  north,  the  south-east  trade  winds 
came  to  our  assistance,  and  removed  us  from  this  region 
of  rain,  squalls  and  calms,  into  a  more  congenial  clime. 
We  crossed  the  equator  in  longitude  148°  20'  west,  and 
steering  close  hauled  upon  the  wind,  made  a  southerly 
course  very  nearly,  but  have  fallen  some  distance  to 
leeward  of  Tahiti  however,  and  are  now  endeavoring  to 
work  up  to  windward. 

While  we  were  floating  about  in  the  calm  region  north 
of  the  equator,  the  ship  was  surrounded  by  large  schools 
of  Bonetto  and  Albacore,  that  continued  around  her  for 
many  days,  and  even  accompanied  us  for  some  time  after 
we  emerged  from  it,  which  afforded  us  a  fine  opportunity 
for  fishing,  and  numbers  of  both  varieties  were  captured 
every  day.  One  morning,  after  we  had  breakfasted  very 
freely  upon  some  bonetto,  one  of  the  passengers  was 
seized  with  a  violent  blinding  headache,  with  a  feeling  of 
severe  oppression  upon  the  head,  and  the  face  was  suf- 
fused with  a  deep  purple  hue,  as  if  all  the  blood  in  the 
system  had  been  determined  in  that  direction.  In  about 
an  hour,  the  symptoms  began  to  be  more  favorable,  and 

23* 


I 


270  VOYAGE     TO     TAHITI. 

not  long  after,  the  effects  of  this  sudden  attack  had 
entirely  passed  away.  A  day  or  two  afterwards,  another 
person  was  taken  in  a  similar  manner,  after  partaking 
freely  of  a  dish  of  bonetto,  which  convinced  us  that  there 
were  poisonous  properties  belonging  to  these  fish,  but 
confined  to  a  particular  part,  as  was  evident  from  the 
fact,  that  but  one  person  had  been  disagreeably  affected 
in  each  of  these  instances,  whereas  the  dish  was  partici- 
pated in  by  all  at  the  table.  The  poisonous  properties 
that  are  frequently  resident  in  the  dolphin  are  well 
known,  particularly  in  those  that  are  taken  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  West  India  Islands,  but  in  the  other  varieties 
of  ocean  fish  that  live  near  the  surface,  as  the  bonetto 
and  albacore,  it  is  a  rare  occurrence  to  find  them  thus 
infected.  While  I  was  aboard  the  North  America, 
we  caught  great  numbers  of  these  fish,  but  never  expe- 
rienced any  injury  from  eating  them.  To  detect  the 
presence  of  poison,  a  silver  spoon  cooked  along  with 
them,  is  said  to  be  an  infallible  test,  as  the  silver  will 
become  blackened,  if  there  are  any  poisonous  properties 
present.  In  every  case  like  those  I  have  mentioned  an 
emetic  should  be  speedily  administered,  which  will  gene- 
rally afford  immediate  relief.  It  would  be  an  interesting 
object  of  enquiry  to  the  naturalist,  I  should  suppose,  to 
discover  the  cause  of  this  infection  of  ocean  fish  with 
poisonous  properties,  and  in  what  part  of  the  fish  they 
reside. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

TAHITI. 

Arrival  at  Tahiti— Papeete  Bay— British  Consulate — Ameri- 
can whale  ships — Natives — Capt.  Upham — United  States' 
Consul — Disaster  at  Tongatabu. 

Monday,  September  14.  After  an  unusually  long 
passage  of  thirty  eight  days  from  Honolulu,  Tahiti  and 
the  adjacent  islands  hove  in  sight,  and  we  came  to  anchor 
in  Papeete  ("  Pah-pay-ay-tay")  bay,  on  Thursday,  Sep- 
tember 10th,  with  the  expectation  of  spending  two  or 
three  days  at  this  lovely  island.  Papeete  bay  is  on  the  lee 
side  of  the  island  of  Tahiti,  around  which  the  trade 
winds,  intercepted  by  the  lofty  mountains,  are  diverted  in 
curves  around  the  northern  and  southern  points  of  the 
island,  in  such  a  manner,  that  a  little  to  the  southward 
of  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  there  is  a  tract  of  water 
which,  is  almost  always  perfectly  calm,  where  ships  are 
sometimes  detained  for  many  hours,  while,  perhaps, 
within  a  few  feet  of  them,  the  wind,  in  a  regularly  de- 
fined stratum,  is  sweeping  down  from  the  mountains  and 
dashing  up  the  "  white  caps"  upon  the  surface  of  the  sea. 
The  appearance  of  Tahiti  is  highly  picturesque,  and  de- 
lightful to  the  eye,  as  you  gradually  draw  nearer  and 
nearer.  Its  outline  is  bold,  and  the  high  mountains  that 
rise  with  a  steep  ascent  from  the  shores  form  many  an 
angular  ridge,  until  the  topmost  peaks  pierce  the  clouds, 


272  TAHITI. 

that  hang  like  wreaths  around  their  summits ;  while 
down  their  sides  a  bright  red  clay  contrasts  strangely 
with  the  deep  green  verdure  of  the  ravines.  From  the 
gracefully  winding  shore,  long  low  points  of  land  are 
seen  running  out  into  the  sea,  covered  with  a  dense  array 
of  cocoa-nut  groves,  whose  tall,  branchless  trunks,  and 
canopies  of  broad  leaves,  present  a  novel  and  interesting 
appearance.  At  irregular  distances  from  the  shore,  a 
coral  reef  extends  itself;  upon  which  the  sea  bursts,  and 
encircles  the  islands  with  a  snow-white  fringe.  In  many 
places,  the  reef  is  connected  immediately  with  the  shore, 
but  it  is  generally  constructed  at  some  distance,  parallel 
to  it,  forming  in  some  instances,  safe  anchorage  for  ships 
in  the  placid  lagoons  that  lie  between  the  reef  and  the 
shore.  It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  wherever  fresh  water 
streams  run  into  the  sea,  there  are  openings  in  the  reef 
abreast  of  them ;  for  the  fresh  water  appears  to  have 
neutralized  the  labors  of  the  animalcule,  to  which  these 
reefs  are  supposed  to  owe  their  origin.  Upon  this  prin- 
ciple, Papeete  harbor  was  formed.  Across  a  deep  recess, 
in  the  island,  extends  the  reef,  which,  far  to  the  right,  is 
interrupted,  thus  giving  passage  into  the  harbor  while 
the  surf  bursts  in  one  continued  roar  upon  the  immov- 
able barrier  upon  each  side.  A  ship  in  coming  to  an- 
chor, runs  into  the  passage,  then  beats  up  to  her  desired 
anchorage — for  the  wind  is  almost  always  from  one 
quarter,  that  is,  ahead.  A  noble  sheet  of  water  spreads  out 
before  you,  a  mile  in  length  perhaps,  and  a  half  mile  wide. 
On  the  left  hand  side,  a  small  island  of  circular  shape  is 
a  beautiful  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  bay,  the  shores 
of  which,  down  to  the  beach  are  crowned  with  luxuri- 
ant groves,  while  a  narrow  point  of  land  running  out  to- 
wards the  reef,  and  set  thickly  with  cocoa-nut  trees, 
gives   variety  to  the  view  in  that  direction.     Around 


PAPEETE    BAY.  273 

this  point,  between  the  reef  and  the  shore,  there  is  a  safe 
passage  for  ships  up  to  Point  Venus,  celebrated  in  the 
voyages  of  Capt.  Cook,  as  the  place  from  which  the 
transit  of  Venus  was  observed — whence  its  name.  Pa- 
peete Bay  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  is  far  su- 
perior to  Honoulu  Harbor,  in  natural  qualities.  The 
hoarse  surges  that  beat  upon  the  reef  without,  are  lulled 
to  rest  in  its  tranquil  waters  where 

"  The  glassy  ocean  hushed  forgets  to  roar, 
But  trembling  murmurs  on  the  sandy  shore." 

Protected  from  the  winds  by  the  lofty  mountain  peaks, 
and  embosomed  in  verdure  of  the  densest  luxuriance  of 
the  tropics,  Papeete  Bay  exceeds  in  beauty,  any  sheet  of 
water  I  have  ever  seen.  It  is  so  capacious,  that  a  fleet 
of  a  hundred  sail  of  ships  might  lie  at  anchor  without 
incommoding  one  another,  and  its  depth  of  water  is  such 
that  large  vessels  are  moored  within  a  stone's  throw  of 
the  shore. 

To  form  some  idea  of  the  appearance  of  Papeete,  the 
seat  of  government  at  Tahiti,  imagine  the  shore  on 
the  right  hand  side  of  the  bay,  to  consist  of  a  hot  sand 
beach,  and  within  a  few  feet  of  the  water's  edge,  a  range 
of  light  built,  white  houses,  the  intervals  between  which 
are  filled  up  with  the  sombre  shantees  of  the  natives, 
while  the  rest  of  the  settlement  is  concealed  by  a  dense 
grove  of  orange  and  lime  trees,  prominent  among  which 
rise  the  stately  bread-fruit  trees,  with  their  dark  green 
enameled  foliage,  varied  here  and  there  by  the  waving 
leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut  tree,  and  you  have  some  faint 
idea  of  the  aspect  of  the  harbor,  where  nature  has  been 
so  profuse  in  richness  of  scenery,  but  art  so  humble. 
The  residences  of  the  foreigners,  are  light  wooden  struc- 
tures, painted  white  with  green  blinds  and  thatched  roofs  ; 
in  the  interior  the  rafters  are  left  uncovered  in  many  in- 


274  TAHITI. 

stances,  and  they  are  divided  off  into  separate  rooms,  by 
rude  partitions  constructed  of  boards  sawn  from  the 
bread-fruit  tree. 

As  we  came  to  anchor,  the  other  day,  we  were  boarded 
by  Mr.  Pritchard,  British  Consul,  belonging  formerly  to 
the  missionary  corps  upon  these  islands,  who  came  to 
welcome  our  missionary  passengers,  and  to  propose 
measures  for  their  accommodation  during  the  detention 
of  the  ship  at  Papeete.  Mr.  Pritchard  is  a  man  of  very 
amiable  character  and  pleasant  manners,  and  the  course 
he  has  pursued,  reflects  high  honor  upon  the  nation  he 
represents.  Although  nominally  pursuing  a  different 
vocation  from  that  of  the  missionary,  he  has  not  relaxed 
his  exertions  for  the  welfare  of  Tahiti,  but  preaches  very 
frequently  both  in  the  native  and  in  the  foreign  chapels. 

A  short  time  after  we  had  dropped  our  anchor,  an 
American  whale  ship,  the  "Benjamin  Tucker,"  Capt. 
Worth,  got  under  way,  and  ran  out  of  the  harbor,  bound 
on  a  cruise.  Her  fortune  was  somewhat  similar  with 
that  of  the  North  America ;  for  when  standing  in  for 
an  anchorage  in  a  curve  of  the  shore  at  James's  Island, 
one  of  the  Gallapagos  group,  the  ship  suddenly  struck  a 
sunken  rock,  and  with  such  violence,  that  her  loss  seem- 
ed to  be  inevitable.  This  occurred  not  far  from  the 
scene  of  our  disaster  and  about  the  same  time.  Had  the 
North  America  continued  on  her  original  course  after 
the  accident  which  befel  her  at  Chatham  Island,  both 
ships  would  have  been  making  repairs  at  Tahiti,  about 
the  same  time.  It  was  a  most  fortunate  circumstance 
however,  that  our  course  was  altered  for  Honolulu,  a 
more  eligible  place  not  only  in  offering  greater  facilities 
on  all  occasions,  but  because  Tahiti  would  have  been 
entirely  exhausted  of  the  materials  we  required,  if  the 
other  ship,  had  chanced  to  have  arrived  first.     Forothei 


PAPEETE     BAY.  275 

reasons  than  these  I  have  mentioned,  I  esteem  it  a  most 
happy  circumstance  that  Capt.  Richards  determined  to 
bear  away  for  Oahu. 

There  was  another  American  whale  ship,  the  "  Alex- 
ander Mansfield  "  of  Hudson,  lying  dismantled  near  the 
shore.  JNot  long  ago,  she  had  left  Papeete  bay,  bound  on  a 
cruise,  when,  after  being  at  sea  for  a  few  days,  it  was 
accidentally  discovered  that  the  stern  timbers  of  the  ship 
were  falling  to  pieces.  To  have  proceeded  on  the  voy- 
age in  this  dangerous  condition  would  have  been  mad- 
ness, and  she  returned  to  Papeete,  where  she  was  "  con- 
demned "  as  unseaworthy,  and  dismantled,  a  frequent 
occurrence  whenever  ships  are  found  to  be  incompetent 
for  service,  either  through  age,  or  from  injury.  In  a 
case  like  this,  happening  in  a  foreign  port,  the  American 
Consul,  upon  receiving  representations  from  the  master 
of  the  weak  condition  of  his  ship,  calls  a  "  survey,"  as 
the  examination  is  termed,  which  is  performed  by  one 
or  two  masters  of  vessels,  and  a  ship  carpenter,  who  de- 
cide upon  the  fitness  of  the  ship  to  go  to  sea,  after  a 
thorough  inspection  of  her  timbers.  For  this  service  they 
receive  a  suitable  remuneration,  and  their  decision  de- 
termines the  fate  of  the  ship.  The  "  Mansfield"  was  for- 
merly a  Liverpool  packet,  sailing  from  New  York  many 
years  since,  an  exaltation  that  would  hardly  be  surmised 
from  the  appearance  of  the  dingy  looking  hulk  lying 
condemned  at  Papeete. 

As  soon  as  possible,  I  went  ashore,  where  I  was  sur- 
prised at  the  many  marks  of  indolence,  and  want  of  en- 
terprise that  presented  themselves  in  every  direction,  and 
I  could  not  but  contrast  the  aspect  of  industry  and  vigor 
exhibited  at  Honolulu,  with  the  lifeless  air  that  pervaded 
Papeete.  With  the  exception  of  two  small  piers,  belong- 
ing to  the  French  and  English  consuls,  and  used  for 


276  TAHITI. 

boats,  there  is  no  landing  except  immediately  upon  the 
beach.  Nothing  about  the  place  indicates  the  least  pub- 
lic spirit  and  energy.  There  were  no  large  ware -houses 
filled  with  goods  as  at  Honolulu,  but  all  along  the  beach, 
we  saw  groups  of  natives,  sitting  under  the  shade  of  the 
cocoa-nut  tree  appearing  to  have  nothing  to  do  whatso- 
ever, but  to  cast  a  dreamy  look  over  the  scenery  of  the 
bay,  and  to  criticise  the  appearance  of  the  Flora,  as 
she  lay  at  anchor,  with  her  head  high  up  in  the  air  and 
her  stern  far  depressed  in  the  water — for  she  was  sadly 
out  of  trim.  Even  their  cupidity  for  levying  contribu- 
tions upon  strangers,  in  the  way  of  exchange  for  fruits 
and  other  articles — a  predominant  characteristic  of  the 
Pacific  islanders — could  tempt  none  of  them  to  come 
alongside  the  ship,  whereas,  at  Honolulu,  a  vessel  would 
be  surrounded  by  noisy  venders  of  fruits  and  vegetables, 
before  she  had  even  come  to  anchor.  There  are  many 
mountain  rills  emptying  into  the  bay,  which  we  forded 
as  well  as  we  were  able,  for,  although  the  beach  is  the 
thoroughfare  for  all  classes,  yet  they  are  too  indolent  to 
construct  bridges  across  these  water  courses,  and  prefer 
wading  through  them  to  exerting  themselves  to  such  a 
degree. 

As  we  passed  along  the  beach,  1  was  introduced  to 
Capt.  Upham,  Master  of  a  large  whale  ship,  the  "Sarah," 
which  was  "  standing  off  and  on"  outside  the  harbor. 
"When  my  name  was  announced  to  him,  he  enquired  if  I 
was  related  to  a  young  gentleman  of  the  same  family 
name,  residing  in  New  York  city.  Upon  my  answering 
in  the  affirmative,  and  that  he  was  a  brother  of  mine,  I 
was  delighted  to  hear  that  the  Captain  had  been  very 
well  acquainted  with  him  while  boarding  in  the  same 
house  in  the  city ;  for  nothing  is  more  acceptable  to  one 
who  is  far  from  home,  in  a  strange  land,  than  to  meet  with 


AMERICAN    WHALE     S1IIPS.  277 

one  who  is  acquainted  with  those  we  love,  for  we  then 
have  a  theme  of  conversation  which  brings  our  friends 
vividly  to  view.  I  was  then  invited  by  Captain  Upham, 
to  take  dinner  with  him  at  a  boarding  house  kept  by  an 
Englishwoman,  who  is  almost  entirely  indebted  to  cap- 
tains and  officers  of  American  whaleships  for  her  pleas- 
ant little  cottage  and  its  appurtenances.  After  dinner, 
which  by  the  way,  was  in  a  style  of  profusion  quite  as- 
tonishing to  one  connected  with  the  Barque  Flora,  I 
parted  with  my  newly  acquired  friend,  who  soon  went 
off  to  his  ship,  a  fine  vessel  of  five  hundred  tons  bur- 
den and  carrying  five  boats  in  service,  with  a  crew  of 
forty  men. 

Proceeding  along  the  beach,  I  was  made  acquainted 
with  Mr.  Bladder,  American  Consul  at  his  residence  sit- 
uated at  the  head  of  the  bay.  Our  principal  topic  of 
conversation  was  the  number  of  American  whaleships 
that  had  touched  at  Papeete  within  a  few  months.  Ow- 
ing to  the  recent  occupation  of  New  Zealand  by  the 
English,  whose  grasping  policy  induces  them  to  seize 
with  avidity,  upon  the  slightest  pretext,  the  possessions 
of  those  who  are  too  weak  to  resist  their  invasion, 
American  whaleships  have  been  excluded  from  obtain- 
ing supplies  there,  and  have  been  obliged  to  go  else- 
where ;  hence  an  unusual  number  have  visited  Papeete 
bay.  Since  the  commencement  of  the  the  year,  fifty- 
seven  whale  ships  had  arrived  here  for  recruits,  having 
cargoes,  on  the  aggregate,  to  the  value  of  a  million  and 
a  half  of  dollars.  The  arrival  of  so  many  ships,  placed 
a  large  number  of  invalid  seamen  under  the  charge  of 
the  consul,  and  many  that  had  recovered,  were  standing 
listlessly  under  the  shade  of  the  trees,  while  the  situation 
of  the  others  must  be  wretched  indeed,  as  there  are  no 
comfortable  accommodations  for  an  invalid  in  Papeete, 

24 


278  TAHITI. 

and  the  proper  medical  assistance  cannot  be  obtained. 

A  few  words  respecting  the  establishment  of  our  con- 
sulates. At  almost  all  foreign  ports  of  any  importance, 
the  government  of  the  United  States  have  appointed  a 
consul,  whose  duties  I  have  specified  in  part,  in  a  few 
preceding  remarks.  The  only  remuneration  that  the 
consul  receives  for  his  services,  which  often  engage  all 
his  time,  and  are  attended  with  no  slight  degree  of  labor 
and  vexation,  is  in  the  way  of  perquisites,  which  are  by 
far  too  inadequate  for  his  support  in  a  respectable  stand- 
ing. He  is  therefore  compelled  to  devise  other  methods 
for  procuring  the  means  of  subsistence,  an  alternative 
reflecting  great  discredit  upon  a  nation  of  such  ample 
resources,  that  the  representative  of  their  dignity  should 
be  obliged  to  resort  to  commercial  speculation  through 
the  illiberality  of  his  government,  which  places  him  in  a 
diminutive  attitude,  in  the  eyes  of  the  people  among 
whom  he  is  residing.  If  the  importance  of  our  com- 
merce with  any  foreign  port  renders  the  appointment  of 
a  consul  desirable,  his  salary  ought  to  be  sufficiently 
large,  that  he  may  not  feel  it  necessary  to  neglect  the  in- 
terests of  his  country,  to  attend  to  his  own  speculations ; 
there  are  also  many  other  reasons  for  rendering  the  con- 
sulate independent  of  commercial  transactions. 

All  the  foreign  residents — not  a  very  numerous  class —  I 
united  in  representing  Tahiti  as  one  of  the  most  unde- 
sirable countries  to  inhabit  in  the  world.  They  told  me, 
that  they  could  hardly  get  anything  for  their  tables  ex- 
cept, fruit  and  vegetables,  and  frequently  when  they  had 
invited  gentlemen  to  dine  with  them,  they  had  the 
mortification  of  sitting  down  to  empty  dishes.  This 
is  not  the  case  at  Honolulu  ;  and  although  the  barren 
aspect  of  Oahu  is  strongly  in  contrast  with  the  brilliant 
verdure  of  Tahiti,  and  although,   the  natives   of  thatj 


DISASTER    AT    TONGATABU.  279 

island  are  held  under  a  far  more  despotic  vassalage  than 
they  are  here,  yet  their  energy  and  industry  generally 
insures  an  abundance  of  everything  to  the  purchaser. 

Friday,  September  11.  The  brig  "Camden,"  belong- 
ing to  the  London  Missionary  Society,  and  placed  at  the 
disposal  of  the  missionaries  upon  Tahiti  and  the  adja- 
cent islands,  came  to  anchor  this  morning  in  the  bay. 
The  intelligence  she  brought  was  of  a  highly  interest- 
ing character  to  the  foreign  residents.  The  "  Favorite," 
an  English  sloop  of  war,  was  lying  at  anchor  at  the 
island  of  Tongatabu,  one  of  the  Friendly  islands,  to  the 
westward  of  this  group,  at  a  time,  when  the  natives 
were  divided  into  two  parties,  those  that  favored  the 
Christian  religion,  and  the  adherents  of  the  ancient  sys- 
tem of  idolatry,  who  maintained  the  most  violent  ani- 
mosities between  themselves.  The  Captain  of  the  "  Fa- 
vorite" endeavored  to  reconcile  them, and  upon  a  certain 
occasion,  landed  with  a  party  of  men  from  his  ship,  under 
arms,  to  act  as  mediator  between  the  opposite  factions. 
In  this  character,  he  assumed  arbitrary  powers,  in  virtue 
of  which,  he  marched  to  a  fort  where  the  heathen  party 
had  intrenched  themselves,  and  urged  them  to  sur- 
render; and  upon  their  refusal,  he  made  an  attack 
upon  the  fort,  at  the  very  commencement  of  which,  he 
fell  dead  with  two  of  his  men,  and  not  long  afterwards, 
the  rest  retreated,  carrying  off  the  bodies  of  the  killed, 
together  with  eighteen  of  their  number  that  were  despe- 
rately wounded.  This  interference  was  entirely  Unwar- 
ranted, and  the  British  Government  will  not  probably 
retaliate.  Its  disastrous  result  teaches  the  necessity  of 
extreme  caution  in  all  transactions  with  the  rude  natives 
of  Polynesia. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

TAHITI. 


dlfferelsxe    of    tuvie — natives — queen   pomare — pomare-tane 
— Tahittan   soldiers — Display — Church — Palace — Seamen's 


September  30.  Once  more  upon  the  main  we  are 
ploughing  our  way  over  its  fathomless  depths.  Mean- 
while, I  return  to  Tahiti,  to  narrate  what  passed  before 
me,  subsequent  to  my  preceding  date. 

The  reckoning  of  time  at  Tahiti  is  one  day  in  advance 
of  what  obtains  at  the  Hawaiian  islands,  which  was  de- 
rived from  those  who  came  from  the  United  States  by 
the  way  of  Cape  Horn.  The  missionary  operations  up- 
on this  and  the  adjacent  islands,  were  commenced  not 
far  from  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  by  mission- 
aries sent  oat  from  England,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  and  their  labors  have  been 
continued,  without  interruption  ever  since,  a  period  of 
forty  years.  In  their  passage  to  these  islands,  they  sailed 
eastward  around  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  passed  over 
about  210°  difference  of  longitude,  or  more  than  half  the 
circumference  of  the  globe.  Hence  their  computation  of 
time  must  be  in  advance  of  that  adopted  by  the  Hawaiian 
missionaries,  who  lost  time  by  sailing  westward  ;  and  of 
course,  Saturday  with  us  on  board  the  Flora  correspond- 
ed with  the  Sabbath  on  shore. 


NATIVES.  281 

An  incident  occurred  upon  our  arrival  at  Honolulu, 
which  illustrates  the  difference  in  time  produced  by 
sailing  in  opposite  directions.  While  the  North  Amer- 
ica, was  lying  outside  the  harbor,  an  English  ship 
came  to  anchor  close  by  us,  and  the  next  day,  which 
was  Saturday  with  us,  we  observed  that  every  thing 
was  perfectly  quiet  on  board,  but  on  the  following  day, 
as  we  were  putting  off  from  the  North  America  to  go 
to  church,  all  hands  were  in  motion  aboard  our  neigh- 
bor, some  in  hanging  stagings  over  her  side,  from  which 
to  paint  the  ship,  while  a  line  of  men  was  extended 
upon  the  maintopsail  yard,  engaged  in  "  bending  "  a  new 
maintopsail.  This  unusual  activity  was  at  first  supposed 
an  intended  desecration  of  the  day,  but  we  afterwards 
ascertained,  that  they  had  come  around  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  and  consequently,  that  our  Sabbath  was  Monday 
with  them. 

About  nine  o'clock,  A.  M.,  Queen  Pomare,  was  seen 
moving  in  state  along  the  beach,  escorted  by  her  body 
guards,  numbering  over  a  hundred,  who,  at  the  distance 
we  viewed  them,  presented  a  very  imposing  pageant. 
Before  the  procession,  were  borne  the  royal  standards  of 
Tahiti,  red,  white  and  red,  in  horizontal  bars;  then 
followed  the  queen  and  king,  and  after  them,  their  dash- 
ing soldiery  two  by  two,  "in  proportione  perturbata,"  as 
the  geometricians  say.  The  rear  was  brought  up  by  all 
who  could  make  any  pretensions  to  decency  of  appear- 
ance, the  whole  procession  extending  to  a  great  distance 
along  the  beach,  and  in  this  order  moving  slowly  along 
towards  the  church.  Soon  after  they  had  passed,  Cap- 
tain Spring  and  I  directed  our  steps  thither,  and  entered 
a  large  thatched  building  situated  upon  the  beach  within 
a  few  yards  of  the  water.  The  body  of  the  church  was 
occupied  by  the  queen  and  the  military,  and  the  galleries 

24* 


282  TAHITI. 

principally  by  women.  We  took  seats  near  the  pulpit 
in  full  view  of  her  majesty  and  her  retinue.  Queen 
Pomare  is  a  good  looking  woman,  of  a  light  olive  com- 
plexion, with  very  dark  expressive  eyes,  and  black  hair. 
In  person,  she  is  about  the  medium  height,  and  is  rather 
inclined  to  embonpoint,  and  as  she  stood  up  several 
times  during  the  service,  she  rose  with  an  air  of  dignity 
that  was  truly  royal.  She  wore  a  white  satin  hat, 
flaring  open  and  flattened  upon  the  upper  rim,  after  the 
Tahitian  style,  trimmed  with  broad  satin  ribbon  and  then 
surmounted  by  three  white  ostrich  feathers.  Her  dress 
was  of  satin  or  figured  silk,  of  a  pink  color,  with  slippers 
to  correspond.  The  husband  of  the  queen,  Pomare-tanc, 
"  Pomare's-man"  as  he  is  usually  called,  sustains  the  rela- 
tion of  a  prince  Albert  to  the  government.  He  is  a  young 
man,  of  about  twenty  one  years  of  age,  while  her  majesty 
is  not  far  from  thirty,  a  disparity  on  the  side  of  the  lady, 
highly  averse  to  our  notions  of  propriety.  In  the  affairs 
of  the  government,  he  has  no  power,  as  he  was  an  infe- 
rior chief  before  his  marriage  with  Pomare,  but  in  do- 
mestic matters,  is  very  tenacious  of  his  rights.  Pomare- 
tane  is  a  good  looking  man,  with  very  much  of  the  bon 
vivant  in  his  appearance,  and  an  easy  good  humored 
way  about  him.  Although  so  young,  his  hair  is  very 
grey,  an  indication  of  age,  prematurely  developed  I  doubt 
not,  by  the  repeated  floggings  he  received  from  her 
majesty  many  years  since,  when  he  was  but  a  mere  boy ; 
occurrences  entirely  contrary  to  the  order  of  nature. 
Pomare-tane.  however,  was  very  restive  under  her  author- 
ity, and  stimulated  by  the  foreigners,  had  many  desper- 
ate contests  with  his  spouse,  until  she  was  compelled  to 
succumb  to  his  superior  prowess.  Since  then,  if  reports 
speak  true,  he  has  not  only  administered  wholesome 
chastisement  for  offences  coming  under  his  immedia 


■ 


(iUEEN    POM  ARE.  283 

supervision,  but  repays  with  compound  interest,  her 
maternal  care  over  him  in  his  boyish  days.  Invested 
in  a  brilliant  crimson  uniform,  decked  with  gold  epau- 
lets, a  sword  at  his  side  and  his  chapeau  surmounted  by 
white  ostrich  feathers,  his  majesty  presented  a  highly 
imposing  appearance.  It  would  have  been  a  matter  of 
deep  envy  to  all  hen-pecked  husbands,  acquainted  with 
the  past  history  of  his  household,  to  have  witnessed  with 
what  utter  nonchalance  his  majesty  attended  his  royal 
spouse,  appearing  entirely  regardless  of  her  presence. 

The  officers  of  the  royal  household,  eight  or  ten  in 
number  perhaps,  were  dressed  in  uniforms,  but  of  various 
colors  and  fashions,  which  had  been  adopted,  as  chance, 
or  the  visit  of  some  man  of  war,  gave  them  an  opportu- 
nity for  purchasing.  White  pantaloons  were  indulged 
in  by  all,  but  the  state  of  them  indicated  either  a  ludi- 
crous deficiency  of  material,  or  a  peculiar  taste  for  imita- 
ting small  clothes,  which  they  were  essentially,  as  far  as 
regards  dimensions.  One  or  two  of  these  worthies  wore 
a  pair  of  stockings,  but  most  of  them  inserted  their  feet 
into  thick  leather  boxes,  without  any  intervening  obsta- 
cle. The  garb  of  one  of  these  gentleman  struck  me  as 
entirely  anomalous.  It  consisted  of  a  clergyman's  black 
coat,  of  a  most  peaceful  character,  transmuted  into  the 
"  horrid  aspect  of  war,"  by  means  of  sundry  red  stripes 
about  half  an  inch  wide  bounding  the  outline  of  the  coat, 
around  which  was  buckled  a  bright  red  sword  belt,  a 
combination  of  colors  that  was  quite  enchanting.  The 
officers  of  the  queen's  guards  are  undoubtedly  the  high- 
est chiefs  of  the  nation,  no  very  illustrious  personages, 
one  would  infer  from  the  fact,  that  they  have  been  seen 
paddling  off  to  a  man-of-war,  with  nothing  but  a  maro 
around  the  waist,  to  solicit  the  privilege  of  washing  the 
clothes  of  any  one  who  would  favor  them  with  his  pat- 


284  TAHITI. 

ronage,  from  the  officer  who  promenaded  the  quarter 
deck,  down  to  jack  before  the  mast.  These  are  speci- 
mens of  much  of  the  nobility  of  the  Pacific  Islands. 
Behind  the  officers  were  seated  the  privates,  with  an 
approach  towards  similarity  in  their  uniforms,  which 
were  blue,  and  at  a  distance,  would  have  appeared  very 
well,  but  whose  diversity  of  trimming  was  revealed  by 
our  proximity.  Some  of  these  coats  were  buttoned 
together ;  others  had  fastenings  of  hooks  and  eyes,  and 
not  a  few,  were  held  together  by  the  ingenious  device  of 
drawing  a  threaded  needle  from  side  to  side,  which  from 
appearances,  must  have  taken  wonderful  strides  in  many 
instances.  The  nether  garments  of  the  soldiery,  were 
always  white,  but  in  many  instances,  prepared  without 
observing  this  invariable  law  of  nature,  that  a  large  man 
requires  garments  of  corresponding  proportions.  The 
ingenuity  one  of  these  displayed  in  devising  expedients 
was  highly  creditable  to  him.  By  some  miscalculation, 
his  coat  and  pantaloons,  when  adjusted  to  his  person, 
were  found  not  to  be  within  six  inches  of  one  another, 
which  disclosed  a  "hiatus  valde  deflendus,"  between 
the  top  of  his  nether  garments,  and  the  edge  of  his  coat. 
In  this  crisis,  he  had  procured  a  large  black  silk  necker- 
chief, which  encircling  his  waist,  and  secured  in  a  huge 
knot  in  front,  effectually  concealed  the  unskil fulness  of 
his  tailor.  The  soldiers,  agreeably  to  the  advice  of  the 
missionaries,  leave  their  muskets  at  their  quarters,  upon 
the  Sabbath,  and  carry  nothing  but  ramrods.  Their 
principal  employment,  as  well  as  that  of  their  officers, 
appeared  to  be  in  criticising  and  admiring  the  peculiar 
taste  each  one  had  displayed,  in  the  decoration  of  his 
uniform.  Queen  Pomare  seemed  to  be  extremely 
anxious  to  exhibit  her  soldiery  advantageously,  and 
many  were  the  searching  looks  she  darted  in  among 


aUEEN     POMARE.  285 

them,  to  see  if  any  were  indulging  in  their  propensity  to 
avail  themselves  of  the  occasion,  for  repose.  The  con- 
gregation was  rather  disorderly,  owing  to  the  constant 
restlessness  of  some,  who  were  running  in  and  out  of 
the  church  every  few  minutes.  Tahitians  are  extremely 
fond  of  dress  and  show,  and  although  the  maintenance 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty  men — of  which  the  royal  body 
guard  consists — is  impoverishing  the  nation,  yet  they 
are  not  discontended,  as  their  ruling  passion  is  gratified. 
The  queen  is  constantly  endeavoring  to  augment  the 
grandeur  of  her  appearance,  much  to  the  injury  of  the 
finances  of  her  government,  and  notwithstanding  the 
heavy  expense  she  incurred  in  the  equipment  of  this 
body  of  men,  she  has  sent  orders  to  Sydney,  in  New 
Holland,  for  additional  articles.  Her  principal  object  at 
present,  in  collecting  together,  and  keeping  under  arms 
so  large  a  body  of  men — large  in  proportion  to  the  popu- 
lation—is for  the  purpose  of  making  a  grand  display  in 
an  intended  excursion  to  some  of  the  leeward  islands, 
which  has  been  determined  upon  every  few  days  for  the 
last  six  weeks,  and  as  often  postponed.  Several  days 
after  seeing  her  at  church,  we  were  alarmed  on  board 
the  Flora,  by  the  discharge  of  artillery  at  intervals  of 
every  few  minutes,  the  rolling  drums,  and  the  gathering 
of  a  dense  throng  of  natives  upon  the  beach,  in  gay  cos- 
tumes. The  three  or  four  small  vessels,  belonging  to 
her  majesty,  were  crowded  to  overflowing,  the  sails  were 
hoisted,  and  the  national  colors  were  gaily  waving 
from  masthead,  when  an  unlooked  for  obstacle  presented 
itself,  which  put  a  stop  to  all  further  proceedings.  In 
the  eagerness  for  commencing  the  excursion,  the  idea 
did  not  occur  that  these  little  vessels  might  not  possess 
sufficiently  ample  dimensions  for  the  large  retinue  that 
were  to  attend  her  majesty,  and  it  was  not  until  it  was 


286  T  A  II  I  T  I . 

demonstrated,  in  the  present  instance,  that  the  fact  was 
apparent,  and  the  expedition  was,  of  necessity,  postponed, 
much  to  the  chagrin  of  her  majesty.  So  desirous  is  she 
of  making  a  constant  display,  that  she  never  appears  in 
public,  without  being  followed  by  half  a  dozen  soldiers, 
who  step  with  a  becoming  consciousness  of  their  proxim- 
ity to  royalty.  On  a  subsequent  day,  when  she  was 
returning  to  Papeete  from  a  visit  to  point  Venus,  the 
attempt  at  magnificence  had  a  semblance  of  the  ludicrous. 
As  soon  as  the  royal  barge — in  this  case,  a  whaleboat, 
was  seen  entering  the  bay,  with  the  national  ensign 
waving  proudly  over  her  Tahitian  majesty,  a  salute  was 
fired  by  one  of  her  loyal  subjects,  who  was  stationed 
upon  the  beach  with  a  musket  in  his  hand,  which  he 
continued  to  load  and  discharge  with  as  much  rapidity 
as  possible,  until  her  majesty  reached  the  shore,  exhibit- 
ing the  most  praiseworthy  zeal  upon  the  occasion. 
Pomare  is  a  constant  attendant  upon  church,  but  is 
scrupulously  careful  to  appear  in  the  afternoon,  in  a 
different  dress  from  the  one  she  assumed  in  the  morning. 
This  is  however,  the  prevailing  fashion  among  the  elite 
of  Tahiti,  in  which  respect,  they  imitate  the  fashionables 
at  some  of  our  watering  places,  whose  constant  study,  in 
some  instances,  appears  to  be,  the  acquisition  of  the 
cameleon-like  property,  of  changing  the  hue  of  their 
garb  every  time  they  appear  in  public.  The  Tahitians 
are  a  finer  looking  race  than  the  Hawaiians ;  for  their 
features  are  more  regular  and  their  complexion  is  of  a 
lighter  shade  of  color.  The  men  are  generally  tall  and 
well  formed,  and  the  women  are  many  of  them,  very 
pretty,  with  their  long  dark  hair  hanging  gracefully  over 
their  shoulders,  relieved  by  some  bright  flower  inter- 
woven with  their  tresses;  and  my  taste  for  the  beautiful 
was  in  no  instance  shocked  with  ugliness,  as  was  fre- 


TAHITIAN    SOLDIERS.  287 

quently  the  case  at  the  Hawaiian  islands.  It  is  as- 
tonishing at  what  an  early  age  they  arrive  at  maturi- 
ty. I  saw  numbers  of  them  afterwards,  whose  ages 
were  far  from  what  I  should  have  judged  from  their 
appearance  ;  for  they  look  older  at  thirteen,  than  Ame- 
rican women  do  at  the  age  of  twenty-three  or  twenty- 
five.  At  the  church,  the  congregation  was  very  well 
dressed,  and  presented  a  neat  appearance  that  was 
highly  creditable  to  them.  The  singing  was  very  de- 
lightful, although  it  was  entirely  unlike  any  thing  I 
have  ever  heard  before.  The  Tahitians  have  such  a 
natural  faculty  for  music,  that  they  not  only  catch  a 
tune  with  readiness,  but  even  adapt  symphonious  parts 
to  it ;  and  their  voices  blend  together  in  a  strange, 
but  agreeable  harmony.  The  church  is  a  large  and 
convenient  edifice,  and  the  rafters  and  frame  work 
supporting  the  roof  are  concealed  in  part,  by  orna- 
mental matting  extending  ten  or  fifteen  feet  upwards 
from  the  wall. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  services,  the  soldiery  were  ex- 
tended from  the  church  door  in  two  parallel  rows,  facing 
inwards,  between  which  the  royal  party  marched  to  the 
head  of  the  column,  and  then  led  the  way  in  solemn  state, 
along  the  beach,  through  the  dust  and  over  the  stones, 
shells  and  bones,  strewn  plentifully  in  their  path,  instead 
of  a  direct  course  to  the  "palace"  by  a  delightful  road, 
which  led  along  under  the  cool  bread-fruit^groves.  This 
preference  had  no  other  object  than  to  present  an  impo- 
sing pageant  to  the  shipping  at  anchor  in  the  harbor. 

In  company  with  a  friend,  I  took  a  walk  through  the 
lovely  grove  back  of  the  beach,  to  the  "  palace,"  by  which 
appellation  the  queen's  residence  is  known  to  the  foreign 
residents.     It  is  the  largest  house  in  Papeete,  though  but 


288  TAHITI. 

one  story  high,  running  up  in  a  peaked  roof  of  thatch, 
and  having  a  wide  piazza  extending  entirelyacross  the 
front.  It  is  situated  within  an  enclosure  of  green  grass, 
and  presents  a  somewhat  pretty  appearance,  although  as 
a  royal  residence  it  would  be  thought  rather  humble. 
At  the  gate  were  lounging  three  sentinels,  whose  attitudes 
indicated  a  judicious  regard  to  their  personal  comfort. 
As  the  royal  cortege  had  not  yet  come  in  sight,  we  seat- 
ed ourselves  in  the  piazza  to  await  its  approach,  and  be- 
fore long  it  was  seen  deploying  through  the  trees.  The 
officers  of  the  household  came  first,  who  separated  at  the 
entrance,  and  walking  in  solemn  style  up  to  the  door 
step,  faced  inwards,  with  hats  doffed,  while  Queen  Po- 
mare  and  Pomare-tane  passed  between  them,  and  took 
their  seats  in  the  piazza,  as  the  soldiery  were  arranging 
themselves  in  the  form  of  a  crescent  upon  the  green 
sward  in  front  of  us.  Meanwhile  I  shook  hands  with 
the  king,  with  whom  I  had  previously  been  made  ac- 
quainted, and  was  then  presented  to  her  Tahitian  majes- 
ty, by  my  friend.  The  «  presentation"  was  divested  of 
any  court  formalities,  and  consisted  in  merely  shaking 
hands,  and  saying  li  Your  honor  boy,"  which  is  the  ex- 
act sound,  when  spoken  rapidly,  of  the  native  salutation, 
"iaoranaoe,"  or  "peace  be  with  you."  Her  majes- 
ty was  not  very  communicative,  as  all  her  attention  was 
absorbed  in  watching  the  movements  of  her  guards,  and 
in  refreshing  herself  with  plentiful  draughts  from  a  co- 
coanut  which  had  been  brought  to  her  the  moment 
she  arrived,  while  Pomare-tane  produced  some  cigars, 
and  offering  one  to  me,  adjusted  himself  for  smoking 
with  the  utmost  tranquility.  In  imitation  of  the 
queen,  I  called  for  a  cocoanut  and  refreshed  myself 
with  its  delicious  beverage,  entertaining  the  most  be- 


CHAPEL.  289 

nevolent  wishes  for  the  prosperity  of  Her  Tahiti  an 
Majesty. 

The  soldiers,  as  I  have  before  said,  were  marshalling 
themselves  in  a  semicircle  in  front  of  the  palace,  to  be 
reviewed  by  the  queen.  At  the  word  of  command,  they 
succeeded  in  averting  their  faces,  although  some  of  them 
manifested  a  strong  indecision  of  mind,  with  regard  to 
those  opposite  positions  of  the  body,  "  front"  and  "  rear." 
After  going  through  the  intricate  maneuvres  of  present- 
ing their  faces  and  their  backs  to  the  royal  vision,  they 
were  dismissed,  and  my  friend  and  I  took  our  leave  of 
their  majesties. 

Feeling  rather  unwell,  I  went  aboard  the  ship,  and 
did  not  attend  service  at  the  foreign  chapel  on  that  day, 
but  upon  the  succeeding  Sabbath  evening,  I  made  my 
way  thither.  The  foreign  chapel  is  a  little  wooden 
building,  painted  white,  and  is  situated  close  upon  the 
beach.  It  is  not  plastered  within,  and  its  general  appear- 
ance would  remind  one,  of  those  rude  edifices  for  wor- 
ship found  in  some  of  the  Southern  and  Western  states 
of  the  Union,  of  so  dubious  an  aspect,  that  the  traveller 
is  doubtful  what  may  have  been  the  original  intentions 
of  the  builders,  whether  they  had  a  barn  or  a  meeting- 
house in  contemplation,  in  their  architectural  designs. 
The  service  was  conducted  by  a  Mr.  Howe,  no  ways  re- 
markable, I  should  judge,  except  for  his  plump,  John 
Bull  person,  and  for  the  use  of  the  word  "circumstan- 
ces," which  recurred  not  less  than  forty  or  fifty  times, 
during  the  varied  performances.  The  hymns  were  sung 
in  that  primitive  style,  which  obtained  when  hymn- 
books  were  a  rarity,  the  preacher  reading  two  lines  to  be 
sung  by  the  congregation,  and  then  two  more,  and  so  on 
through  the  hymn.     The  music  was  tolerably  good,  but 

as 


290  TAHITI. 

widely  different  in  style  from  our  own  church  music, 
the  general  tenor  of  which  is  more  plaintive  and  pos- 
sesses a  higher  degree  of  sentiment  than  theirs^ 
which  is  more  rapid,  but  less  expressive.  Upon  the 
whole,  I  was  well  pleased  with  the  exercises,  and  the 
audience  appeared  to  be  so,  by  the  attention  they 
manifested. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

TAHITI. 


Police — Coral — Fishing  by  Torchlight — Diseases — Annoyances 
— Moonlight  at  Papeete — Shaving  the  head — Native  costume 
— Novel  engineering — Climbing  the  Cocoanut  tree. 


The  principal  power  of  the  nation  is  vested  in  seven 
judges,  who  constitute  a  supreme  court  of  appeal,  and,  I 
have  been  informed,  have  even  power  enough  to  try  the 
king  and  queen  for  criminal  offences.  Next  to  these  are 
the  police  officers,  a  numerous  class,  whose  particular 
province  it  is  to  make  domiciliary  visits  to  check  the  er- 
ratic propensities  of  the  natives  during  the  night.  They 
are  pronounced  to  be  a  band  of  great  rascals,  as  well  as 
the  patrol,  a  gang  of  night  walkers  who  wander  about 
Papeete,  and  catch  up  any  unlucky  wight  they  may  hap- 
pen to  come  across,  and  convey  him  to  the  guard  house 
for  the  night.  A  gun  is  fired  at  eight  o'clock,  and  anoth- 
er follows  at  a  quarter  of  an  hour  afterwards,  when  these 
desperadoes  sally  forth  in  different  directions  with  all 
avidity  for  their  prey.  If  any  of  them  are  successful  a 
shrill  whistle  is  heard,  at  which  they  gather  around  the 
captive,  and  he  is  walked  off  into  durance  vile,  the  pa- 
trol keeping  step  in  regular  cadence.  The  next  morn- 
ing, the  prisoner  is  informed  in  the  most  delicate  man- 
ner, that  wayfaring  men  cannot  be  sought  after  so  dili- 
gently, and  provided  with  a  night's  lodging  without  ade- 
quate compensation,  two  dollars,  for  instance.     The  pe- 


292  TAHITI. 

culiar  tramp  of  the  gang  along  the  beach,  and  the  hissing 
"  whish — whish  !"  which  accompanied  their  step,  always 
informed  us  aboard  the  Flora,  that  a  prisoner  was  under 
conveyance  to  his  quarters.  This  order  of  police  was 
instituted  a  short  time  since,  to  prevent  the  nocturnal  sal- 
lies of  seamen  from  the  ships,  but  these  zealous  execu- 
tors of  the  law,  find  it  very  difficult  to  discriminate.  Not- 
withstanding their  enthusiasm,  which  induces  them  to 
adopt  too  strict  a  construction  of  the  law,  in  many  in- 
stances, these  worthy  citizens  have  accomplished  some 
good  in  the  purification  of  public  morals. 

The  language  of  the  Tahitians  is  similar  to  the  Ha- 
waiian, and  many  words  are  the  same  in  both — a  most 
remarkable  circumstance  when  it  is  recollected  that  Ta- 
hiti and  the  Hawaiian  islands  are  about  two  thousand 
three  hundred  miles  apart.  Similarity  of  language 
among  the  various  islanders  of  Polynesia,  has  given  rise 
to  many  interesting  speculations  relating  to  the  exist- 
ence upon  islands  so  widely  remote  from  one  another  of 
different  people  having  a  common  origin. 

At  the  head  of  the  bay,  the  water  is  shallow,  close  in 
shore,  and  so  clear  that  the  beautiful  coral  trees  growing 
upon  the  bottom,  were  distinctly  seen.  The  corals  and 
madripores  are  of  every  variety  of  form  and  color,  and 
some  of  them  are  extremely  beautiful.  I  often  amused 
myself  by  stopping  in  the  boat  over  these  fantastic  for- 
ests, and  hooking  up  as  many  specimens  of  coral  as  I 
could  take  care  of.  Some  of  them  resembled  blown 
sugar  in  appearance  and  structure,  and  were  tinged  with 
many  exquisite  hues  of  green,  red  and  purple.  There 
were  also  many  varieties  of  fish  to  diversify  the  picture  ; 
the  most  numerous,  were  little  fish  about  an  inch  long, 
of  a  splendid  blue  tint,  that  seemed  like  sapphires  flitting 
about  in  the  coraline  forest  below. 


FISHING.  293 

There  are  but  few  canoes  at  Papeete,  and  these  are 
long,  misshapen  things,  and,  except  in  size,  far  inferior  to 
the  canoes  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  Some  of  them 
were  large,  carrying  huge  sails  made  of  mats,  which 
would  instantly  have  upset  them,  did  not  those  who 
were  navigating  them,  stretch  themselves  far  out  upon 
the  outriggers  of  their  frail  craft,  which  are  impelled 
forwards  with  great  velocity,  dashing  the  spray  high 
into  the  air.  The  natives  carry  on  their  fishing  opera- 
tions principally  by  torchlight,  and  every  evening,  soon 
after  dark,  bright  lights  were  seen  gleaming  over  the 
glassy  surface  of  the  bay,  occasionally  shooting  out 
brilliant  scintillations,  that  disclosed  more  vividly  the 
dark  figures  of  the  natives  in  their  canoes.  Sometimes 
they  were  ranged  in  a  long  line  not  far  from  the  reef; 
and  then  they  dispersed,  gliding  noiselessly  with  their 
glaring  torches.  Each  canoe  usually  contained  two 
men,  one  to  direct  its  movements,  and  the  other,  who 
stood  in  the  bow,  to  carry  the  torch,  by  which  the  fish 
were  attracted  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  were  then 
struck  by  the  spear  which  was  darted  with  unerring 
aim.  They  sometimes  came  close  up  to  the  ship,  and  I 
saw  several  fish  with  bright  silvery  sides,  taken  in  this 
way.  This  sport  they  continue  to  a  late  hour  of  the 
night,  and  are  generally  successful,  but  they  very  rarely 
offer  their  fish  for  sale  at  the  residences  of  the  foreigners, 
who  consider  them  highly  delicious.  Two  of  our  pas- 
sengers, the  day  before  we  sailed  from  Papeete,  partook 
freely  of  some  fine  fish  at  the  house  of  one  of  the  foreign 
residents,  and  a  few  hours  afterwards,  were  seized  with 
excruciating  pain  and  distress,  accompanied  with  deadly 
nausea.  The  attack  continued  for  two  or  three  hours, 
with  scarcely  any  alleviation,  and  then  passed  off  grad- 
ually, leaving  them  very  much  debilitated.     Of  those 

25* 

W 
I 


£94  TAHITI. 

who  partook  of  the  fish,  none  beside  these  were  unpleas- 
antly affected,  and  the  conclusion  was,  that  the  poison- 
ous properties  of  the  fish  resided  in  some  particular  part, 
which  was  eaten  by  the  sufferers.  Such  attacks  are  very 
common  among  the  natives,  and  are  analogous  to  those 
that  occurred  on  board  the  Flora,  in  her  passage 
down  from  Honolulu,  with  the  exception  of  nausea 
which  was  not  present  in  the  latter.  There  is  a  singular 
relationship  subsisting  among  the  Tahitians,  called 
"  Friends,"  which  implies  that  individuals,  whether  of 
the  same  or  the  opposite  sex,  conceiving  a  fancy  for  one 
another,  unite  in  a  covenant  of  inviolable  friendship, 
which  requires  either  party  to  assist  the  other  in  all 
emergencies,  and  to  be  faithful  to  his  interests.  This 
obligation  also  involves  the  necessity  of  frequent  presents, 
a  source  of  great  annoyance  to  the  foreign  residents, 
happening  to  have  a  "  friend,"  who  has  no  hesitation  in 
signifying  his  desire  to  possess  any  article  belonging  to 
the  other  that  he  may  fancy,  an  appeal  which  must  be 
complied  with,  by  every  law  of  politeness  existing 
among  them. 

Scrofulous  complaints  are  very  prevalent  among 
those  that  live  on  the  island  of  Tahiti,  both  foreigners 
and  natives.  I  saw  several  instances  of  large  tumors 
upon  the  neck,  and  heard  of  many  cases  of  those  who 
were  reduced  to  the  last  stages  of  misery  by  these  terrible 
deformities.  A  gentleman  expressed  his  opinion,  that 
these  glandular  disorders  were  undoubtedly  to  be  attrib- 
uted to  the  peculiar  nature  of  the  water  in  the  rills 
descending  the  mountains,  a  cause  analogous  to  what 
I  have  somewhere  read,  as  assigned  for  the  prevalence 
of  similar  disorders  among  the  mountains  of  Switzerland. 
The  elephantiasis,  a  most  singular  deformity,  bloating 
up  the  muscles  of  the  limbs  to  twice  their  ordinary  size, 


PAPEETE    BAY.  295 

is  no  uncommon  disease.  An  instance  came  under  my 
observation,  of  a  man  whose  lower  limbs  were  swollen 
to  prodigious  dimensions,  so  that  he  presented  a  most 
uncouth  figure,  particularly  in  walking.  It  is  rarely 
painful,  but  the  deformity  of  the  appearance,  and  the 
task  of  transporting  such  a  mass  of  superfluous  matter, 
must  be  highly  afflictive  to  the  sufferer. 

Our  original  intention  in  stopping  at  Tahiti,  was  to 
land  one  or  two  of  our  passengers  with  their  effects,  and 
then  to  put  to  sea  as  soon  as  possible,  after  procuring 
supplies  of  various  kinds.  But  instead  of  being  detained 
but  a  day  or  two,  we  did  not  get  away  from  Papeete  in 
less  than  two  weeks,  Captain  S.  having  determined  to 
take  aboard  the  Flora,  the  oil  belonging  to  the  Alex- 
ander Mansfield.  Meanwhile,  all  the  passengers,  took 
up  their  residence  on  shore,  wherever  they  could  find 
accommodations,  except  myself,  who  paid  dearly  for  my 
preference  of  the  ship.  We  then  hauled  up  alongside 
the  dismantled  whaler,  within  a  few  rods  of  shore,  to 
receive  her  cargo,  consisting  of  a  thousand  barrels  of  oil. 

Papeete  bay  is  on  the  lee  side  of  Tahiti,  as  I  before 
observed,  and  the  lofty  mountains  that  rise  in  the  back 
ground,  almost  entirely  interrupt  the  cool  trade  wind 
which  is  so  grateful  in  the  tropics,  and  the  sun  beats 
down  in  all  his  intensity  upon  the  shipping  in  the  bay, 
although  on  shore,  the  temperature  is  very  agreeable  in 
the  shady  bread-fruit  groves.  On  board  the  Flora,  the 
refreshing  sea  breeze,  blowing  in  from  the  westward,  was 
intercepted  by  the  cook's  galley  and  the  long  boat,  so 
that  scarcely  a  breath  of  air  mitigated  the  scorching 
heat  that  pervaded  the  quarter  deck.  The  thermometer, 
suspended  in  the  companion  way,  stood  as  high  as  98°, 
and  the  deck  became  heated  to  such  a  degree,  that  the 
temperature  of  the  cabin  was  like  that  of  a  furnace. 


296  TAHITI. 

Besides  this  burning  heat  that  was  almost  suffocating, 
swarms  of  venomous  musquitoes  harassed  me  during  the 
night  with  their  stings  and  incessant  buzzing,  so  that  my 
anticipations  of  spending  the  night,  were  deplorable 
enough.  To  give  some  idea  of  their  number,  I  will  just 
mention  what  destruction  ensued  among  them  at  our 
vengeful  hands.  Captain  S.,  killed  over  a  hundred  in 
one  day,  and  I  destroyed  so  many  that  I  lost  my  reckon- 
ing of  them  altogether.  Their  virulence  was  as  remark- 
able  as  their  numbers,  for  while  we  were  congratulating 
ourselves  upon  their  having  taken  their  flight  from  not 
having  heard  them  for  some  time,  they  would  suddenly 
"start  up  like  hydras  from  every  corner,"  and  attack  us 
with  a  perseverance  and  determination  that  made  us 
desperate.  To  escape  the  intense  heat  on  board  ship,  I 
rambled  among  the  bread-fruit  and  cocoa-nut  groves, 
whose  cool  shades  were  most  delightfully  reviving. 
Most  of  my  walks  were  taken  very  early  in  the  morning, 
before  the  sun  was  up,  and  nothing  could  be  more 
refreshing,  after  the  adventures  of  the  night,  than  a 
ramble  among  these  cool  groves,  shaded  with  the  dark 
broad  leaves  of  the  bread-fruit  tree,  or  the  waving  cocoa- 
nut,  and  varied  by  the  orange  and  lime  with  their  rich 
yellow  fruit,  and  the  bright  green  of  the  banana.  The 
stillness  of  the  hour,  the  invigorating  air,  and  the  merry 
notes  of  the  birds,  impressed  me  with  the  liveliest  emo- 
tions of  pleasure.  But  after  the  sun  had  set  beyond  the 
mountain  peaks  of  Eimeo,  and  the  fair  moon, 

11  Apparent  queen,  unveiled  her  peerless  light, 
And  o'er  the  dark  her  silvery  mantle  threw," 

a  scene  of  enchantment  bursts  upon  the  view,  such  as 
one's  early  imagination  may  have  pictured  to  himself, 
while  roaming  in  fancy  to  the  fairy  isles  of  the  Pacific 
The  moon  rising  from  the  dark  mountains  above,  wit 


' 


THE     NATIVES.  297 

a  brilliancy  unknown  without  the  tropics,  tinges  the 
prominent  trees  of  the  groves,  and  brings  their  outline 
vividly  to  view,  deepening  their  shades,  and  giving  to  the 
cocoa-nut  trees  a  strangely  fantastic  appearanee.  The 
still  waters  of  the  bay  reflect  her  beams  from  its  glassy 
surface,  in  which,  along  the  well  defined  margin  of  the 
shore,  the  tall  trees  are  seen  depicted  with  the  vividness 
of  magic.  The  fisherman's  torch,  gliding  slowly  along, 
seems  to  struggle  with  her  overpowering  beams,  and  as 
she  mounts  towards  the  zenith,  she  pours  in  a  flood  of 
mellow  light  upon  the  ocean  that  sullenly  roars  upon 
the  reef  without,  and  upon  the  silent  earth,  tinging  the 
dark  grove,  and  gentle  hillock,  and  tall  mountain  peaks, 
and  rendering  all  nature  a  fairy  scene.  From  the  shore 
too,  we  were  charmed  with  the  singing  of  the  natives, 
which  rose  upon  the  still  evening  air  with  a  harmony 
like  soft  voices  mingling  in  perfect  concert  with  instru- 
mental music.  The  singing  of  the  natives  has  a  slight 
nasal  twang,  that  gives  it  a  sound  similar  to  instru- 
mental music,  and  their  voices  chord  together  in  a  har- 
mony unlike  any  thing  I  have  ever  heard  before.  In 
this  respect,  the  Tahitians  far  surpass  the  Hawaiians, 
whose  monotonous  cadences,  as  they  passed  my  room 
at  Honolulu,  were  very  annoying.  Many  of  the  Tahi- 
tian  tunes  are  variations  of  old  tunes  familiar  with  us* 
"  God  save  the  King,"  and  a  sacred  tune  called  "  Cam- 
bridge," were  readily  recognized ;  and  there  were  several 
others,  which  I  found  were  old  acquaintances.  I  often 
wished  that  some  of  my  friends  in  the  United  States 
could  have  been  transported  to  Papeete  during  those 
glorious  evenings,  which  presented  a  picture  of  varied 
beauties,  the  tout  ensemble  approaching  nearer  to  a  scene 
of  enchantment,  than  any  thing  I  have  ever  before  wit- 
nessed, even   among  the  verdant  lawns   and  majestic 


298  TAHITI. 

elms,  of  loved  New  Haven.  The  foreign  residents  at 
Papeete  are  very  hospitable,  with  but  few  exceptions, 
and  give  you  carte  blanche  to  all  they  have.  There  are 
but  few  national  animosities  indulged  in,  such  as  are  too 
prevalent  at  Honolulu.  Their  interests  also,  are  an  ar- 
gument for  unanimity,  to  present  a  formidable  obstacle 
to  the  capricious  disposition  of  the  government.  They 
are  all  united  in  representing  the  native  character,  as  the 
worst  that  can  be  imagined ;  but  many  of  them  are  not 
very  solicitous  about  improving  it,  as  far  as  my  observa- 
tion extended.  There  are,  doubtless,  many  natives  of 
unexceptionable  moral  character,  and  many,  it  is  to  be 
hoped,  that  are  truly  pious  people,  but  the  tide  of  moral- 
ity is  at  a  very  low  ebb  at  Papeete. 

The  Tahitians,  with  many  other  islanders  of  the  Pa- 
cific, have  a  very  singular  fashion  of  shaving  their  heads 
close  to  the  skin,  with  the  exception  of  a  bushy  lock  just 
above  their  ears.  At  Tahiti,  before  razors  came  into  gen- 
eral use,  it  was  customary  to  perform  this  operation  with 
shark's  teeth,  an  extremely  painful  process ;  and  in  many  of 
the  other  islands  of  the  Pacific,  the  practice  is  still  continu- 
ed. I  could  hardly  discover  any  reason  for  this  singular 
practice,  especially  as  most  of  them  go  bareheaded,  exposing 
their  unprotected  craniums  to  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun. 
Fashion  is  apt  to  be  irrespective  of  comfort;  but  the  Tahi- 
tian  is  not  at  all  more  ridiculous  in  his  compliance  wit! 
the  fashions  of  his  country,  than  are  its  votaries  in  more 
enlightened  society,  whose  limping  gait  in  one  instance, 
and  impeded  respiration  in  another,  betray  the  penaltie 
they  are  inflicting  upon  themselves  for  their  subserviene 
to  its  dictates.  Besides,  as  a  matter  of  taste,  shaving  the 
face  is  no  greater  improvement  upon  nature,  that  I  a. 
perceive,  than  shaving  the  head.  Many  of  the  customs 
of  our  own  country  would  appear  ridiculous  to  one  who 


NATIVE    COSTUME.  299 

had  never  been  acquainted  with  them,  if  analyzed  by  a 
process  that  would  very  naturally  occur  to  his  mind. 

In  the  groves,  I  have  occasionally  fallen  in  with  Ta- 
hitians  that  were  at  work,  and  had  laid  their  garments 
aside,  displaying  very  beautiful  and  tasteful  figures  tat- 
tood  all  over  their  persons,  which  consisted  of  every  vari- 
ety of  curve,  as  well  as  of  sprigs  and  branches  of  trees, 
and  of  flowers  and  animals.  While  at  the  Hawaiian 
islands,  I  saw  some  instances  of  tattooing,  but  it  was  ve- 
ry limited  and  not  remarkably  pretty.  The  women  in 
general  were  slightly  tattood  around  the  ankle,  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  open-worked  hosiery.  At  Honolulu,  I  saw 
several  Marquesas  Islanders,  whose  faces  were  tattood 
in  every  imaginable  curve,  which  gave  their  faces  a 
most  grotesque  expression. 

The  costume  of  the  Tahitians  consists  of  a  kind  of 
mantle  which  covers  the  upper  part  of  the  person,  and 
reaches  do  a  n  to  the  parao,  a  piece  of  cloth  about  two 
yards  long,  which  is  wound  around  the  waist,  and  ex- 
tends just  below  the  knees.  The  parao  is  also  worn  by 
the  other  sex,  but  is  concealed  by  the  long  gown  that 
constitutes  the  female  costume.  The  men  as  would 
readily  be  supposed,  have  a  very  singular  aspect,  with 
their  calico  paraos  waving  in  the  wind  and  giving  to 
them  a  most  unmasculine  appearance.  A  naked  Tahi- 
tian  is  a  very  rare  object,  and  in  this  respect  they  are  far 
superior  to  their  brethren  of  the  Hawaiian  islands,  among 
whom,  specimens  of  the  "  human  form  divine,"  may  be 
seen  moving  about  in  every  direction  with  nothing  but 
the  maro  to  conceal  the  contour  of  their  figures.  If 
the  taste  of  the  Hawaiians  is  less  sensitive,  however, 
than  that  of  the  Tahitians,  they  have  the  advantage  in 
energy  and  industry,  over  their  petticoated  neighbors. 

One  afternoon  while  I  was  aboard  the  ship,  I  witness- 


300  TAHITI. 

ed  a  novel  exhibition  of  mechanical  power.  Within  a 
small  enclosure  upon  the  beach,  but  a  few  rods  off,  a 
dense  throng  of  natives  had  been  engaged  in  warm  dis- 
cussion, as  we  judged  by  the  animation  of  their  tones, 
when  all  of  them,  to  the  number  of  several  hundreds, 
proceeded  en  masse  to  a  short  distance  above  where  we 
lay,  and  then  another  eloquent  discussion  ensued,  which 
we  supposed  from  the  vehemence  of  their  actions,  in- 
volved the  consideration  of  some  affair  of  vital  import- 
ance to  the  existence  of  the  nation.  The  populace  seem- 
ed to  be  upon  the  eve  of  insurrection,  in  which  they 
were  about  to  inflict  summary  vengeance  upon  an  offend- 
er ;  and  the  idle  curiosity  with  which  we  first  watched 
their  movements,  assumed  a  deeper  interest,  as  we  saw 
them  gathering  with  violent  gesticulations,  around  a  stout 
framework  constructed  like  a  gallows,  and  we  looked  ea- 
gerly in  the  expectation  of  seeing  the  culprit  dragged 
from  the  throng,  and  condemned  to  instant  execution. 
In  an  hour  or  more,  our  doubts  and  apprehensions  were 
removed,  and  the  agitation  with  which  we  viewed  the 
scene,  subsided.  But  neither  the  shedding  of  blood,  nor 
violence  of  any  kind  was  in  contemplation,  but  the  re- 
moval of  a  large  log.  which  lay  at  the  water's  edge,  was 
determined  upon.  To  one  end  of  this,  a  strong  hawser 
was  secured,  and  then  two  or  three  hundred  of  them  ea- 
gerly seized  hold  of  it,  and  prepared  to  drag  it  along  the 
beach  to  the  place  of  its  destination.  The  arrangements 
were  made  with  loud  vociferations,  and  when  everything 
was  ready,  with  three  loud  cheers  that  resounded  simul- 
taneously throughout  the  multitude,  the  log  was  started 
from  its  repose,  and  moved  slowly  along  the  beach,  the 
throng  keeping  time  with  a  regular  cadence  of  their  feet, 
and  with  a  loud  hissing  sound  like  «  whish— whish  !" 
bursting  forth  from  the  crov/d  at  short  intervals.     The 


NOVEL    ENGINEERING.  301 

procession  was  directed  by  four  marshals,  who  ran  up 
and  down  the  lines  in  the  most  enthusiastic  manner, 
stimulating  them  with  the  poles  they  carried  by  right  of 
office  ;  while  the  fair  Tahitian  ladies,  attired  in  their  gay- 
est robes,  with  their  long  dark  tresses  decked  with  bright 
flowers,  and  their  brilliant  eyes  flashing  with  animation 
at  the  sight,  inspired  the  young  men  to  valorous  deeds. 
The  distance  to  the  place  where  the  log  was  deposited, 
was  rather  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  when  I 
considered  the  peculiar  mode  they  had  adopted  for  re- 
moving logs,  I  was  at  no  loss  in  accounting  for  their  ve- 
hement and  protracted  debate  upon  the  occasion.  It  was 
a  method,  I  confess,  which  would  not  readily  have  oc- 
curred to  any  one's  mind.  A  plan,  more  naturally  sug- 
gesting itself,  would  be  to  have  employed  rollers,  or  better 
still,  the  log  might  have  been  floated  to  any  required  place 
along  the  beach.  This  incident  exhibits  the  eloquence 
of  language  and  of  gesticulation  which  the  Polynesian 
islanders  throw  into  every  thing  that  interests  them, 
compared  with  which  our  conduct  appears  tame  and 
phlegmatic. 

In  one  of  my  morning  walks,  I  had  a  fine  opportunity 
of  witnessing  the  method  pursued  by  the  natives  in 
climbing  the  cocoanut  tree,  which,  as  I  have  before  ob- 
served, runs  up  in  a  branchless  and  leafless  trunk  to  the 
height  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet,  at  the  very  top  of  which  it 
is  crowned  with  broad  waving  leaves,  among  which  the 
fruit  is  found  adhering  to  the  trunk.  The  loftiness  of 
these  trees,  whose  branchless  aspect  makes  their  ascent 
appear  impracticable  to  a  novice,  was  evidently  intended 
by  nature  as  a  stimulus  to  the  sluggish  natives  of  tropi- 
cal climates,  where  she  has  displayed  herself  with  a  lux- 
uriance that  calls  for  but  little  exertion  to  obtain  the 
means  of  subsistence.     Desirous   of  obtaining  a  fine 

26 


302 


TAHITI 


bunch  of  cocoanuts  thai  were  growing  upon  the  summit 
of  one  of  the  loftiest  of  these  trees,  I  succeeded  in  coming 
to  terms  with  the  owner  of  them,  after  a  protracted  dis- 
cussion upon  the  terms  of  the  agreement.  The  natives 
of  Polynesia  never  transact  any  business,  however  un- 
important, without  having  canvassed  the  subject  to  the 
utmost  extent  of  which  it  is  susceptible,  and  the  plan  ot 
proceedings  is  definitely  settled,  when  nothing  more 
whatsoever  can  be  said  to  elucidate  the  subject.  In  this 
respect  they  resemble  many  of  our  legislators,  who  are 
frequently  not  contented  with  the  discusson  of  a  question, 
however  unimportant  in  its  bearing,  until  the  impossi- 
bility of  advancing  any  thing  more,  compels  them  to  put 
a  period  to  their  eloquence,  after  consuming  much  more 
time  than  the  importance  of  the  subject  ought  to  require. 
The  necessary  stipulations  being  made  with  the  own- 
er of  the  cocoanuts,  a  long  line  is  produced,  with  which, 
a  boy,  having  his  feet  fettered  with  a  short  rope,  so  that 
they  are  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  apart,  commences 
ascending  the  tree.  Pressing  his  feet  against  the  trunk, 
the  friction  of  the  rope  gives  him  a  good  foothold,  while 
with  his  hands  clasped  together  around  the  body  of  the 
tree,  he  vaults  upwards  with  surprising  agility,  and  dis- 
engages the  nuts  with  a  hatchet,  which  he  carries  up 
with  him,  and  lowers  them  down  with  the  rope.  There 
were  eight  or  ten  nuts  in  the  bunch,  for  which  I  paid  but 
twenty-five  cents,  a  sum  I  would  willingly  have  given, 
to  have  witnessed  the  activity  of  the  native  in  the  ascent 
of  the  tree. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

TAHITI. 

Fruits — Cocoanut  oil — Sugar — Guava — Breadfruit — Tide. 

Tahiti  produces  all  the  fruits  of  a  tropical  climate,  in 
the  utmost  abundance  and  luxuriance  of  growth.  Oran- 
ges of  the  most  delicious  quality,  are  sold  in  immense 
quantities,  at  the  rate  of  fifty  cents  per  hundred.  They 
are  prepared  so  as  to  keep  for  a  long  time  without  decay 
by  selecting  them  with  care  and  drying  them  in  the  sun, 
which  partially  evaporates  the  moisture  of  the  rind,  with- 
out impairing  the  juices  of  the  orange.  The  pine  apples 
of  Tahiti  are  excellent,  but  by  no  means  equal  to  those 
we  procured  at  Tacames,  while  I  was  in  the  North 
America.  Lemons  attain  a  very  large  size,  and  are  en- 
cased in  a  thick  rind,  and  lime  trees  are  so  numerous 
and  prolific,  that  hardly  a  ship  touches  here  without  pur- 
chasing a  quantity  of  lime  juice,  prepared  by  fermenting 
it  with  chalk,  which  removes  the  impurities,  and  enables 
it  to  keep  in  excellent  preservation  for  years.  Whalers, 
visiting  Papeete,  usually  purchase  a  barrel  or  more  ot 
this  article,  whose  anti-scorbutic  properties  are  well 
known,  for  the  benefit  of  their  crews  during  their  long 
voyages.  The  purchaser  must  have  a  sharp  eye  to  his 
own  interest,  for  the  sagacity  of  the  natives  teaches  them 


304  TAHITI. 

that  when  a  barrel  is  half  full  of  water,  only  half  as 
much  lime  juice  is  required  to  fill  it,  as  if  the  barrel  were 
empty.  The  citron  flourishes  extensively  upon  these 
islands,  and  is  similar  in  appearance  to  a  lemon,  with 
an  extremely  thick  rind,  which  is  the  only  part  appro- 
priated to  preserving.  The  East  India  citron,  such  as 
is  found  in  our  markets,  is  superior  however,  in  all  re- 
spects. The  vi  is  a  rough  tree,  in  aspect  somewhat  like 
the  oak,  and  sometimes  grows  to  a  great  size,  sending 
out  numerous  excrescences  from  its  trunk.  The  fruit 
very  nearly  resembles  our  egg-plumb  in  its  appearance. 
Of  the  banana  and  plantain  family,  there  are  numerous 
varieties.  They  are  sometimes  prepared  for  preserving 
by  cutting  them  into  slices,  and  drying  them  in  the  sun, 
which  covers  them  with  saccharine  matter  drawn  out  by 
the  heat.  There  is  a  variety  of  banana  or  plantain,  call- 
ed the  fei  ("fayee")  or  mountain  banana,  growing  wild 
in  the  mountains  and  highlands,  and  very  dissimilar  to 
the  other  kinds  except  in  shape.  It  rises  upward  from 
the  stalk,  instead  of  depending  downwards  from  it,  as  is 
the  case  in  the  other  kinds,  and  its  color  is  of  a  bright 
chrome  yellow,  with  a  rind  of  a  brilliant  red  tint.  The 
taste  of  the  boiled  fei,  reminds  one  of  our  parsnips ;  but 
it  is  unfit  to  be  eaten  raw,  and  I  thought  it  inferior  to  the 
other  varieties  of  the  banana.  The  taro  thrives  luxuri- 
antly  upon  all  these  islands,  and  consists  of  two  varieties 
one  of  which  requires  a  low,  marshy,  watery  soil,  and 
the  other  grows  upon  dryer  ground.  Poi  is  not  so  fa- 
vorite an  article  of  food  with  the  Tahitians  as  with  the 
Hawaiians,  among  whom  poi  and  fish  are  almost  the  on- 
ly articles  of  subsistence.  The  former,  however,  prepare 
a  delicious  compound  of  taro,  cocoanut,  and  bread-fruit 
called  poi-poij  and  another  made  of  feis,  taro,  bread-fruit 
and  cocoanut,  called  poi-maia:  both  of  which  have  a  v< 


1 


COCOANUT    OIL.  305 

ry  rich  and  agreeable  flavor.  The  cocoanut  grows  in 
immense  quantities  upon  Tahiti  and  the  adjacent  islands. 
The  natives  almost  always  take  the  nuts  from  the  trees 
for  eating,  when  they  are  yet  green,  at  a  period  of  ad- 
vancement, when  the  kernel  is  in  the  incipient  state  ot 
pulp,  and  the  shell  very  soft.  In  this  state,  they  can  be 
eaten  with  a  spoon,  and  contain  from  a  pint  to  a  quart  of 
slightly  acidulous,  and  most  refreshing  beverage.  So 
plentiful  are  cocoanuts,  that  1  saw  canoes  every  day,  la- 
den down  the  water's  edge  with  them,  traversing  the  bay, 
and  the  established  price  was  one  dollar  per  hundred. 
They  were  old  cocoanuts,  however,  and  the  principal 
use  to  which  they  were  applied,  was  in  obtaining  oil  from 
them.  For  this  purpose,  the  kernel  is  chopped  up  into 
fine  pieces,  and  placed*  in  a  trough,  which  is  inclined 
sufficiently  for  the  oil,  when  expelled  by  the  heat  of  the 
sun,  to  trickle  down  into  a  reservoir.  This  oil  is  used 
very  extensively  in  the  manufacture  of  soap,  and  for  lu- 
bricating machinery,  as  well  as  for  other  purposes.  Its 
value  in  the  manufacture  of  soap,  can  hardly  be  appre- 
ciated by  people  in  the  United  States,  among  whom,  a 
large  proportion  of  meat  in  their  diet,  supplies  the  soap 
dealer  with  soap-grease  in  abundance.  Throughout  the 
Pacific,  soap  is  usually  a  great  desideratum  ;  for  the  food 
of  the  natives,  consisting  principally,  of  fish  and  vegeta- 
bles, affords  them  nothing  out  of  which  to  make  this  es- 
sential article  of  domestic  economy.  The  greater  part  of 
the  cocoanut  oil,  is  exported  to  Sydney,  in  New  Holland, 
where  it  is  applied  to  various  purposes  of  the  arts.  A 
few  years  since,  the  annual  manufacture  of  cocoanut  oil 
exceeded  one  hundred  tons,  which  was  generally  sold  to 
foreigners  in  small  parcels  by  the  natives,  in  exchange 
for  articles  of  merchandize.  Now,  scarcely  any  is  pre- 
pared  from  the  immense  quantities  of  cocoanuts  that  fall 

26* 


306  TAHITI. 

from  the  trees,  owing  to  an  arbitrary  enactment  of  the 
government  which  forbids  the  natives  selling  any  nuts 
or  oil  to  foreigners,  unless  upon  receiving  a  stipulated 
amount  of  merchandize  for  a  certain  quantity  of  oil  or 
nuts.  The  consequence  is,  that  merchants  finding  the 
exchange  to  be  unprofitable  to  themselves  refuse  to 
purchase,  and  thus  the  preparation  of  the  oil  is  stopped. 

There  are  several  sugar  plantations  upon  these  islands, 
and  the  culture  of  the  cane  is  rapidly  extending  from 
year  to  year.  The  sugar  is  of  excellent  quality,  though 
it  is  damp,  the  process  of  drying,  after  granulating,  not 
being  well  understood.  During  the  past  year,  there 
were  one  hundred  and  seventy-four  tons  manufactured 
upon  Tahiti,  by  the  natives,  and  by  the  foreign  residents  ; 
but  in  the  manufacture  of  this  article,  the  Tahitians  are 
far  behind  their  brethren  of  the  north  Pacific,  as  they 
are  indeed  in  almost  every  thing  else.  The  sugar  and 
molasses  on  board  the  "  Flora,"  amounting  to  one  hun- 
dred tons  of  sugar,  and  eighty  casks  of  molasses — came 
from  the  island  of  Kauai,  and  is  but  a  portion  of  what 
was  manufactured  upon  that  island.  There  are  besides, ex- 
tensive cane  fields  upon  the  other  islands  of  the  Hawaiian 
group.  The  sugar  of  the  Hawaiian  islands  is  very  well 
manufactured,  and  is  put  up  in  bags  woven  out  of  rushes 
by  the  natives,  each  of  them  containing  from  fifty  to  seven- 
ty pounds.  This  sugar  has  almost  as  many  gradations  in 
in  hue  as  there  are  shades  of  color  in  the  human  race. 
There  is  the  clayed  sugar,  similar  to  the  white  Havana ; 
then  come  light  brown,  brown,  browner,  brownest,  in  a 
long  continued  series,  until  you  arrive  at  an  opacity  and 
blackness  of  color,  that  would  satisfy  the  most  rigid 
economist. 

The  guava  is  at  once  the  bane  and  blessing  of  Tahiti. 
That  its  prolific  and  erratic  nature  is  rapidly  usurping 


GUAVA.  307 

the  verdure  that  once  crowned  this  lovely  isle,  must  be 
apparent  to  the  most  careless  observer,  who  has  had  op- 
portunity to  witness  its  intruding  progress.  The  guava,  of 
which  the  world  cannot  present  finer  specimens,  grows 
upon  a  bush  from  six  to  twelve  feet  in  height,  which  in 
full  bearing  would  forcibly  remind  one  of  the  quinces  of 
New  England.  The  fruit  is  about  the  size  and  shape  ot 
a  quince,  and  is  of  a  brilliant  yellow  color,  shaded  with  a 
carmine  tinge.  Within,  there  is  a  cavity,  occupying  half 
the  dimensions  of  the  fruit,  which  is  filled  with  number- 
less seeds  about  the  size  of  grape  stones,  held  together  by 
a  thick  glutinous  substance.  The  color  of  the  interior 
is  of  deep  crimson,  and  the  flavor  of  the  fruit  very  closely 
resembles  that  of  the  strawberry  ;  but  like  most  tropical 
fruits,  it  is  rather  unpalatable,  upon  tasting  it  for  the  first 
time.  So  extremely  abundant  is  the  guava,  that  the 
Tahitians  allow  their  swine  to  roam  at  large,  and  grow 
fat  upon  the  fruit  which  lies  neglected  upon  the  ground  ; 
and  the  season  when  guavas  are  ripe,  is  hailed  with  a 
most  enthusiastic  grunt  of.  thanksgiving  from  all  expe- 
rienced porkers,  that  have  been  dragging  their  emaciated 
carcasses  along  the  beach  in  eager  anticipations  of  enjoy- 
ing a  glorious  return,  of  what  they  have  such  pleasing 
recollections.  The  rapid  usurpation  of  the  soil  by  the 
guava,  is  indeed,  a  serious  evil,  but,  as  a  gentleman 
observed  to  me,  the  time  will  come,  when  the  Tahi- 
tians, alarmed  at  the  prospect  of  destruction  impending 
over  the  island,  if  the  guava  obtains  the  ascendency, 
will  throw  off  their  indolence,  and  extirpate  it  from  their 
soil.  Thus,  by  rousing  themselves  to  exertion  against 
the  invader,  they  will  have  acquired  a  momentum  in  the 
path  of  industry,  which  will  not  soon  be  stopped,  so  that 
this  evil  will  prove  to  be  a  blessing. 

There  are  very  few  melons  to  be  had  at  Tahiti,  and 


308  TAHITI. 

culinary  vegetables  are  rare,  a  scarcity  severely  felt  by 
the  foreign  residents.  Sweet  potatoes  of  the  yellow 
kind,  are  cultivated  in  sufficient  quantities,  but  are  far 
inferior  to  those  we  had  at  Honolulu.  The  sweet  pota- 
toes ordered  for  the  barque  Flora,  were  unfortunately  of 
very  diminutive  proportions,  and  were  traversed  by  little 
veins  of  the  bitterest  substance  imaginable,  which  was 
owing  to  their  having  grown  upon  worn  out  land.  Such 
is  their  bitterness,  that  he  who  has  been  enjoying  one  of 
these  "  roots,"  and  any  thing  of  the  vegetable  kind 
becomes  a  luxury  at  sea — is  suddenly  brought  to  a  dead 
stand,  while  carrying  on  the  process  of  mastication,  and 
by  the  most  expressive  contortions  of  his  phiz,  indicates 
his  unfortunate  collision  with  these  bitterest  of  bitter 
things ;  a  striking  emblem  of  the  bitterness  of  disap- 
pointed hopes. 

But  the  noblest  product  of  the  vegetable  kingdom, 
which  springing  up  spontaneously,  affords  the  most 
wholesome  and  palatable  nutriment  to  the  natives  of  the 
tropical  islands,  is  the  majestic  bread-fruit  tree.  "  The 
bread-fruit  tree  is  large  and  umbrageous,  with  a  rough 
bark  of  a  light  color ;  and  the  trunk  is  sometimes  two  or 
three  feet  in  diameter,  rising  to  the  height  of  twelve  or 
twenty  feet  without  a  branch.  The  outline  of  the  tree 
is  remarkably  beautiful ;  the  leaves  are  broad  and  in- 
dented, somewhat  like  those  of  the  fig  tree,  frequently 
twelve  or  eighteen  inches  long,  and  rather  thick,  of  a 
dark  green  color,  with  a  surface  glossy  as  that  of  the 
richest  evergreen.  The  fruit  is  generally  circular  or 
oval,  and  is  on  an  average,  six  inches  in  diameter ;  it  is 
covered  with  small  square,  or  lozenge-shaped  divisions, 
having  each  a  small  elevation  in  the  centre,  and  is  at 
first  of  a  slight  pea  green  color ;  subsequently,  it  changes 
to  brown,  and  when  fully  ripe,  assumes  a  rich  yellow 


BREAD  FRUIT- 

Society     Islands 


2i£/i  of  Eru&cvtf 


BREAD-FRUIT.  309 

tinge.  It  is  attached  to  the  small  branches  of  the  tree 
by  a  short  thick  stalk,  and  hangs  either  singly,  or  in 
clusters,  of  two  or  three  together.  The  pulp  is  soft,  and 
in  the  centre,  there  is  a  hard  kind  of  core,  extending  from 
the  stalk  to  the  crown,  around  which  a  few  imperfect 
seeds  are  formed.  There  is  nothing  very  pleasing  in 
the  blossom ;  but  a  stately  tree  clothed  with  dark  shining 
leaves,  and  loaded  with  many  hundreds  of  large  light 
green  or  yellowish  colored  fruit,  is  one  of  the  most 
splendid  and  beautiful  objects  to  be  met  with,  among  the 
rich  and  diversified  scenery  of  a  Tahitian  landscape." 
The  bread-fruit  tree  reminds  one  of  the  noble  oaks  we 
have  in  the  United  States,  with  their  deep  green  canopy 
of  glossy  leaves,  although  its  foliage  is  more  dense  than 
that  of  the  oak.  The  rind  of  the  fruit  is  of  a  cellular 
structure,  having  an  exterior  marked  with  pentagons  and 
hexagons,  and  other  geometrical  figures,  of  a  more 
interesting  character  than  many  that  are  pored  over  by 
the  student  of  geometry.  The  cellular  structure  of  a 
honey  comb  is  perhaps  the  best  illustration  of  the  external 

appearance  of  the  bread  flrilll.       Upon  dissection,  VOU  find 

an  elongated  core,  of  a  brownish  color,  with  delicate 
fibres  radiating  in  every  direction  towards  the  rind. 
When  the  fruit  has  attained  perfect  ripeness  upon  the 
tree,  it  is  of  a  pulpy  nature,  of  which  the  natives  prepare 
a  fermented  beverage,  that  they  are  very  fond  of,  although 
it  produces  violent  pains  in  every  limb,  particularly  in 
the  morning.  The  fruit  is  usually  plucked  from  the 
tree,  before  it  is  fully  ripe,  and  then  its  internal  aspect  is 
like  that  of  a  slightly  wilted  turnip.  To  exhibit  its 
qualities  in  perfection,  it  must  be  baked  under  ground  in 
the  native  style,  and  is  then  far  preferable  to  being  baked 
in  the  ovens  of  foreigners.  Prepared  in  this  way,  it  is 
of  a  pure  white,  mealy  appearance,  reminding  one  most 


310  TAHITI. 

strongly  of  the  richest  boiled  chestnut,  more  nearly  than 
any  thing  else  occurring  to  my  mind.  While  we  lay  at 
Tahiti.  I  acquired  a  very  great  fondness  for  the  bread- 
fruit, which  seemed  to  me  the  most  delightful  esculent  I 
had  ever  tasted. 

The  native  style  of  preparing  the  bread-fruit,  is  similar 
to  their  method  of  cooking  meats  of  various  kinds.  A 
swine  that  is  to  be  cooked  whole,  is  carefully  cleansed, 
and  then  instead  of  the  aromatics,  which  our  experienced 
cook  would  introduce  within  his  carcass,  he  receives  a 
stuffing  of  hot  stones,  whose  effect  is  accelerated  by  his 
swineship  being  carefully  laid  upon  a  bed  of  red  hot 
stones  in  a  cavity  in  the  ground.  Some  broad  leaves  are 
then  spread  over  him,  with  a  layer  of  hot  stones,  and  he 
is  allowed  to  repose  undisturbed  for  some  time,  when  he 
is  roused  from  his  quiescent  condition,  with  a  high  fever 
heat  upon  him,  but  at  the  same  time  in  a  state  of  profuse 
perspiration.  This  method  of  preparing  meats,  which, 
en  passant,  is  in  general  use  throughout  the  Pacific 
islands,  is  called  in  the  Hawaiian  dialect,  a  luaii  (luow,) 
derived  from  the  name  of  tne  herbs  frequently  cooked 
along  with  them.  It  preserves  the  flavor  and  juices  of 
the  animal  in  a  much  higher  degree  of  perfection  than 
the  process  of  roasting  before  the  fire. 

While  we  lay  at  Papeete,  I  had  frequent  opportunity 
of  observing  the  regularity  with  which  the  tide  arrived 
at  its  flood  every  day  at  twelve  o'clock,  and  at  its  lowest 
point  at  six  o'clock,  morning  and  evening.  It  is  well 
known  that  high  tide  occurs  in  every  other  part  of  the 
world,  not  at  the  same  hour,  but  about  fifty  minutes 
later,  and  is  principally  owing  to  the  attraction  of  the 
moon,  which  arrives  upon  the  meridian,  later  by  this 
time  every  day,  about  three  hours  before  high  tide  ;  this 
phenomenon    therefore,  presents    a    strange   anomaly, 


TIDE.  311 

which  has  not  met  with  a  satisfactory  explanation. 
"  Among  the  natural  phenomena  of  the  south  sea  islands, 
the  tide  is  one  of  the  most  singular,  and  presents  as 
great  an  exception  to  the  theory  of  Sir  Isaac  Newton,  as 
is  to  be  met  with  in  any  part  of  the  world.  The  rising 
and  falling  of  the  waters  of  the  ocean  appear,  if  influenced 
at  all,  to  be  so  in  a  very  small  degree  only  by  the  moon. 
The  height  to  which  the  water  rises,  varies  but  a  few 
inches  during  the  whole  year,  and  at  no  time,  is  it  eleva- 
ted more  than  a  foot  or  a  foot  and  a  half.  The  sea, 
however,  often  rises  to  an  unusual  height,  but  this 
appears  to  be  the  effect  of  strong  winds  blowing  for  some 
time  from  one  quarter,  or  the  heavy  swells  of  the  sea, 
which  flow  from  different  directions,  and  prevail  equally 
during  the  time  of  high  and  low  water.  But  the  most 
remarkable  circumstance  is  the  uniformity  of  the  time  of 
high  and  low  water,  during  the  year,  whatever  be  the 
age  or  the  situation  of  the  moon,  the  water  is  lowest  at 
six  in  the  morning,  and  highest  at  noon  and  midnight. 
This  is  so  well  established,  that  the  time  of  night  is 
marked  by  the  ebbing  and  flowing  of  the  tide,  and  in  all 
the  islands,  the  term  for  high  water  and  for  midnight  is 
the  same."     (Ellis's  Polynesian  Researches.) 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

THE   SOUTH  PACIFIC. 

Retrospect   of    Tahiti  —  Additional   passengers  —  Accident — 
Snow — Iceberg — Religion  of  sadlors — Bird  catching. 

Friday,  September  25th.,  we  weighed  anchor  at  Pa- 
peete bay,  and  with  a  lowering  unpropitious  sky,  that 
had  been  deluging  us  with  rain  all  the  morning,  and  had 
dyed  the  bay  of  a  bright  yellow,  from  the  muddy  waters 
of  the  swollen  streams,  we  moved  slowly  out  of  the 
harbor,  and  were  soon  tossing  upon  the  ocean,  "deep, 
dark,  rough  and  shoreless"  to  us,  for  many  a  month. 

In  taking  a  retrospect  of  Tahiti,  it  appears  to  me,  from 
the  observations  which  I  have  endeavored  to  make  with 
candor,  that  the  "  queen  of  the  Pacific,"  a  proud  title 
that  has  been  given  to  this  island,  is  far  behind  any  of 
the  Hawaiian  islands,  in  industry,  knowledge  of  govern- 
ment, and  religion.  The  English  missionaries  will 
themselves  allow  this  ;  and  although  many  of  them 
have  been  stationed  upon  this  and  the  adjoining  islands 
for  more  than  forty  years,  yet  their  success,  when 
compared  with  what  has  been  accomplished  by  the 
missionaries  at  the  Hawaiian  islands,  is  by  no  means 
equal  to  what  one  would  naturally  expect.  I  do  not  say 
this  in  condemnation  of  the  English  missionaries,  for  the 
materials  upon  which  their  efforts  have  been  expended, 
may  have  been  of  an  unfavourable  character,  or  they  may 


RETROSPECT    OF    TAHITI.  313 

not  have  adopted  the  best  possible  course  ;  and  perhaps, 
they  have  not  infused  that  energy  into  their  operations, 
which  is  so  characteristic  of  missionary  movements  at 
the  Hawaiian  islands.  The  number  of  English  mis- 
sionaries at  Tahiti,  bears  a  greater  proportion  to  the 
population,  than  that  of  the  American  missionaries  at  the 
Hawaiian  islands  to  the  population  of  those  islands.  I 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  and  conversing  with  several 
of  them,  as  an  unusual  number  had  convened  at  Papeete, 
to  try  one  of  their  corps,  who  had  been  guilty  of  some 
improprieties  while  acting  as  missionary  at  one  of  the 
adjacent  islands.  Some  of  them  are  far  advanced  in  life, 
and  have  spent  about  forty  years  upon  these  islands ; 
but  one  or  two  are  very  juvenile  in  their  appearance. 
They  are  all  good  men,  I  doubt  not,  and  are  devoting 
themselves  to  the  welfare  of  those  among  whom  their 
lives  are  to  be  spent ;  for  there  is  nothing  in  the  life  of  a 
missionary  that  is  inviting,  except  as  it  calls  into  exer- 
cise the  promptings  of  disinterested  benevolence.  Al- 
though schools  have  been  established  at  Tahiti,  and  the 
adjoining  islands,  for  the  instruction  of  the  natives,  yet 
there  was  nothing  that  I  could  discover,  indicating  that 
improvement  and  intelligence  that  is  so  apparent  at 
Honolulu,  and  at  many  other  places  in  the  Hawaiian 
group.  The  American  missionaries  have  been  far  more 
enterprising  in  printing  tracts  and  books  in  the  native 
language  than  their  brethren  in  the  south  Pacific,  who 
have  published  nothing  upon  any  scientific  subject,  and 
had  but  just  received  a  complete  edition  of  the  scriptures 
in  the  Tahitian  language,  a  day  or  two  after  we  arrived 
at  Papeete.  In  reviewing  the  labors  of  the  Hawaiian 
missionaries,  and  in  comparing  what  they  have  done, 
with  what  has  been  accomplished  in  other  islands  of  the 
Pacific,  we  cannot  feel  too  high  an  admiration  for  the 

2T 


314  THE     SOUTH     PACIFIC. 

glorious  results,  which  the  representations  of  impartial 
tourists  and  the  missionary  periodicals  are  daily  present- 
ing to  the  public. 

October^  5.  At  Tahiti  we  made  some  additions  to 
our  ship's  company,  which  restored  the  original  number 
of  passengers  aboard  the  Flora.  The  poor  man,  who 
cut  his  throat  soon  after  leaving  Honolulu,  and  exhibited 
other  marks  of  insanity,  became  so  very  troublesome,  that 
he  was  discharged  from  the  ship,  and  placed  under  the 
care  of  the  United  States  Consul  at  Papeete,  where  he 
will  probably  end  his  days.  A  gentleman  by  the  name 
of  Hall  joined  us  at  Tahiti,  a  man  of  intelligence  and 
pleasing  manners.  He  was  formerly  master  of  several 
vessels  in  succession,  and  has  made  repeated  voyages  to 
Russia  and  to  various  places  in  the  East  Indies,  some 
accounts  of  which  that  he  has  given  me  in  the  dog- 
watches of  the  evening,  have  been  highly  interesting. 
Captain  S.,  received  on  board  the  mate  of  the  Alexander 
Mansfield,  the  condemned  whale  ship,  who  acts  as  one 
of  the  officers,  a  very  important  acquisition,  as  one  of 
our  officers  is  disabled,  and  has  been  so  for  some  time 
past.  It  is  a  very  pleasant  thing  for  me  to  have  a 
brother  whaler  for  a  shipmate  ;  for  although  I  dissolved 
my  connection  with  whaling  life,  upon  leaving  the 
North  America,  yet  I  shall  never  cease  feeling  an 
interest  in  that  noble  service,  for  which  I  entertain 
such  a  high  degree  of  admiration.  Mr.  Gan — our  new 
officer — while  engaged  in  "cutting  in"  a  whale,  several 
years  since,  was  walking  across  the  deck,  when  he  was 
knocked  down  by  a  piece  of  blubber,  that  suddenly 
swung  on  board,  which  fractured  his  leg,  and  rendered 
him  lame  for  life.  He  told  me,  that  frequently  when  he 
has  been  at  the  head  of  the  boat,  attending  to  the  gear, 
which  was  fast  to  a  running  whale,  he  has  been  carried 


AN    ACCIDENT.  315 

under,  and  almost  strangled  by  the  violent  pitching  of 
the  boat  in  her  impetuous  course.  Just  before  we 
arrived  at  Tahiti,  an  American  ship  had  touched  there, 
having  met  with  the  loss  of  her  captain,  a  short  time 
previously,  who  was  killed  by  a  stroke  from  the  flukes 
of  a  whale  to  which  he  was  fast,  or  had  struck  with  the 
harpoon. 

After  leaving  Tahiti,  we  doubled  around  the  island  of 
Eimeo,  or  Morea,  as  it  is  called  by  the  natives,  which  is 
in  plain  sight  from  Papeete.  Its  shores  are  thickly  set 
with  cocoa-nut  trees,  and  in  its  general  aspect  it  is  not 
dissimilar  to  Tahiti.  For  the  two  or  three  succeeding 
days,  the  weather  was  cold  and  rainy,  and  one  or  two 
unpleasant  scenes  attendant  upon  the  commencement  of 
a  voyage — for  instance,  sea-sickness,  were  enacted  over 
again,  by  one  or  two  of  the  passengers. 

October,  7.  During  the  last  night,  a  strong  breeze 
brought  the  ship  down  to  double  reefed  top-sails,  when 
about  lour  o'clock  this  morning,  the  main-top-sail  yard 
snapped  in  two,  but  the  sail  was  taken  in,  and  secured, 
until  four  or  five  hours  afterwards,  when  the  wind  died 
away  into  a  calm,  and  the  broken  spar  was  sent  down. 
It  was  found  to  be  defective,  owing  to  its  being  perforated 
by  an  iron  eye  bolt,  to  which  the  chain  tie  was  attached, 
instead  of  to  a  band  going  around  the  yard.  This  acci- 
dent was  of  no  material  importance  in  our  present  situa- 
tion, but  had  it  occurred  while  we  were  endeavoring  to 
beat  off  a  lee  shore,  it  would  have  endangered  the  loss  of 
the  ship.  By  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  a  new  top-sail 
yard  was  sent  up,  and  adjusted  to  its  proper  place  by  the 
perils,  braces  and  lifts.  The  topsail  was  then  bent  upon 
it,  with  rope  hands  ("  robeins  ")  and  earings  ;  then  sheet- 
ed home,  and  hoisted,  and  we  were  ready  to  take  advan- 


316  THE     SOUTH     PACIFIC. 

tage  of  the  fair  wind,  which  sprang  up  just  as  we  were 
ready  for  it. 

To-day  we  saw  albatrosses  for  the  first  time,  although 
in  the  low  latitude  of  31°  south,  but  were  unsuccessful 
in  capturing  any  of  them  although  they  snapped  off  from 
the  line,  and  swallowed  several  large  fish  hooks  for  us, 
and  gorged  themselves  with  the  salt  pork,  with  which 
they  were  baited. 

Monday,  October  26.  Last  night,  a  strong  breeze  on 
our  starboard  quarter,  blew  up  into  a  gale  of  wind  by 
morning,  and  we  ran  before  it  under  double  reefed 
top-sails,  which  was  more  than  most  ships  could  have 
carried  in  safety  on  such  an  occasion.  Latitute  53°  47' 
longitude  96°  53'. 

Tuesday,  October  27.  A  slight  fall  of  snow  excited 
great  delight  in  our  tropical  friends,  the  more  advanced 
of  whom,  hailed  its  appearance  as  that  of  an  old  acquaint- 
ance. It  was  highly  amusing  to  see  with  what  enthu- 
siasm the  children  ran  about  the  deck,  collecting1  the 
falling  flakes,  delighted  with  the  novel  properties  of  a 
substance  they  had  heard  so  much  about,  and  wondering 
at  its  benumbing  effect  upon  their  hands.  The  thermom- 
eter stood  not  far  from  32°,  a  temperature  felt  more 
severely  at  sea,  than  a  fall  of  the  thermometer  eight  or 
ten  degrees  lower,  would  be  on  land.  The  missionary 
families,  as  I  had  anticipated,  were  very  meagerly 
supplied  with  suitable  articles  of  clothing  for  a  tempera- 
ture of  which  they  had  but  little  idea  until  they  encoun- 
tered it ;  and  the  elder  members,  after  a  residence  of 
twenty  years  in  a  tropical  climate,  had  apparently  almost 
forgotten  the  nature  of  cold  weather.  We  had  no  fire 
on  board,  except  what  was  in  the  cook's  galley,  and  the 
clothing  of  some  of  the  children  was  entirely  inadequate 


ICEBERGS.  317 

to  the  temperature  of  the  weather,  especially  as  they  were 
laboring  under  the  hooping  cough.  Many  of  the 
passengers,  to  keep  warm,  resort  to  their  berths,  and  one 
or  two  of  the  ladies  are  provided  with  slabs  of  soapstone, 
whose  power  of  retaining  heat  is  rendered  available  in 
keeping  their  feet  warm. 

Sunday )  November  1.  Latitude  56°  47'.  Longitude  77° 
OCK  From  the  latitude  and  longitude,  it  will  be  seen 
that  the  ship  is  not  far  from  Cape  Horn.  Last  night,  a 
heavy  gale  of  wind  sprang  up  from  the  westward,  with 
frequent  squalls  of  snow  and  sleet.  This  morning,  while 
reefing  the  fore-topsail,  a  man  fell  from  the  extremity  of 
the  yard,  and  was  caught  in  the  studding-sail  gear,  which 
was  fortunately  rove  at  the  time;  otherwise,  he  must 
have  been  dashed  to  pieces  by  falling  upon  deck,  or  have 
been  lost  overboard,  for  no  boat  could  survive  such  a  sea. 
The  conflict  of  the  elements  was  a  sight  that  could  not 
but  inspire  the  beholder  with  awe.  We  wore  flying 
before  the  gale,  but  the  mighty  surges,  swollen  with 
accumulated  waters,  gather  in  dread  array  in  our  rear, 
then  sweep  onward  in  pursuit,  with  increasing  momen- 
tum, until  towering  above  us  with  their  foaming  crests, 
they  seem  ready  to  engulf  us  ;  but  the  gallant  ship,  with 
her  taff'erel  thrown  high  into  the  air,  plunges  headlong 
down  the  watery  steep,  then  mounts  upon  the  heaving 
sea,  that  is  piling  up  under  her  bow.  "  An  iceberg  in 
sight!"  is  suddenly  echoed  throughout  the  ship,  and 
every  one  hurries  upon  deck  to  view  the  interesting  but 
unwelcome  visitant.  Through  the  gloom  of  the  driving 
snow-storm,  the  majestic  ice  island  is  descried,  and  its 
craggy  peaks  of  a  light  green  color  tipped  with  white, 
are  distinctly  seen  rising  in  stateliness  above  the  angry 
waters.  It  had  a  wild  dreary  aspect,  comporting  well 
with  the  hoarse  roar  of  the  winds  and  the  raging  sea, 

2T* 


318  THE     SOUTH    PACIFIC. 

and  reminded  us  of  the  forlorn  regions  southward  of  us, 
in  which  it  had  its  origin— whence  it  was  detached,  and 
now,  impelled  by  the  ocean  storms,  it  is  wasted  away 
until  not  a  vestige  of  it  shall  remain.  The  height  of  the 
iceberg  was  estimated  to  be  not  far  from  three  hundred 
feet ;  if  this  conjecture  is  correct,  then,  as  the  specific 
gravity  of  ice  compared  with  water,  is  as  eight  to  nine, 
the  depth  of  the  ice  island  below  the  surface  of  the 
water,  was  two  thousand  four  hundred  feet,  or  not  far 
from  half  a  mile.  Whenever  a  fragment  is  detached  at 
this  great  depth — a  not  unfrequent  occurrence — its  buoy- 
ancy causes  it  to  shoot  upward  with  very  great  velocity, 
and  many  ships  sailing  in  the  neighborhood  of  icebergs, 
have  filled  with  water  and  foundered,  from  an  encounter 
with  one  of  those  masses,  which  are  often  of  very  great 
dimensions.  A  foggy  atmosphere  very  frequently  invests 
these  ice  islands,  and  the  navigator,  who  has  been  ac- 
customed to  traverse  those  seas  where  they  are  prevalent, 
takes  warning  of  their  proximity,  by  being  suddenly 
enveloped  in  a  cold  fog.  On  this  account,  and  because 
their  position  can  never  be  foreseen  by  calculation,  as 
that  of  rocks  laid  down  upon  the  chart,  they  are  objects 
of  peculiar  dread  to  the  mariner.  In  a  gale  of  wind, 
where  they  are  numerous,  a  ship  is  exposed  to  the 
extreme  danger  of  being  crushed  by  their  collision. 
Many  vessels  bound  around  Cape  Horn,  that  have  never 
been  heard  from  are  supposed  to  have  been  lost  among 
ice  islands,  whose  presence  in  this  region  greatly  enhances 
the  danger.  During  the  last  night,  several  other  ice- 
bergs were  passed,  as  was  supposed  from  the  sudden  and 
intense  cold  experienced  at  different  intervals  by  the 
watch  upon  deck,  and  on  one  occasion,  about  midnight, 
one  of  the  passengers  perceived  so  sudden  an  alteration 
in  the  temperature,  that  he  went  upon  deck  to  ascertain 


LEVITY    OF    SAILORS.  319 

the  cause.  All  night  long  we  were  propelled  before  the 
blast,  blinded  by  the  snow,  which  shrouded  our  course 
in  darkness,  and  winding  our  way  amid  dangers,  the 
very  thought  of  which  is  appalling  to  the  voyager.  Soon 
after  this  iceberg  was  seen,  the  foresail  was  taken  in,  and 
the  ship  under  a  close  reefed  main-top-sail  bounded  along 
over  the  swollen  waters. 

Thursday,  November  5.  The  gale  of  wind  we  en- 
countered last  Sunday,  abated  towards  night,  and  with 
a  strong  breeze  after  us,  in  a  day  or  two  we  doubled 
Cape  Horn,  and  were  out  of  all  danger  of  icebergs. 

The  man  who  fell  from  the  fore-top-sail-yard  arm,  and 
so  narrowly  escaped  destruction,  was  somewhat  sobered 
by  it  at  first,  and  continued  so  during  the  day,  especially 
as  the  duties  he  and  the  other  seamen  were  called  upon 
to  execute  during  the  storm,  were  too  serious  and  un- 
comfortable to  admit  of  much  jesting  over  that  occur- 
rence. The  next  day,  however,  he  was  as  light  hearted 
as  any  of  them,  and  as  would  be  the  case  with  most 
sailors  who  think  it  effeminate  to  heed  an  escape  from 
death,  to  which  they  are  constantly  exposed,  the  recol- 
lection of  his  hazardous  situation  was  almost  entirely 
effaced.  Though  compelled  to  undergo  the  severest  toils 
and  privations,  which  almost  always  terminate  his  life 
before  he  has  reached  its  natural  limit,  yet  the  sailor  is  a 
light-hearted,  careless  fellow,  forgetting  all  sober  reflec- 
tions when  danger  has  passed  by.  His  religious  notions 
are  often  a  species  of  universal  ism,  and  he  believes  that 
by  a  faithful  discharge  of  his  duties  aboard  ship,  and  by 
open  handed  generosity  to  his  shipmates,  all  that  is 
required  of  him,  will  be  accomplished.  Voyaging  on 
the  deep,  where  he  sees  so  many  exhibitions  of  Almighty 
power,  he  feels  that  he  requires  in  a  peculiar  manner,  the 
protection  of  that  Supreme  Beingj  who  directs  the  ele- 


320  THE    SOUTH    PACIFIC. 

ments  at  his  will,  and  he  is  led  to  imagine  that  some 
kind  spirit  is  watching  over  him  from  above,  to  speed 
him  on  his  way,  and  he  loves  to  think, 

"  There's  a  sweet  little  cherub  who  sits  up  aloft, 
To  keep  a  watch  o'er  the  life  of  poor  Jack." 

Mariner's  Song-book. 

In  the  terrific  hurricane,  or  in  impending  shipwreck, 
when  death  seems  near,  even  the  most  thoughtless  sail- 
ors are  brought  to  sober  reflection  upon  their  lives,  and 
the  most  earnest  professions  of  repentance  are  made,  and 
perhaps  they  supplicate  for  mercy  for  themselves.  But 
as  danger  passes  away,  their  serious  impressions  too  often 
evaporate,  or  are  sometimes  succeeded  by  the  profane  jest 
upon  their  fears,  which  prompted  them  to  seek  help  from 
on  high.  An  instance  in  illustration,  came  to  my  knowl- 
edge some  time  since.  A  ship  had  just  encountered  a 
terrific  gale  of  wind,  in  which  she  had  been  thrown  on 
her  beam  ends,  and  was  in  imminent  peril  of  being  lost. 
While  in  this  awful  situation,  some  of  the  crew  were 
paralyzed  by  fear,  but  the  greater  part  were  loudly  im- 
ploring help  from  on  hi^h,  and  mercy  upon  themselves, 
in  prospect  of  the  doom  which  seemed  to  be  impending 
over  them.  Meanwhile,  the  masts  were  cut  away,  and 
the  ship  righted  again  ;  and  not  long  afterwards,  the 
storm  abated,  when  jury  masts  were  rigged,  and  the 
ship  continued  on  her  course.  But  with  the  storm,  the 
religious  impressions  of  the  crew  had  disappeared,  or  were 
considered  as  farcical,  and  legitimate  subjects  for  mer- 
riment.    *  By ,"  some  one  more  hardened  than  the 

rest  exclaimed,  "how  Bill  did  pray  ;  he  walked  it  off  at 
the  rate  of  eight  knots  an  hour,  just  as  if  he  had  been  a 
parson  all  his  life."  "  Yes,  but  I  only  wanted  to  see  how 
big  fools  I  could  make  of  the  rest  of  you,  that  were  scared 
almost   to   death,"    retorts    his   opponent.     "Scared   to 


RELIGION  OF  SAILORS.         321 

death  !  You'd  better  'bout  ship  on  that  tack,  maty,  for 
didn't  we  all  see  you  with  your  teeth  chattering  together 
so  that  you  couldn't  speak  the  truth  if  you  had  tried, 
and  shaking  all  over  like  a  top-sail  shivering  in  the 
wind  V 

It  does  not  seem  strange  that  those  whose  lives  depend 
upon  the  capricious  elements,  should  be  thoughtless  upon 
the  uncertain  tenure  of  their  lives,  when  we  reflect,  that 
the  soldier  in  active  service,  when  most  familiar  with 
death  is  more  than  ever  reckless  ;  and,  therefore,  sailors, 
except  when  overpowered  with  terror  at  the  approach  of 
death,  are  careless  and  indifferent  about  the  dangers  by 
which  they  are  surrounded. 

"  The  loud  tempests  raise 

The  waters,  and  repentance  for  past  sinning 
In  all,  who  o'er  the  great  deep  take  their  ways. 
They  vow  to  amend  their  lives,  and  yet  they  don't, 
Because  if  drowned  they  can't — if  saved  they  wont." 

Saturday,  Nov.  7.  A  beautiful  and  mild  day,  follow- 
ed by  a  calm  towards  sunset.  The  great  number  of 
birds  around  the  ship,  induced  me  to  make  the  attempt 
to  catch  some  of  them,  which  was  successful ;  a  Moni- 
moke — as  this  bird  is  called  by  the  whalers — and  a  doz- 
en speckled  Haglets,  or  Cape-pigeons,  as  they  are  com- 
monly, but  improperly,  named,  were  captured.  The 
Monimoke  very  nearly  resembles  the  Albatross  in  shape, 
and,  although  but  two-thirds  the  size  of  the  latter,  is  a 
much  finer  bird  in  appearance.  This  variety  is  white, 
having  upon  the  head,  and  particularly  upon  the  neck, 
a  most  delicate,  and  pure  white  plumage,  which  is  re- 
lieved by  the  dark  lead  color  of  his  back  and  wings. 
His  eye  is  of  a  most  brilliant  black,  just  above  which, 
there  is  a  narrow  fringe  of  delicate  black  feathers,  which 
gives  it  much  more  expression  than  it  would  otherwise 


322  THE     SOUTH     PACIFIC. 

have.  After  all  the  passengers  had  embraced  the  oppor- 
tunity of  studying  the  captive,  it  was  proposed  to  liberate 
him,  and  I  was  appointed  to  carry  the  proposition  into  ef- 
fect. A  speech  was  called  for  on  the  occasion,  and  mount- 
ing upon  the  capstan  with  the  bird  in  hand,  I  pronoun- 
ced his  release  in  the  true  Latin  formulary — alias,  con- 
ferred on  him  his  degree :  "  Pro  auctoritate  mihi  com- 
missa,"  &c.  He  was  then  thrown  high  into  the  air,  but 
did  not  embrace  the  opportunity  of  taking  to  wing,  and 
fell  down  upon  deck,  owing,  as  was  suggested,  to  his 
partial  acquaintance  with  the  Latin  dialect,  and  from  his 
ignorance  of  our  intention  to  liberate  him.  Descend- 
ing from  the  capstan,  and  addressing  him  in  the  En- 
glish tongue,  "  Over  board  with  you  !"  he  apprehend- 
ed our  purposes,  as  they  were  rendered  more  clear  by 
elevating  him  above  the  rail  and  giving  him  a  tilt  over- 
board. 

The  speckled  Haglet  is  a  bird  about  the  size  of 
our  large  pigeon.  His  delicate  webb  feet  and  bill,  are 
of  jet  black  color,  and  the  latter  is  formed  with  a  tu- 
bular nostril  protruding  beyond  the  outline  of  the 
bill,  like  that  of  the  Petrel,  or  "  Mother  Cary's  chick- 
en," although  not  quite  so  prominent.  His  eye  is  of 
a  brilliant  jet  black,  and  his  plumage  is  of  a  dark 
brown  color,  speckled  with  numerous  white  feathers, 
by  which  he  is  distinguished  from  another  variety  of 
the  Haglet. 

A  pin  turned  round  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  baited 
with  salt  pork,  and  attached  to  a  thread  with  a  cork  for 
a  float,  is  all  the  apparatus  necessary  for  the  capture  of 
these  birds.  There  were  great  numbers  of  them  about, 
and  their  loud  chatterings,  and  the  eagerness  with 
which  they  took  hold  of  the  bait,  even  diving  under 
water  to  the  depth  of  one  or  two  feet,  indicated  their  vo- 


BIRD   CATCHING.  323 

racity.  The  plumage  of  these  aquatic  birds  is  so  ad- 
mirably adapted  to  the  element  from  which  they  ob- 
tain their  subsistence,  that  it  always  continues  dry,  even 
after  repeated  dives  below  the  surface.  The  speckled 
Haglet  is  a  beautiful  bird,  but  like  all  other  aquatic  birds 
of  this  region,  emits  a  most  disgusting  effluvium  from  its 
mouth  when  captured. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

THE  SOUTH  ATLANTIC 


A    MERCHANT     SHIP — L.ONG-BOAT — CREW — GALE — PoR  POISE — PaM- 

pero — Dolphin — Waterspout — Protracted  head- winds — Omi- 
nous  CHARACTER   OF   THE   FLORA — EMPLOYMENT  OF   TIME. 


As  the  Flora  is  a  merchant  vessel,  she  is  not  provided 
with  many  of  those  appendages  that  are  peculiar  to  wha- 
lers. Alo(t,  there  is  no  difference,  with  the  exception  ot 
top-gallant-cross-trees,  which  are  wanting  in  the  former. 
Upon  deck  the  principal  difference  consists,  in  a  long-boat 
in  place  of  the  try-works  in  which  the  oil  is  prepared, 
which  are  located  between  the  fore  and  main  masts.  The 
long-boat  is  a  large  bulky  craft,  intended  as  a  lighter  in 
transporting  merchandize  from  ship  to  shore,  while  the 
vessel  is  at  anchor,  and  built  very  strong,  but  with  no 
reference  to  any  other  quality  but  capacity.  When  not 
in  use  she  is  firmly  secured  in  a  framework  upon  deck, 
and  is  generally  housed  over,  forming  a  very  convenient 
receptacle  for  swine  and  other  animals,  as  is  the  case  in 
the  present  instance.  Several  dingy-looking  hen-coops 
ranged  along  upon  top,  with  an  array  of  water  casks  up- 
on each  side,  complete  the  appearance  of  the  long-boat 
and  its  appendages.  In  a  whaleship,  the  bearers — spars 
crossing  the  quarter  deck  at  the  height  of  nine  or  ten  feet, 


A     MERCHANT     SHIP.  325 

and  supporting  the  spare  boats,  which  are  lashed  upon 
them,  bottom  upwards — give  to  this  part  of  the  ship  a 
very  different  aspect  from  that  of  a  merchant  vessel. 
At  the  tafferel,  hangs  the  yawl,  a  light  boat  rowed  with 
four  oars,  and  a  very  convenient  little  craft  for  gliding 
around  upon  the  still  waters  of  a  bay,  but  a  miserable 
structure  for  venturing  out  upon  the  ocean  billows.  It 
is  supported  from  two  timbers,  four  or  five  feet  long, 
projecting  beyond  the  rail,  called  "davits,"  very  unlike  in 
shape  and  position,  the  long  curved  timbers,  upon  which 
the  boats  of  a  whale  ship  are  elevated  upon  each  side  of 
the  vessel. 

Merchant  ships  almost  always  carry  more  sail  than 
whalers,  which  have  no  object  in  hurrying  forward  on 
their  course  with  any  more  rapidity,  than  is  necessary 
in  hunting  their  game.  The  Flora  sometimes  spreads 
six  studding  sails,  when  the  wind  is  directly  aft,  and 
some  ships  display  eight  or  more  at  times.  When  a 
ship  is  seen  coming  down  before  the  wind,  with  lower, 
topmast,  top-gallant,  and  royal  studding  sails  run  out 
upon  both  sides,  and  with  lofty  sky-sails  set  above  this 
cloud  of  canvass,  she  presents  a  most  majestic  and  beau- 
tiful appearance. 

The  Flora  carries  eleven  men  "all  told,"  for  her  com- 
plement— captain  and  two  officers,  cook  and  steward,  and 
seven  men  before  the  mast — a  number  that  appeared  to 
me  entirely  inadequate  for  a  vessel  of  her  tonnage,  as  I 
had  but  a  short  time  before  left  the  North  America, 
where  we  had  thirty  one  men  "all  told,"  for  our  com- 
plement, and  upon  one  or  two  occasions,  when  we  were 
suddenly  struck  by  heavy  squalls,  these  were  not  found 
to  be  too  numerous.  No  occurrence  of  this  kind  has 
as  yet  taken  place,  an  event  very  much  to  be  deprecated, 
as  the  sails  could  not  be  taken  in  with  the  expedition  so 

28 


THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 

imperativly  necessary  on  such  occasions.  An  approach- 
ing squall  is  almost  always  an  object  of  solicitude  to  the 
navigator,  from  the  uncertainty  of  foretelling  its  effects. 
A  light  mist  may  be  seen  gathering  to  windward,  that  is 
hardly  worth  noticing,  but  in  its  folds  it  conceals  the 
tornado,  that  may  carry  away  the  masts  before  its  proxim- 
ity is  discovered ;  and  again  it  may  rise  in  threatening 
array,  with  angry  clouds,  and  yet  pass  harmlessly  by. 
Our  crew  is  composed  of  representatives  from  a  variety 
of  nations.  There  are  two  Swedes,  a  Dane,  a  Fin,  an 
Englishman,  an  Irishman,  and  a  Scotchman.  They  are 
excellent  sailors,  and  I  am  very  much  pleased  with  their 
appearance.  Of  the  invalid  sailors,  that  were  put  on 
board  at  Papeete,  by  the  United  States  Consul,  only  one 
is  able  to  be  upon  duty  all  the  time.  The  Flora  is  not 
well  found  in  rigging,  for  much  of  the  running  rigging 
is  defective,  and  not  of  sufficient  length,  and  the  tackles 
are  of  the  worst  description,  a  deficiency  which  struck 
me  the  more  forcibly,  from  the  excellent  condition  of 
every  thing  of  this  description  on  board  the  North  Amer- 
ica ;  but  there  are  no  ships  in  the  world  that  are  fitted 
out  with  more  liberality  than  whale  ships,  and  the 
Flora  may  not  be  very  inferior  to  the  average  of  mer- 
chant vessels.  The  discipline  of  these  two  ships 
is  very  different ;  for  a  familiarity  often  takes  place 
between  officers  and  men  aboard  this  ship,  that  would 
never  have  been  tolerated  in  the  least,  aboard  the  North 
America.  Where  the  seamen  endeavor  to  modify  an 
order  they  receive  from  their  officers,  by  suggesting  some 
improvement,  there  can  be  no  very  high  degree  of  disci- 
pline observed.  This  is  not  the  case  in  the  generality  of 
merchant  ships ;  for  in  the  merchant  as  well  as  in  the  wha~ 
ling  service,  the  degree  of  discipline  observed  depends 
almost  entirely  upon  the  will  and  energy  of  the  master. 


GALE.  327 

Some  degree  of  rivalry  exists  between  the  whaling 
and  merchant  services.  The  whaler  in  his  career  of 
adventure,  looks  with  contempt  upon  the  dullness  and 
monotony  of  the  merchant  service,  and  the  merchant- 
man, as  he  is  ploughing  his  way  over  the  deep  under  a 
cloud  of  canvass,  disdains  the  dirty  "blubber  hunter,"  as 
he  invidiously  denominates  his  rival,  who  is  moving 
slowly  under  diminished  sail,  and  quietly  pursuing  his 
avocations.  I  have  conversed  with  many  persons  who 
have  been  engaged  in  both  services,  and  they  have 
invariably  given  their  preference  to  a  whaling  life.  A 
gentleman  of  my  acquaintance,  who  was  master  of  sever- 
al merchant  ships  in  succession,  many  years  since,  told 
me,  that  if  he  was  a  young  man,  upon  the  eve  of  follow- 
ing the  seas  for  life,  he  should  by  all  means  enter  the 
whaling  business.  ■< 

Sunday ■,  Monday,  Tuesday,  November,  8,  9,  10. 
Foggy,  rainy  weather,  with  light  and  baffling  winds  for 
some  time  past.  On  Monday  night  last,  it  commenced 
blowing  hard  from  the  north-east  preceded  by  a  great 
fall  in  the  barometer,  which  stood  at  2S°  37',  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  gale.  The  ship  was  "hove  to,'* 
heading  north  north-west  with  the  wind  and  sea  increas- 
ing during  the  succeeding  day.  At  night  the  aspect  of 
the  gale  was  surpassingly  grand.  "Storm  howled  to 
storm,"  careering  through  the  rigging  in  one  continued 
sullen  roar,  while  the  ominous  gloom  diffused  around, 
and  the  angry  waves  "  upraised  in  hills  of  fluctuating  fire," 
flashing  amid  the  surrounding  darkness,  impressed  an 
awful  grandeur  upon  the  scene. 

Whenever  a  gale  of  wind  in  these  iatitudes  comes 
from  the  north,  it  usually  veers  towards  the  west,  then 
to  the  south-west,  from  which  quarter  it  often  bursts 
forth  with  increased   violence.     During  one  of  these 


328  THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 

gales,  it  is  not  an  unusual  occurrence,  for  the  wind  to 
shift  suddenly  to  the  south-west,  exposing  a  ship  to  the 
danger  of  being  taken  aback,  if  she  is  heading  towards  the 
west,  and  driving  her  stern  first  against  the  heavy  sea 
from  the  north,  a  situation  of  extreme  peril.  It  is  hence 
much  safer  for  a  ship  to  be  hove  to,  on  the  other  tack  ; 
for  a  sudden  change  of  wind  is  received  on  her  quarter, 
and  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  check  in  the  weather  bra- 
ces. During  the  gale,  I  amused  myself  with  catching 
speckled-haglets,  as  a  kind  of  relief  to  our  uncomfortable 
situation,  and  was  very  successful.  The  ship's  deck  has 
been  leaky  for  some  time,  and  the  passengers  in  the  steer- 
age bitterly  complain  of  beds  and  clothes  saturated  with 
water.  No  doubt,  the  constant  dampness  of  the  state- 
rooms has  been  the  cause  of  the  violent  coughs  with 
which  the  children  are  all  afflicted.  Notwithstanding 
the  grandeur  and  display  of  power  in  a  storm  at  sea,  a 
man  who  is  at  all  rational,  ought  to  be  satisfied  with  one 
exhibition.  Upon  deck  the  raging  storm  holds  undisputed 
sway,  while  below,  the  dismal  gloom  and  humid  exhala- 
tions from  every  thing,  render  the  scene  scarcely  more 
inviting.  In  addition  to  this,  the  violent  pitching  of  the 
ship,  and  the  groaning  of  the  bulkheads,  forbid  all  at- 
tempts at  seeking  repose.  And  besides,  let  the  rattling 
of  the  plates  at  the  table  be  taken  into  the  account,  or, 
what  is  worse,  the  reception  of  your  dinner  upon  your 
outward  man— and,  most  respected  reader,  you  have  an 
exhibition  of  what  a  glorious  thing  a  storm  at  sea  is,  when 
viewed  behind  the  scenes. 

In  the  evening,  Capt.  Hall  and  I  were  suddenly  alarm- 
ed by  a  crash  upon  deck  just  over  our  heads.  We  ran 
up  to  ascertain  the  cause,  when  we  found  that  one  of  the 
wheel  ropes  had  given  way,  and  that  the  tiller  had  been 
forced  up  against  the  round  house,  carrying  away  a  piece 


porpoise.  329 

of  it,  by  a  sea  striking  against  the  rudder.  The  reliev- 
ing-tackles  were  instantly  hooked  on,  and  the  rope  was 
soon  repaired.  An  accident  like  this  occurring  under 
some  circumstances — while  scudding  before  a  gale  of  wind 
for  instance — might  be  attended  with  disastrous  conse- 
quences. During  the  night — Tuesday — a  rise  of  the 
barometer  indicated  that  the  violence  of  the  gale  was  over, 
and  by  the  next  morning,  it  had  materially  abated.  Lat. 
51o  S.  Long.  45o  W. 

Friday,  Nov.  13.  A  large  porpoise,  of  a  species  pecu- 
liar to  Cape  Horn  and  these  regions,  was  captured  this 
morning.  This  variety  has  but  a  short  snout,  wmch  is  a 
characteristic  distinguishing  it  from  the  common  kinds. 
His  exterior  is  nearly  black,  with  a  broad,  longitudinal 
stripe  of  a  milk  white  color,  wider  towards  the  extremi- 
ties than  in  the  middle.  The  mouths  of  all  varieties  of 
the  porpoise,  have  some  resemblance  to  that  of  a  swine, 
from  which  circumstance,  sailors  have  assigned  a  rather 
fanciful  origin  to  this  class  of  cetacea.  According  to  an 
opinion  prevalent  among  them,  when  the  evil  spirits  were 
cast  out  of  the  unfortunate  man  near  the  lake  of  Gennes- 
saret,  and  entered  into  the  herd  of  swine,  "  the  whole 
herd  ran  violently  down  a  steep  place  into  the  sea,"  and 
were  changed  into  porpoises,  which  also  accounts  for  the 
unusual  degree  of  activity,  and  the  gambols  displayed  by 
these  animals.  This  theory  would  be  rather  more  plau- 
sible, if  the  miracle  had  not  taken  place  upon  the  mar- 
gin of  an  inland  lake,  which  had  no  communication  with 
the  sea. 

Saturday,  Nov.  14.  With  some  of  the  blubber  of  the 
porpoise  attached  to  a  large  fish  hook,  I  succeeded  in  cap- 
turing six  Albatrosses,  besides  losing  many  more  by  the 
breaking  of  the  line  or  the  hook,  and  blistering  my  hands. 
The  capture  of  these  birds  was  a  source  of  great  amuse- 

28* 


330  THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 

ment  to  the  passengers,  who  provided  themselves  amply 
with  their  beautiful  feathers,  and  were  by  no  means  neg- 
lectful of  the  fricassee,  in  which  form  these  Albatrosses 
made  their  appearance  upon  the  table. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  17.  During  the  last  night,  a  heavy 
gale  of  wind  sprang  up  from  the  west,  accompanied  with 
frequent  and  violent  squalls,  surpassing  every  thing  of 
the  kind  we  have  yet  experienced.  The  sea  was  not  so 
high  however  as  it  has  been  on  former  occasions,  and 
our  situation  was  by  no  means  as  uncomfortable.  The 
winds  may  howl  in  fury  through  the  rigging,  and  yet, 
opposed  by  the  powerful  cordage  and  spars,  may  do  no 
injury  ;  but  the  impetuosity  of  the  surges,  as  they  accu- 
mulate during  a  heavy  and  continued  gale  of  wind  is  ir- 
resistible, and  the  strain  upon  a  ship  is  very  great  upon 
such  occasions.  The  latitude  of  the  ship  to-day,  is  43° 
27',  not  far  from  that  of  the  mouth  of  the  river  De  la  Pla- 
ta, in  passing  which,  ships  not  unfrequently  encounter 
tremendous  gales,  lasting  from  six  to  eight  hours,  which 
have  been  known  to  reduce  a  vessel  to  a  complete  wreck. 
The  vast  pampas,  or  plains  upon  the  banks  of  this  river, 
extending  far  inland,  disturb  the  equilibrium  of  the  at- 
mosphere, and  give  origin  to  these  pamperos  or  hurri- 
canes which  are  felt  far  out  to  sea. 

"  Quippe  ferant  rapidi  secum,  verrantque  per  auras." 

As  for  myself,  my  situation  was  uncomfortable  enough, 
as  I  passed  a  sleepless  night,  listening  to  the  roar  of  the 
gale,  and  holding  myself  in  my  berth,  which,  with  reflect- 
ing upon  the  serious  consequences  likely  to  happen  to 
my  person  in  the  event  of  falling  out,  kept  me  very  effec- 
tually awake.  What  rendered  my  anticipations  of  such 
a  casualty  the  more  unfavorable  to  repose,  was  that  there 
were  two  boxes  in  my  state-room,  separated  from  one  an- 


STORMY   WEATHER.  331 

other  by  a  space  of  two  feet  or  more,  and  if  I  had  been 
pitched  out  of  my  berth  upon  their  sharp  edges,  I  should 
certainly  have  been  put  hors  du  combat.  The  board  that 
in  stormy  weather,  passed  across  my  berth  for  a  defence, 
had  been  removed  a  day  or  two  previous,  and  nothing 
would  have  prevented  me  from  rolling  out,  if  I  had  fall- 
en asleep. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  18.  I  find  in  my  note  book  the 
following  brief  memoranda.  "  Constant  rainy,  foggy  and 
blowy  weather  for  more  than  two  weeks  past — ship  leaky 
in  her  upper  works— forecastle  water-logged,  and  men 
sick."  As  regards  the  weather,  the  only  qualifying  ad- 
jectives applicable  to  it,  are  bad,  ivorse,  worst.  With 
calms  and  fogs,  cold  rains  and  stormy  winds,  our  situa- 
tion may  be  readily  conceived  to  be  of  a  very  trying  na- 
ture to  all  on  board.  Our  state-rooms  are  all  wet,  and 
the  forecastle  is  pronounced  to  be  afloat.  Several  of  the 
men,  in  consequence,  have  been  taken  sick,  and  off  duty, 
at  a  time  when  the  services  of  every  one  were  almost  in- 
dispensable. Violent  colds  have  also  been  very  prevalent 
among  the  passengers. 

To  diversify  the  scene  in  some  degree,  I  amused  my- 
self in  catching  birds,  among  which  were  several  speci- 
mens of  the  black  Monimoke,  a  species  I  have  not  yet 
described.  The  black  Monimoke  is  somewhat  smaller 
than  the  white  variety,  and  is  about  the  size  of  a  common 
goose.  His  plumage  is  of  a  dark  brown,  glossy  appear- 
ance, and  his  bill  and  feet  are  of  a  jet  black  color.  His 
jet  black  eye  is  set  in  bold  relief,  by  a  delicate  fringe  of 
white  feathers  immediately  over  it,  and  his  bill  is  a- 
dorned  with  a  white  cord  running  along  the  lower  part 
of  it. 

Sunday,  Nov.  22.  Our  Meteorological  table  still  con- 
tinues the  same,  with  the  agreeable  reflection  of  having 


332  THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 


made  but  little  Northing  for  some  time  past.     Lat.  32° 
47'  S.,  Long.  35°  46'  W. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  1.  A  mild  and  beautiful  day  with 
scarcely  any  wind,  a  most  agreeable  relief  from  the 
gloomy  atmosphere  that  has  hung  over  us  for  so  long  a 
time.  From  a  school  of  small  dolphins  that  visited  the 
ship,  I  succeeded  in  capturing  two,  each  of  which  meas- 
ured about  two  feet  in  length.  The  Dolphin  is  regarded 
as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  finny  tribe,  not  only 
for  his  elegance  of  shape,  but  from  his  possessing  the  cha- 
meleon-like property  of  changing  his  colors  at  will.  He 
rarely  exceeds  five  feet  in  length,  and  he  is  very  thin  in 
proportion  to  his  breadth.  The  head  of  those  of  the  lar- 
gest size  has  some  resemblance  in  outline  to  that  of  the 
sperm  whale,  although  the  under  jaw  does  not  differ  ma- 
terially from  that  of  the  common  varieties  of  fish.  Upon 
his  back  commencing  just  above  the  gills,  and  extending 
almost  to  his  tail,  is  a  thin  membrane  stretching  between 
slender  bones,  forming  a  beautiful  crest,  which  together 
with  his  back,  is  of  a  deep  blue  or  purple  color.  His  ven- 
tral fin  resembles  a  delicate  fringe,  and  is  tipped  with 
white.  His  tail  is  long  and  slender,  and  his  entire  shape 
fits  him  for  great  activity  and  velocity  of  motion.  While 
the  "  North  America  "  was  in  Panama  bay,  we  were  dai- 
ly visited  by  numbers  of  dolphins,  and  I  frequently  saw 
them  leap  out  of  water  ten  or  twelve  times  in  rapid  suc- 
cesion,  as  far  as  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet  at  each  time. 
With  his  dorsal  crest  erect,  and  all  his  fins  distended  in 
the  eagerness  of  pursuit  after  flying  fish,  and  his  hues 
changing  from  blue  to  green,  then  to  yellow,  in  all  the  in- 
termediate shades — then  with  bands  of  a  brown  color  en- 
circling him,  or  stripes  running  longitudinally — and  all 
these  changes  taking  place  like  the  flash  of  the  Aurora 
Borealis— the  dolphin  is  entitled  to  be  considered  one  of 


WATERSPOUT.  333 

the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  of  the  finny  tribe.  The 
changing  hues  of  the  dying  dolphin  have  always  been 
celebrated.  The  various  shades  of  blue  are  the  predom- 
inating colors,  which  are  rapidly  exchanged  for  delicate 
tinges  of  green  and  yellow,  as  the  agonies  of  death  are 
convulsing  his  frame. 

Wednesday,  Dec.  9.  This  morning,  we  were  called 
upon  deck  to  view  a  waterspout.  The  weather  had  been 
lowering  with  light  winds,  and  from  an  extended  stratum 
of  dark  clouds,  drawn  along  at  an  elevation  of  about 
twenty-five  degrees,  the  waterspout  or  whirlwind  was 
seen  forming.  It  extended  downwards  in  a  well  defined 
dark  column,  turned  a  little  to  the  right,  with  a  whitish 
streak  in  the  middle  of  it,  and  assuming  different  attitudes 
until  it  disappeared.  It  never  extended  much  more  than 
half  way  to  the  horizon,  but  when  at  its  greatest  elonga- 
tion, we  could  perceive  a  light  vapor  rising  from  the  sea 
immediately  underneath.  The  distance  from  ua  was  un- 
doubtedly very  great. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  22.  The  following  items  I  extract  from 
my  note  book.  "  Dec.  13.  Yesterday,  gale  of  wind  from 
the  N.  E.— Ship  reefed  down.  To-day,  wind  from  the 
north  from  which  quarter  it  has  been  blowing  steadily 
for  the  last  twenty  days,  which  has,  of  course,  almost  en- 
tirely prevented  our  making  any  progress.  Dec.  15. 
Spoke  a  Swedish  brig,  the  "Oberon,"  from  Rio  de  Janeiro 
— light  baffling  weather — provisions  almost  gone.  Dec. 
20.  Passed  a  barque  on  opposite  tacks,  within  a  few  feet 
of  him — spoke  him,  but  he  manifested  a  most  determined 
silence — no  colors  were  run  up."  A  summary  of  the 
days  in  which  we  have  experienced  head  winds,  exhibits 
the  lamentable  truth,  that  from  Nov.  27  to  Dec.  22,  a  pe- 
riod of  twenty-five  days,  we  have  encountered  a  constant 
succession  of  head  winds,  with  but  rare  exceptions,  and 


334  THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 

those  of  very  short  continuance.  On  Nov.  27th  our  lati- 
tude was  27°  56'  S. ;  and  on  Dec.  22,  it  was  23°  44' 
showing  an  advance  of  only  4°  12',  or  two  hundred  and 
fifty  two  miles  in  twenty-five  days,  which  gives  us  an 
average  of  ten  miles  per  day.  The  Flora  is  a  most  mis- 
erable sailer,  and  for  beating  to  windward,  a  tub  with  a 
large  pocket  handkerchief  for  a  sail  could  do  almost  as 
well.  The  vessels  mentioned  above,  out-sailed  us  to  such 
a  degree,  that  although  they  were  first  seen  upon  our  lee 
quarter,  yet  they  worked  up  to  windward,  and  were  out 
of  sight  of  us  before  the  next  day.  Such  a  superiority  is 
very  humiliating;  for  the  feelings  of  the  voyager  become 
intimately  associated  with  his  ship,  and  the  character  she 
exhibits  is  an  object  of  no  ordinary  interest  to  him.  It 
reminds  us  of  the  commencement  of  the  fable  of  "  The 
Hare  and  the  Tortoise,"  in  which  the  Hare  is  soon  out  of 
si^ht  leaving  the  tortoise  laffffinsr  on  behind.  It  would  be 
some  consolation  if  we  could  entertain  the  animating 
hope  declared  at  the  end  of  the  fable,  that  "  slow  and 
steady  wins  the  race ;"  but  by  numerous  irresistible 
proofs,  we  have  arrived  at  the  conclusion,  that  the  Flora 
is  an  anomaly,  setting  all  established  rules  at  defiance. 
Standing  east  on  one  tack,  and  west  on  the  other,  we 
can  hardly  expect  to  make  much  northing.  To  do  this 
craft  justice,  however,  she  possesses  one  desirable  quality, 
in  being  very  easy  in  a  gale  of  wind;  and  safe,  so  long  as 
she  has  a  plenty  of  sea  room. 

The  weather,  for  the  most  part,  is  now  delightful,  and 
were  it  not  that  we  are  short  of  provisions,  and  have  been 
entirely  destitute  of  vegetables  for  many  weeks,  it  would 
make  no  material  difference  with  me  to  be  detained  here 
much  longer.  Some  of  the  passengers  are  absolutely 
suffering  for  the  want  of  vegetables,  and  there  is  but  little 
prospect  of  relief  unless  the  wind  changes,  which  will, 


BRIGHTER     PROSPECTS.  335 

of  course  be  in  our  favor.  It  is  some  consolation,  when 
one  is  reduced  to  the  lowest  stage  of  misfortune,  to  know 
that  any  change  in  his  circumstances  must  necessarily 
prove  an  alleviation.  Those  that  are  shipwrecked  and 
meet  with  the  entire  loss  of  their  wardrobes,  are  admira- 
bly prepared  for  the  latest  fashions. 

The  Swedish  brig  we  spoke  the  other  day,  was  a 
beautiful  clipper  built  vessel,  and  Oberon  himself,  king 
of  the  fairies,  would  have  felt  honored  by  having  his 
name  adopted  by  so  elegant  a  craft.  She  was  from  Rio 
de  Janeiro,  bound  to  Falmouth,  England,  with  English 
property  on  board,  which  was  owing  to  a  panic  among 
the  English  at  that  city,  from  a  report  that  has  just  reach- 
ed them,  that  France  and  England  were  on  the  eve  of 
war ;  and  they  therefore  entrusted  their  property  to  a 
neutral  flag.  This  intelligence  was  highly  interesting 
to  us,  as  we  were  liable  to  be  intercepted  and  annoyed  by 
cruizers  of  either  nation,  and  afforded  an  ample  fund  for 
conversation  for  some  time. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  22.  After  many  most  melancholy  sup- 
pers upon  hard  bread  and  molasses  (our  butter  disap- 
peared more  than  two  months  since)  a  note  of  joy  was 
heard  throughout  the  ship,  which  diffused  a  smile  of  glad- 
ness over  every  face.  A  barrel  of  flour  was  found,  which 
had  eluded  the  strict  search  that  had  been  made  for  it, 
and  it  was  with  feelings  of  thanksgiving  that  we  saw  it 
committed  to  the  hands  of  the  steward. 

Wednesday  Dec.  23.  If  "  woes  cluster,"  it  is  perhaps 
equally  true  that  tokens  of  prosperity  are  not  solitary  vis- 
iters. It  is  so  with  us  ;  for  the  ship  is  heading  north  with 
a  fine  breeze  from  the  eastward,  probably  the  first  im- 
pulse of  the  S.  E.  trade  wind. 

It  may  not  prove  uninteresting  to  take  a  sketch  of  the 
manner  in  which  we  spend  our  time.     In  the  morning, 


336  THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 

before  eight  o'clock — the  breakfast  hour— the  missionary 
families  hold  prayer  in  their  respective  state-rooms.  As 
to  myself,  I  seize  upon  this  time,  as  the  most  quiet  period 
from  sunrise  to  sunset,  for  reading  or  writing.  At  half 
past  seven  o'clock,  commence  the  percussion  of  jumping 
ropes,  squealing,  and  other  indications  that  "this  is  the 
age  of  oddities  let  loose."  From  ten  to  twelve,  I  read  in 
some  favorite  author  to  Mrs.  Bingham  upon  deck,  who  is 
usually  joined  by  the  young  ladies  and  others.  From 
twelve  o'clock  M.  until  dinner  is  announced,  we  are 
again  entertained  by  a  prelude  in  clicker  clack!  clicker 
clack !  clicker  clack!  from  half  a  dozen  jumping  ropes, 
which  although  they  are  stringed  instruments  are  of  the 
most  intolerable  character.  We  dine  at  one  o'clock, 
but  are  glad  to  dispatch  our  viands  as  soon  as  possible, 
to  make  our  escape  from  the  hard  and  uncomfortable 
benches  upon  which  we  sit,  and  also  from  the  noise  of 
the  creaking:  bulkheads,  which  is  so  loud  as  almost  to 
forbid  conversation.  After  dinner,  we  take  a  stroll  upon 
deck,  not  to  work  off  its  effects,  however,  for  we  are  nev- 
er guilty  of  the  sin  of  satiety,  although  it  may  be  ques- 
tioned how  far  our  abstemiousness  is  a  virtue.  At  four 
o'clock  the  sounds  from  the  deck  announce  that  the  ju- 
venile part  of  the  Flora's  passengers  is  on  the  qui  vive, 
and  these  are  unceasing  for  the  hour  and  a  half  that  suc- 
ceeds. After  supper,  we  promenade  the  deck ;  some 
walking  arm-in-arm  with  the  ladies,  and  entertaining 
them  with  the  latest  news,  or  cultivating  scandal, 
which  is  always  prolific  when  there  is  a  vacuity  of  sense 
or  of  news,  as  is  the  case  in  the  present  instance.  As  for 
myself,  I  prefer  my  solitary  walk  upon  deck ;  or  leaning 
over  the  rail,  or  mounting  up  the  rigging,  to  review  what 
1  may  have  heard  or  read  worth  remembering — to  recall 
the  happy  hours  of  days  long  since  passed  away,  and  to 


EMPLOYMENT     OF     TIME.  337 

picture  to  myself  the  lineaments  of  my  own  dear  home. 

"  Oh  !  what  can  sanctify  the  joys  of  home 
Like  hope's  gay  glance  from  Ocean's  troubled  foam." 

At  eight  o'clock,  public  prayers  are  held  in  the  steerage, 
and  this  interesting  exercise  is  usually  attended  by  all, 
except  the  officer  of  the  watch  and  the  man  at  the  wheel. 
Upon  the  Sabbath,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Bingham  delivers  a  dis- 
course, both  in  the  morning  and  in  the  afternoon,  which 
is  often  accompanied  with  earnest  appeals  to  the  sea- 
men. The  two  or  three  hours  succeeding  evening  pray- 
ers are  devoted  by  myself  to  study,  or  reading,  and  they 
are  the  most  favorable  as  far  as  respects  quiet,  of  the 
twenty  four  hours.  At  half  past  ten,  the  gentlemen  take 
a  bath  upon  deck,  and  we  then  retire  to  our  berths,  most 
delightfully  refreshed,  and  prepared  for  uninterrupted 
slumbers. 

29 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

THE   SOUTH  ATLANTIC. 
Stores  of  the  Flora — Pernambtjco — Harbor. 

Tuesday >  December  29.  It  has  already  been  intima 
ted  that  we  are  almost  out  of  provisions,  and  although 
the  subject  of  eating-  and  drinking  may  have  a  very 
unpoetical  aspect,  yet  to  the  voyager,  whose  supplies  an 
almost  exhausted,  and  himself  at  a  distance  from  an 
port  where  they  may  be  procured,  it  becomes  an  object 
of  prominent  interest.  Such  is  our  situation,  and  as  we 
hear  that  one  article  after  another  is  entirely  exhausted, 
and  perceive  that  some  of  the  passengers  are  suffering 
from  the  unpalatable  diet  to  which  they  are  subjected, 
we  cannot  but  feel  an  anxiety  about  the  meagre  condi- 
tion of  our  stores,  which  constitutes  the  principal  theme 
of  conversation.  In  approaching  ^his  subject,  it  is  not  in 
a  spirit  of  censoriousness,  nor  with  a  design  of  attributing 
our  illiberal  fare  to  any  thing  but  miscalculation. 

From  the  list  of  stores  for  the  barque  Flora,  I  might 
easily  make  a  selection  which  would  convince  any  one 
acquainted  with  the  subject,  that  the  most  economical 
calculations  were  made  in  fitting  out  this  ship  with 
twenty  passengers  for  a  voyage  of  five  months,  or  at 
best,  that  extremely  inadequate  views  of  human  wants 
were  entertained.  The  closeness  manifested  in  the  supply 
of  some  of  the  items,  would  appear  ludicrous  to  any 
one,  unless  like  ourselves,  he  had  to  bear  the  consequen- 


STORES     OF    THE     FLORA.  339 

ces.     In  our  table  furniture,  no  allowance  was  made  for 
breakage,  a  very  natural  occurrence,  particularly  at  sea, 
and  hence  we  find  ourselves  reduced  to  three  tumblers 
out  of  the  dozen  put  on  board.     During  our  passage 
from  Honolulu  to  Tahiti,  our  table  exhibited  itself  to  far 
greater  advantage  than  it  has  done  at  any  subsequent 
time.     Even  then,  the  rigid  economy  with  which  our 
viands  were  prepared,  would  have  amused  one  accus- 
tomed to  any  degree  of  liberality.     For  the  passengers, 
upon  all  occasions,  swept  off  every  thing  from  the  dishes, 
so  that  not  a  fragment  should  be  left.     As  an  instance 
of  the  inadequate  supply  of  provisions   for  so  long  a 
voyage,  I  will  mention,  that  two  barrels  of  flour  were 
consumed  during  our  passage  of  thirty  eight  days,  which 
constituted  two  fifths  of  all  we  had  on  board,  for  a  voy- 
age of  five  months.    Although  our  provisions  were  more 
varied  and  better  prepared  than  they  were  aboard  the 
North  America,  yet  in  that  good  old  ship,  our  food  was 
always  wholesome,  and  in  abundance,  so  that  we  always 
left  a  few  specimens  of  what  was  brought  upon  the  table. 
At   Tahiti,  two  barrels  of  flour  were  added   to  what 
remained ;  a  most  ample  allowance  one  would  suppose, 
judging   from  past  experience.     I   forbear   mentioning 
the  proportionate  relations  of  the  articles  on  the  table  to 
the  demands  of  the  passengers.    All  the  steward's  calcu- 
lations   were   carried   on   by   the   rules   of    Reduction 
descending^  of  which   he  exhibited  a   most  profound 
knowledge.     Our  meagre  amount  of  butter  was  entirely 
exhausted  before  we  had  doubled  Cape  Horn,  and  for 
more  than  two  months  we  have  been  compelled  to  make 
molasses  our  substitute,  of  which,  it  ought  to  be  regarded 
as  a  matter  of  rejoicing,  we  have  an  abundant  supply,  as 
the  ship  is  freighted  with  it.     Our  Sandwich  Islanders 
have  proved  themselves  to  be  Yankees,  in  one  important 


340  THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 

particular,  long  before  they  have  reached  the  shores  of 
New  England.  The  condition  of  our  stores  may  be 
inferred  from  the  fact,  that  for  several  days  we  have 
subsisted  upon  "salt  junk,  and  hard  tack,"*  with  beans 
for  variety  at  regular  intervals  ;  rather  disheartening  fare 
to  those  that  are  invalids,  as  is  the  case  with  one  or  two 
of  the  passengers. 

After  doubling  the  Cape,  the  necessity  of  replenishing 
our  stores  became  more  and  more  apparent  every  day. 
The  passengers,  in  frequent  consultations  with  one 
another,  in  private,  came  to  the  resolution  of  sending  a 
petition  to  Captain  Spring,  to  run  for  some  port,  where 
provisions  might  be  obtained.  The  resolution  was  carried 
into  effect,  and  a  manifesto  containing  a  representation 
of  the  exhausted  state  of  our  stores  and  its  effect  upon 
the  health  of  the  passengers,  and  subscribed  by  the  sig- 
natures of  all  the  gentlemen,  was  laid  before  the  captain. 
This  step  had  however,  been  anticipated  by  Captain  S.> 
who  requested  the  oldest  of  the  passengers  to  draw  up  a 
manifesto,  which,  bearing  the  signatures  of  all  the  gentle- 
men, would  shield  him  from  blame  in  the  event  of  any 
disaster  happening  to  the  ship  by  deviating  from  the 
course  prescribed  by  her  policy  of  insurance  ;  for  a  policy 
of  insurance  is  always  vitiated  by  a  ship  in  going  out  of 
the  course  specified  by  the  terms  of  the  agreement, 
unless  compelled  to  do  so  by  some  providential  occur- 
rence, that  could  not  have  been  anticipated. 

After  receiving  this  manifesto,  Captain  S.  determined 
to  put  in  at  Pernambuco,  a  town  upon  the  coast  not  far 
from  Cape  St.  Roque,  the  most  eastern  extremity  of  South 
America,  to  procure  a  supply  of  provisions.  For  a  few 
days  past,  we  have  had  a  very  good  run,  and  are  now 
within  three  or  four  hundred  miles  of  our  destined  port. 

*  Salt  meat  and  sea- bread. 


LAND    HO!  341 

Friday )  January  1,  1841.  Land  ho !  At  four  bells  in 
the  forenoon  watch,  the  dim  outline  of  the  coast  of 
South  America,  was  just  discernible  through  the  gloom 
resting  upon  it,  the  first  sight  of  terra-firma  that  has 
greeted  our  eyes  since  leaving  Tahiti,  a  period  of  three 
months.  If  those  that  have  been  at  sea  but  thirty  days, 
while  crossing  the  Atlantic,  a  distance  of  only  three 
thousand  miles,  and  faring  most  sumptuously  all  the  time 
aboard  those  splendid  packet  ships,  congratulate  them- 
selves upon  the  view  of  something  more  substantial  than 
the  ever  heaving  waters  around,  we,  that  for  thrice  that 
period,  have  been  traversing  stormy  seas,  and  encountered 
every  vicissitude  of  weather,  while  experimenting  in  the 
short  allowance  system,  have  a  legitimate  claim  to  exhibit 
more  than  ordinary  demonstrations  of  rejoicing  at  the 
sight  of  mother  earth.  The  children  upon  this  occasion, 
came  out  with  an  entirely  new  set  of  gymnastics,  and  ran 
round  the  deck  testifying  to  their  joy  by  very  expressive 
vociferations  of  delight.  In  about  a  couple  of  hours,  we 
ran  in  to  the  anchorage  off  Pernambuco,  where  were 
three  or  four  vessels  lying  at  anchor  in  the  open  road- 
stead outside  the  harbor,  about  two  miles  from  the  town. 
One  of  these  is  the  "  Nantucket,"  of  Nantucket,  a  whaler, 
bound  home  full  of  oil.  By  comparing  our  respective 
tracks,  after  doubling  Cape  Horn,  we  find  that  we  were 
not  alone  in  bad  luck.  Between  the  parallels  of  latitude 
27°  and  24°  south,  the  Nantucket  was  detained  for  thirty 
six  days  by  head  winds,  whereas  the  Flora  made  her 
escape  from  that  spell  bound  region  in  thirty  days.  This 
is  certainly  some  consolation  for  past  misfortunes,  for 

u  Misery  still  delights  to  trace 
Its  semblance  in  another's  case." 

Pernambuco  lies  in  about  8°  south  latitude,  upon  the 
most  eastern  extremity  of  Brazil,  within  two  or  three 

29* 


342  THE     SOUTH     ATLANTIC. 

days  sail  of  Cape  St.  Roque.  From  its  situation  not  far 
from  the  track  of  ships  bound  around  the  two  capes,  it  is 
a  place  of  very  frequent  resort  for  procuring  supplies ; 
and  not  only  this,  but  its  commercial  importance  is 
rapidly  increasing.  The  harbor  is  formed  by  a  coral 
reef  extending  in  front  of  the  town,  which  completely 
protects  the  shipping  inside,  from  the  fury  of  the  sea, 
which  accumulating  before  the  constant  trade  winds, 
thunders  upon  this  natural  breakwater,  rolling  up  its 
surges,  and  falling  in  a  sheet  of  pure  foam  into  the  quiet 
waters  of  the  bay.  By  the  assistance  of  art,  the  reef 
assumes  the  appearance  of  a  perpendicular  wall  towards 
the  city,  rising  eight  or  ten  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
harbor.  The  bay  thus  formed,  is  very  similar  to  that  of 
Papeete,  although  much  more  regular  in  its  outline.  The 
entrance  is  at  the  right  hand  side  of  the  reef,  and  the  bay 
runs  along  parallel  to  it,  upon  the  extremity  of  which, 
near  the  entrance,  stands  a  fine  lighthouse,  built  up  from 
a  solid  foundation  of  stone  work,  that  rises  to  the  height 
of  twenty  feet  or  more,  of  an  octagonal  figure.  It  is  a 
variegated  light,  as  it  is  called,  that  is,  the  light  assumes 
different  colors,  at  regular  intervals  of  every  few  moments. 
At  one  time,  it  is  of  a  dull  crimson  hue  ;  then  increasing 
rapidly  in  intensity,  it  shoots  up  into  a  most  vivid  glowing 
red,  when  it  gradually  wanes,  until  it  disappears.  Again 
it  makes  its  appearance,  but  with  a  totally  different 
aspect;  with  a  green  hue,  it  is  seen  slowly  emerging 
from  the  surrounding  darkness,  until  with  a  sickly  gleam 
it  spreads  across  the  waters,  and  then  in  turn  gives  place 
to  a  golden  yellow.  These  are  the  only  colors  displayed 
at  present,  although  there  were  two  or  three  more  exhib- 
ited at  the  first  establishment  of  the  lighthouse,  which 
are  now  disused  from  their  deficiency  in  vividness. 
The  appearance  of  the  city  is  rather  prepossessing  as 


PERNAMBUCO.  343 

seen  from  our  anchorage.  The  whitewashed  houses 
and  spires  of  the  numerous  churches  stand  out  in  bold 
relief  from  the  verdure  of  the  adjacent  country,  which 
though  low,  is  gently  undulating,  with  groves  of  cocoa- 
nut  trees  extending  in  dense  array  along  the  coast.  In 
all  Portuguese  places,  ships  are  exposed  to  numerous 
petty  vexations  from  the  officers  of  the  custom  house,  and 
of  the  health  office.  We  were  very  doubtful,  on  our 
passage  to  Pernambuco,  whether  we  should  be  allowed 
to  land  at  all,  as  we  had  obtained  no  bill  of  health  from 
Papeete,  the  last  port  we  visited.  "A  clean  bill  of 
health,"  as  it  is  called,  is  a  certificate  from  one  of  our 
consuls,  that  the  ship  is  entirely  free  from  any  contagious 
diseases,  upon  her  leaving  the  port  from  which  it  is  pro- 
cured;  this  certificate  is  always  respected,  and  usually 
insures  a  ship  somewhat  greater  facilities  in  communica- 
ting with  any  port  where  she  may  arrive. 

Soon  after  coming  to  anchor,  Captain  S.  rowed  into 
the  harbor,  to  ascertain  whether  we  should  be  allowed 
to  go  ashore.  Upon  entering  the  harbor,  he  was  obliged 
to  go  alongside  of  three  Brazilian  men-of-war  in  succes- 
sion, so  that  each  one  of  them  might  have  the  agreeable 
privilege  of  exhibiting  his  authority  before  the  strangers. 
We  were  very  glad  to  find  upon  his  return  to  the 
ship,  that  he  had  been  successful  in  his  application,  and 
that  the  gentlemen  would  have  an  opportunity  of  visiting 
the  city  upon  the  next  day. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

PERNAMBUCO. 

Katamarans — Churches — Splendor — Appearance  of  the  popu- 
lation —  Architecture  —  Fireworks  —  Supplies  purchased — 
Cross  the  equator. 

Saturday,  January  2.  This  morning-,  after  some 
delay,  we  started  from  our  floating  home,  to  refresh  our- 
selves with  a  ramble  on  shore,  prepared  for  all  the  sights 
and  sounds  that  might  present  themselves  in  a  strange 
city.  Our  progress  in  the  boat  was  slow  and  tedious 
enough,  as  may  be  easily  imagined,  when  we  consider 
that  our  craft  was  a  little  egg-shell  of  a  thing,  two  feet 
too  short  for  a  ship  of  three  hundred  tons,  and  laden 
down  to  the  water's  edge,  which  threatened  her  with  the 
danger  of  being  swamped  every  moment,  as  there  was 
a  heavy  swell  heaving  in  towards  the  land,  and  espe- 
cially, as  we  had  a  long  line  of  large  water  casks  towing 
after  us.  Our  anticipations  for  the  safety  and  condition 
of  our  respective  persons  were  therefore  by  no  means  of 
a  favorable  character.  We  escaped  however,  without 
any  other  misfortunes  than  being  sprinkled  with  salt 
water,  and  having  the  skirts  of  our  coats,  in  one  or  two 
instances,  thoroughly  saturated  with  brine  by  trailing 
over  the  side  of  the  boat,  through  the  carelessness  of  their 


KATAMARANS.  345 

owners.  Upon  entering  the  harbor,  we  were  astonished 
at  the  quantity  of  shipping  lying  there.  Over  a  hundred 
sail  of  vessels  from  a  great  variety  of  nations,  were 
displaying  their  colors  to  the  breeze.  A  steamboat,  bear- 
ing the  Brazilian  flag,  lay  at  anchor  in  the  bay.  She 
was  built  in  England,  and  like  all  English  steamers,  is  a 
black  heavy  looking  structure. 

On  the  side  of  the  bay  opposite  the  entrance,  is  a  wide 
beach,  upon  which  great  numbers  of  katamara?is,  or 
fishermen's  craft,  were  hauled  up.  The  singular  form 
of  these  frail  structures — for  they  can  hardly  be  called 
boats — claims  a  particular  notice.  They  consist  of  sever- 
al logs  of  light  wood,  varying  in  numbers,  from  three  to 
six  or  seven  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty  five  feet  in  length, 
bound  securely  together  by  wooden  bolts  passing  through 
them.  Upon  the  upper  side  there  is  a  strong  frame  work 
fixed  amid-ships,  which  holds  a  box  to  contain  any  fish 
that  may  be  captured,  and  also  serves  to  keep  the  voy- 
agers from  rolling  off.  A  triangular  sail  of  great  dimen- 
sions, and  the  broad  steering  oar,  complete  the  tout  en- 
semble of  these  fantastic  specimens  of  naval  architec- 
ture, in  which  the  hardy  fishermen  dash  over  the  ocean 
wave,  with  the  foam  and  spray  hiding  their  craft  from 
view,  so  that  but  occasional  glimpses  of  her  are  seen  as 
she  rises  upon  the  crests  of  the  billows,  while  "  all  hands  " 
are  standing  up  on  the  weather  side,  with  the  water  up 
to  their  knees,  and  grasping  the  frame  work  to  prevent 
their  being  washed  overboard  in  the  plunging  of  the 
katamaran.  These  frail  craft  are  often  seen  stretching 
out  to  sea  beyond  the  sight  of  land,  and  working  to 
windward  with  astonishing  velocity. 

Just  back  of  the  beach,  commences  a  line  of  buildings, 
which  following  the  curvature  of  the  shore,  extends  to 
the  public  quays,  about  which  lie  the  principal  part  of 


346  PERNAMBUCO 


3  by  a 


the  shipping.  We  were  met  at  the  landing  place  by 
gentleman  connected  with  an  American  mercantile 
house  in  the  city,  who  conducted  us  to  his  office.  After 
attending  to  the  putting  up  of  our  private  stores— of 
which,  warned  by  past  experience,  we  had  determined 
to  have  enough — we  were  invited  to  take  breakfast  in  an 
upper  room,  where  we  sat  down  in  delightful  bachelor 
style  to  a  glorious  breakfast  of  steaks,  ham  and  potatoes, 
spread  out  in  a  style  of  profusion  to  which  our  eyes  had 
long  been  strangers.  We  had  carte  blanche  given  us  to 
call  for  any  thing  we  wished,  which  we  were  not  dila- 
tory in  availing  ourselves  of,  and  kept  the  Portuguese 
servant  circulating  between  the  kitchen  and  the  dining 
room,  with  a  frequency  and  earnestness  that  was  a  mat- 
ter of  astonishment  to  him  ;  for  we  recollected  that  before 
the  day  was  over,  we  should  be  obliged  to  return  to  the 
Flora,  and  each  one  applied  to  himself  the  injunction 
of  the  poet  "take  the  good  the  gods  provide  thee,"  with 
a  becoming  sense  of  his  individual  responsibility.  Indeed, 
we  left  no  room  for  the  regret  expressed  by  Stephen 
Burroughs,  when  nearly  famished  in  jail — "that  he  had 
not  eaten  more  when  he  had  the  opportunity." 

After  breakfast,  we  visited  a  church  in  the  immediate 
vicinity.  In  all  Roman  Catholic  countries,  this  season 
of  the  year,  commencing  with  Christmas  and  extending 
along  for  several  weeks,  is  devoted  to  rejoicings  of  every 
kind.  The  churches  during  the  whole  time,  are  thrown 
open,  masses  are  performed  with  great  frequency,  and  a 
general  holiday  is  proclaimed  among  all  classes.  There 
are  several  large  churches  in  Pernambuco,  two  or  three 
of  which  were  visited  during  our  ramble.  In  the  first 
one  we  entered,  public  mass  was  in  performance,  which 
we  mistook  at  first,  for  the  rehearsal  of  some  military 
band,  from  the  martial  sounds  issuing  from  the  edifice. 


CHURCHES.  347 

The  interior  of  this  church — the  finest  in  some  respects 
of  any  in  Pernambuco,  presented  a  splendor  and  glare  of 
ornament  that  was  highly  imposing.  In  common  with 
all  the  churches  we  examined,  it  is  arranged  in  the  form 
of  a  cross,  at  the  upper  end  of  which,  is  an  image  of  the 
Savior,  hanging  upon  the  cross,  with  the  utmost  agony 
depicted  in  the  expression  of  his  countenance,  and  in  the 
contortions  of  his  body,  and  with  streams  of  blood  gush- 
ing from  his  hands  and  his  side,  a  representation  that 
can  not  but  affect  the  sympathies  of  every  worshipper. 
The  ceiling  above  the  cross  is  carved  and  gilded  in  the 
most  elaborate  and  costly  manner,  and  in  this  recess  are 
some  fine  scriptural  paintings.  Besides  the  image  of  the 
Savior,  there  are  six  or  eight  images  of  saints  fixed  in 
niches  in  the  walls,  with  paintings  illustrating  scenes  in 
the  lives  of  these  holy  personages.  The  Host,  which  is 
carried  about  the  streets  on  great  occasions,  escorted  by 
a  procession  of  priests,  is  about  twenty  feet  in  height,  and 
is  covered  over  with  glittering  tapestry  of  velvet  and 
tinsel.  The  vestibule  and  the  aisle  leading  up  to  the 
altar,  are  paved  in  Mosaic,  and  the  latter  is  defended  by 
heavy  balustrades  upon  each  side.  There  are  no  pews 
in  these  churches  as  in  ours,  and  the  only  provision  for 
seats,  consists  in  a  range  of  mahogany  chairs  upon  each 
side  of  the  aisle  adjoining  the  balustrades.  A  number  of 
priests,  dressed  in  their  sacerdotal  robes,  consisting  of  a 
light  tunic  of  white  gauze  worn  over  a  black  gown,  were 
performing  the  ceremonies  of  mass,  which  were,  of  course, 
all  pantomime  to  us.  The  orchestra  was  ranged  along 
on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  church  near  the  altar,  and 
numbered  thirty  or  forty  musicians,  whose  martial 
instruments  uniting  in  a  full  burst  of  harmony,  re-echoed 
with  grand  effect  from  the  lofty  ceiling.  There  is  some- 
thing extremely  imposing  in  the  ceremonies  of  the  Roman 


348  PERNAMBUCO. 

Catholic  church,  and  it  is  not  wonderful  that  this  religion, 
by  the  pomp  and  glitter  of  its  devotional  exercises,  and 
by  the  charms  of  noble  music,  whose  solemn  strains  thrill 
through  every  feeling  of  the  worshipper,  is  so  firmly  riv- 
eted upon  those  countries  where  it  holds  its  sway. 

In  viewing  the  splendor  of  this  church,  the  principal 
objects  that  attracted  our  attention,  were  the  immense 
number  of  waxen  candles,  that  were  kept  constantly  burn- 
ing before  the  cross  of  the  Savior,  the  images  of  the  saints, 
and  the  Host,  which  were  supported  in  massive  silver 
candlesticks.  There  could  not  have  been  less  than  sev- 
enty or  eighty  of  the  smaller  size,  weighing,  upon  a  gen- 
eral average,  not  far  from  thirty  pounds.  Besides  these, 
there  were  eight  or  ten  of  an  immense  size,  four  feet  or 
more  in  height,  surrounding  the  Host.  Respecting  the 
value  of  these  costly  utensils,  we — Yankee  like— were 
making  some  calculations,  as  the  religious  ceremonies 
were  proceeding.  Thirty  pounds  of  silver — the  suppos- 
ed weight  of  the  smaller  size — are  worth  about  four  hun- 
dred and  fifty  dollars  ;  and  as  there  were  as  many  as  sev- 
enty of  them  in  all,  their  aggregate  value  could  not  be 
less  than  thirty-one  thousand  five  hundred  dollars.  Of 
the  larger  size,  one  would  probably  be  equal  in  weight  to 
five  of  the  smaller.  Allowing  that  there  were  eight 
of  these,  their  aggregate  value  would  be  nearly 
eighteen  thousand  dollars;  so  that  the  silver  candlesticks 
alone,  in  this  church,  are  worth  about  forty-nine  thou- 
sand five  hundred  dollars.  If  the  value  of  the  other  sil- 
ver utensils  that  come  into  service  during  the  complica- 
ted ceremonies,  which  are,  undoubtedly,  of  a  correspond- 
ing richness  of  material,  is  annexed  to  the  sum  computed 
above,  the  calculation  swells  to  an  immense  amount. 
And  when  it  is  recollected  that  this  is  but  one  of  the  ma- 
ny churches  in  this  city,  all  of  which  are  furnished  in  a 


RELIGIOUS     VENERATION.  349 

somewhat  similar  style  of  magnificence,  astonishment 
must  succeed  the  calculation  of  the  vast  sums  lavished 
upon  them.  While  examining:  the  magnificence  of  these 
palaces  of  superstition,  it  seemed  strange  to  me,  that  we, 
who  believe  in  a  purer  faith,  which  awakens  the  religious 
sensibilities  by  a  direct  appeal  to  the  words  of  truth,  in- 
stead of  paralyzing  them  by  unmeaning  rites,  by  repres- 
sing the  scriptures,  and  tolerating  the  most  gross  immor- 
alities, should  ever  suffer  our  religion  to  languish  for 
want  of  suitable  funds  to  enable  it  to  carry  on  its  opera- 
tions, and  make  such  illiberal  provision,  as  is  too  frequent- 
ly the  case,  for  those  who  minister  at  its  sacred  ordinan- 
ces. Previous  to  entering  the  church,  we  were  caution- 
ed to  take  off  our  hats,  before  crossing  the  threshold  of 
the  outer  door,  and  not  to  replace  them  until  we  had 
passed  entirely  out  of  the  house ;  otherwise  we  might  be 
treated  with  rudeness.  When  I  saw  the  scrupulous  care 
manifested  by  those  that  entered  the  church  in  the  remo- 
val of  their  hats,  and  in  putting  them  on  again  in  leav- 
ing, I  must  confess  that  the  veneration  for  their  church 
thus  exhibited,  had  a  far  better  appearance  than  the  ill- 
mannered  custom — to  call  it  by  its  least  objectionable  ep- 
ithet— that  obtains  very  generally  in  the  United  States, 
of  wearing:  our  hats  sometime  after  entering  the  church, 
and  of  putting  them  on  again,  almost  as  soon  as  we  have 
risen  from  our  seats.  There  are  other  considerations,  in 
which  an  imitation  of  the  Roman  Catholics  would  be  at- 
tended with  advantage.  They  have  connections  with 
the  faculty  of  reverence,  in  which  my  countrymen  are 
said  by  phrenologists  to  be  deficient.  Their  constant 
habit  of  deep  reverence  for  their  church,  guards  them 
against  expressions  of  disrespect  to  her  observances. 
We  have  far  less  veneration  for  the  sacredness  of  a  place 
consecrated  to  the  offices  of  religion,  as  such,  than  the 

30 


350  PERNAMBUCO. 

Roman  Catholics  have  for  their  places  of  worship,  and 
scenes  are  occurring  in  our  churches,  which  a  Roman 
Catholic  would  look  upon  with  indignation,  as  a  profa- 
nation of  his  sanctuary.  That  high  degree  of  respect 
for  those  who  are  devoted  to  the  offices  of  religion  which 
the  Roman  Catholic  entertains,  is  far  less  prevalent  with 
us.  While  we  speak  with  the  utmost  freedom  and  not 
unfrequently  with  disrespect  of  those  whose  sacred  office, 
if  nothing  else,  should  teach  us  to  revere  them,  the  Ro- 
man Catholic  would  shrink  from  the  sin  of  calumniating 
his  priest. 

After  spending  half  an  hour  or  more  in  this  church, 
we  took  a  walk  around  the  city  commenting  upon  the 
appearance  of  the  population,  as  we  saw  it  represented  in 
the  well  dressed  gentleman  who  passed  us  with  an  im- 
portant air  down  to  the  grovelling  slave,  whose  vacant 
look  seemed  almost  to  indicate,  that  "  his  race  is  a  con- 
necting link  between  man  and  the  inferior  order  of  ani- 
mals," as  is  sometimes  asserted.  The  free  part  of  the 
population  were  very  well  dressed,  and  gentlemen  in 
passing  one  another,  raised  their  hats  in  the  most  grace- 
ful manner,  which  it  would  be  well  for  Americans  to  im- 
itate, as  a  substitute  for  the  careless  nod  or  the  cold 
"  How  are  you  V\  the  customary  salutation  of  acquaintan- 
ces in  the  streets.  We  saw  numerous  soldiers  in  the 
streets,  either  standing  guard  at  the  corners  or  before 
public  buildings,  or  promenading  like  ourselves,  which 
indicated  very  forcibly  that  we  were  in  the  domains  of 
despotism.  They  are  well  dressed  and  finely  formed 
young  men,  though  rather  small,  and  what  would  sur- 
prise us,  who,  with  all  our  benevolence,  maintain  the 
strongest  antipathies  to  our  fellow  men,  are  of  all  shades 
of  color,  from  white  down  to  the  dark,  wooly  race  of  Af- 
rica, and  were  to  be  seen  walking  arm-in-arm  in  every 


THE     POPULATION.  351 

direction,  unconscious  apparently,  of  any  difference. 
Gentlemen  of  the  ebony  race  received  the  salutations  of 
the  whites  in  exchange  for  their  own,  and  I  could  not 
but  feel  a  sincere  pity  for  the  people  of  color  in  my  own 
country,  who  are  doomed  to  an  inferior  condition  in  life, 
by  the  deeply  fixed  prejudices  of  society.  As  to  the 
genuine  African,  whose  infancy  was  nurtured  amid  the 
hot  sands  of  the  opposite  continent,  and  who  was  brought 
hither  in  the  hold  of  the  slave  ship,  there  seems  to  be 
very  little  hope  for  him.  He  is  the  most  abject  specimen 
of  the  human  race  I  ever  saw,  but  perhaps,  is  not  more 
unpromising  in  appearance,  than  negro  slaves,  wherever 
they  are  found.  The  men  that  were  not  engaged  in 
active  exercise,  in  transporting  merchandize,  or  in  other 
laborious  occupations,  were  employed  in  braiding  straw 
for  the  manufacture  of  hats.  Whenever  there  are  sever- 
al of  them  engaged  in  removing  a  heavy  article  of  mer- 
chandize upon  their  shoulders,  they  keep  step  by  a  mon- 
otonous grunt,  "Hu,  hu,  hu-e  !"  in  a  similar  style  with 
that  which  obtains  among  the  islanders  of  the  Pacific. 
The  women  are  the  most  revolting  specimens  of  the 
fairer  portion  of  creation  I  have  as  yet  had  the  felicity  of 
beholding.  Their  principal  employment  in  the  streets, 
appeared  to  be  in  carrying  burdens  upon  their  heads, 
which  are  protected  by  little  pads  resting  upon  their 
craniums.  In  this,  they  are  very  expert,  balancing 
whatever  they  carry  with  remarkable  precision,  so  that 
they  move  about  with  the  utmost  nonchalance,  talking 
and  laughing  all  the  time,  without  disturbing  their  equi- 
librium. At  other  times  they  are  occupied  in  sell- 
ing fruits  and  vegetables  near  the  corners  of  the 
streets,  for  there  are  no  houses  in  this  city  appropriated 
to  markets.  The  population  of  Pernambuco  is  not  far 
from  seventy  thousand,  of  which  nearly  two  thirds  are 


352  PERNAMBUCO. 

slaves,  a  state  of  things  not  more  deplorable  than  what 
obtains  in  some  sections  of  our  country.  The  importa- 
tion of  slaves  is  prohibited  by  the  government,  yet  thou- 
sands are  annually  smuggled  in  by  the  connivance  of 
underlings  in  office. 

••  In  our  ramble,  we  passed  over  two  fine  bridges,  cross- 
ing a  small  river  which  empties  into  the  bay,  and  extended 
our  walk  as  far  as  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  stopping  fre- 
quently to  admire  the  delightful  residences  of  gentlemen 
of  wealth,  which  are  surrounded  by  ample  grounds, 
crossed  by  elegant  terraces  and  ornamented  with  lovely 
parterres.  The  country  in  the  rear  of  the  city,  is  highly 
verdant,  varied  here  and  there  with  rich  meads,  which 
are  overshadowed  by  the  dense  dark  foliage  of  the  tall 
and  wide  spreading  mango,  the  graceful  palm,  and  other 
noble  trees  of  the  country.  The  mango  is  a  variety  of 
fruit  about  the  size  of  one's  fist,  resembling  in  shape  the 
fruit  of  the  egg  plant  we  have  in  the  United  States. 
When  the  thick  rind  is  torn  off,  a  rich  golden  yellow 
fruit  is  disclosed,  of  a  fibrous  nature,  somewhat  like  that 
of  a  cling-stone  peach,  enveloping  a  large  white  pit  of  an 
oval  form,  two  inches  perhaps,  in  length,  to  which  the 
pulp  adheres  with  great  tenacity.  The  flavor  of  the 
mango,  is  that  of  the  pine-apple  thoroughly  impregnated 
with  spruce. 

Brazil  produces  all  the  fruits  of  the  tropics  in  the 
highest  degree  of  luxuriance,  and  besides  these,  coffee  is 
cultivated  very  extensively,  so  that  the  immense  amount 
of  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  million  pounds  is  an- 
nually exported  from  this  Empire,  which  is  nearly  one 
half  of  all  that  is  consumed  throughout  the  world. 

About  five  o'clock  P.  M ,  we  started  out  for  the  ship 
in  a  clumsy  Portuguese  boat,  and  were  entertained  for 
more  than  an  hour,  during  our  slow  and  tedious  passage 


FIRE-WORKS.  353 

by  the  ceaseless  chattering  of  the  negroes  who  rowed 
the  boat.  We  were  obliged  to  pay  six  dollars  for 
the  hire  of  this  boat,  which  is  a  good  illustration  of  the 
exorbitant  charges  for  every  thing  we  purchased  at  Per- 
nambuco.  A  ship  could  be  provided  with  supplies  at 
the  Sandwich  Islands  at  a  far  cheaper  rate  than  at  this 
city,  although  they  are  six  times  as  far  removed  from 
communication  with  the  great  commercial  nations. 

We  found  the  ladies  anxiously  awaiting  our  arrival, 
and  lamenting  over  the  gloomy  uncomfortable  time  that 
had  passed  during  our  absence,  and  which  they  were 
pleased  to  say,  our  return  had  tended  to  enliven,  a  state 
of  affairs  highly  flattering  to  our  vanity,  although  benev- 
olence and  courtesy  prompted  us  to  express  the  desire 
that  our  welcome  had  been  suggested  by  other  causes. 
We  were  careful  to  reciprocate  such  compliments,  by 
assuring  them,  how  often,  during  our  delightful  excur- 
sion, we  regretted  the  necessity  of  their  remaining  aboard 
the  ship,  and  of  their  being  denied  the  pleasure  of  a  stroll 
upon  terra  firma. 

Sunday,  January  3.  We  had  anticipated  going 
ashore  this  morning,  to  witness  the  ceremonies  of  grand 
mass,  which  we  understood  were  to  be  celebrated  with 
unusual  magnificence,  but  the  danger  of  the  ship  being 
obliged  to  get  under  way,  and  stand  out  to  sea,  in  case 
our  ground  tackling  should  give  out,  detained  ns  aboard 
the  Flora.  This  evening,  at  intervals  of  every  few  min- 
utes, rockets  are  seen  shooting  upward  from  the  city 
with  their  fiery  trains,  and  exploding  in  brilliant  scintil- 
lations. The  fire- works,  we  were  told,  were  to  be  on  the 
grandest  scale,  exhibiting  almost  every  variety  of  pyro- 
technics, a  display  not  very  well  comporting  with  our 
ideas  of  the  proper  observance  of  the  sabbath,  and  not 
very  well  calculated  to  inspire  devotional  feelings  in  the 

30» 


354  PERNAMBUCO. 

spectators.  A  religion  whose  rites  consist  in  a  great 
degree  of  holidays  and  amusements  cannot  but  be  accep- 
table to  human  nature. 

Thursday,  January  7.  On  Monday  last,  we  left  our 
anchorage  off  Pernambuco,  and  with  a  fine  fresh  breeze, 
that  swelled  our  sails,  the  shores  of  South  America  soon 
receded  from  view.  Before  long  we  were  again  upon 
the  open  ocean,  and  as  sail  after  sail  was  distended  to 
the  breeze,  that  was  speeding  us  on  our  course,  the  old 
ship  seemed  to  wing  her  way,  with  renewed  life,  towards 
our  dear  native  land. 

The  supplies  purchased  for  the  ship  were  on  a  tolera- 
bly liberal  scale  ;  as  far  as  regards  the  cost  of  them,  we 
ought  most  certainly  to  be  satisfied.  Owing  to  the  ex- 
orbitant charges  for  every  thing,  a  sum  rather  more  than 
three  hundred  dollars  was  expended  for  articles,  whose 
reasonable  value  could  not  exceed  two  thirds  of  this 
amount.  Our  potatoes,  of  which  v/e  had  but  the  meagre 
supply  often  bushels  for  a  voyage,  ordinarily  of  thirty  or 
thirty-five  days,  were  found  to  be  disappearing  with  the 
most  alarming  rapidity,  when  it  was  ascertained  that  they 
had  been  invaded  by  the  huge  rats,  that  throng  in 
immense  numbers  the  old  Flora,  and  are  heard  racing 
about  among  the  timbers,  squealing  and  making 
all  sorts  of  noises  to  disturb  our  rest  at  night.  While 
we  were  at  Tahiti,  Captain  Hall  and  myself  had  cut  a 
great  number  of  elegant  orange  wood  canes,  which  were 
intended  for  presents  to  our  friends  at  home.  After  we 
had  been  out  at  sea  for  about  a  month,  the  captain  drew 
his  canes  out  of  the  locker  in  the  back  of  his  state-room, 
when  great  was  his  astonishment  and  chagrin,  to  find 
that  these  beautiful  sticks  had  been  completely  stripped 
of  their  bark  by  these  voracious  vermin.  While  the 
oranges  I  purchased  at  Tahiti  lasted.  I  was  accustomed 


CROSS     THE     EaUATpR.  355 

to  look  them  over  every  morning,  to  throw  away  what 
remained  of  those  whose  contents  had  been  purloined 
daring  the  night. 

We  crossed  the  equator  this  evening  in  longitude  37° 
5(K  west,  making  the  tenth  time  I  have  crossed  it  since 
leaving  the  United  States.  The  children  were  all  stim- 
ulated with  the  prospect  of  seeing  the  line,  which  how- 
ever, was  not  apparent  to  the  unassisted  vision,  but 
through  the  spy-glass,  it  was  represented  in  a  broad 
distinct  band  crossing  the  field  of  view,  which  may  be 
readily  accounted  for,  by  supposing  a  string  to  be  drawn 
across  one  of  the  lenses  of  the  instrument. 

Monday,  January  11.  We  ran  across  the  equator 
with  a  fine  breeze,  and  were  anticipating  a  most  disa- 
greeable time  in  the  latitude  of  calms  and  rain,  but  our 
expectations  have  been  most  agreeably  disappointed.  On 
Friday  night  last,  the  wind  hauled  round  to  the  north- 
east in  a  heavy  squall,  and  has  continued  to  blow  from 
that  quarter  ever  since ;  so  that  we  left  the  south-east 
trade  winds,  to  resume  the  north-east,  without  any  disa- 
greeable intermission  of  squalls,  deluging  rain,  with 
thunder  and  lightning,  rendered  the  more  intolerable  by 
the  suffocating  heat  below.  This  evening,  we  caught 
the  glimmer  of  the  north  star  in  the  mist  that  invests 
the  horizon,  after  having  lost  sight,  for  so  long  a  time 
of  his  friendly  ray  that  looks  mildly  down  upon  our 
dear  homes  in  New  England.  Several  evenings  since, 
we  recognized  the  Great  Bear,  elevating  his  starry 
dipper  above  the  dark  waters,  telling  us  that  our  wan- 
derings upon  the  ocean  were  drawing  towards  their 
close. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

HOME. 


Bathing— Sailor's  fare — Cape  Hatteras— "  Land  ho  !" — Anchor 
at  Sandy  Hook. 


Thursday,  January  21.  Since  leaving  Pernambuco, 
we  have  had  a  very  fine  run,  with  a  strong  breeze  all  the 
time,  and  frequently  more  than  would  admit  of  our  car- 
rying studding  sails.  To-day  we  passed  out  of  the 
tropic  of  Cancer  in  the  longitude  of  the  Bermuda  islands. 

Not  long  after  doubling  Cape  Horn,  the  passengers 
adopted  a  course  of  frequent  bathing,  as  soon  as  the  tem- 
perature of  the  air  and  water  would  admit  of  it,  which 
has  been  pronounced  by  all,  to  be  attended  with  very 
beneficial  effect  upon  the  health.  For  the  ladies,  a  large 
tub,  which  was  secured  by  a  sail  supported  on  a  frame, 
answered  the  purpose  of  a  bath  room.  This  arrange- 
ment would  do  very  well  for  one  person,  but  I  did  not 
much  envy  the  seventh  or  eighth  in  the  series.  The 
gentlemen  preferred  the  evening,  and  at  half  past  nine 
or  ten  o'clock,  we  followed  one  another  upon  deck.  The 
method  we  adopted  had  several  advantages.  Drawing 
twelve  or  fifteen  buckets  of  water  from  the  ocean  in  suc- 
cession with  the  draw  bucket,  we  invert  them  over  our 
heads,  giving  ourselves  the  advantage  of  the  exercise,  as 
well  as  the  invigorating  shock  from  a  considerable  body 


BATHING.  357 

of  water ;  we  then  return  to  our  state-rooms,  and  rub 
ourselves  dry  with  coarse  towels  or  canvass,  which  com- 
pletes the  process,  and  prepares  us  for  most  delightful 
slumbers.  We  have  pursued  this  course  every  night, 
with  scarcely  any  intermission,  for  two  months  past,  and 
there  is  nothing  connected  with  sea  life,  I  shall  wish  for 
a  return  of  so  much,  as  the  refreshing  baths  taken  every 
night.  When  feeling  rather  exhausted  from  the  studies 
and  various  occupations  of  the  day,  a  pure  cool  saltwater 
bath  at  ten  or  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  has  a  most  aston- 
ishingly reviving  effect,  and  I  attribute  the  excellent 
health,  I  am  now  enjoying,  to  this  most  salutary  practice. 
When  aboard  the  North  America,  I  was  in  the  habit  of 
carrying  a  basin  of  salt  water  into  my  state-room  every 
night,  and  of  spunging  myself  thoroughly  before  retiring, 
a  practice  accompanied  with  admirable  effects.  But 
there  is  nothing  of  the  kind  equal  to  the  application  of 
successive  buckets  of  cool  water  to  the  person  ;  for  a 
shock  and  stimulus  are  given  to  the  system,  which  are 
extremely  invigorating. 

Friday,  January  22.  We  are  now  within  a  fortnight's 
sail  of  home,  and  as  I  soon  expect  to  bid  farewell  to  the 
ocean,  upon  whose  restless  billows  I  have  been  tossed 
incessantly  for  more  than  a  year,  and  formed  some 
acquaintance  with  life  on  shipboard,  it  would  not  seem 
an  inappropriate  finale,  to  make  a  connected  sketch  of 
the  habits  and  mode  of  life  of  the  sailor  at  home  in  his 
floating  habitation  ;  but  believing  that  they  have  been 
portrayed  in  what  precedes,  as  far  as  my  opportunities 
for  observation  would  admit,  this  attempt  would  be  but 
repetition,  and  all  that  remains  for  me,  is  to  complete 
the  brief  outline,  by  bringing  in  what  might  have  been 
with  more  propriety  perhaps,  introduced  into  a  former 
page, 


358  HOME. 

The  eating  utensils,  and  the  style  in  which  the  sailor 
partakes  of  his  " grub,"  are  as  barbarous  as  his  other 
accommodations.  A  tin  cup,  which  serves  for  coffee  cup, 
tea  cup  and  tumbler,  an  iron  spoon  and  a  tin  plate  form 
his  summary  of  eating  utensils.  An  addition  to  these  of 
a  knife  and  fork,  in  any  instance,  would  imply  luxurious 
notions  in  the  mind  of  the  owner.  The  sheath  knife, 
which  hangs  at  his  side,  is  his  inseparable  companion, 
and  is  devoted  to  a  great  variety  of  purposes.  It  is 
indispensible,  while  he  is  at  work  upon  the  tarred  and 
M  slushy"  rigging;  it  assists  him  in  his  tailoring  and  shoe- 
making — cuts  his  tobacco  and  carves  his  meat.  The 
style  in  which  his  meals  are  taken,  is  entirely  primitive. 
The  kidj  a  small  tub,  which  contains  the  dinner,  is  loca- 
ted in  the  centre  of  the  circle  seated  upon  deck,  and  each 
one  helps  himself  out  of  it,  without  any  scrupulous 
notions  about  introducing  his  own  knife  and  spoon  ; 
emphatically  his  own,  for  they  are  purchased  out  of  his 
own  scanty  wages,  or  he  goes  without.  The  fare  of  the 
common  sailor  would  be  repugnant  to  the  taste  of  any 
landsman,  were  he  to  be  confined  to  it  exclusively  for 
month  after  month,  as  the  sailor  is  obliged  to  be  during 
a  long  voyage.  In  the  morning,  a  piece  of  salt  beef  or 
pork  with  hard  bread  and  coffee,  is  served  out  to  him. 
The  term  coffee,  conveys  a  luxurious  idea,  which  van- 
ishes, however,  when  we  are  aware  that  it  is  not  unfre- 
quently  made  out  of  burnt  peas,  or  at  any  rate,  that  it  is 
of  the  most  inferior  quality.  Sometimes,  for  variety,  a 
preparation  of  hard  bread  and  beef  and  pork  is  served 
up,  which  with  some  slight  variation,  is  known  by  the 
elegant  denominations  of"  lobscouse"  and  "lobdominion." 
For  dinner,  he  receives  an  allowance  of  potatoes,  or  some 
other  vegetables — if  they  are  not  already  exhausted,  with 
his  meat ;  or  in  lieu  of  these,  duff,  rice  or  beans,  which 


THE     LAND.  359 

are  well  covered  with  molasses,  answering  to  the  acidu- 
lous preserves  that  accompany  our  viands.  For  supper, 
his  tin  cup  full  of  tea  sweetened  with  molasses,  and  a 
plenty  of  salt  beef  or  pork  and  hard  bread  constitute  his 
invariable  bill  of  fare.  The  tea  which  sailors  drink,  is 
not  always  the  growth  of  the  celestial  empire.  One 
variety  is  said  to  flourish  in  North  Carolina,  and  from 
the  huge  sticks  entangled  with  the  herb,  which  rise  upon 
the  surface  of  the  fluid  as  they  are  successively  disen- 
gaged, receives  the  appellation  of  "studding-sail  boom 
tea,"  a  very  expressive  soubriquet.  It  has  nearly  as 
delicate  a  flavor  as  might  be  expected  from  a  decoction 
of  mulien  stalks. 

Monday ',  February  1.  Cape  Hatteras,  opposite  which 
we  crossed  the  Gulf  Stream,  like  most  high  headlands, 
is  famous  for  sudden  gusts  of  wind,  called  by  seamen 
"  white  squalls,"  that  without  any  warning,  strike  a  ship 
in  all  their  fury,  and  the  first  intimation  the  navigator 
has  of  their  presence,  is  indicated  by  the  falling  of  the 
spars  over  the  side  of  the  vessel.  The  region  of  the 
ocean  lying  between  the  Bermuda  Islands  and  this  Cape, 
is  noted  for  its  squally  character,  particularly  the  vicinity 
of  these  islands,  which  was  fully  tested  while  I  was  in 
the  North  America.  Hence  this  admonitory  distich  is 
treasured  up  in  the  mind  of  the  mariner  as  he  navigates 
these  seas : 

"  If  Bermuda  let  you  pass, 
Then  look  out  for  Hatteras." 

Wednesday,  February  3.  At  daylight,  this  morning, 
the  low  outline  of  the  coast  of  the  United  States,  was 
seen  stretching  along  to  the  westward  of  us,  not  more 
than  ten  or  twelve  miles  off.  Though  the  patches  of 
snow,  that  were  seen  at  frequent  intervals  along  the  coast, 
indicated  the  season  of  the  year,  yet  the  general  aspect 


360  HOME, 


of  the  country  was  less  forbidding  than  I  had  anticipated. 
Then  too,  the  thought  that  I  should  soon  be  restored  to 
the  circle  of  those  I  hold  dear,  and  hear  from  them  the 
various  occurrences  that  had  taken  place  during  our 
Jong  separation — not  an  inkling  of  which  had  gladdened 
my  heart  for  a  year  and  a  half — was  so  transporting,  that 
even  the  desolate  shores  of  New  Jersey,  with  their  shorn 
and  melancholy  forests,  and  the  cold  atmosphere  of  the 
morning  were  far  more  delightful  to  me  than  the  exube- 
rant verdure  and  balmy  air  of  the  tropics,  from  which 
we  had  not  long  since  emerged.  But  a  period  of  a  year 
and  a  half  may  have  brought  many  sad  changes,  and 
while  I  looked  upon  my  native  land  growing  more  and 
more  distinct,  with  such  emotions  of  delight,  as  the 
returning  voyager  alone  experiences,  a  feeling  of  deep 
solicitude,  that  cast  a  shade  over  my  fairest  anticipations, 
could  not  be  repressed.  In  the  evening  we  came  to 
anchor  off  Sandy  Hook,  in  six  months  from  the  Sand- 
wich Islands. 

On  Friday  morning,  1  met  with  my  brother  in  New 
York ;  but  the  enquiries  that  on  ordinary  occasions 
would  have  been  made  with  eagerness,  were  repressed 
by  sad  forebodings,  until,  assured  by  his  manner,  I  ven- 
tured to  make  the  enquiry  "Are  all  well  at  home?"  and 
when  it  was  answered  in  the  affirmative,  the  solicitude 
that  brooded  over  me  like  an  incubus,  was  instantly 
suceeded  by  unspeakable  emotions  of  joy  and  gratitude. 

Courteous  Reader !  Thou  hast  kindly  accompanied 
me  in  my  wanderings,  for  forty  thousand  miles  over  the 
mighty  main.  Our  cruise  is  up,  and  as  I  am  taking  my 
parting  look  of  old  ocean,  if  I  have  been  favored  with 
thy  sympathies  and  kindness,  while  voyaging  with  me, 
believe  me  they  are  reciprocated,  and  permit  me  to 
express  the  language  of  my  heart — shipmate  farewell ! 


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